Auris Rear Brake Piston

[ziauris]

I've done the driver side (offside) rear pads and the brake caliper had to be turned anticlockwise. Don't get this at all. Was watching a audodoc video and that showed albeit a EU car and what would be the offside here was clockwise. Someone above reported both theirs as clockwise!!! 

1 hour ago, TonyHSD said:

I can confirm on hybrids both sides are clockwise but I believe it’s a totally different brake system and different callipers.

Hi Tony,

 

One of the main things about the !Removed! are their mantra to be uniform/standardisation to make things easy to assemble and also easy to repair, so i'm not sure what is going on with these calipers, some people have got both clockwise on the same car I have, mine are 1 clockwise and 1 anticlockwise. I could understand it if it were a renault/peugeot as their mantra is "if it fits slap it on", but this is not how toyota's are meant to be.

[TonyHSD]

14 minutes ago, ziauris said:

I've done the driver side (offside) rear pads and the brake caliper had to be turned anticlockwise. Don't get this at all. Was watching a audodoc video and that showed albeit a EU car and what would be the offside here was clockwise. Someone above reported both theirs as clockwise!!! 

Hi Tony,

 

One of the main things about the !Removed! are their mantra to be uniform/standardisation to make things easy to assemble and also easy to repair, so i'm not sure what is going on with these calipers, some people have got both clockwise on the same car I have, mine are 1 clockwise and 1 anticlockwise. I could understand it if it were a renault/peugeot as their mantra is "if it fits slap it on", but this is not how toyota's are meant to be.

I understand, I was surprised too when first changed the discs and pads, the motor factor guy had to exchange three times until he got me the correct ones for my car. 🤭

[ziauris]

21 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

I understand, I was surprised too when first changed the discs and pads, the motor factor guy had to exchange three times until he got me the correct ones for my car. 🤭

A good way to make sure you get the right pads and discs is to look on the mintex brakeboo, it'll tell you length, width and thickness of the pads/discs so you can make sure you got the right ones.

[roks]

On 9/24/2020 at 5:40 PM, Konrad C said:

due to the piston not properly aligned.

Just managed to service the rear brakes, both pistons were sitting on the little studs on the inner pads, instead of the studs being in the grooves. So called professional mechanics.....that's why I don't trust them, prefer to do it myself.

A bit of advise, if you remove the handbrake cable, make sure you put it back into the hook before you fit the caliper.....I found out the hard way.

[Konrad C]

14 hours ago, roks said:

Just managed to service the rear brakes, both pistons were sitting on the little studs on the inner pads, instead of the studs being in the grooves. So called professional mechanics.....that's why I don't trust them, prefer to do it myself.

A bit of advise, if you remove the handbrake cable, make sure you put it back into the hook before you fit the caliper.....I found out the hard way.

Roks, did the inner brake pads wear unevenly or oddly, whilst the outer pads have plenty of material? I saw this on my car and a Vauxhall Corsa when I did those rear brakes. I did a brake inspection recently, and all four wheels were good. I have inspection mirrors, so don't need to the wheels.
Being hands on is good. 👍🏾  

What is your view on E10 fuel? Wait a few tank full before answering, because there will still be E5 in your tank for a while!

[roks]

6 hours ago, Konrad C said:

did the inner brake pads wear unevenly or oddly

Oddly enough, they were even on both sides, in/out, plenty of meat on it, probably done about 5k on them. One side, its had the rubber backing peeled of and the stud made a dent mark on the piston face, not too bad but visible.

 

6 hours ago, Konrad C said:

What is your view on E10 fuel?

I only fill up at Shell, on the last fill end of august, I saw E10 on the pump, I enquired with the guy, I thought E10 was from September, he said they had for almost a year. It very clearly says E10 on the nozzle, never noticed it before, so he could be telling me fibs?

Not sure what to think of it, done a round trip London to Cardiff, think 300miles? still got 1/4 left even with some "not so eco speeds" 😉

[TonyHSD]

1 hour ago, roks said:

Oddly enough, they were even on both sides, in/out, plenty of meat on it, probably done about 5k on them. One side, its had the rubber backing peeled of and the stud made a dent mark on the piston face, not too bad but visible.

 

I only fill up at Shell, on the last fill end of august, I saw E10 on the pump, I enquired with the guy, I thought E10 was from September, he said they had for almost a year. It very clearly says E10 on the nozzle, never noticed it before, so he could be telling me fibs?

Not sure what to think of it, done a round trip London to Cardiff, think 300miles? still got 1/4 left even with some "not so eco speeds" 😉

For the brake pads they usually wear uneven when one of the sliding pins get stuck, not sure it will happen the same if you are not align the piston correctly. 
 

The new 95 E10 is lower quality than 95 E5 previously, I had around 500-600 miles done with it and the car doesn’t like it, acceleration is sluggish, requires a lot more push to get it going and engine its noisier than before with 99 E5 or 95 E5. I am sure it’s not me because I know my car well plus I spent quite a bit of time driving every day, always noticed if the fuel is good or bad, maybe in a higher powered cars the difference will be less significant but in my underpowered Auris hybrid I can feel it easily, it’s like driving against strong winds🙅🏻‍♂️🚙🤭

[roks]

See the pic, red circle is where is the stud was resting, left a gap hence the dirt and grease on the face of the piston, all cleaned up now.

