Prius Noob - Any Tips

[kimptoc]

Hi,

Just had my 2011 T Spirit Prius just over a week now and loving it (compared to the 2000 Avensis).

Wondering if the experts on here had any driving/general usage tips, besides the important "just drive it" -

- Whats the difference between Eco and normal mode - currently just leaving it in Eco mode all the time.

- Anyway to get the satnav to show the speed limit for the current road (spoilt by my tomtom for that)

- Any other satnav tips - 2d or 3d or split? How often does the DVD get updated, whats the cost for the update?

- when stopped in traffic, do you need to put it in P for the engine to think about switching off or will it do that when you are generally stopped? Is it worth worrying about?

Thanks in advance ,

Chris

[Grumpy Cabbie]

Just drive it

Make sure the tyre pressures are spot on as under inflation has a significant affect on mpg's.

'Eco Mode' reduces the feel of the accelerator and makes it less sensitive (though flooring it still gives the same power as Normal). The other thing to be aware of with Eco Mode is that it reduces the power on the a/c which on a run isn't a problem but it can struggle to cool the car in town. Saying that I personally use Eco in town, Normal on A roads and motorways and Power for overtaking.

When stopped in traffic you can put the car in Park and it will look after itself regarding charging etc. You can also leave it in Drive (to no detriment) with your foot on the brake. Personal preference and both ways allow the car to charge if required etc. If you try put it in Neutral however, it will not charge itself if the HV level goes down. Don't try putting the car in Neutral down hills either as the car is designed to switch off the engine and charge itself automatically. Hills = big regen braking opportunities.

Talking of hills, if you come to a steep downward stretch you might want to use the B Brake option (next to D Drive) as this uses the engine as a brake and thus stops the car from potentially overcharging. Don't worry if all the bars on the HV Battery indicator light up going down a hill - it is normal. The car stops itself from being completely overcharged by running the engine (with no fuel) to waste the excess load.

What else is there? Erm, the a/c can make a dreadful noise when first turned on on a hot day - this is normal. Use of EV mode is fun but remember that any energy you take from the HV Battery has to be put back there and that usually involves use of the engine and more fuel. Power mode is great for overtaking.

One last thing - make sure the dealers use 0w20 oil. Check before taking it in for service. Use of any other oil will significantly reduce fuel economy and driveability.

Enjoy your new car.

[Jan&tone]

chris

can't add anything to what Grumpy has said!

Satnav, no it will not show speed limits, that is what your eyes are for!!!

SatNav's are for the guidance of wise drivers and the blind obedience of fools....

How you have it displayed is purely a matter of preference, I have the flat screen that points North all the time, I find it disconcerting to have the map turning round all the time!

Hard drive, I have 22 CD's recorded on it at the moment and 60percent left to use.

You can only copy 'original' cd's to the hard drive, and the Gracenote may not pick up the details of the CD depending on how old the cd is and what version of Gracenote/map you have.

The update to the SatNav can only be done by a Toyota dealer and is not cheap, but how often do roads change....

The only time I use P is when I'm going to be stopped for a couple of minutes, Level crossings, at a set of lights if you get ther as they change to red, that sort of thing...

Any other questions don't hesitate to ask, someone will help if they can, or at least point you in the general direction....

[kimptoc]

Hi,

Thanks for the tips.

Have done a few day trips to "test" things out, using Eco for all of it. Not seen any lack of power issues, so will stick with it :)

I checked the tyre pressure soon after I got it - 42 front/40 back, right? 3 of the 4 were ok. Is a monthly check sufficient for that? Generally it will get low mileage - not used for the work commute.

Have been using the B option as you describe, I had seen comments about not using it, but it seems to give some extra braking power and seems more "eco" than just using the brakes.

Will check with the garage about the oil - have not done that yet.

On the speed limits - there are some roads where the speed is not regularly marked and it could be 20/30/40 - so not sure which bit I am in... Also I must check what the national speed limits are for 1/2 lane roads - used to think it was 50/60...

Sure roads dont change much, but we have been a through some backroads in a week where roads had changed/were new :)

Must stop being one of those "blindly following satnav fools" :) - we got a direction this weekend which got us doing a u-turn and I did not think I had missed a previous instruction... but perhaps I did.

Thanks,

Chris

[Grumpy Cabbie]

Hi,

Thanks for the tips.

Have done a few day trips to "test" things out, using Eco for all of it. Not seen any lack of power issues, so will stick with it :)

I checked the tyre pressure soon after I got it - 42 front/40 back, right? 3 of the 4 were ok. Is a monthly check sufficient for that? Generally it will get low mileage - not used for the work commute.

