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K&n Filter Install


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Posted

Hi all,

Moved away for a short time from electrical/electronic modifications to mi iQ and thought I would have a look at improving performance.I have already had a custom made twin output exhaust system fitted.

So moved to under the bonnet. Today I fitted a K&N filter 571i . It took about 15mins and is fully reversible for people who would want to fit the original air filter back for warranty and servicing so MR T is none the wiser.

I think someone one on here already allowed K%N to use their car in the development of the filter.Many thanks to them. My findings are :- I have a 1.0 multi drive so can't really hold it in a particular gear,but am very pleased with the result.Firstly I would say is that the engine note hasn't changed that much but does on hard acceleration. I would say my normal 0-60 is somewhere in the region of 14 seconds and am now achieving around 9sec depending on how you kick down ect.. It feels very smooth.The K&N installation gives you a cool air hose which sits about 4 inches from the filter in the engine bay and goes down and pops out under the front skirt, held in place with cable ties.It works but was looking for something neater. I am now looking to utilise the front part of the original air box.The back half is removed in the installation along with the original filter

David

Sorry double Post Cant seem to delete it!!

Posted

Hi all,

Moved away for a short time from electrical/electronic modifications to mi iQ and thought I would have a look at improving performance.I have already had a custom made twin output exhaust system fitted.

So moved to under the bonnet. Today I fitted a K&N filter 571i . It took about 15mins and is fully reversible for people who would want to fit the original air filter back for warranty and servicing so MR T is none the wiser.

I think someone one on here already allowed K%N to use their car in the development of the filter.Many thanks to them. My findings are :- I have a 1.0 multi drive so can't really hold it in a particular gear,but am very pleased with the result.Firstly I would say is that the engine note hasn't changed that much but does on hard acceleration. I would say my normal 0-60 is somewhere in the region of 14 seconds and am now achieving around 9sec depending on how you kick down ect.. It feels very smooth.The K&N installation gives you a cool air hose which sits about 4 inches from the filter in the engine bay and goes down and pops out under the front skirt, held in place with cable ties.It works but was looking for something neater. I am now looking to utilise the front part of the original air box.The back half is removed in the installation along with the original filter

David

Sorry double Post Cant seem to delete it!!

Does it affect your insurance premium very much?

And how expensive is the K and N kit?.

I have one on my MG and the benefit apart from better engine breathing is that it can be cleaned rather than needing to be replaced. I bet the standard Toyota air filter for an IQ is an expensive piece of kit on its own!

My Scangauge shows that the inlet air temperature of an IQ engine once warmed up is about 33C with the normal inlet trunking so anything that would reduce that would help the power output.

I presume the ecu automatically adjusts fuel metering to cope with variations in intake temperature outwith the standard specifications.

Posted

Hi all,

....TEXT...

David

Sorry double Post Cant seem to delete it!!

Could you please post some pictures of your work. PS Sorry.. I just saw your other "Topic" with the pictures...

I find very very interesting... and it should improve the engine overall output in a positive way.

Does it not give a difference in the air-intake-temperature? What Johnan says.... about the dropping in temperature is a surprise / it's inside the motor compartment, so how?

And ... I thought it only improved the amount of air intake capacity... Like a reversed turbo? More air.. due to less friction and resistance?

Posted

Hi all,

....TEXT...

David

Sorry double Post Cant seem to delete it!!

Could you please post some pictures of your work. PS Sorry.. I just saw your other "Topic" with the pictures...

I find very very interesting... and it should improve the engine overall output in a positive way.

Does it not give a difference in the air-intake-temperature? What Johnan says.... about the dropping in temperature is a surprise / it's inside the motor compartment, so how?

And ... I thought it only improved the amount of air intake capacity... Like a reversed turbo? More air.. due to less friction and resistance?

If the air intake is repositioned to take in fresh cool air from low down at the front of the car and the new filter somehow achieves this, then the temperature of the incoming air to the engine will be beneficially reduced.

If however the new filter assembly just takes in air from the top/middle of the engine compartment, as is the standard system, then there would be no advantage, in my opinion, of changing the filter assembly without ducting to direct cool air into the filter.

