Iq Entry Problems

[smiggie balls]

Panicky morning! Went to go out to work this morning and found that the remote lock didn't work, tried unlocking manually and the alarm went off, leaving some vry annoyed neighbours! Bit stuck now, anyone had any experience of this?

I changed the fob Battery with no luck either......

[tarquin]

Hi. Dont know if your up and running now. The manual key entry should have disabled the alarm. Then to start you would have to put the MR T emblem on the key fob up against the start button and press it. Could be the canbus has got its knickers in a twist. I would arm myself with a 10mm spanner, open the car with the manual key open the bonnet and remove the negative side of the Battery. Leave it off for a min and reconnect and try again.

David

[Kip]

My alarm went off too when I tried opening the door manually. I might have have just turned it the wrong way or something but it's still odd.

[jwball]

Do all iQ's have alarms? Shows how little I know, thought mine just had an immobiliser!

[tarquin]

Pull the bonnet catch, lock the car. Wait a min or 2 then prise your fingers in the gap to lift the bonnet. It will derinitley tell you it has an alarm

David

[TRS]

Panicky morning! Went to go out to work this morning and found that the remote lock didn't work, tried unlocking manually and the alarm went off, leaving some vry annoyed neighbours! Bit stuck now, anyone had any experience of this?

I changed the fob battery with no luck either......

Yes, exactly the same thing happened to me a month or so into ownership (i posted on here a the time!). One Sunday morning, went out to the car and couldn't get the remote unlock to work. Went and got the spare key, same. Like you, opened it manually and the alarm went off with no way of stopping it other than shutting the door again. Weighed up whether to call out Club Toyota RAC (what could they do anyway?) and decided I would wait until the next day and call the dealer. Several times went out to the car that day and still nothing from the keyfob. Just before going to bed, leaned out the window pressed the button and hey presto it flashed! Oddly it has never happened again. Have to say though that even now if I lock the car when getting petrol, I always lock it with the key as couldn't face it happening in that sort of situation.

Shortly after I was asked to complete a survey as to how I found all aspects of the IQ and I did report it in that.

[s44gtw]

Not relevant to this,

but the key fob does have 2 locking functions,

press to lock & press/hold to double lock as i remember reading it,

but i have no owners manual or iQ now so can not check exactly what it was.

Can someone read the book please & see what it says?

george

[tarquin]

Not relevant to this,

but the key fob does have 2 locking functions,

press to lock & press/hold to double lock as i remember reading it,

but i have no owners manual or iQ now so can not check exactly what it was.

Can someone read the book please & see what it says?

george

It does do that George, If you use the fob, or touch the stripe area on the door handle, or press the top button on the boot twice all within 2 seconds it dead locks it.

David

[barrycoll]

Having just taken delivery of an 09 IQ2 yesterday, I too find that trying out the manual key-in-lock opening causes the alarm to sound, and can only be stopped by pressing the remote fob button.

Has anybody discovered just how to work around this, as the instruction book gives no hints in this direction, suggesting that it is quite straight forward?????

In regard to taking the negative lead off the Battery for a minute or so, does this not cause the radio to lose its coding???

..............in fact, is there a radio code with these IQ2s, if one needs to replace the Battery itself???

thanks all BarryC.

[tarquin]

Hi Barry

The radio "code" so the radio can be used, is held in the ECU now and not in the radio itself. But it does lose the station settings and if you have satnav it looses the recent locations. But keeps stored phone numbers if you disconnect the Battery.

David

[barrycoll]

Aagh thanks for that David....there was no mention of any code in the Handbook, so that explains it, AND makes life easier..

...do you have any similar explanations for the manual key/alarm problem, as it seems pretty common place??

I tried mine with the spare key this morning, but with the same results....hopefully it will never come to having to use the manual key, but Sods Law, is always in the background....

.............the manual suggests a 2 year life span for the key Battery, and I am wondering if that is top whack, as the one I have bought is 2.5 years old!!

Thanks again BarryC.

[tarquin]

Hi Barry

Come this October my car is 2yrs old.I have 2 keys, ome has a white cover on it and i would think it is the primary used one. So its been im use for that time. I have never used the buttons just use it for proximity. When i find somewhere isolated i will try another method. I will open the door via mechanical key then hold the key up against the start switch to see if it shuts up.