Have been using the B option as you describe, I had seen comments about not using it, but it seems to give some extra braking power and seems more "eco" than just using the brakes.

Will check with the garage about the oil - have not done that yet.

On the speed limits - there are some roads where the speed is not regularly marked and it could be 20/30/40 - so not sure which bit I am in... Also I must check what the national speed limits are for 1/2 lane roads - used to think it was 50/60...

Sure roads dont change much, but we have been a through some backroads in a week where roads had changed/were new :)

Must stop being one of those "blindly following satnav fools" :) - we got a direction this weekend which got us doing a u-turn and I did not think I had missed a previous instruction... but perhaps I did.

Thanks,

Chris

One thing. Don't use B to brake 80% of the time. The function is for going down long gradients or steep hills not for slowing down at the lights. Your car so you do with it what you wish though :)

[Jan&tone]

On the speed limits - there are some roads where the speed is not regularly marked and it could be 20/30/40 - so not sure which bit I am in... Also I must check what the national speed limits are for 1/2 lane roads - used to think it was 50/60...

Generally in built up areas with street lights it's 30 unless otherwise marked and repeaters show if it's above 30mph

Single carriageway national speed limit is 60 unless marked lower and 70 on dual carriageways unless marked lower.

There are a lot of dual carriageways in London that are 30mph though!

Personally would only use 'B' when going down a hill that you would change down for in a manual car. Braking is different in a Prius, the brake pads only get used at the last stages of braking I believe, regen is used normally.

Tyre pressures on the car are on the door pillar by the drivers seat. 33 front, 32 rear on the low profile tyres when cold. One extra pound is fine, but over inflating can lead to rough rides and in the worst case blowouts!

Eco should only be used in traffic or in towns, you will get better consumption with gentle use of both gas and brake pedals, anticipation and planned driving. You will find that cruise control will also help, use it at every opportunity it also helps keep you at or below the speed limit

[timberwolf]

In case it is not clear (and I'm sure it already is), the "just drive it" advise is really about allowing a new owner to get used to the car and be safe without being overwhelmed or distracted with the various displays or trying to gain those high MPG on day one.

After building up a good feel for how the car handles, I think then is when an owner who wishes to can set about improving their MPG, possibly by changing their style of driving to take advantage of the Hybrid technology and the application of some specific driving techniques such as pulse and glide.

Concerning tyre pressures, I think as a group we tend to be more conservative than some other groups. As above really, I think it is wise to start with the manufacturers recommended tyre pressure ranges and then after a period if you still wish to experiment do so in steps rather than going for the highest PSI that you've read about straight away. I run higher pressures on my Gen 2 than the minimum printed on the door sticker although still within the manufacturers recommended range, but I'm not convinced by some of claims on the internet that there aren't any handling issues if you set the tyres to the highest pressures way beyond the manufacturers recommended values.

[kithmo]

In case it is not clear (and I'm sure it already is), the "just drive it" advise is really about allowing a new owner to get used to the car and be safe without being overwhelmed or distracted with the various displays or trying to gain those high MPG on day one.

After building up a good feel for how the car handles, I think then is when an owner who wishes to can set about improving their MPG, possibly by changing their style of driving to take advantage of the Hybrid technology and the application of some specific driving techniques such as pulse and glide.

Concerning tyre pressures, I think as a group we tend to be more conservative than some other groups. As above really, I think it is wise to start with the manufacturers recommended tyre pressure ranges and then after a period if you still wish to experiment do so in steps rather than going for the highest PSI that you've read about straight away. I run higher pressures on my Gen 2 than the minimum printed on the door sticker although still within the manufacturers recommended range, but I'm not convinced by some of claims on the internet that there aren't any handling issues if you set the tyres to the highest pressures way beyond the manufacturers recommended values.

I found that increasing the tyre pressures did very little for economy, improved handling slightly by lessening understeer but made the ride much harsher and noisier.

[timberwolf]

For some, every little bit helps, even if small or very small, but you've also got balance whether it is worth doing along with your other priorities.

In my case, it is difficult to judge as I do pretty short trips and some of that on the motorway but I prefer them to be a little on the high side than being a bit under (as I don't always get around to checking the tyre pressures as often as I should do), and I'm hoping the higher pressure will increase the life of the tyres.

[kimptoc]

Hi,

So, rarely use B then - probably easiest anyway :) Thanks for clarifying how the brake works.