Posted

If the air intake is repositioned to take in fresh cool air from low down at the front of the car and the new filter somehow achieves this, then the temperature of the incoming air to the engine will be beneficially reduced.

If however the new filter assembly just takes in air from the top/middle of the engine compartment, as is the standard system, then there would be no advantage, in my opinion, of changing the filter assembly without ducting to direct cool air into the filter.

I very much agree with you... I also read somewhere in a reaction on this that the ECU can have trouble with this... and just to leave it as it is?

Maybe by using a longer airintakehose you can lower the settings and have fresh air from under the intake.. pff...

Maybe a replacement filter would be a much better idea... if there is one...

And what does the engine do if one just takes the air-filter out of it's casing... and see what happens... so with non resistance (resistance at zero)... huh... Does it really help.

And has this not been done by someone already???


Posted

Hi all,

....TEXT...

David

Sorry double Post Cant seem to delete it!!

Could you please post some pictures of your work. PS Sorry.. I just saw your other "Topic" with the pictures...

I find very very interesting... and it should improve the engine overall output in a positive way.

Does it not give a difference in the air-intake-temperature? What Johnan says.... about the dropping in temperature is a surprise / it's inside the motor compartment, so how?

And ... I thought it only improved the amount of air intake capacity... Like a reversed turbo? More air.. due to less friction and resistance?

To be honest I'm no engine guru, I am of the mind that as with the original filter, the air box ia sealed from the paper filter to the engine inlet. Any thing before that needs to see fresh out side cool air..The K&N filter as you rightly say lives in the engine compartment and is subjected to the local temperature. Part of the kit includes a 1.5 inch plastic covered metal hose which ia positioned 4 inches from the filter and ports out under the front of the car routing cool air to the filter.

David

Posted

Hi all,

Moved away for a short time from electrical/electronic modifications to mi iQ and thought I would have a look at improving performance.I have already had a custom made twin output exhaust system fitted.

So moved to under the bonnet. Today I fitted a K&N filter 571i . It took about 15mins and is fully reversible for people who would want to fit the original air filter back for warranty and servicing so MR T is none the wiser.

I think someone one on here already allowed K%N to use their car in the development of the filter.Many thanks to them. My findings are :- I have a 1.0 multi drive so can't really hold it in a particular gear,but am very pleased with the result.Firstly I would say is that the engine note hasn't changed that much but does on hard acceleration. I would say my normal 0-60 is somewhere in the region of 14 seconds and am now achieving around 9sec depending on how you kick down ect.. It feels very smooth.The K&N installation gives you a cool air hose which sits about 4 inches from the filter in the engine bay and goes down and pops out under the front skirt, held in place with cable ties.It works but was looking for something neater. I am now looking to utilise the front part of the original air box.The back half is removed in the installation along with the original filter

David

Sorry double Post Cant seem to delete it!!

Does it affect your insurance premium very much?

And how expensive is the K and N kit?.

I have one on my MG and the benefit apart from better engine breathing is that it can be cleaned rather than needing to be replaced. I bet the standard Toyota air filter for an IQ is an expensive piece of kit on its own!

My Scangauge shows that the inlet air temperature of an IQ engine once warmed up is about 33C with the normal inlet trunking so anything that would reduce that would help the power output.

I presume the ecu automatically adjusts fuel metering to cope with variations in intake temperature outwith the standard specifications.

I have no idea what the insurance cost changes there might be at the moment. Cost of the filter was £89. Judging by if you buy a genuine MR T version @ £56 a go then you would be quids in as the K&N ones a washable.According to the original article from some time ago, the ECU takes account of metering the extra air.

David

Posted

If the air intake is repositioned to take in fresh cool air from low down at the front of the car and the new filter somehow achieves this, then the temperature of the incoming air to the engine will be beneficially reduced.

If however the new filter assembly just takes in air from the top/middle of the engine compartment, as is the standard system, then there would be no advantage, in my opinion, of changing the filter assembly without ducting to direct cool air into the filter.

I very much agree with you... I also read somewhere in a reaction on this that the ECU can have trouble with this... and just to leave it as it is?

Maybe by using a longer airintakehose you can lower the settings and have fresh air from under the intake.. pff...

Maybe a replacement filter would be a much better idea... if there is one...

