T180 1200Rpm Idle On Cold Start

[180black]

Hi, Looking for some feeback / help.

I have a T180 Avensis and on start up it idles at 1200RPM. The idle doesn't drop until almost full running temperature, whereby it sits around 800RPM. It appears to be like an auto choke on a petrol car. All other diesels I have had just start and idle at normal speed.

Is this normal for a T180? If not - any suggestions.

Thanks.

Steve

[Sam29]

Same happens on my diesel car. Its normal with Avensis. High RPM stays there unless you reach normal tempt.

The other exclusion is that if you turn off the climate control then it goes to 800RPM midway b/w cold and normal running temperature.

Hope it helps.

[180black]

Same happens on my diesel car. Its normal with Avensis. High RPM stays there unless you reach normal tempt.

The other exclusion is that if you turn off the climate control then it goes to 800RPM midway b/w cold and normal running temperature.

Hope it helps.

Thanks Sam

[tubaman]

Strangely enough, if you turn your temperature control to 16 degrees, idling revs drop (depending on coolant temperature etc) - temperature control is a key

[lc man]

Hi, Looking for some feeback / help.

I have a T180 Avensis and on start up it idles at 1200RPM. The idle doesn't drop until almost full running temperature, whereby it sits around 800RPM. It appears to be like an auto choke on a petrol car. All other diesels I have had just start and idle at normal speed.

Is this normal for a T180? If not - any suggestions.

Thanks.

Steve

This is normal on the diesel avensis, the idea is to get the engine up to normal operating temp as fast as possible, in order for it to operate at its most efficient,it can be annoying but its normal.

[180black]

Thanks for all the feedback. Top forum!!!

[180black]

Just to let you all know, I tried starting the car with the heating control set to low and there you have it - 800RPM. It also saved me App. 3 mpg - Bargain :D

[tubaman]

Glad it worked for you, if outside temp is particularly cold it will still idle at 1200rpm for a while even if you have the heater controls at 16 degrees or lowewr.

[Avensis_dad]

Top tip re temp setting I'll give it a try, anything to save some fuel.. Did query with Mr T idle levels and apparantly normal for diesels to run high at starting.

[Steve84]

Mine for the last 3 years or so had idle'd at around 1200 rpm when cold or the heater was up high. Other day i noticed that when the car was up to working temp its idle speed was 1000-1100 rpm. No air con or climate activated. Give the car a rev and the rev's dropped to 800 then slowly reached 1000-1100 rpm. When the car is cold it runs at 800 rpm. I thought it was a temp sensor gone faulty. 3 hours at toyota dealership and tuns out its either a d-cat problem, the car is trying to regenerate all the time. ECU problem. The worst case is a new engine. They said it needed 2 litres of oil it was on the max level last week i check oil once a week. I'm waiting for a call tomorrow to see the case of action. I'm sure the car will get sorted but a new engine at 50k. I've had 3 toyotas a corolla 1.4 needed new engine due to oil consumption. 2004 avensis new engine at 40k oil consumption. Now a 2006 avensis needs a new engine. My dad had a 2001 avensis needed a new engine at 40k. Back so subject tho a healthy t180 when cold will run at 1200 rpm then drop down to 800rpm once up to working temp.

[Bigspeakerman]

Dear Steve,

I have just read your post on toyota owners about the idle speed being 800 cold and 1000-1100rpm warm. I have that problem and was looking for solutions. My local independent garage couldn't find the problem and advised seeing Toyota. Toyota had it last week for an afternoon, overnight, then checked cold, but couldn't find anything. I took it away with the idea of trading it in for something more economical, as mine is doing about 34mpg, though I only travel 3 miles each way to work and have covered 10K in 2 1/2 yrs.

My car is 56 plate T180 tourer with under 41K on the clock, I've had it for over 2 1/2 yrs and in that time it has had the egr and cat replaced under warranty, for which Toyota had it for four days. I have booked it back in tonight for a coolant temp sensor and a check on my ABS sensor, but I'm guessing that I am throwing away my money.