Still dont understand the problem with using eco-mode on the motorway, is it the risk of lack of power to get out of situations?

On the oil is it 0w20 or 5w30 - which I see in the Iconic Prius guide doc?

I think the thing I am not sure how to approach are situations like at the lights and pulling away - being used to the "oomph" of a 2litre Avensis. I am just trying to be gentler - to keep it out of the power zone, it seems to be sluggish but given its pulling away, maybe I should not worry.

A few years back, I was caught twice within a period of a few minutes doing 40 in a 30 (2 separate stretches, covered by different police stations) - a central London dual carriageway - am sure it was previously 40 but then they reduced it. Hence my paranoia now :(

Also enjoying cruise control - letting the car keep me at a specific speed :)

On the CDs, if I put in a previously recorded CD (by mistake) and try to record it - will it tell me its done already? Probably should just try it ...

Thanks again,

Chris

[Whispering Wind]

I check the tyre pressure and screen washer level weekly and before every long journey. One point to watch - the recommended tyre pressure is for average ambient temperatures - when it is very cold your gauge will register low and when hot will register high. The way to deal with this is to set the gauge for "normal" temps and not to adjust the tyre pressures on cold or warm days. The clue is whether all 4 tyres are up or down by the same amount. If they are then its just ambient temp variations; if one is aberrant then likely there is a slow leak, if not a nail etc, then possibly needing a new valve or the seating sealing.

[Grumpy Cabbie]

Still dont understand the problem with using eco-mode on the motorway, is it the risk of lack of power to get out of situations?

On the oil is it 0w20 or 5w30 - which I see in the Iconic Prius guide doc?

I think the thing I am not sure how to approach are situations like at the lights and pulling away - being used to the "oomph" of a 2litre Avensis. I am just trying to be gentler - to keep it out of the power zone, it seems to be sluggish but given its pulling away, maybe I should not worry.

You can use Eco on the motorways, just it isn't quite as responsive unless you really floor it. Eco restricts or reduces the feel of the accelerator for the first 50% compared to 'normal' mode. Once past the half way point the 'feel' is the same as normal mode.

The oil for the gen2 Prius 2004-2009 is 5w30. The oil for the gen3 Prius 2009 onwards (the new model) is 0w20.

You suggest the car is sluggish yet like to drive in Eco mode If you put the car in 'Normal' or 'Power' you will not find a problem with hesitation at traffic lights (See above for explanation)

Regardng tyre pressures - just keep them at the recommended levels. Too little affects mpg's. Too much can affect handling and braking distances - esp in the wet. You don't want to end up upside down in a ditch because you were trying to get an extra 1mpg!

[Whispering Wind]

The question of putting the car in 'P' at the lights, or not, does as you will have seen bring a range of views with different drivers having different practices. I don't like sitting on the brakes both because this can cause dazzle, at night, to the driver behind and it also increases brake pad wear. Consequently, unless I judge the lights are about to change, I tend to slip it into 'P'.

[Jan&tone]

The question of putting the car in 'P' at the lights, or not, does as you will have seen bring a range of views with different drivers having different practices. I don't like sitting on the brakes both because this can cause dazzle, at night, to the driver behind and it also increases brake pad wear. Consequently, unless I judge the lights are about to change, I tend to slip it into 'P'.

I can go along with the 'dazzling drivers behind" bit, but brake pads only wear when the car is moving!

Whether or not to use P is, as you say, a matter of personal preference

[timberwolf]

The simulated automatic creep function on the Prius is disabled after a short period of holding the car on the brake pedal. Even on a modern conventional automatic the wear just from holding the car in drive is going to be minimal, at least I never noticed any increased brake wear on any of my previous cars.

Historically, I believe what really used to wear out the brakes on old automatics compared with a manual gearbox before electronics in automatics was that there was virtually no engine/transmission braking, so every time you wanted to adjust your position in a tight situation such as merging with traffic you had to use the brakes.

[FourFourTwo]

Still dont understand the problem with using eco-mode on the motorway, is it the risk of lack of power to get out of situations?

Hi Chris. As others have said, there is absolutely no problem with keeping the car in Eco mode all the time. This is what I do in my Auris HSD. The only time I ever change from Eco is to Power mode if I need sudden acceleration for overtaking or to climb a particularly nasty hill, of which there are quite a few in my area. Bear in mind though that the same amount of power is available to you also in Eco mode just by stepping harder on the pedal.

