Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


  • Join Toyota Owners Club

    Join Europe's Largest Toyota Community! It's FREE!

     

     

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

The outer constant velocity joints on my 2004 Avensis Verso need replacing, they make a slight knocking noise when driving slowly and turning the steering wheel.

Been to the dealer first to inquire - turns out they'd order the complete shaft + inner and outer CV at €800 a pop ex VAT. And if they order the shaft with only the outer CV joint it is somehow even more expensive.

They told me they tried to replace a CV joint with a replacement kit in the past, but that it was so labour intensive that it wasn't worth the trouble as the parts are usually difficult to take apart.

Now I've seen CV joint kits on eBay for about €100 (e.g. CV Joint Kit, a little more including the boot kit. I've also seen stories one can just as well get a refurbished drive shafts with new CV joints, and return the old one.

Would it be as hard as the dealer says to replace the CV joint on a shaft? If it doesn't involve hydraulicly pressing the thing apart I figure I could have a go at it myself (I've been known to do some occasional maintenance and modding ;) ) It doesn't seem too complex to me unless things are stuck in a way I can't get them loose wihtout breaking something. Anyone have experience?

Thanks,

RX-Men-8

  • 3 months later...

Posted

Well, the time is near, I've ordered and received a CV Joint kit and found a really nice video on how to do it.

Not as easy as I thought - because of the ring that locks the Joint to the shaft the old jount needs to be broken :o

Doable though, anyone know if all transmission fluid comes out if I remove the shaft? Or just some differential oil?

Mine has an auto box, so I'm wondering how much oil to expect to come out and refill.

Cheers,

RX-Men-8

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Okay, talking to myself again in this topic...

Found out that the automatic transmission and differential are in the same oil circuit/housing. There is no separate drain plug for the diff. Now the driveshafts are placed quite high in the gearcase, so I don't expect much oil to come out. The transmission fluid on the dipstick seems quite old, tough. Instead of a reddish colour it is more like a dark brown. Not that it's a problem now, the auto box shifts like "new", even though the car has done 230.000km.

So, I've scored 5 litre Toyota ATF T-4 and I think I'll drain the gearbox at the same time just to be able to put in some fresh oil. Without changing filter and cleaning the strainer at least half the oil will be new.

The CV joint will be replaced next weekend :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Well, job done :) Thanks to my dad to lend a helping hand and using his workbench.

It startet off not so easily, the centre nut wouldn't come off the shaft. Do this with the wheel still on the car and on the ground, to prevent damaging the diff/gears. But I ended up chiseling it off. Soft material, so it was doable, but set me back almost an hour. Here a pic of the suspension with the shaft already out. I was planning to loosen the lower ball joint, but that nut wouldn't budge either. Luckily it was enough to take out the two bolts from the McPherson strut and tilt the axle hub aside (not forgetting to move the ABS sensor out of the way) to take the shaft out.

On the diff side, the shaft can be levered out with the angled end of a crowbar, from the wheel well aftside of the driveshaft. There's an indentation on the shaft for the crowbar to grip. Oh, btw I drained the gear oil beforehand, so no mess would ensue. Aprrox 3,8 L / 1 US Gallon of nearly black oil came out. Time for new bright red T IV!

Homokineet01.jpg

Here's the shaft with the worn CV Joint in the vise.

Homokineet02.jpg

Here the boot is off and we're breaking the bearing cage and taking the balls out.

Homokineet03.jpg

Then, this part still had to come off, time for some disc grinding.

Homokineet04.jpg

Homokineet05.jpg

Homokineet06.jpg

Then, putting the new one on. The trick with the hose clamp (from the instruction film above) to hold the locking spring together didn't work for us. Wit two pair of hands we managed, me poking the locking ring together with two small flat screwdrivers and my dad shoving the CV joint on the shaft. This took some patience ;) Ready to grease her up.

Homokineet07.jpg

Ready to be put in place

Homokineet08.jpg

And a pic of the diff hole. Pushing the shaft back in was not too hard, the locking spring is obviously less tight here.

Homokineet09.jpg

All in all it took me about four hours (a whole day with all the people coming by to have a look and a friendly talk ;) and grandpa playing with the kids. )

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I joined this forum to see how this job was done.

I found your post and have to say.

A Massive Thank You.

Your posting Of pictures and words has not gone unnoticed.

Thanks Again.

  • Like 1

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Finally yesterday I found the time to replace the passenger side (right side), the one with the diff-side shaft extension and bearing like in the video. The bearing comes off with the shaft assembly, just two bolts hold the bearing housing in the bracket which is bolted to the engine.

It was easier the second time around.. It helps having a "deep" 12 pointed socket wrench (30mm) for the original Toyota center nut, so I didn't have to chisel it off this time.

So all is quiet now :)

Cheers,

RX-Men-8

Latest Deals

Toyota Official Store for genuine Toyota parts & accessories

Disclaimer: As the club is an eBay Partner, The club may be compensated if you make a purchase via eBay links

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now






×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership


  • Insurance
  • Support