And what does the engine do if one just takes the air-filter out of it's casing... and see what happens... so with non resistance (resistance at zero)... huh... Does it really help.

And has this not been done by someone already???

The ideal to me would be a free flow filter, such as a K and N, in a housing which is fed cool air picked up by ducting low down at the front of the car.

Assuming the ecu can cope with the new permanently cooler ambient air being fed to engine.

In the "old" days, removing a filter completely meant the engine would run too leanly (too much air, not enough fuel) and carburettor needles/jets would have to be changed to compensate.

Today it is up to the ecu to try to compensate for changes like that as long as it's inbuilt parameters are not exceeded.

Apart from that, running without a filter is bad news for the internal components of the engine, dirt particles in the inlet air flow means wear in the mechanical components of the top end of the engine.

Posted

K&N filters are washable,

but then need recoated.

Only do this properly with the correct stuff, correctly applied.

(checkout youtube for when you require to do this.)

PITA as far as i am concerned.

Remember about the use of different solvents & even silicon sealers when doing a diy induction setup,

many other vehicles MAF's give up the ghost after sniffing just a small amount, cant see why it will not kill one on a iQ.

george

Posted

Ok people,

Took the iQ on a track today,Remember, mine is a multi Drive 1.0. Well in normal D drive mode, it has what I can only describe as 2 power bands. One is initial from start and is kinda weird as at about 40-50 its like having a turbo kick in. It will freely accelerate up to 80,then pushing the throttle harder the engine sort of changes down and more acceleration to well past 90.Moving it to S mode pushed the rev's to 4500 but does an unbelievable 112mph!!! The car is lowered and has 215 x18's on it and is very stable at that speed.Haven't been able to test at speed up hill because the track is flat with banking corners. On the road , king of the roundabouts now without dicing with death. For local people, the barking/A406 roundabout was well dangerous.

Fuel wise,maintained 110mph for about 5mins and although probably not a lot to go on, gauge was 41.4 mpg avg

As for cooling, I suspect that with the back of the original air box removed more cool fresh air is reaching the engine bay via a 1.5 duct which would normally hit the paper/fibre filter ,but with nothing in its way flows freely towards the K&N.

David

Posted

power band as you describe is as should be for a VVT-i. (variable valve timing)

what are profile are the tyres 215/35/18, & what make of tyre?

george

Posted

Hi George,

The tyres are Yokohama 2i5/35/18 V. Thanks for the VVT info. i don't think I will be running it at that sort of speed again, but just had to try it because it just kept on going and going. Wonder what a 1.33 would be like?

David

Posted

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VVT-i

I also wondered even tho i had driven a borrowed 4 cylinder, but couldnt really thrash it,

then SWMBO got an iQ3

& now i know for certain i prefer the 3 cylinder, suits the CVT better IMO.

george

Posted

Thanks for the link George,

It makes more sense now. I bought my iQ 2 really on walking into the showroom, seeing it and wanted it there and then. I didn't do any research, What model's etc. Just knew I wanted an Auto and it had Satnav and was white.After starting to modify it to look (cool) and finding this site, I then discovered there was a 1.33 out there in the wild and was 4 cylinder.The lumpy tick over of the 3 cylinder is a small bug bearer with me and was ok about it until discovering there was a 4 cylinder. Re-assuringly though, is that other people either can't feel the difference, and/or prefer the 3cylinder like yourself. The only other issue I have with the car, as with others, is the front seat belts getting trapped in the door frame and the rear one's falling out of their slots.will get around to problem solving them later. I know people are not happy with the plastic trim, But i am very careful when it comes to scuffing, and never put anything with sharp corners on it or abrasive materials in the car.Actually, its been handy for me because the panels come off really easily to allow me to play with the wiring.

The thing is I put my projects on here in case anyone wants to have a go or to give someone some idea's . Just hope it helps people.

