Rubber Bump Stop

March 22, 2011

I have a 'separated' rubber bump stop in the o/s rear coil spring, it's not missing, but I wanted to know if it can be reattached - I've got nothing in the Haynes, and all I can find is how to refit a coil spring. How important is the bump stop in normal driving? Any advice appreciated!

March 22, 2011

I have a 'separated' rubber bump stop in the o/s rear coil spring, it's not missing, but I wanted to know if it can be reattached - I've got nothing in the Haynes, and all I can find is how to refit a coil spring. How important is the bump stop in normal driving? Any advice appreciated!

It's there for precisely what it is - to stop bumps should the suspension bottom out. Could you not fix it back with silicone mastic a la Bothy's fix for worn rear diff mount rubbers :unsure:

March 22, 2011

Unless you frequently do wheelies at the lights then I doubt you'll need the bump stop...probably just used if you have 4 passengers; or a heavy load; or are towing a Road Roller on a trailer.

A quick fix is to insert the caravan spring assisters which will stiffen the rear suspension a little under load or towing, and stop it from bottoming out. The silicon fix will depend on how clean you can get the 2 faces.

March 22, 2011

That's what I wanted to hear! I only normally have 2 up in the car - no friends to speak of - so there isn't much load on the rear. I'll have a go at the silicone trick, the Dremel might get some use after all. She just had new brake pipes fitted to get her through MOT and they missed this........doh! Only got 58k on the clock, so it's not through wear, probably salt intake. Thanks a lot for the advice guys!

peter

March 22, 2011

That's what I wanted to hear! I only normally have 2 up in the car - no friends to speak of - so there isn't much load on the rear. I'll have a go at the silicone trick, the Dremel might get some use after all. She just had new brake pipes fitted to get her through MOT and they missed this........doh! Only got 58k on the clock, so it's not through wear, probably salt intake. Thanks a lot for the advice guys!
peter

Hi Peter,

silicone is not bad as an adhesive if you get the high modulus stuff that is used for fixing some building components and making aquariums. If you can get the dremel in and get a good surface, use one of the rubber based adhesives like Evo-Stik. It is probably regarded as a bit old fashioned these days but it is pretty good for this type of problem where you have dis-similar materials. A good clean up followed by a reasonable coat of the stuff on both surfaces which you leave till it is touch dry before clamping or wedging it in position will work. Get the clamping load as even as possible ( not off-centre ) and leave it in place overnight. Wish I had a quid for every LandRover one that I've repaired like this.

March 22, 2011

Did it with E6000 industrial strength (I make jewellery), and it's looking like it'll hold. Probably shouldn't have had the CD on all day.............battery's on charge now! :rolleyes:

March 22, 2011

Did it with E6000 industrial strength (I make jewellery), and it's looking like it'll hold. Probably shouldn't have had the CD on all day.............battery's on charge now!

E6000 is, I think, a one part epoxy so it should be excellent in the harsh conditions found around a vehicle chassis. Is it VERY expensive? If you have a source for industrial adhesives, urethane based products are excellent I don't know how to get hold of those in economical quantities. They are really powerful and are used to stick aeroplanes together. I'd guess that they are even more expensive than Davrav's paint :wacko: .