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Centre Consul Display And Switch Back Lights


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Posted

This little project might get expensive. :( But the end results might be worth it. :)

Fish

Just giving you some advice really, It would be terrible to start fitting them and have to keep taking panels back out because one to 2 LED's have failed. It's not only that they can die without warning if suffered too much heat. The technique is minimal time on the pads with the iron.

David

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Posted

David, dont worry I know you mean the best and your advice is always welcome. Looking at Maplins the lowest temp I can get is a 150c, is that ok?

Fish

Posted

Yep. Aim for running at 175deg if using a 0.5-0.7mm tip

Another thing is make sure you get the new ones in eactly the same position as the old because they are sectioned off to illuminate certain area's when the covers are on and some of them have very little tolerance. Oh another thing is the start button, quite a difficult one and delicate, you need to get some very thin bladed inpliments because you have to poke down about 4 gaps at the same time to release the clips to get the red part of the switch off. Now the worrying thing about this one is for you to get the circuit board out you have to de-solder the aerial coil around the head of the switch. EXTREME care here because its easy to damage it when you de-solder the 4 pins. Any damage and your car wont start and if you have to replace this switch, its possible the ECU is married to the eprom inside it and would need MR T to some how reprogramme it and getting the "dead" car to them blah blah

David

Posted

Well off to Maplin's I went and came away £100 lighter. :(

Bought this little solder station, a packet of extra tips ranging from pin point to approx. 3mm blade, solder sucker and nylon tweezers.

Testing the melting temps of the 3 different solders I have at home, the best temp I could find for melting it was around 230c. At 175c it barely warming it up.

I'll start with the interior light first and go from there, but as today is my last working day of the year I think I have some spare time to play about in. ;)

Fish

Posted

Ok that all sounds good. I use 0.5mm solder and its the original with lead in it. Can send you a few metres if you want

David


Posted

David, taking the door handles apart, the LED's are smaller than the centre console units. Did you just use the same as in the console or use a different type?

Thanks

Fish

Posted

I remember asking people on here if their window switches were illuminated. And the answer was no. But i found in pitch dark they glowed orange. On taking them apart i decided to upgrade them to the bigger LED's. Can be seen in daytime now. Do you have a standard CD player or a TNS510

David

Posted

Yes I have the TNS510, sorry I think my last post was a little confusing. On the drivers side door window switches, there's some smaller LED's than the dash/console. Did you replace these smaller LED's with the same units as in the dash/console, or did you use some others?

In the passenger side there's an LED bulb instead of a little square.

Thanks

Fish

Posted

Yes I have the TNS510, sorry I think my last post was a little confusing. On the drivers side door window switches, there's some smaller LED's than the dash/console. Did you replace these smaller LED's with the same units as in the dash/console, or did you use some others?

In the passenger side there's an LED bulb instead of a little square.

Thanks

Fish

Yes there was room to fit the dashboard size LED's in the door switches.. I don't recall the passenger side having a bulb style LED. Can you take a pic? If there was I would have probably sniped it off close to the base of the bulb and soldered the square one in place.

David

Posted

IMG_0981s.jpg

Taken from the pics you sent me.

Fish

Posted

Soooo coool..... daring work David! Complements!

Posted

IMG_0981s.jpg

Taken from the pics you sent me.

Fish

Ha thought thats strange, you have the same thumb as me then i noticed it was me!! From my memory I think the resistor wasn't changed because its 560 ohm which is ok, I reckon I did what I said and sniped it off very close to the bulb leaving the remains of two prongs to solder to.. will go and take it off and get a pic

David

Posted

Ok had a look and as I said I simply cut off the bulb and soldered onto the prongs the cut off corner of the LED is towards the resistor (the green,blue,brown,)thingy

post-109788-0-58246100-1323946689_thumb.

post-109788-0-61728100-1323946710_thumb.

Posted

Thanks for the quick responce. :) Looks like a little tricky one. Fingers crossed.

Fish


Posted

Thanks for the quick responce. :) Looks like a little tricky one. Fingers crossed.

Fish

Childs Play wait til you get inside the TNS510

David

Posted

David, and so the work has started. :)

I've run into a problem though. On the images below (which are from the little console to the left of the TNS510) I've replaced the lower LED's, but I thought that the top 4 looked different. So I replaced a single LED first and tested but it failed to light up. Taking a closer look they are 4 pin LED's over the 2 pin that I have. Could you confirm if I've done the first one correctly?