One of the main reasons I use Eco, besides the fact that I am used to it and I feel it gives me finer control over the amount of fuel I am using, is that it also puts the A/C into a more economical mode. Without Eco mode enabled, the A/C blows my head off. :D

[Jan&tone]

Still dont understand the problem with using eco-mode on the motorway, is it the risk of lack of power to get out of situations?

On the oil is it 0w20 or 5w30 - which I see in the Iconic Prius guide doc?

I think the thing I am not sure how to approach are situations like at the lights and pulling away - being used to the "oomph" of a 2litre Avensis. I am just trying to be gentler - to keep it out of the power zone, it seems to be sluggish but given its pulling away, maybe I should not worry.

There is no problem with using eco mode anywhere! it just cuts everything by one third. therefore imo you have to press harder on the gas to get anywhere which means you use more fuel!

I rarely use eco - i would rather drop into EV mode if I'm under 30, over 30 then there's no point in using either eco or ev, simply use normal (no buttons pushed) or pwr if you want to overtake something a bit quick like and be gentle on the loud pedal....

I changed from a 2.0 petrol Avensis to my first Prius (Gen2) and had no problems pulling away at lights. My current Gen3 is actually very very nippy at lights (not in eco mode) and has surprised many a 'hot hatch' with the accelleration.. (the look on their faces when the 'milk float' is careering off into the distance is priceless:) )

I feel that if you are having problems getting away from traffic lights leave the eco button alone!

Oil - regardless of what others say, the Gen 3 MUST MUST be filled or topped up (rarely) with 0w-20. No argument on that, 5w-30 can be used IN AN EMERGENCY ONLY there have been many discussions on this and by now all main dealers should know that Gen3 Prius and HSD Auris ONLY have 0w-20 when they are thirsty.

[Terry953]

Hello kimptoc

This is an old chestnut but worthwhile repeating for our new friends edification.

With regard to using ‘P’ or ‘N’ at traffic lights - queues - ect - ect, try out the following and then take your pick :--

Pre-amble:---

Holding the car on the footbrake is not recommended from a safety angle and consideration for other drivers. So always use the parking brake.

The ‘P’ option is only for Parking the car ie immobilising the car and vacating it if wanted.

[When you just select ‘P’ then the vehicle is held stationary by a physical mechanical lock within the transmission and this should be backed up with the parking brake to prevent any outside stresses damaging it ex. someone running into your rear, or the weight of the car on a hill.]

Option 1 :---

By selecting ‘P’ you disconnect the transmission switch [gear lever] so when it’s time to drive off you must apply the foot brake to enable reactivation of the transmission switch before you can select your direction choice ie ‘D’ or ‘R’

Advantage :--

You disengage the drive [creep feature] so no adverse Battery drainage occurs, this can be ascertained by observing the Energy Display.

Disadvantages :--

Potential for damaging transmission.

Maximum activities needed to get moving again

When you come to move off you have 3 operations to perform =

1. Apply footbrake to activate the transmission switch [gear lever]

2. Move transmission switch to desired position ‘D’ or ‘R’

3. Release the parking brake.

Option 2 :---

By selecting ‘N’ You disengage the drive [creep feature] so no adverse Battery drainage occurs, this can be ascertained by observing the Energy Display.

Advantages :--

No stresses are placed on the transmission from rear shunts or hill starts.

Only 2 activities needed to get moving again

Disadvantages :--

None.

When you come to move off you only have 2 operations to perform =

1. Move transmission switch to desired position ‘D’ or ‘R’

2. Release the parking brake.

Option 3 :---

Another option is to just leave the transmission in ‘D’ and apply the parking brake.

This maintains the creep feature and energy will be drained from the transmission Battery and stresses the drive train unnecessarily if over along period. This can be ascertained by observing the ‘Energy Display’ showing a discharge from the battery to the stationary wheels.

Advantages :--

Only 1 activity needed to get moving again

Disadvantages :--

Unnecessary stresses are placed on the transmission and battery.

When you come to move off you only have 1 operation to perform =

1. Release the parking brake.

Forget about charging issues as this will take place automatically if it’s needed from N or P, the system will not allow the battery to become discharged beyond the point of losing drive.

Oh! my preference is Option 2 - I find even at the head of a traffic light queue I don’t hold up the vehicle behind me, and very often have the secret smugness of watching the guy/girl in the next lane drop back when a gear has to be changed [remember that].

These comments are for an Auris Hybrid - maybe different for the Prius ??

TerryB

[timberwolf]

<snip>

Forget about charging issues as this will take place automatically if it’s needed from N or P, the system will not allow the battery to become discharged beyond the point of losing drive.