[Konrad C]

18 hours ago, roks said:

See the pic, red circle is where is the stud was resting, left a gap hence the dirt and grease on the face of the piston, all cleaned up now.

You are lucky there had been know other damage or the inner pad had worn in a wedge. I think it is worse on the Avensis, because of the EPB. 

[Konrad C]

On 9/6/2021 at 3:40 PM, TonyHSD said:

For the brake pads they usually wear uneven when one of the sliding pins get stuck, not sure it will happen the same if you are not align the piston correctly. 
 

The new 95 E10 is lower quality than 95 E5 previously, I had around 500-600 miles done with it and the car doesn’t like it, acceleration is sluggish, requires a lot more push to get it going and engine its noisier than before with 99 E5 or 95 E5. I am sure it’s not me because I know my car well plus I spent quite a bit of time driving every day, always noticed if the fuel is good or bad, maybe in a higher powered cars the difference will be less significant but in my underpowered Auris hybrid I can feel it easily, it’s like driving against strong winds🙅🏻‍♂️🚙🤭

On the Avensis T27 and from my experience, the EPB makes it critical that the piston cut outs are horizontal, to aid fitting the caliper over the protruding pin on the back of the inner brake pad. This can also affect the EPB operation and cause the inner pads to wear at an angle faster than the outer pad. Obviously the Auris having a conventional handbrake is not as affected, though I did repair a Vauxhall Corsa VXR which has a normal handbrake, with the same problem my Avensis suffered from.
I fuelled from Morrison's well over a month ago, and the pumps already had E10 on them. I enquired at the time, and it was done in preparation. The fuel was still E5. Wait for a while because the petrol pump tanks will still have remnants of E5 diluting the new E10. By October, both the car and fuel station should be E10. Then we can say how the car is performing. With the hybrid engine the difference could more telling or less. 

[Beryy2]

1 hour ago, Konrad C said:

On the Avensis T27 and from my experience, the EPB makes it critical that the piston cut outs are horizontal, to aid fitting the caliper over the protruding pin on the back of the inner brake pad. This can also affect the EPB operation and cause the inner pads to wear at an angle faster than the outer pad. Obviously the Auris having a conventional handbrake is not as affected, though I did repair a Vauxhall Corsa VXR which has a normal handbrake, with the same problem my Avensis suffered from.
I fuelled from Morrison's well over a month ago, and the pumps already had E10 on them. I enquired at the time, and it was done in preparation. The fuel was still E5. Wait for a while because the petrol pump tanks will still have remnants of E5 diluting the new E10. By October, both the car and fuel station should be E10. Then we can say how the car is performing. With the hybrid engine the difference tracking software could more telling or less. 

Yes you are right

[AisinW]

It is normal if the inner pads worn slightly more than outer in float calipers, as long as it is not wedged. Check the slider pins and how the pads move on the bracket. Sometimes the bracket is corroded, and the brake hardware cannot accomodate the pads sliding smoothly.  I always reuse the original hardware and backplate because often aftermarket pads come with flimsy hardware. I like Zimmermann disc with Zn coated and has no rust on the edges and fins. For pads, I prefer the same supplier of the original pads. It could be Advics/Aisin, Bosch, or Akebono.  

I hate E10, ethanol was  introduced during high fuel price in 2008 with oil more than $100 per barrel. It reduce CO but increase NOx, aldehyde, etc. It kills catalytic converter faster too. I may use E10 once the price difference is 10% or more.  

[Shem uk]

Had only issues with the rear right caliper both on my partners Toyota auris 2012 and my own toyota auris 2014 also rear right caliper malfunction. Quick fix

get the spare O rings from eBay (replacement piston not required).

Disassemble the caliper by pushing it out with the break pedal.

Once out, take it all apar, spray every part inside and out over with solvent for breaks and calipers  

put it back together, use hydraulic grease ( where the pison sits) the new O ring (O ring sits on the inside of the caliper can be spotted once piston is taken out) and new boot/seal for the piston  (stretch it over the the rear of the piston)

[AisinW]

I just clean the rear brake on my Auris TS Hybrid. It is very easy, the left caliper winding  is opposite of the right side. 

The brake dust cause the brake hardware/clips jam the pads. The paint cost on the clips are cracked and peeled off. I just strip them off, and now it slides freely. It has been 1y/10k miles, no brake dragging anymore. I also filled the boots with silicon grease to keep it smooth.. 

[ziauris]

On 9/7/2021 at 3:43 PM, Konrad C said:

You are lucky there had been know other damage or the inner pad had worn in a wedge. I think it is worse on the Avensis, because of the EPB. 