David


Posted

Thanks for the link George,

It makes more sense now. I bought my iQ 2 really on walking into the showroom, seeing it and wanted it there and then. I didn't do any research, What model's etc. Just knew I wanted an Auto and it had Satnav and was white.After starting to modify it to look (cool) and finding this site, I then discovered there was a 1.33 out there in the wild and was 4 cylinder.The lumpy tick over of the 3 cylinder is a small bug bearer with me and was ok about it until discovering there was a 4 cylinder. Re-assuringly though, is that other people either can't feel the difference, and/or prefer the 3cylinder like yourself. The only other issue I have with the car, as with others, is the front seat belts getting trapped in the door frame and the rear one's falling out of their slots.will get around to problem solving them later. I know people are not happy with the plastic trim, But i am very careful when it comes to scuffing, and never put anything with sharp corners on it or abrasive materials in the car.Actually, its been handy for me because the panels come off really easily to allow me to play with the wiring.

The thing is I put my projects on here in case anyone wants to have a go or to give someone some idea's . Just hope it helps people.

David

David, just as a very trivial and almost irrelevant aside..the latest IQs have a special clip fitted to the rear belt mounting which holds the buckle in place, to prevent rattles.

You could probably order a couple from MrT, but really there are plenty of other solutions for that particular problem.

Posted

Thanks for the link George,

It makes more sense now. I bought my iQ 2 really on walking into the showroom, seeing it and wanted it there and then. I didn't do any research, What model's etc. Just knew I wanted an Auto and it had Satnav and was white.After starting to modify it to look (cool) and finding this site, I then discovered there was a 1.33 out there in the wild and was 4 cylinder.The lumpy tick over of the 3 cylinder is a small bug bearer with me and was ok about it until discovering there was a 4 cylinder. Re-assuringly though, is that other people either can't feel the difference, and/or prefer the 3cylinder like yourself. The only other issue I have with the car, as with others, is the front seat belts getting trapped in the door frame and the rear one's falling out of their slots.will get around to problem solving them later. I know people are not happy with the plastic trim, But i am very careful when it comes to scuffing, and never put anything with sharp corners on it or abrasive materials in the car.Actually, its been handy for me because the panels come off really easily to allow me to play with the wiring.

The thing is I put my projects on here in case anyone wants to have a go or to give someone some idea's . Just hope it helps people.

David

David, just as a very trivial and almost irrelevant aside..the latest IQs have a special clip fitted to the rear belt mounting which holds the buckle in place, to prevent rattles.

You could probably order a couple from MrT, but really there are plenty of other solutions for that particular problem.

Hi Johnan,

Araldite springs to mind lol. Thanks for the reply. Haven't really addressed it yet and have read some solutions.I would say the trapped front belt in the door area bugs me the most. I have a vibration in the passengers knee well at idle which is bugging me, but have had all the panels out and its just normal noise from the 3 cylinder engine at idle.It is accentuated by the drum effect of the panelling. there is a fair amount of room up behind the" glove box" so going to look for some baffle material to see if I can dampen it.

David

Posted

David,

As I said in a previous post I got some "seat belt buttons" (those wee rivet like things that you can see fitted to seat belts) and put one in each front belt in a position that holds the buckle nearer to the hole in the B pillar and away from the seat.That solves the belt being caught down beside the seat problem.

On my first IQ I had a buzz or resonant noise coming from the panel where the glove bag hangs and put plastic foam behind it to help prevent the noise.In my case it worked but may have just been lucky!

The foam I put there actually has to be removed to check the condition of the pollen/cabin filter as the foam gets in the way of the access panel.

My foam was not moved so I know MrT did not check the filter condition which is part of the second service, although they said they did.

Naughty MrT.

I do like the 3 cylinder engine and its offbeat thrum.It is a very sophisticated piece of kit and has won awards for its design and construction.I can live with a lumpy tickover although I must say I don't notice it myself inside the car.

J

Posted

David,

As I said in a previous post I got some "seat belt buttons" (those wee rivet like things that you can see fitted to seat belts) and put one in each front belt in a position that holds the buckle nearer to the hole in the B pillar and away from the seat.That solves the belt being caught down beside the seat problem.

On my first IQ I had a buzz or resonant noise coming from the panel where the glove bag hangs and put plastic foam behind it to help prevent the noise.In my case it worked but may have just been lucky!

The foam I put there actually has to be removed to check the condition of the pollen/cabin filter as the foam gets in the way of the access panel.

My foam was not moved so I know MrT did not check the filter condition which is part of the second service, although they said they did.

Naughty MrT.

