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Knock/clunk Noise Rear


peopleperson
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Hello,

I have a Avensis 1999 with 150k miles on the clock, at low speeds when driving over speed humps and potholes I hear a knock/clunk noise from the rear of the car can't tell if it's left or right... but it’s always from rear.

Could it be:

- Rear bushes

- Shocks

- Suspension Arm/Rod

If I can get it up on a car lift ramp what should I be looking for...

Thank you in advance,

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Could also be the anti roll bar ball joints being worn.

If so, the sound should only be heard when depressing only left or right side of the rear,

and not heard (or heard less) when depressing the entire rear end.

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Hello,

I have a Avensis 1999 with 150k miles on the clock, at low speeds when driving over speed humps and potholes I hear a knock/clunk noise from the rear of the car can't tell if it's left or right... but it’s always from rear.

Could it be:

- Rear bushes

- Shocks

- Suspension Arm/Rod

If I can get it up on a car lift ramp what should I be looking for...

Thank you in advance,

Hi There I had the same noise it turned out to be anti roll bar bushes £90.00 to get it fixed at local garage.

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When you car is parked, you can press the car down and release it. Keep repeating it to gain more inertia.

If it reproduces the sound, it could be your shock absorber.

To confirm it, get it on car lift ramp and inspect thoroughly.

Any oil/ leakage from shock will confirm the problems with shocks.

If not then check the anti-roll bars, bushes. (anti-roll bar sounds like heavy metal grinding on heavy metal, whereas faulty shock absorber sounds heavy but not metal on metal sort of noise.)

Let us know how you get on.

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Thank you, I had it up on the ramp today, found 3 types of joints at the rear. mechanic was unable to get the nuts off for the bush bar that sits horizontal to the along side the car, he's replaced the drop bar links the sit vertical on both rear sides.

just have to see how it rolls...

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on the older avensis a bar which sits horizontal is a dealer only part...

it has bushes inside which can replicate this problem

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  • 2 weeks later...

Any progress made with this?

I have pretty much the exact same problem. It only clunks when I'm driving over something uneven. If both wheels hit it at the same time there is no sound. Also I hear the sound when rocking the car from side to side, but not when jumping on the towbar.

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This noise drove me insane. I replaced the drop links and it made no difference. A visual inspection of the anti roll bar bushes looked like they were not worn but I decided to change them as there was little else it could be. It turns out the anti roll bar bush has a plastic kind of spacer thing under it and even with a tiny bit of wear in the bush this plastic spacer knocks against the body of the car. On other makes of cars you would not get this as general the bush is just rubber.

The rear subframe has to be dropped a bit to replace the bush to gain access.

Hope this helps.

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that sounds exactly like it can be the problem, the clunking noise doesn't sound like a metal vs metal sound so the plastic might explain it.

really appreciated, thanks!

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Don't you just love it when someone asks for help, gets it,

and not even bothers to give feedback on the outcome...

/Edit

I must have had a rough day when making the original post.

When reading it today, it looks very rude.

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got around to getting the bushings changed, a local garage agreed to do it for like 100£ which is pretty cheap with the price of labor here in Norway. They complained that it was a little more work than they thought but they got it done. The result was perfect, that incredibly annoying knocking sound for every little bump is completely gone and I couldn't be happier.

Just wanted to thank you all for your help, this could have been a lot more expensive if I hadn't gotten it right on the first try!

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  • 1 year later...

Does anyone know, what is iovolved in dropping the rear subframe?

Are we talking, unbolting many more things, to lower it down?

Do you have to take the drop links off the end of the ARB to change the ARB to body bushes? Or do they split and go on in situ?

I've dropped subframes on mini's befaore, and that usually involved all the bolts sheering off and ages gettign it all back together, mostly removing sheared bolts. Are we talkign a similar procedure?

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Also,

If I remove the two links, maybe just at one end and swing them out the way and drive for a few hundred yards, I should be able to tell if the noise I have is from the anti roll bar?

I'm asmuing it might handle crap, but the car suspension won't collapse will it?

