Polishing Cars?

[))Mark II((]

Could anyone help giving me Step by Step How to polish a car ( Sorry but i really don't know) ???

[Fidgits]

Right..... here we go....

Autoglym polish:

Rinse car down (hose pipe)

Then wash with car shampoo & warm water with sponge

Rinse off shampoo with hose

Chammy dry

Use Autoglym polish, add in small sections, circular motions. Use clean cloth to polish off

Meguiers Polish

Clean as above

Using gold class wax, cover whole car with polish, then go around and buff off

Repeat with finishing wax.

[jimma]

alternatively Meguiers 3 step

1. Paint restorer - Cover whole car, thin layer, buff off with soft clean yellow duster then repeat for 2. Crystal Polish (same method) 3. Carnuba wax seal (same method). Amazing resullts and very easy to buff off.

[Fidgits]

well, I was trying to keep it simple...

But if you have meguriers scratch X, insert this before polish...

[jimma]

well, I was trying to keep it simple...

But if you have meguriers scratch X, insert this before polish...

Thats great stuff 'n all :) even works on glass (very fine scratches only, not car glass!!)

[Fidgits]

well, I was trying to keep it simple...

But if you have meguriers scratch X, insert this before polish...

Thats great stuff 'n all :) even works on glass (very fine scratches only, not car glass!!)

tis indeed

[))Mark II((]

thanks alot!

I think i am ready to go for it, but if it spoiled my car :ffs:

You know what could happen! :arrgg-matey:

[jimma]

thanks alot!

I think i am ready to go for it, but if it spoiled my car :ffs:

You know what could happen! :arrgg-matey:

Just make sure your buffing cloths are very very soft. Pure terrylyne or yellow dusters (the soft fluffy type)

[Karma Supra]

Rinsed off with fairy liquid in hot water with a sponge. (including wheels and inner arches)

jetted off with a jet hose attatchment, including under the car to get any salty mud off.

Dried off (no need to use a chamios if you are going to T cut and polish it)

T-cutted all over (mutton cloth to put on and another one to take off)

Turtle Wax colour treatment anti sctratch polish all over, again a cloth to put it on, and one to take it off.

Topped it with Auto Glym high resin top polish (same cloth trick).

Then clean the side and rear windows with windowlene, and the front with car window cleaning solution (no wax = no smears with the wipers)

That cars 16 years old and cleaning it like that keeps it shining like new

Excuse the dodgey headlights, I was experimenting with the broken headlights look

[Rash@R.A.Motors]

Mr Miyagi (from Karate Kid 1) "daniel San - Wax on - Wax off - Wax on - Wax off" sorry guys couldnt resist

Rash

[Kelvyn]

If you use fairy liquid i hope you polish it every time you wash it. Its very bad for paintwork. We should also add that he should soap from the top and work down to the bottom.

[jimma]

If you use fairy liquid i hope you polish it every time you wash it. Its very bad for paintwork. We should also add that he should soap from the top and work down to the bottom.

I agree, washing up liquid is stuffed full of corrosive mineral salts!

[nezerr]

I maybe wrong but always thought washing up liquid made the lacquer on the paint go dull and cloudy? i remember washing my dads car as a kid using washing up liquid and he went spare saying it would ruin the paint?

[nezerr]

The first step to keep your car beautiful is washing - so do it right!

It has been proven over and over, and you have probably felt it yourself, that when your car looks good, you feel good driving it. Do you recall that first time you drove your car home and when you parked and walked away from it, you couldn't help but look back to take another look at that beauty.

Well, we can all take simple steps to keep our car looking that good and when the day comes that you decide to sell it, your bank account will feel the benefit of the care you took of your car. We are going to have a look at cleaning our car in the proper way and next time we will discuss how to protect its beauty through simple steps such as waxing.

