Anything To Watch For

[ministeve]

Hi all great forum lots of info which is what i am after i am new to toyota ownership and would like to know if there is anything i should be looking out for with my new car it is an october 07 D4D TR estate in a matalic sort of gunmetal colour with 44000 on the clock.

thanks for any help

steve

[Heidfirst]

which engine?

Headlights are pretty poor but better bulbs will help - they are a pain to get at though.

[ministeve]

i do have a set of hid lights with h7 bulbs do you know if they will fit or are they h1,h4

thanks steve

[Mistermena]

Hiya mate and welcome

Same color as mine by the sounds of it!

I've got a T-180 estate. The things to look out for on the 2.2 engines(Not sure what yours is?) are that the head gaskets can go and this means a new short engine. Take a look at the plastic engine cover and see if there is any white marks on it or the coolant expansion tank. If you notice the coolant level dropping or the heater inside the car dosn't warm the cabin, this is also a tell tale sign that maybe there is a problem. This is covered under Toyota's 112K or 6 year extended wattanty. Well done Toyota for putting this in place

The black paint work at the top of the doors suffer from rust. This is also covered under warranty. Use a good engine oil like Mobil 1ESP(5W-30 C2 spec) and I'd change the gear box oil to something like Silkolene Pro SRG (Straight 75W) as theses boxes tend to crunch into 2nd gear a little when cold (Triple syncro) and its hard to select 1st gear on very cold winter mornings.

The EGR valve will need cleaning every now and again. Its a simple job and there are lots of posts on here on how to do that. Running the car on Shell V-Power diesel will help alot (Avoid Super Market stuff) and using a fuel additive like BG244(Every 10k or so) will help with cleaning the EGR and injectors plus quiet running of the engine. I also use Millers fuel additive on every fill up to.

I've use a K&N air filter and this gives me about another 2mpg on a run and the engine pulls alot better as these filter allow more air to be sucked into the Turbo. If you want more BHP try using a TUNIT box which give around 30+BHP and around the 7-10mpg more. They normally cost £485 but you can get one used off eBay for less than £200.

The brakes (As you may have noticed) are not the best (Bosch)! Some of us on here have change to MTEC discs and Mintex pads or better still Ferodo pads. I paid £215 (Delivered) for the "Black addition" drilled and groved discs all round including the Mintex pads. They look fantastic and stop the car very well. Something the original ones didn't do

Hope this helps

[Sam29]

I'd change the gear box oil to something like Silkolene Pro SRG (Straight 75W) as theses boxes tend to crunch into 2nd gear a little when cold (Triple syncro) and its hard to select 1st gear on very cold winter mornings.

I have a problem putting the car into first gear on cold days. Also in this westher, when I try to shift gear from 1 to 2, it literally slips from 1st.

What are benefits of Silkolene Pro SRG? And how many liters would we need for MK2 avensis?

Cheers.

[Mistermena]

I'd change the gear box oil to something like Silkolene Pro SRG (Straight 75W) as theses boxes tend to crunch into 2nd gear a little when cold (Triple syncro) and its hard to select 1st gear on very cold winter mornings.

I have a problem putting the car into first gear on cold days. Also in this westher, when I try to shift gear from 1 to 2, it literally slips from 1st.

What are benefits of Silkolene Pro SRG? And how many liters would we need for MK2 avensis?

Cheers.

If I remember correctly is 2.3ltr of gear oil. The SRG is a full ester racing oil so the benifits over a standard full syth oil is that it has a high sheer rate. Plus it has extra protection attitive packages in it. It has a similar viscosity range as a 10w-30 engine oil so allows better gear changing when cold and extra protection when hot.

Here's some info about the oil...

The synthetic materials used for this formulation have an oxidation stability of 3 to 4 times that of conventional mineral oils, prolonging the effective life of the lubricant under extreme working conditions

PRO SRG 75

Fully synthetic, ester based gear oil, of SAE 75W viscosity, developed exclusively for racing transmissions. Has a naturally high viscosity index, to ensure good low temperature performance, excellent shear strength and excellent load carrying capability. Helps to reduce pitting and wear of the gear teeth and provides superior protection and performance under the most demanding race conditions. Ensures good lubrication and prevents overheating in gearbox components, such as selector forks and bearings, which are often starved of lubrication with conventional oils. Withstands high temperatures and protects against high shock loads.

[Sam29]

I'd change the gear box oil to something like Silkolene Pro SRG (Straight 75W) as theses boxes tend to crunch into 2nd gear a little when cold (Triple syncro) and its hard to select 1st gear on very cold winter mornings.

I have a problem putting the car into first gear on cold days. Also in this westher, when I try to shift gear from 1 to 2, it literally slips from 1st.

What are benefits of Silkolene Pro SRG? And how many liters would we need for MK2 avensis?

Cheers.

If I remember correctly is 2.3ltr of gear oil. The SRG is a full ester racing oil so the benifits over a standard full syth oil is that it has a high sheer rate. Plus it has extra protection attitive packages in it. It has a similar viscosity range as a 10w-30 engine oil so allows better gear changing when cold and extra protection when hot.

Here's some info about the oil...

A synthetic gear oil of SAE 75W viscosity developed exclusively for racing transmissions. This grade has a naturally high viscosity index (ensuring good low temperature performance) and excellent shear strength, as well as possessing an inherently excellent load carrying capability. The synthetic materials used for this formulation have an oxidation stability of 3 to 4 times that of conventional mineral oils, prolonging the effective life of the lubricant under extreme working conditions

Have you changed in your car? If yes, what difference do you feel?

Well for 2.3 liter, we have to buy 3 liters, means 45 £....

need to think about it?

How about changing the oil? Is it DIY? or need to go to garage?