Do you have any more knowledge gained since your post in April? I'd be very grateful for any shared information.

Note that the car had the coolant temperature sensor replaced and the problem is no longer evident! I had to ask for this part to be changed, but I suspect other work was carried out in parallel that may have been the real fix. All is well again, but I am surprised that no-one is interested in this post, is it too old? should I have posted a fresh thread?

Kind Regards,

Mike Downes

[caveman_si]

Mike if you are only doing 3 miles each way in your T180 you are killing it, and thats possibly a massive contribution to why youve had the egr and the cat replaced. Also the short journeys in the T180 estate like you mention getting 34mpg is pretty spot on if its town driving? You need to longer journeys in this car to keep the engine in good shape, short journeys just wont get it hot it enough to work properly or efficently.

But back to the orignal issues you mention: When cold should idle circa 1100rpm ish does depend if youve got heating on on and how cold it is. ONce warm should drop to 800ish again depending on how cold and if you have the ac/heating on. I know when hot and with the ac on my car idles about 800 but will go up to about 900rpm if i sit in traffic for a bit, but drops if theres a good stiff breeze.

[Bigspeakerman]

Mike if you are only doing 3 miles each way in your T180 you are killing it, and thats possibly a massive contribution to why youve had the egr and the cat replaced. Also the short journeys in the T180 estate like you mention getting 34mpg is pretty spot on if its town driving? You need to longer journeys in this car to keep the engine in good shape, short journeys just wont get it hot it enough to work properly or efficently.

But back to the orignal issues you mention: When cold should idle circa 1100rpm ish does depend if youve got heating on on and how cold it is. ONce warm should drop to 800ish again depending on how cold and if you have the ac/heating on. I know when hot and with the ac on my car idles about 800 but will go up to about 900rpm if i sit in traffic for a bit, but drops if theres a good stiff breeze.

[Bigspeakerman]

Thanks for taking the time to reply caveman. I have my wife giving it a run twice a week and me giving it everything in 3rd down the motorway (the car that is) just for fun at the weekend. This is a waste of time and fuel to try to keep my car from clogging up, but I like the car and can't see another that will fit the function of being a bit of a toy, reasonably economical and a family load carrier, that is within my budget as well. I am looking at 2.0 turbo petrol cars like octavia vrs or audi a4, but for a mint 2 year old car with low mileage, I don't have the money and would they be any more reliable? Back to my problem, I know about normal fluctuations due to outside temperature and electrical load and this recently fixed issue was not normal. It was a low idle when cold c.800rpm and a consistently high idle c.1000rpm when warm (***** about tit as they say), and this didn't vary under electrical load at all. When moving, with clutch dipped the revs were c.850rpm until the car came to a standstill, when it slowly rose to 1000rpm. If at a standstill, you revved the engine just up a few hundred, then released the throttle, the revs went down to 800rpm and within a second slowly rose to 1000rpm. No faults showed up in the diagnostic tests when warm or cold apparently, but I don't trust the dealers, they know this engine has issues and as mine is out of warranty I believe they are reluctant to acknowledge any more. They first did, however, state that they could have a word with Toyota if the piezo injectors (c.£4000 fix for me they said) were found to be faulty, but they weren't allegedly.

Maybe my experience and supposed solution may help others, thanks for reading anyway.