The most important thing about caring for your car is using the right products. The painted surface of your vehicle is tough against wind and rain, but few people realise just how delicate the paintwork is and how little it takes to damage it. You can help prevent unnecessary damage by keeping your car clean and protected. Using the wrong products will guarantee damage and regret. For instance, some people associate cleaning with sudsy water. They automatically think washing-up liquid for suds - yeah!! Sticky stains? Get a scouring pad - no worries! If you believe that the products under your kitchen sink are what you should use on your car then please read on. It will be worth it.

The paint on your car is only slightly thicker than a cheap plastic bag. The reason it is shiny is that there are important oils on the surface which give it a "wet" look. The newer the car, the more oils there are on the surface. Using the wrong detergent will literally wash the oils off the paint and leave it with a dry, dull look which gradually becomes cracked or flaky. This is known as oxidation. The paint is being starved of what it needs to stay alive and you will find a dead layer forming on the surface and this is exactly what you don't want. But using something like washing-up liquid or washing powder will cause oxidation. What you should use is a proper car shampoo, and you can get this at any good car care shop.

What can I say about scouring pads? How about "goodbye, nice car!" A favoured product among professionals is a large, soft sponge with a big "cell" structure. Never use anything even slightly abrasive as this will scratch your car. To go with the shampoo and the sponge, you will need a bucket full of clean, fresh water. If you have one, I would highly recommend hooking up your garden hose as running water is a definite bonus.

You might think a pressure washer is unbeatable for washing a car, but this isn't true. All you need to wet or rinse the car is a good steady flow of water streaming over it. You will need the bucket of water to keep dunking the sponge. Add the car shampoo to the water as recommended by the manufacturer and swish it up. You want plenty of suds to work with. As you wash the car, dirt will be lifted off the surface by the suds and the sponge will then absorb the dirt and grit up into the cells. If you don't dunk the sponge regularly, dirt will build up on it and then scratch the paint.

Wheels and tyres are affected by different types of dirt and this will be discussed in the near future. To touch briefly on it, wheels suffer from both regular dirt and also brake dust. Brake dust is heated particles emitted by your brake pads and it has a corrosive effect on your alloys. This is a particular problem with a particular solution. Wheel cleaner! Wheel cleaner is a solvent and is quite acidic, so if you decide to purchase one, read the instructions carefully. Because of the nature of the dirt and the cleaner used on wheels, it's really important to use a different sponge down here. You may even find yourself using a slightly stiff brush on your wheels. A medium toothbrush is handy for dirt in hard to reach crevices.

Dirt cannot be avoided and the toughest type to remove is tar. You will normally see it on the bottom half of the car and on the bumpers. You will notice it more during the warmer months along with those squished bee and fly carcasses. The best way to remove these blemishes without harming the paint is a different solvent. Insect and Tar Remover. You can find one solvent to remove both, or separate solvents are available to tackle the individual problem if one happens to be a lot worse than another.

After you wash your car, you might not have realised it, but drying it off will really help. The best thing to use is a 100% cotton terry towel. A clean, slightly old bath towel is great as it won't leave that much lint on the car. But it should be fluffy, not an old co**** one. Drying your car will prevent streaks and water marks and leave it ready to take a good coat of wax. Waxing is important and will be discussed in detail in the next My Car article on www.eForecourt.com

I will finish up here with the steps to follow through.

1. Wash the Wheels first! Do this whether you have a Wheel cleaner or not and use a separate sponge or brush. Next take care of any tar or insect problems.

2. Wash the car in a shaded area, on a slight incline. This will help stop water drying off too quickly and allow it to run out of recessed areas.

3. Wash from the top down using a back and forth, wiping-off motion, rather than a circular action. It helps prevent swirl-marks this way. Rinse frequently and keep dunking that sponge to get the dirt off. Make sure there is enough water in the bucket to allow the dirt to sink to the bottom and enough suds going to lift the dirt off the car.

4. Rinse off with free flowing water. Let it sheet from the top down, taking any loose dirt. If my car was fairly dirty, I would repeat the whole wash again now.