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  • 5 years later...
On 3/17/2011 at 1:09 PM, dibber said:

This noise drove me insane. I replaced the drop links and it made no difference. A visual inspection of the anti roll bar bushes looked like they were not worn but I decided to change them as there was little else it could be. It turns out the anti roll bar bush has a plastic kind of spacer thing under it and even with a tiny bit of wear in the bush this plastic spacer knocks against the body of the car. On other makes of cars you would not get this as general the bush is just rubber.

The rear subframe has to be dropped a bit to replace the bush to gain access.

Hope this helps.

Hi, having the same problem right now. Could you elaborate on rear sub-frame has to be 'dropped a bit'?  I assume its the bushings above the rear diff that need replacing? 

Thanks

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20 hours ago, Gareth B Goode said:

Hi, having the same problem right now. Could you elaborate on rear sub-frame has to be 'dropped a bit'?  I assume its the bushings above the rear diff that need replacing? 

Thanks

Considering how old this topic is and last post is over 5 years ago, I doubt you will get an answer. Most of the posters have not visit over 5 years. 
Going back to 2003 when I first owned my Mk1 Avensis, it had a knocking sound from the rear of my car. In my case the rubber stops were positioned in such a way, to allow some lateral movement. Theses stops allowed too much movement and part of the anti roll bar near the drop link touched the body. My solution was too peel the rubber stops off the anti roll bar and reposition them to limit the lateral movement so that the ends of the anti roll bar did not foul the under body. The rubber was fixed in position using jubilee clips. This was back in 2003 and the noise never returned. Nothing else was needed. I had a minor issue with a MOT tester, because there was still a mark where the anti roll bar had fouled body. This after I had discovered the cause and had simply moved the anti roll bar away weeks earlier. A second mechanic told him 'If the bar is not touching the body, then it is okay'! I got the pass. 
Since it was years ago and I no longer own the car, I cannot supply pictures. My other post I could find -  

As the previous poster says, it depends who tested it.

The last time I used a council test station 2003, the tester failed it on something which actual was a pass!!!

Basically the anti-roll bar had moved to one side and knocked the subframe, leaving a mark. The bar was moved clear a long time before the test.

The tester was in his late fifties/early sixties.

He stated the anti roll bar had touch the body because of the marks, but it was not touching the body at the time of the test. he said that the anti-roll bar was bent!!

I was not happy with his excuse so got a few opinions. A neighbour who is a mechanic and worked for the AA at the time, said there is know problem with the bar. he said the bar is a spring. Toyota said the same thing.

I fixed the problem by moving the stops to limit the sideways movement of the anti-roll bar.

My brother took the car back to the council test centre, with a written statement explaining what the real problem was plus independent opinions.

He still was not happy but another tester was there and stated 'if the anti-roll bar is not touching any part of the body during the test then it a pass'!

I got the MOT, though from what I hear begrudgingly. Never went back there again plus my brother said the old guy was being awkward to others. (My brother works for the council).

I recently MOT'd the car at an independent garage, and it passed easily.

This is a 13 year old Avensis with 110k miles.

I have all the MOT certificates and apart form the first MOT have all the emission printouts.

The car is as clean now as it was earlier!

That is my story.

p.s. If you want to see my emission readouts I will post.

 

To test look at the anti roll bar where it bends back pass the subframe and connects to the drop links. Pull and push the anti roll sideways and check how close it is to the body. If you can look up see if may hit the body. There will be marks on the body and anti roll bar, where there have been contact. That may be the clue for the knocking. 

Now due to the age the stops which glued to the anti roll bar, there is a possibility they have fallen off or perished. The stops are close to the bushes under the car.

Any then you have the multi links and the struts to look at too.  

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  • 8 months later...

resurrection of an old thread.

fwiw.on an old model of car now here is my latest

changed my right side rear control arm for a breaker part to get it through its mot around 5 months ago

toyota arm is near £500 dealer part only and probably comes all bushed up but i couldnt stomach that kinda price.

Anyway the bush and bolt that pivot into subframe ned cut out - this is replaced by a FEBEST TAB-203 bush

in the last week an anoying knock appeared from under rear right passenger seat.

After investigation this is found to be the front bushing now knocking (original to breaker part) which will be found with a forward and backward motion of the wheel .The part number for this is a FEBEST TAB-204

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