[Mistermena]

I'd change the gear box oil to something like Silkolene Pro SRG (Straight 75W) as theses boxes tend to crunch into 2nd gear a little when cold (Triple syncro) and its hard to select 1st gear on very cold winter mornings.

I have a problem putting the car into first gear on cold days. Also in this westher, when I try to shift gear from 1 to 2, it literally slips from 1st.

What are benefits of Silkolene Pro SRG? And how many liters would we need for MK2 avensis?

Cheers.

If I remember correctly is 2.3ltr of gear oil. The SRG is a full ester racing oil so the benifits over a standard full syth oil is that it has a high sheer rate. Plus it has extra protection attitive packages in it. It has a similar viscosity range as a 10w-30 engine oil so allows better gear changing when cold and extra protection when hot.

Here's some info about the oil...

A synthetic gear oil of SAE 75W viscosity developed exclusively for racing transmissions. This grade has a naturally high viscosity index (ensuring good low temperature performance) and excellent shear strength, as well as possessing an inherently excellent load carrying capability. The synthetic materials used for this formulation have an oxidation stability of 3 to 4 times that of conventional mineral oils, prolonging the effective life of the lubricant under extreme working conditions

Have you changed in your car? If yes, what difference do you feel?

Well for 2.3 liter, we have to buy 3 liters, means 45 £....

need to think about it?

How about changing the oil? Is it DIY? or need to go to garage?

Hi, yer I've change it in my T-180 and I've found its made the World of difference. Easy changing gears when cold. No more crunches when going into 2nd gear anymore.

Yer its a very easy DIY job. After securing the car (Axle stands, wheel chocked, handbrake on etc) you'll find a central jacking point/towbar under the engine. jack it up and remove the black plastic cover on the nearside where the gearbox/clutch bell housing is(You'll need to also take off the nearside road wheel as there are some clips and screws there to be removed) and you'll then see a filler/level plug(22mm socket if I remember correctly) that you undo.

On the lower left hand side of the gearbox, where it meets the clutch bell housing you'll find the drain plug(22mm again, its tucked away and difficult to see) put an old washing up bowl under it and take the drain plug out(if the oil hasn't been changed for a while it tends to smell of cats PI*S) and the oil will run out.

Get a new washer an tighten the bolt back up(Sorry forgotten the torque setting) and pour the new oil(I used a hand held pump to make it easier) into the oilfiller/level plug. You'll know when you've put enough in as it will just start to dribble out. Put the oil filler plug back in and the plastic undertrays back on and then its job done and Miller time!

Oh... dont forget to put the road wheel back on or this will be be all worthless Lol... :crutchy: :lol2:

Went a bit made with these thingys! But they make me laugh...

[ministeve]

thanks mister mine is the 2.2 but not the t180 i dont know what this engine should be putting out but it feels lively enough i will lookinto getting a k+n i did not know they made one for this car and i also usualy use zx1 in my cars so will do the oil and gear oil too with your recomend

thanks again

steve

[Mistermena]

Your welcome mate. eBay is the cheapest I've found for the K&N air filter(£43). And Opie Oils for the gear oil (£14.50 per 1ltr)

[Sam29]

I'd change the gear box oil to something like Silkolene Pro SRG (Straight 75W) as theses boxes tend to crunch into 2nd gear a little when cold (Triple syncro) and its hard to select 1st gear on very cold winter mornings.

I have a problem putting the car into first gear on cold days. Also in this westher, when I try to shift gear from 1 to 2, it literally slips from 1st.

What are benefits of Silkolene Pro SRG? And how many liters would we need for MK2 avensis?

Cheers.

If I remember correctly is 2.3ltr of gear oil. The SRG is a full ester racing oil so the benifits over a standard full syth oil is that it has a high sheer rate. Plus it has extra protection attitive packages in it. It has a similar viscosity range as a 10w-30 engine oil so allows better gear changing when cold and extra protection when hot.

Here's some info about the oil...

A synthetic gear oil of SAE 75W viscosity developed exclusively for racing transmissions. This grade has a naturally high viscosity index (ensuring good low temperature performance) and excellent shear strength, as well as possessing an inherently excellent load carrying capability. The synthetic materials used for this formulation have an oxidation stability of 3 to 4 times that of conventional mineral oils, prolonging the effective life of the lubricant under extreme working conditions

Have you changed in your car? If yes, what difference do you feel?

Well for 2.3 liter, we have to buy 3 liters, means 45 £....

need to think about it?

How about changing the oil? Is it DIY? or need to go to garage?

Hi, yer I've change it in my T-180 and I've found its made the World of difference. Easy changing gears when cold. No more crunches when going into 2nd gear anymore.

Yer its a very easy DIY job. After securing the car (Axle stands, wheel chocked, handbrake on etc) you'll find a central jacking point/towbar under the engine. jack it up and remove the black plastic cover on the nearside where the gearbox/clutch bell housing is(You'll need to also take off the nearside road wheel as there are some clips and screws there to be removed) and you'll then see a filler/level plug(22mm socket if I remember correctly) that you undo.

On the lower left hand side of the gearbox, where it meets the clutch bell housing you'll find the drain plug(22mm again, its tucked away and difficult to see) put an old washing up bowl under it and take the drain plug out(if the oil hasn't been changed for a while it tends to smell of cats PI*S) and the oil will run out.

Get a new washer an tighten the bolt back up(Sorry forgotten the torque setting) and pour the new oil(I used a hand held pump to make it easier) into the oilfiller/level plug. You'll know when you've put enough in as it will just start to dribble out. Put the oil filler plug back in and the plastic undertrays back on and then its job done and Miller time!

Oh... dont forget to put the road wheel back on or this will be be all worthless Lol... :crutchy: :lol2:

Went a bit made with these thingys! But they make me laugh...

thanks mate