How it was to start - cirlced in red

IMG_0964s.JPG

After replacing single LED - replaced LED 9, check LED 10

Dash1_Small.JPG

Full sized version

Other than that the doors are done and the centre console. Next will be the TNS510 then the dash if I can work out how to remove it. :(

Thanks

Fish

Posted

Your getting there I remember they are strange ones, as you say the are 4 pin but they were reverse , don't think i took any pics so will have to have a look what I did . may have put 2 in , in reverse to each other and offset them . will look tomorrow . and take pic. When you work on the TNS I'm not sure if my memory's good enough to help but if you get stuck , you might prompt me to remember.The dash comes out easily again its a grab and pull the only things to be careful with are the speed and rev counter needles as these have to be pulled off and re-fitted. Show us a pic of your centre consul.

Dacid

Posted

Your getting there I remember they are strange ones, as you say the are 4 pin but they were reverse , don't think i took any pics so will have to have a look what I did . may have put 2 in , in reverse to each other and offset them . will look tomorrow . and take pic. When you work on the TNS I'm not sure if my memory's good enough to help but if you get stuck , you might prompt me to remember.The dash comes out easily again its a grab and pull the only things to be careful with are the speed and rev counter needles as these have to be pulled off and re-fitted. Show us a pic of your centre consul.

Dacid

Did you say what colour you chose and did you leave the 2 Red Alarm LED's Red?

David

Posted

David, here's the current upgrade. More to come.

Console1_Small.JPG

Console2_Small.JPG

Driver side switches

Driver1_Small.JPG

Passenger side switch

Pass1_Small.JPG

Here's the troublesome airbag/seatbelt warning.

TNS510_Small.JPG

Fish

Posted

Thats very nice I have left my 2 Red dot alarms Red still. Think they are the 2 very small LED's So your just waiting on the top bit. When I get a min hopefully tomorrow. Are you pleased with the Blue? more pleasing to the eye?

David

Posted

I can't quite see what you have done on LED 9, its a bit dark and there is a fair amount solder flux. As I remember, Looking straight on at the circuit board LED's 7,6.10,9 at the top. When you remove the 4 pin LED's , you ignore the top and bottom right on each of the LED positions . They are common track and are not used. All the new LED's have the cut off corner facing downwards. Solder to the left hand side pins only at each position. NOTE keep as close as you can to the un-used right hand side pins without touching them to keep the LED inside the closure See Pic

post-109788-0-78091900-1324214912_thumb.

Posted

OK I see what you're saying. Hopefully tomorrow my iPod wire kit (car kit) will arrive at the stealers, at which point I'll pull it apart again.

On my picture, I've gone across both poles. So with my best steady hand I'll give it a try. If not I see another order going in at the dealers.

Fish

Posted

OK I see what you're saying. Hopefully tomorrow my iPod wire kit (car kit) will arrive at the stealers, at which point I'll pull it apart again.

On my picture, I've gone across both poles. So with my best steady hand I'll give it a try. If not I see another order going in at the dealers.

Fish

The thing is, if you solder across the two top pins and make it one pad and do the same for the bottom two to make the other pad for your LED, you will short out the LED and the circuit via smt transistor and resistor and face a real possibility of destroying the transistor.

After you have removed the 4 pin LED's, take a close look at the right hand side of the 4 pins, you will see a copper track going from top right to bottom right,so if you used the top pins and the bottom pins for your new LED, you can see how there is a short circuit across your new LED.

What did you do with the Red LED's

David

Posted

OK I see what you're saying. Hopefully tomorrow my iPod wire kit (car kit) will arrive at the stealers, at which point I'll pull it apart again.

On my picture, I've gone across both poles. So with my best steady hand I'll give it a try. If not I see another order going in at the dealers.

Fish

The thing is, if you solder across the two top pins and make it one pad and do the same for the bottom two to make the other pad for your LED, you will short out the LED and the circuit via smt transistor and resistor and face a real possibility of destroying the transistor.

After you have removed the 4 pin LED's, take a close look at the right hand side of the 4 pins, you will see a copper track going from top right to bottom right,so if you used the top pins and the bottom pins for your new LED, you can see how there is a short circuit across your new LED.

What did you do with the Red LED's

David

When fitting the iPod Kit, get yourself a "mouse" or some stiff wire to use as one.And work from the where the socket is upwards, its the easiest way. Btw my first lead from the TNS510 to the socket was faulty, the Red right hand audio was broken in the loom. Don't even ask about the trouble I had getting it replaced without MR T wanting to find 5 employee's with iPods or iPhone's to disprove my findings first

David

Posted

I've kept all the LED's I've removed in a little zip bag. :) I'll take a look at the power paths when I remove the unit and go from there.

For the iPod kit, I've got some 3mm solid core cable that I use for cable running. :)

Fish

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