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Vvtli Overheating Nightmare


markgts
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Hi everyone,

I bought my Celica around 3 months ago. It's a 1999 gen7 Jap Import on a "V" plate and has done 90K miles.

It's by far the best car i've ever owned and all was well until a month ago when it suddenly started overheating with no warning signs.

The car has been to 2 mechanics now, the first could not fix it and the second is running out of ideas.

Here is a rundown of what has been done to it so far:

The car will drive for around 4 miles from cold before the temp gauge goes to max.

the first mechanic suspected a blown head gasket, so done a "sniff" test on it, this showed no problems.

he then suspected a stuck thermostat, this was changed with a new part, car still overheats.

Car then went to second mechanic, he suspected a broken water pump, so he stripped it out and found no fault with it,

he also double checked the thermostat was working correctly.

He then suspected a blockage somewhere, so thought the most likely place would be the radiator, so this was changed for a new one. Still overheating!!

He then checked the entire system for any more blockages, he said there was a slight blockage in the heater matrix, so that was cleaned out.

He then bled the system following the proper Toyota procedure. Still exactly the same!!

He then also suggested a failed head gasket, so done a compression test to look for signs of leakage, all cylinders have good compression.

The car will take around 20 mins to heat up from cold at idle, and the fans are working. there is no hot air from the heaters.

So at the moment the car is sitting with everyone out of ideas.

if anybody has any ideas of what could be wrong i would greatly appreciate it

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Are there any signs of coolant loss?

No heat from the heater would indicate either a blocked matrix or its air-locked.

Is the engine actually over-heating and boilng the coolant?

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Are there any signs of coolant loss?

No heat from the heater would indicate either a blocked matrix or its air-locked.

Is the engine actually over-heating and boilng the coolant?

no, no signs of coolant loss, im not sure if it's actually boiling the water but it blew one of the water pipes off after a 3 mile drive.

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Its got to be an Air Lock or a Blockage.

No heat from the blowers means no hot coolant in the matrix which can only be caused by a leak, an air lock or a blockage stopping it from getting in.

Personally i think its a blockage in the matrix. Did he even say what was blocking it before?

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I have the exactly the same problem with mine i have a vvti. the temperature guage kept on going up and every time i went to have a look the bottle had filled right to the top and it was dripping out the over flow, i didnt have no hot air coming throught the car heaters. then i would leave the car to cool down and the water had gone from the bottle. but then you would drive it and the it would do exactly the same thing again. i took it too a garage and they said that my thermostat had gone so i had that replaced and it is still doing the same thing.i took it to another guy and he said that both my lamber sensors had gone because my engine management light had come on, so i haa them done and its still doing it.ive taken it back to him and he said that i have got an air lock. i had a head gasket test done and it came back fine. i havent used the car for 5 weeks coes people just seemt to scratch their head at it.

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It is EXTREMELY rare for a head gasket to go on both the 140 & 190 engines. The most common fault is the radiator going in the bottom corner. As yours has been changed, it has to been an airlock.

These cars are a right PITA to bleed for airlocks.

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If i was you i would find a nice steep hill. Park it with the nose facing upwards and run it with the rad cap off until it warms up and you cannot get any more water in. If there is any air locked in there somewhere, this should get it out. Air locks are common on the Mitsubishi Shoguns and i've used this method a few times to get the air out.

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If you have no hot air from the Heater Matrix and the gauge suddenly whips up - NOT gradually rising - then it is an Air-Lock in the Temperature Sender Elbow of the cooling system. It needs to be drained and correctly refilled carefully.

With my 4A-GE I fill up the rad, cover the cap hole and squeeze the hoses until no more goes in and then I put the cap onto the rad but only on the first notch. Start the engine, let it run and squeeze the hoses.

It will take an hour (can take 10 mins) to make sure it is done first time and for good. ;)

KP

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