5. Take your terry towel and fold it down into a manageable square. Start with the roof and use a back and forth wiping-off motion, turning and re-folding the towel regularly. You don't want any little bits of trapped dirt scratching the car at this stage.

Well, at this point you may have some questions so be sure to visit the forums and I will be glad to answer them. I will finish here because you have had enough for one lesson but this is just the first article in a series. Next time, we will discuss what harms the exterior of your car and how to combat it. Now get off the internet and go wash your car! The fresh air will do you good.

[Fidgits]

gotta love copy n paste...

(wonder if its from eForecourt?)

[Yarisboy]

washing up liquid is fine to REMOVE any polish/wax on the paint already i.e. Meguiars... but after fairly liquid it should be washed with a decent car shampoo e.g. turtle wax wash to restore some nutrients to the paint.

After washing up liquid u basically have 'bare' paint to work with... as long as it's all washed off properly u shouldn't really have a problem... just be sure to apply some good polish/wax as karmasupra has obviously stated he does....

I wouldn't make a habit of it though, just my opinion... I think you're far better off sticking to the proper car shampoos.

btw, Meguiars really does take some beating!

[Karma Supra]

In over a year of ownership I used washing up liquid once to take off all polish and grime usually I was it it plain water ;)

[Funkadelic]

Washing from top to bottom helps.

Gravity takes care of all the dirt then.

[Braindead]

I use a device I got at Costco for about £18. Very soft broom style brush on the end of an extendable aluminium handle. Connects to the hose with a standard click fitting. Water flows down the handle and through the brush. Also has a reservoir for shampoo.

Also comes with a spray attachment with loads of different spray patterns.

Bought it when I had an MPV and couldn't reach over the roof. Still use it on the Prius...being an old !Removed! it saves bending!

Rinse first, wash with brush and shampoo, rince again and dry with synthetic chamoise.

Seems OK!

I notice a lot of discussion about wax.....take a look at this review

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product_test/...ry.php?id=37491 and select POLISH from the list of reviews

They seem to rate Turtle Wax Gloss Guard as best.

[))Mark II((]

nezerr !!!

[nezerr]

well what can i say.........

i was board!!!!

worth a read though lol

[Bearcat]

Copied below is a Which? Online report on Best Buy Car Polishes, but it contains a few tips ;)

Our Best Buy polishes will not only make your car gleam, but they will protect it from the ravages of nature

Every newly polished bonnet is a prime firing target for pigeons, or so it can seem. Our feathered friends can do considerable damage to a car's paintwork, so it's wise to choose a polish that protects your car as well as one that makes it gleam.

But if you haven't yet found a favourite brand, a shopping trip could leave you feeling somewhat perplexed. Is there a difference between wax and polish? Should you buy a colour-specific one? Should you buy a spray-on polish or one that is applied with wipes? Fear not, we've rolled up our sleeves and set to work with 25 popular polishes that you'll find in car shops, garages or supermarkets. Our endeavours reveal not only which polishes will make your car gleam and which ones will best protect it from the elements but, also, which ones offer the best resistance to the dreaded bird droppings.

Why Wax?

The terms 'wax' and 'polish' are used interchangeably in this article as, essentially, they do the same thing. There are two main reasons to polish your car. The first is to make it look nice. Polishes should add shine and help to conceal surface scuffs and marks (though they're unlikely to mask scratches which have removed paintwork). The second is to help protect your car's bodywork against unavoidable environmental damage from things like rain, grime, salts, tree sap, and bird droppings. Even sunlight can cause harm.

Nowadays, the bodywork of new cars is given an anti-corrosion treatment and a clear hard protective topcoat over the colour layer. But, as the car ages, this barrier diminishes, leaving the bodywork duller and more exposed to the elements which can cause rusting. Keeping your car clean helps remove some of the agents which can cause damage and also helps to revive its appearance. But applying polish goes further by adding a physical barrier that can help prolong the life of a new car's topcoat or, on an older car, compensate for one that's deteriorated.