<snip>

There is no charging of the HV Battery when in Neutral. It is physically impossible to charge the HV Battery when in Neutral because of the way the Neutral was implemented, the two Motor-Generators and the petrol engine are permanently connected to the transmission (i.e. there are no clutches in the Toyota Hybrid system used on the Prius or Auris HSD), so to achieve Neutral the system effectively open-circuits the coils on the Motor-generators and therefore no AC electricity can be generated.

[kithmo]

Hello kimptoc

This is an old chestnut but worthwhile repeating for our new friends edification.

With regard to using ‘P’ or ‘N’ at traffic lights - queues - ect - ect, try out the following and then take your pick :--

Pre-amble:---

Holding the car on the footbrake is not recommended from a safety angle and consideration for other drivers. So always use the parking brake.

The ‘P’ option is only for Parking the car ie immobilising the car and vacating it if wanted.

[When you just select ‘P’ then the vehicle is held stationary by a physical mechanical lock within the transmission and this should be backed up with the parking brake to prevent any outside stresses damaging it ex. someone running into your rear, or the weight of the car on a hill.]

Option 1 :---

By selecting ‘P’ you disconnect the transmission switch [gear lever] so when it’s time to drive off you must apply the foot brake to enable reactivation of the transmission switch before you can select your direction choice ie ‘D’ or ‘R’

Advantage :--

You disengage the drive [creep feature] so no adverse battery drainage occurs, this can be ascertained by observing the Energy Display.

Disadvantages :--

Potential for damaging transmission.

Maximum activities needed to get moving again

When you come to move off you have 3 operations to perform =

1. Apply footbrake to activate the transmission switch [gear lever]

2. Move transmission switch to desired position ‘D’ or ‘R’

3. Release the parking brake.

Option 2 :---

By selecting ‘N’ You disengage the drive [creep feature] so no adverse battery drainage occurs, this can be ascertained by observing the Energy Display.

Advantages :--

No stresses are placed on the transmission from rear shunts or hill starts.

Only 2 activities needed to get moving again

Disadvantages :--

None.

When you come to move off you only have 2 operations to perform =

1. Move transmission switch to desired position ‘D’ or ‘R’

2. Release the parking brake.

Option 3 :---

Another option is to just leave the transmission in ‘D’ and apply the parking brake.

This maintains the creep feature and energy will be drained from the transmission battery and stresses the drive train unnecessarily if over along period. This can be ascertained by observing the ‘Energy Display’ showing a discharge from the battery to the stationary wheels.

Advantages :--

Only 1 activity needed to get moving again

Disadvantages :--

Unnecessary stresses are placed on the transmission and battery.

When you come to move off you only have 1 operation to perform =

1. Release the parking brake.

Forget about charging issues as this will take place automatically if it’s needed from N or P, the system will not allow the battery to become discharged beyond the point of losing drive.

Oh! my preference is Option 2 - I find even at the head of a traffic light queue I don’t hold up the vehicle behind me, and very often have the secret smugness of watching the guy/girl in the next lane drop back when a gear has to be changed [remember that].

These comments are for an Auris Hybrid - maybe different for the Prius ??

TerryB

In option 2, don't you have to apply the footbrake to change from "N" to "D", i.e. 3 steps.

In option 3, I believe holding the footbrake disengages the creep, so no stress on the transmission/battery AFAIK, therefore no disadvantages to the driver, but maybe to the drivers behind with the brake lights on.

I favour option 3 mostly because I'm lazy, but I do use option 1, apply "P", if waiting more than a minute or so.

[Terry953]

<snip>

Forget about charging issues as this will take place automatically if it’s needed from N or P, the system will not allow the battery to become discharged beyond the point of losing drive.

<snip>

There is no charging of the HV Battery when in Neutral. It is physically impossible to charge the HV Battery when in Neutral because of the way the Neutral was implemented, the two Motor-Generators and the petrol engine are permanently connected to the transmission (i.e. there are no clutches in the Toyota Hybrid system used on the Prius or Auris HSD), so to achieve Neutral the system effectively open-circuits the coils on the Motor-generators and therefore no AC electricity can be generated.

Bit puzzled by your discourse 'timberwolf', Who said anything about charging in P or N ?

I basically stated that when you move from N or P charging will take place if needed.

