Replacing Brake Pads On Rav 4.2 Pins Stuck

[gav2612]

Hi All,

Just looking for a bit of advice. I finally got round to doing the rear brakes on my wifes 2001 2.0 vvti yesterday. Using a search I found a step by step for the DIY which looked fairly straight forward. The DIY stated that once the caliper was off the mounting bolts and the clips removed from the pad pins then the pins just slip out allowing the pads to be removed. The pins seem to be stuck fast. I have doused them in WD40 and tried loosening them with pliers and hitting the end with a punch and they wont budge. Anything im missing here or are they just rusted solid? The DIY is listed below, the pins that are stuck are the ones that run from the red circles in the picture through the pads to the other side of the caliper

[CharlieFarlie]

Hi All,

Just looking for a bit of advice. I finally got round to doing the rear brakes on my wifes 2001 2.0 vvti yesterday. Using a search I found a step by step for the DIY which looked fairly straight forward. The DIY stated that once the caliper was off the mounting bolts and the clips removed from the pad pins then the pins just slip out allowing the pads to be removed. The pins seem to be stuck fast. I have doused them in WD40 and tried loosening them with pliers and hitting the end with a punch and they wont budge. Anything im missing here or are they just rusted solid? The DIY is listed below, the pins that are stuck are the ones that run from the red circles in the picture through the pads to the other side of the caliper

You have removed the clips that secure the pins ?? If yes do the pins turn in the position they are in ?? If Yes they should come out.....

I always treat the pins to a nice thin coat of copper-slip when re installing to prevent corrosion seizing them in place.. along with the backs and edges of the pads where they contact the calliper..

Your picture does not show bad corrosion quite the opposite in fact.... Wish I was there to help .....

Wee Charlie.

[gav2612]

Hi All,

Just looking for a bit of advice. I finally got round to doing the rear brakes on my wifes 2001 2.0 vvti yesterday. Using a search I found a step by step for the DIY which looked fairly straight forward. The DIY stated that once the caliper was off the mounting bolts and the clips removed from the pad pins then the pins just slip out allowing the pads to be removed. The pins seem to be stuck fast. I have doused them in WD40 and tried loosening them with pliers and hitting the end with a punch and they wont budge. Anything im missing here or are they just rusted solid? The DIY is listed below, the pins that are stuck are the ones that run from the red circles in the picture through the pads to the other side of the caliper

You have removed the clips that secure the pins ?? If yes do the pins turn in the position they are in ?? If Yes they should come out.....

I always treat the pins to a nice thin coat of copper-slip when re installing to prevent corrosion seizing them in place.. along with the backs and edges of the pads where they contact the calliper..

Your picture does not show bad corrosion quite the opposite in fact.... Wish I was there to help .....

Wee Charlie.

Thanks Charlie

Clips have all been removed, but the pins wont turn or budge. The pictures are from the DIY I downloaded, mine are much rustier! I take it I havent missed anything then? Just the pins that are stuck?

Gavin

[CharlieFarlie]

Hi All,

Just looking for a bit of advice. I finally got round to doing the rear brakes on my wifes 2001 2.0 vvti yesterday. Using a search I found a step by step for the DIY which looked fairly straight forward. The DIY stated that once the caliper was off the mounting bolts and the clips removed from the pad pins then the pins just slip out allowing the pads to be removed. The pins seem to be stuck fast. I have doused them in WD40 and tried loosening them with pliers and hitting the end with a punch and they wont budge. Anything im missing here or are they just rusted solid? The DIY is listed below, the pins that are stuck are the ones that run from the red circles in the picture through the pads to the other side of the caliper

You have removed the clips that secure the pins ?? If yes do the pins turn in the position they are in ?? If Yes they should come out.....

I always treat the pins to a nice thin coat of copper-slip when re installing to prevent corrosion seizing them in place.. along with the backs and edges of the pads where they contact the calliper..

Your picture does not show bad corrosion quite the opposite in fact.... Wish I was there to help .....

Wee Charlie.

Thanks Charlie

Clips have all been removed, but the pins wont turn or budge. The pictures are from the DIY I downloaded, mine are much rustier! I take it I havent missed anything then? Just the pins that are stuck?

Gavin

Must be Mate... Time to get heavy and cut them away. Just be careful not to damage the calliper !! just get a new set ready and get the buggers out and remember to coat the new ones with copper slip on re instillation .

Wee Charlie.

[Jamesbelfast]

Try gripping the pins between the pads with a pair of vice griops and see if they'll rotate even slightly. If not drill the heads off and drive then in a bit further using a suitable punch - hopefully that should break the corrosion. It is advisable to renew the pins each time pads are changed.