[Mistermena]

Thanks for taking the time to reply caveman. I have my wife giving it a run twice a week and me giving it everything in 3rd down the motorway (the car that is) just for fun at the weekend. This is a waste of time and fuel to try to keep my car from clogging up, but I like the car and can't see another that will fit the function of being a bit of a toy, reasonably economical and a family load carrier, that is within my budget as well. I am looking at 2.0 turbo petrol cars like octavia vrs or audi a4, but for a mint 2 year old car with low mileage, I don't have the money and would they be any more reliable? Back to my problem, I know about normal fluctuations due to outside temperature and electrical load and this recently fixed issue was not normal. It was a low idle when cold c.800rpm and a consistently high idle c.1000rpm when warm (***** about tit as they say), and this didn't vary under electrical load at all. When moving, with clutch dipped the revs were c.850rpm until the car came to a standstill, when it slowly rose to 1000rpm. If at a standstill, you revved the engine just up a few hundred, then released the throttle, the revs went down to 800rpm and within a second slowly rose to 1000rpm. No faults showed up in the diagnostic tests when warm or cold apparently, but I don't trust the dealers, they know this engine has issues and as mine is out of warranty I believe they are reluctant to acknowledge any more. They first did, however, state that they could have a word with Toyota if the piezo injectors (c.£4000 fix for me they said) were found to be faulty, but they weren't allegedly.

Maybe my experience and supposed solution may help others, thanks for reading anyway.

Whats the milage on the car again?

[Bigspeakerman]

I could do with an e-mail alert when someone replies, so sorry for delay. My car has covered just less than 41k miles and is in great running order. I have it serviced every 6 months which is every 2500 miles approx and I use mainly Shell v-power diesel and have done so since I bought it 2 1/2 years ago. Since the egr and cat were replaced and the induction system de-coked 2 years ago, I've had only one issue, which is the idle speed problem described in the thread. I reckon when I bought the car at 2 years old with 29k miles from a car supermarket, the car hadn't previously been as well looked after as it is now. Is there a reason for asking about mileage?

[Bigspeakerman]

I could do with an e-mail alert when someone replies, so sorry for delay. My car has covered just less than 41k miles and is in great running order. I have it serviced every 6 months which is every 2500 miles approx and I use mainly Shell v-power diesel and have done so since I bought it 2 1/2 years ago. Since the egr and cat were replaced and the induction system de-coked 2 years ago, I've had only one issue, which is the idle speed problem described in the thread. I reckon when I bought the car at 2 years old with 29k miles from a car supermarket, the car hadn't previously been as well looked after as it is now. Is there a reason for asking about mileage?

[Mistermena]

I could do with an e-mail alert when someone replies, so sorry for delay. My car has covered just less than 41k miles and is in great running order. I have it serviced every 6 months which is every 2500 miles approx and I use mainly shell v-power diesel and have done so since I bought it 2 1/2 years ago. Since the egr and cat were replaced and the induction system de-coked 2 years ago, I've had only one issue, which is the idle speed problem described in the thread. I reckon when I bought the car at 2 years old with 29k miles from a car supermarket, the car hadn't previously been as well looked after as it is now. Is there a reason for asking about mileage?

At the top of the page you can subscribe to the posts. This can also be done (If I remember correctly) from your profile page where you can have it automatically ever time you post on a subject. Did you know that the warranty on the car (For certain issues) is 7 years or 112k?

[Bigspeakerman]

Thanks for the warranty info mistermena. I wonder if the injectors are covered on 7 years 112k or the dcat components? I am currently making enquiries to change my car to skoda octavia 1.8T or 2.0T petrol, but only because I am worried about expensive repair bills. If I found that the most likely parts to fail are covered under warranty I'll keep it for a while longer. Maybe Toyota will help or do you know where best to obtain this information?

[Mistermena]

Thanks for the warranty info mistermena. I wonder if the injectors are covered on 7 years 112k or the dcat components? I am currently making enquiries to change my car to skoda octavia 1.8T or 2.0T petrol, but only because I am worried about expensive repair bills. If I found that the most likely parts to fail are covered under warranty I'll keep it for a while longer. Maybe Toyota will help or do you know where best to obtain this information?

You're welcome mate...

On a rebuild you'll get a new 5th injector plus a new D-CAT along with a host of other replaced items. Octavia is a very nice car now. Especially the 2.0 derv VRS