Hey kithmo, No doubt by now you have checked out my statements and found them to be correct, you said :---

In option 2, don't you have to apply the footbrake to change from "N" to "D", i.e. 3 steps. Not in my Auris

In option 3, I believe holding the footbrake disengages the creep, so no stress on the transmission/battery AFAIK, therefore no disadvantages to the driver, but maybe to the drivers behind with the brake lights on.

again Not in my Auris

If these happen with a Prius then the functions are different to my Auris - I did qualify this in my post.

Cheers Terry

[MSHasan]

<snip>

Forget about charging issues as this will take place automatically if it's needed from N or P, the system will not allow the battery to become discharged beyond the point of losing drive.

<snip>

There is no charging of the HV Battery when in Neutral. It is physically impossible to charge the HV Battery when in Neutral because of the way the Neutral was implemented, the two Motor-Generators and the petrol engine are permanently connected to the transmission (i.e. there are no clutches in the Toyota Hybrid system used on the Prius or Auris HSD), so to achieve Neutral the system effectively open-circuits the coils on the Motor-generators and therefore no AC electricity can be generated.

Bit puzzled by your discourse 'timberwolf', Who said anything about charging in P or N ?

I basically stated that when you move from N or P charging will take place if needed.

I believe 'timberwolf' interpreted your initial statement (as did I) that the system will charge regardless of whether the car is in N or P. However, as pointed out, the system does not charge in the neutral gear. Someone who uses this option (option 2) may unknowingly excessively discharge the hybrid Battery.

[cbcdesign]

Hello kimptoc

This is an old chestnut but worthwhile repeating for our new friends edification.

With regard to using ‘P’ or ‘N’ at traffic lights - queues - ect - ect, try out the following and then take your pick :--

Pre-amble:---

Holding the car on the footbrake is not recommended from a safety angle and consideration for other drivers. So always use the parking brake.

I very very rarely if ever move out of Drive into Neutral and apply the hand break when I stop at lights in an Automatic. The idea that it is unsafe doesn't stand up to scrutiny either. It’s no different to being in slow traffic in stop start conditions where a driver is constantly on and off the break in an Automatic. It’s not as though the car will rapidly accelerate anyway if the brake is accidently released. It will creep which will be noticed by a driver almost immediately unless he is asleep!

Your point about consideration for other drivers is a fair point regarding lights but to be honest it’s only really a problem at night.

[Terry953]

Dear cbcdesign

I cannot morally let your comment “The idea that it is unsafe doesn't stand up to scrutiny” regarding my comments “safety considerations” go unchallenged.

Please refer to the following :--

http://www.drivertrainingtoday.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=2664.0

http://www.iam-bristol.org.uk/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=225&Itemid=58

and the attachment dazzle lifted from the Highway Code.

Now I will expand on my reasoning.

Holding a vehicle stationary by only the footbrake is unsafe for several important reasons.

1. The dazzle situation you appreciate, but did you also know that according to the Road Vehicle Lighting

Regulations - regulation No. 27 it the law not to dazzle?

2. Consider the mechanics of getting hit up the rear whilst in this unsafe situation.

Vehicle runs into your rear - Your body is subjected to the ‘whiplash effect’

A. Head thrust back into the headrest [hopefully correctly adjusted] but still could sustain

Injury.

B. Your torso [supported by the seat and backrest] is pretty well protected, but

due to the softness of the seat construction, your torso will be pulled further into

it.

As your legs are attached they also will be pulled back and as you feet are

attached to your legs they will also be pulled back and as one of them is holding the

footbrake on, the pressure will be diminished or even released completely.

To exacerbate the problem, the feet and lower legs don’t have any support, so will

also be whiplashed back [pivoting from the knees] further diminishing the

braking pressure. Result NO BRAKES.

C. Your car will now be thrust forward unrestrained either into the vehicle in front or

Into the traffic stream, be you on a roundabout or at a road junction.

This will put you into the potential situation of further damage to your car and

further damage to you. Overall Result Increased DAMAGE risk to everything.

Risk all this because you can’t be bothered to apply the parking brake, which I believe on the Prius is foot operated so you don’t even have to take your hands off the steering wheel !!!

Oh Come On !! - You’ve got another foot [hopefully, if not I apologise] use that to effect the parking function. I am presuming the Prius parking pedal is left foot operated ,not that it makes any difference.

Terry

[Jan&tone]

agree pretty much with all that Terry says, as far as dazzle goes, that also includes retrofit hid's Imo!

I would comment though, that where I live, if you have stopped at a set of lights with either nothing behind you, or far enough away to still be asleep you would be very lucky! I don't think I have EVER stopped at a set of lights, or roundabout, or level crossing without someone behind me...

After all, "the car in front is a Toyota"!