How We Tested

The ease of use and appearance ratings, are the result of subjective verdicts agreed by our panel of four lab technicians and one professional valeter. Each tester tried every polish. The panel then rated the polishes for how easy they were to apply and use. With the exception of trim staining, smearing and streaking, appearance was assessed by comparing the results side-by-side on a red, 11-year old car.

If water forms in droplets on a car's surface, there is some protectionA laboratory tested for protection using cut panels of cars. For information about bird lime tests, see 'Stop the Pigeon!'. All the other ratings are based on a 'beading' test - if splashed water forms droplets on the panel surface, the wax is working; if it flattens out, the protection has worn off. Each polish was applied to individual panels, leaving one half untreated. We then applied droplets of water to both halves, and measured the angle at which they made contact with the surface, to see how much each polish improved the car's protection. We then artificially weathered the panels, to simulate the effects of leaving your car outside in extremes of temperature, wetness and humidity. By repeating the tests, after the equivalent of around six weeks and three months, we could establish how well the polishes were still protecting the car.

Staying Power

For some diligent people, polishing their car is a weekly pastime. But, for many of us, it's considered a chore. So, if you'd rather polish your car as seldom as possible, it's best to choose a polish that will protect your car for as long as possible.

In our tests, all polishes gave good protection for as long as six weeks, while a few were still going strong after three months. You can tell how well your car is protected from the elements by looking at how well the surface repels one of bodywork's main enemies - water. If the surface is waxed, droplets of water rest on it in high, dome-shaped beads. This beading means that the water's making minimal contact with the surface and is less of a hazard. On an unwaxed surface, rather than being repelled, water droplets flatten and spread out. This is a good indication that extra protection is needed.

In our technical tests, we compared the water repellent qualities of the polishes by putting them on car panels and comparing them with untreated sections. We found that all polishes gave a measurable improvement in repelling water when first applied. After the equivalent of six weeks, all polishes were still giving good results compared with the untreated panels.

But, after three months of artificial rain, salt and sun weathering results were far more varied. Five of the polishes, particularly Eagle One, Halfords Rapid, Simoniz Max Wax Cream, Mer, and Turtle Wax High Gloss Spray, were scarcely better at repelling water than unpolished panels. The more durable polishes, however, really showed their mettle. Halfords Colour, Halfords Showroom, Teflon and Turtle Wax Colour polishes were still going strong. Comma Top Gloss was also fairly long lasting. These are the ones for you if you're a reluctant polisher.

How Often Should You Polish?

It's possible that some polishes on test aren't intended to give protection for as long as three months. It's hard to tell, though, as few of the bottles give guidance about how frequently you should wax, or how much to use. Both Zymöl (which had fairly good durability after three months) and Halfords Williams F1 Team polishes (which had poor durability after three months) recommend using the product at least three to four times a year. But the manufacturer of Mer, which had very poor durability after three months, told us it re-commends using Mer only at least twice a year, or as required.

There is no simple answer. You'll need to take into account the age and condition of your car, then, use the protection ratings in our ratings table, to help you work out how frequently you will need to polish with the wax you choose. Alternatively, just reapply polish when water stops beading on the car's surface, or when it looks ready for another shine. See 'How to Get the Best From Your Polishing', for more tips.

Stop the Pigeon!

Bird lime, as pigeon droppings are known politely, can be a real menace. It can be extremely acidic and can permanently mark your car. The trusty staff at our testing lab were given the unenviable task of using real bird lime to test the polishes. They even had to bake it on to the polished car panels to simulate the effects of leaving your splattered car in the sun for a day. The ratings table, shows how well the different polishes protected from bird lime stains. There was one clear winner. If pigeons are a problem in your area, then choose Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection.

How Good Does it Look?