[gav2612]

Try gripping the pins between the pads with a pair of vice griops and see if they'll rotate even slightly. If not drill the heads off and drive then in a bit further using a suitable punch - hopefully that should break the corrosion. It is advisable to renew the pins each time pads are changed.

Thanks James, will have another go at them later tonight, but tried vice grips on them and couldnt even get a slight movement out of them. Tried using a punch on the far side to knock them back through from the far side, but cutting the heads off and puching them further through will hopefully do the job

Many thanks

Gavin

[anchorman]

I would only cut the off the pins as a last resort. If you undo the caliper, you can remove it complete with the pads (clamp the brake pipe, crack off the nut and turn the caliper off the pipe). Take it to the bench and place the area around the pin on a solid surface before knocking them out. Once they move, keep tapping them back and forth until they loosten up. If you cut off the pins you still have to knock them out and the risk is breaking the caliper casting.

[crofter]

Rust penetrating oil is not instantaneous, perhaps all thats needed is a little patience for it to work.

Del

[CharlieFarlie]

Rust penetrating oil is not instantaneous, perhaps all thats needed is a little patience for it to work.

Del

They sound pretty solid Del... If the calliper castings are aluminium or made of mostly aluminium and the pins are steel You can get a state of galvanic corrosion which is where steel and aluminium can fuse together. Remember Plus Gas ?? A great penetrating oil My Old Man used to use ......

I never replace the pins unless they are corroded or worn.. Don should they be replaced every time ??

Wee Charlie.

[crofter]

Rust penetrating oil is not instantaneous, perhaps all thats needed is a little patience for it to work.

Del

They sound pretty solid Del... If the calliper castings are aluminium or made of mostly aluminium and the pins are steel You can get a state of galvanic corrosion which is where steel and aluminium can fuse together. Remember Plus Gas ?? A great penetrating oil My Old Man used to use ......

I never replace the pins unless they are corroded or worn.. Don should they be replaced every time ??

Wee Charlie.

Plus Gas?

Even the mention of the name brings the smell of it back to me,especially when it hit hot metal,cleared the sinuses out a right treat that did!!

Del

[CharlieFarlie]

Flippin eck Del You can still buy it !!!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLUSGAS-DISMANTLING-LUBRICANT-PLUS-GAS-RUST-500ML-TIN-/400235788406?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d2fe97876#ht_1825wt_1037

Wee Charlie.

[crofter]

Flippin eck Del You can still buy it !!!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLUSGAS-DISMANTLING-LUBRICANT-PLUS-GAS-RUST-500ML-TIN-/400235788406?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d2fe97876#ht_1825wt_1037

Wee Charlie.

Looks like they have done away with the cans with the spout that fell orf when it was glanced at

Seem to remember we bought this by the gallon for some of the rust heaps we had then.

Del

[CharlieFarlie]

Yeh That little spout that used to fold up ........ I might get a tin just for a sniff ,,,,

Wee Charlie.

[crofter]

Yeh That little spout that used to fold up ........ I might get a tin just for a sniff ,,,,

Wee Charlie.

If the EU have anything to do with it,as in HP Sauce,it probably smells like.........(insert preference)

Del

[Bodgit-fixit-run]

I would do the same as Anchorman. remove the caliper and take to a bench.

Mine were corroded in and this shifted them.

I then span them in my lathe and re polished them You can do the same with a hand drill. Just take them back to the shine and coat with Copperslip. I've used the same ones for two changes now. I'll change them for the next change. Another thing to try is very gently hear the calliper Aluminium expands faster than steel. This will help get them started. Don't over do it though otherwise you might damage the seals.

[Jamesbelfast]

The advantage of drilling the heads of the pins is that with a suitable punch you can tap them in either direction - even if the caliper is in the vice.

[Bodgit-fixit-run]

The risk with drilling is being sure you are centre to the head otherwise this can cause to drill to catch the alloy and potentially damage the calliper. I would only drill as a last resort.

[Jamesbelfast]

The risk with drilling is being sure you are centre to the head otherwise this can cause to drill to catch the alloy and potentially damage the calliper. I would only drill as a last resort.

Thta will also depend on how good you are at drilling holes centrally and also there is no need to go as deep as the caliper. The secret is not to use a small a drill - a bigger diamater one will take the domed head of clean. It's similar to drilling out rivets. A slow turning drill works best.

I have used this technique many times with success so have many ship-builders over the past 150 years or more.