I do like the 3 cylinder engine and its offbeat thrum.It is a very sophisticated piece of kit and has won awards for its design and construction.I can live with a lumpy tickover although I must say I don't notice it myself inside the car.

J

Hi J

went to MR T and ordered some of those studs, £0.70 each probably plus vat Also took the pic included of a new iQ and the clip you spoke of. I had a good look at it and it is integral with the seat belt. essentially it is the same swivel mount but instead of being dome like it had a cut out and a hook to hold the clip. It looks like a complete new seat belt each side would be needed. Interestingly, the original poke slots are still on the new one. I expect not worth a new moulding.

David

post-109788-0-92098500-1315250205_thumb.

Posted

The thing is I put my projects on here in case anyone wants to have a go or to give someone some idea's . Just hope it helps people.

David

And please keep on doing so... :yes:

Peter

Posted

David,

As I said in a previous post I got some "seat belt buttons" (those wee rivet like things that you can see fitted to seat belts) and put one in each front belt in a position that holds the buckle nearer to the hole in the B pillar and away from the seat.That solves the belt being caught down beside the seat problem.

On my first IQ I had a buzz or resonant noise coming from the panel where the glove bag hangs and put plastic foam behind it to help prevent the noise.In my case it worked but may have just been lucky!

The foam I put there actually has to be removed to check the condition of the pollen/cabin filter as the foam gets in the way of the access panel.

My foam was not moved so I know MrT did not check the filter condition which is part of the second service, although they said they did.

Naughty MrT.

I do like the 3 cylinder engine and its offbeat thrum.It is a very sophisticated piece of kit and has won awards for its design and construction.I can live with a lumpy tickover although I must say I don't notice it myself inside the car.

J

Hi J

went to MR T and ordered some of those studs, £0.70 each probably plus vat Also took the pic included of a new iQ and the clip you spoke of. I had a good look at it and it is integral with the seat belt. essentially it is the same swivel mount but instead of being dome like it had a cut out and a hook to hold the clip. It looks like a complete new seat belt each side would be needed. Interestingly, the original poke slots are still on the new one. I expect not worth a new moulding.

David

Sorry David I should have looked more closely at those new clips tp see if they were separate to the belts.

I fixed the rear belt problem on my old IQ by using those buttons/studs again...I put one in each belt in a position so the buckle dangled well away from any panels when not in use, so could not rattle against anything.

Posted

Hi J

No problem mate, I have ordered 4 of the studs for friday so will do as you say . Top idea. I don't know why my pic didn't get on here on last post but will give it a try again. So on the front one's, where, after fitting the studs does your front seatbelt clip now sit when not in use

David

post-109788-0-14238200-1315305745_thumb.

Posted

Hi J

No problem mate, I have ordered 4 of the studs for friday so will do as you say . Top idea. I don't know why my pic didn't get on here on last post but will give it a try again. So on the front one's, where, after fitting the studs does your front seatbelt clip now sit when not in use

David

David,

I positioned the button/stud so that the buckle would be held up against the slot in the B pillar when not in use, and it is no problem accessing it from there.

post-33806-0-74680200-1315308691_thumb.j

Posted

Thanks J

excellent!!. Looking at the picture i can see your rear one's as well they look like the one's we were talking about with the built in hook. If so how old is your iQ2?

David

Posted

Thanks J

excellent!!. Looking at the picture i can see your rear one's as well they look like the one's we were talking about with the built in hook. If so how old is your iQ2?

David

The one I photographed is about 3 weeks old, hence the "new" clips on the rear belts.I had buttons ready to fit to the belts thinking they would be the same as my old IQ, but not so!

John

Posted

Hi Johnan,

I got the seat buttons but were not as expected.Have a look at the picture. They obviously consists of 2 parts, one half being with a spike to push through the fabric and the other half which has circular spikes to grip the other side of the fabric.The spike goes through to the other side and just does nothing. I can only suppose that you have to use pliers to compress the two halves together to get the spikes to dig into the fabric and mane melt the spike with a soldering iron into a blob to keep the two sides together.I was expecting a one shot clip together which is what the original ones look like.They are described on the packet as "STOPPER TONGUE" 73219-33010.Can you tell me if thats what you got or maybe I have the wrong item.Cheers

David

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