Beauty, as they say, is in the eye of the beholder. So, after buffing and shining, we asked our team of polishers to tell us which waxes they thought gave the best finish. We used them on an 11-year old, red car to compare the appearance of the different polishes because we thought this was likely to highlight the biggest differences. Our panel of five polishers, including a professional valeter, assessed how much shine and gloss each polish added to the car. This judgement didn't take into account the quality or condition of the car's surface before polishing - the panel just rated how shiny they thought the polished area looked on its own merits. Their consensus was that Autoglym Super Resin gave the most shine and gloss. But several polishes - particularly Car Plan's Demon Shine and Halfords Rapid Wax - left our testers pretty underwhelmed.

Most polishes gave an even finish but our tests found that Zymöl Cleaner Wax and Comma Top Gloss both left some streaking and smearing.

Scuffs and Scratches

After 11 years on the road, our car's paintwork was blotchy, faded and dull, with plenty of scuffs and scratches. So the team assessed the extent of overall improvement each polish could bring. The best products were the Halfords Williams F1 Team and the Car Plan Triplewax. These are your best bets if you want to improve the appearance of an old car. But if minor scuffs and scratches are your primary concern, the Triplewax stood out as the best. For deeper scratches that have removed paint, you'll need specialist products or a bodyshop.

Trim Staining

The instructions on some polishes warn you to avoid applying them to non-paintwork areas like door trims and bumpers. But this can happen accidentally, especially when using sprays, so we checked whether any polishes caused staining in these areas. The Turtle Wax Wipes and Car Plan Demon Shine didn't cause any staining at all. All the others left markings of some kind, so we then rated how easily these could be removed after washing with car shampoo. The rating shown in the ratings table combines both results.

Predictably, the worst culprits were the two colour polishes. Halfords Colour proved the most stubborn. We had slightly more success at removing the markings left by Turtle Wax Color Magic. Wonder Wax and Halfords Williams F1 Team also left unwanted marks.

Age, Finish and Colour of Cars

It goes without saying that the age, finish and colour of your car will affect how much difference you'll notice. In our lab tests, each polish was applied to cut panels of three new and three old car surfaces, each of which had pale, dark and metallic finishes. We then used a gloss meter to measure how much glossier each polish made each surface. As you might expect, with the new cars, we didn't find much improvement. But the experiment showed that applying polish to the older cars did increase their gloss, especially on darker-coloured cars, particularly black ones.

Grease, Sweat and Tears

For most of us, the less elbow grease we have to use to make our cars shine, the better. Having worked their way through 25 bottles and tins of polish, our testers quickly worked out which were the easiest to use. The Mer polish proved vexing from the start as its lid is very tricky to remove. And several bottles leaked or splashed, notably the Autoglym Extra Gloss, Comma Top Gloss, Simoniz Max Wax Cream, Sonax Hard Wax and Wonder Wax.

Most products come in liquid form and are applied using a cloth (see 'How to Get the Best From Your Polishing'). But we found three other formats that seem designed with time-saving in mind. Halfords Rapid Car Wax and Turtle Wax High Gloss are dispensed as sprays. We didn't like this format, mainly as it's almost impossible to direct the spray accurately.

Two other formats proved much more popular. Turtle Wax's Impregnated Wipes were 'surprisingly easy to use', though a little tricky to get out of the container. However, you need to use about three to polish a whole car and they're definitely not a good choice if protecting your car is the priority.

Similarly, Car Plan's Demon Shine has a novel approach. You dilute a capful of it in a bucket of water, and then pour it on to the car. To avoid smearing, you then drive the car away. This energy-saving method appealed to our testers but its results were unimpressive. Getting good results, though, doesn't necessarily mean using more elbow grease as most of our Best Buys were fairly easy to use.

If you want a polish that smells nice, our testers advise using Zymöl Cleaner Wax. Its appealing blend of carnauba wax, beeswax, aloe vera, banana and coconut extracts and almond meal compensated for the extra elbow grease it took to apply.