 

 

I took my rear drivers side brake apart again which was due to the following reasons:

1) I was getting a pulsing sensation in the brake pedal. See my other thread about it below. I diagnosed that the pulsing was coming from the back wheels as I drove slowly and pulled up the handbrake where the same sensation could be felt.  I then dismantled the drivers side  (OSR) brake and spun the DISC whilst hold the pads against the disc surface. I detected that There is a difference in DISC thickness at ONE point as the pads got pushed out and that is causing the pulsing. It seems the disk is heavily lipped at one point (at other points the lip has rusted away) compared to other parts of the DISC and at this point the pads are pushed outwards whilst I spun the disc! I tried to removed the excessive lip at this point with gentle wooden hammering but it was not crumbling away like on the rest of the disc. This disk is around 15 years old. The only solution appears to be  replacing the discs unless I can get rid of the lip in that one spot. If anyone has any other ideas please let me know.

2) The drivers side (OSR) brake dust shield somehow became trapped in the top of the caliper and was making the chaffing sound as it was rubbing against the disc, furthermore it has rusted quite badly and half of the dust shield (lower half) is missing now. I think hitting the kerb broke this bit of the dust shield and the rest is crumbling. I didn't know whether to leave the rest of it on or to rip it all off? Opinions?

3) The brake pads were pretty jammed up in the shims and I had to hammer them out, There is plenty of meat left on them so I re-installed them. BUT I then had a big battle getting them in even with copper greasing the shims, wire brushing the shim and rust off the pads ends. I only got the pads in by FILING the pad ends AGAIN to make them smaller and I had already done this the last time I installed them. When I look at Youtobe videos of people installing new pads they seem to slide in pretty smoothly even without copper grease BUT these pads are very tight! Do other people find the same or are these pads oversized???

4) Sliding pins were jammed, especially the lower one. Lubed them with molly grease, lets see how long it lasts.

5) On my test drive I noticed the other rear alloy (passenger side/NSR) heating up. Looks like that brake is sticking TOO so I will have to do that side also. :-( 

6) Konrad - It didn't look like my caliper piston holes were aligned with the stud on the back of the brake pad when I took off the caliper today. I am around 90% sure that when I installed it 4 years ago it WAS aligned with the stud of the back of the brake pad. I find it confusing in that if the caliper piston SPINS/WINDS out as the brake pad wears down then how would the piston HOLE stay aligned to the STUD????? Surely the caliper piston spins/winds out and sometimes the stud will be in the hole and at other times not? No? Anyway, I did wind the caliper piston all the way back again and checked that it was aligned to the stud even though I was using old pads so will see what happens next time I open these brakes as I will probably have to replace the discs at some point in the near future.  

 

 

 

[ziauris]

On 9/6/2021 at 2:45 PM, roks said:

Oddly enough, they were even on both sides, in/out, plenty of meat on it, probably done about 5k on them. One side, its had the rubber backing peeled of and the stud made a dent mark on the piston face, not too bad but visible.

 

I only fill up at Shell, on the last fill end of august, I saw E10 on the pump, I enquired with the guy, I thought E10 was from September, he said they had for almost a year. It very clearly says E10 on the nozzle, never noticed it before, so he could be telling me fibs?

Not sure what to think of it, done a round trip London to Cardiff, think 300miles? still got 1/4 left even with some "not so eco speeds" 😉

 

On 10/1/2022 at 9:11 PM, Shem uk said:

Had only issues with the rear right caliper both on my partners Toyota auris 2012 and my own toyota auris 2014 also rear right caliper malfunction. Quick fix

get the spare O rings from ebay (replacement piston not required).

Disassemble the caliper by pushing it out with the break pedal.

Once out, take it all apar, spray every part inside and out over with solvent for breaks and calipers  

put it back together, use hydraulic grease ( where the pison sits) the new O ring (O ring sits on the inside of the caliper can be spotted once piston is taken out) and new boot/seal for the piston  (stretch it over the the rear of the piston)

 

On 9/18/2023 at 10:14 PM, AisinW said:

I just clean the rear brake on my Auris TS Hybrid. It is very easy, the left caliper winding  is opposite of the right side. 

The brake dust cause the brake hardware/clips jam the pads. The paint cost on the clips are cracked and peeled off. I just strip them off, and now it slides freely. It has been 1y/10k miles, no brake dragging anymore. I also filled the boots with silicon grease to keep it smooth.. 

 

On 9/6/2021 at 3:40 PM, TonyHSD said:

For the brake pads they usually wear uneven when one of the sliding pins get stuck, not sure it will happen the same if you are not align the piston correctly. 
 

The new 95 E10 is lower quality than 95 E5 previously, I had around 500-600 miles done with it and the car doesn’t like it, acceleration is sluggish, requires a lot more push to get it going and engine its noisier than before with 99 E5 or 95 E5. I am sure it’s not me because I know my car well plus I spent quite a bit of time driving every day, always noticed if the fuel is good or bad, maybe in a higher powered cars the difference will be less significant but in my underpowered Auris hybrid I can feel it easily, it’s like driving against strong winds🙅🏻‍♂️🚙🤭

See my post above. I would appreciate your inputs....

[roks]

On 8/12/2024 at 12:23 AM, ziauris said:

BUT these pads are very tight!

Did you remove/clean the rust off of the grooves where the shims seat on? If not then that could the issues, the built up rust pushing the shims in. I gently file it down if the wire brush doesnt take it off.

Always do the brakes in pairs.