The Costs Compared

It's tricky to work out which polishes give the best value for money. This could vary depending on consistency (some are runnier than others), how often you need to use them, and how big or old your car is. We've tried to give some indication of comparative costs by calculating the cost per millilitre. Sadly, our budget didn't extend to trying out Zymöl's Vintage wax which, at £1,300 (refillable for life), costs more than many second-hand cars. You'd have to be a very enthusiastic car polisher to get your money's worth with that brand.

How to Get the Best From Your Polishing

Thanks to all readers who sent us tips about polishing their cars. We've compiled some of them with the expert advice of our professional valeter to help you get the best results and to keep those polished looks for longer.

Start by washing your car to remove all dirt and grime. Using a soft cloth or sponge, wash from top to bottom, one section at a time, and thoroughly rinse off each section.

Take care when washing a very grimy car as grit could scratch the surface. Use a hose or water jet or wipe off with a cloth gently.

Don't use washing-up liquid. It could strip your car's protective surface. Views are mixed on this, but we recommend erring on the safe side. If water and elbow grease fail, try a car shampoo.

Always wait until the car is cool and dry before you start polishing.

Always read and follow the instructions on your polish's packaging. These should specify whether you should use dry or damp cloths and if you need to let the polish dry before buffing.

Now for the elbow grease - using a cloth, apply the wax on to the car surface by rubbing in a circular motion.

Keep working, now it's time to buff to a polish using a different, clean cloth.

To keep your car looking good for longer, try to park in a garage or shade. Avoid parking under trees or power lines unless you want to see your car splattered with unsightly and damaging tree sap or bird droppings.

Remove bird droppings as soon as possible, especially off roofs and bonnets. They're acidic and could burn or etch the surface.

If you're only going to apply polish a couple of times a year, time your waxing for the start of summer and winter to boost protection against the most extreme types of weather.

Best Buys

No single polish excelled in all our tests. If your main priority is longer-lasting protection, we recommend Turtle Wax Color Magic Plus £8.99 and Halfords Colour Polish £7.99.

These two proved to last longer than most of the other polishes - they gave excellent protection for up to three months - and did a reasonable job at adding shine and gloss. Turtle Wax comes in eight different colours, and Halfords' polish in seven.

Comma Top Gloss car polish £4.99 also gave fairly long-lasting protection and a good finish. However, it proved a bit messy to use.

If you are trying to revive your car's good looks - perhaps to prepare it for sale - we recommend Halfords Williams F1 Team £9.99 and Car Plan Triplewax £4.99. They give good medium-term protection. Turtle Wax Metallic Liquid £5.99 is also worth considering. Simoniz Teflon Polish was one of the best protectors but rated poorly for appearance. So we haven't made it a Best Buy.

Contacts

Ambersil

01278 727272

www.autogroom.net

Armor

0845 602 1995

www.clorox.co.uk

Autocare

0845 6002379

www.highwayautostores.co.uk

Autoglym

0845 130 4536

www.autoglym.co.uk

Car Plan

0161 764 5981

www.cares4cars.co.uk

Comma

01474 564 311

www.commaoil.com

Eagle One

0151 652 1551

www.valvoline.com

Halfords

01527 513 555

www.halfords.com

Mer

020 8401 0002

www.merproducts.com

Simoniz (Holts)

0161 491 7328

www.holtsauto.com

Sonax

01798 344 888

TurtleWax

01695 716610

www.turtlewax.com

Wonder Wax

0161 764 5981

www.cares4cars.co.uk

Zymol

0845 130 8999

www.sportscarworld.net

[Paul C]

Ok so we've had a topic on how wash a car how to polish a car etc etc there is also a thread on having you car superguarded so which in your opinions is best for your car?

If you have your car superguarded does it still require polishing? and if you do polish a car that has been superguarded does it eventually wear it off?

I can see having a new car superguarded but what about one thats a couple of years old are you not sealing the crap in under the superguard?

[Bearcat]

Maybe best to start a new discussion on this rather than add it to the end of one on another topic other wise it may be missed as people tend to only read discussions of intrest to them.