David

[barrycoll]

Thanks for being the guinea pig David.....I tried it this morning, and my neighbour banged her head on the tree she was weeding under....not best pleased!

...and there is always the delay, before you can actually get the keyfob onto the Start/Stop button!

cheers BarryC.

[tarquin]

Ok Barry

Had the opportunity to test the entry and alarm today. I locked the car by fob proximity by having it in my pocket. I removed the key and placed the fob out of range of the car. Checked the handle and it was locked. Put the key in the driverside door and turned it anti- clockwise. It goes clunk and i was able to open the door and no alarm sounded. I sat in it and tried to start it without any luck. The yellow lock key was displayed on the dash. It wouldnt even turn on the first and second stages of the ignition. I wasnt able to test the fob against the start switch theory because my fob is a going concern and i think we need to take the Battery out to test it to simulate what happens if your fob Battery dies over night , can you start the car. Will try it later with the spare fob.

David

[barrycoll]

That is very bad news David.....and doesn't accord with anything written in the Toy. manual

the only reasonable result is that the door actually opened, AND the alarm wasn't activated, but not much use if you can't actually go anywhere!

I imagine that if you do go to the trouble of taking the Battery out, the fob will be inert, and zilch will happen...unless there is a small piece of Kryptonite stuffed in there somewhere....

..........as an aside, I had a retirement job 2 years ago working for a company called www.ecurie25.com, and I was a delivery and pick up driver........this was a super-car company, and my daily fair was Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Aston Martin etc...on one occasion my brief was to deliver a Bentley GTC down to the West country, and this car too is keyless entry...

another emplyee brought the car out of the workshop, and left the engine running while I set up my sat-nav, and did the paper work........as I was driving out of the forecourt (with the roof down!!), I had this sudden realisation that I didn't have the key!!!......aggghh....I could have driven 200miles, and really been in deep poo!!

[tarquin]

Well I think that is what should happen. Its in 2 stages as with normal key fob operations.

Normal key fob.

Should have a mechanical key and be able to disable the alarm. If you only had the metal part then all you could do with it is open and close the central locking and turn the alarm off. you would not be able to start the car.

In a normal key fob, there is the metal key, a 433mhz coded radio transmitter and a transdponder. The metal key is self explanatory .The transmitter is only used normally to remotely open and close the doors and turn the alarm off.It is the coded transponder inside the fob that is offered up to the lock along with the key.The key is inserted and turned. This does two jobs. As it is turned the inert transponder is picked up by the receiver located around the yoke assembly.and powers it by induction (Like proximity cards at the office ). The inert transponder is powered up by the induction and responds with the correct code which is held in the ECU for verification.and gives the all clear to start.The mechanical key is still travelling round switching on the first and second stage ignition finally firing the starter motor and the car starts.

The iQ has a coil around the start switch and a receiver near the centre consul, which needs to either see the fob or close proximity of the fob up against the start switch.My understanding is that if the fob Battery was dead you should be able to enter the car with the mechanical key disabling the alarm and offer up the fob, MR T logo towards the switch, It will induce a voltage into the transponder in the fob which will respond with the right code and when you press the start button ,(which is the same as physically turning the key) in a normal car, it will start.

The reason for taking the Battery out of the spare fob for testing ,is to simulate a dead Battery. Remember, the fob on a IQ will transmit the correct code to the car by either sitting in the car and it is sent automatically or when the fob has a dead battery it needs to get the code from the transponder which has to be close to the start switch to get its induced voltage to respond with the correct code to the ECU and get verified and allow the car to start when you press the start button.If I leave the working battery in the other receiver in the car will respond and allow the car to start when i press the start button.

See clear as Mud!!!

David

[barrycoll]

Wow David........that really IS something, and blows my theory about Kryptonite right out of the water!

you must have a background in electronics, as your understanding is seriously deep, but EXTREMELY helpful....

so it looks like if I can actually get the manual key to de-activate the alarm, then the dead batteried fob WILL do the honours..

all very re-assuring, and thanks a million

all the best Barry

[tarquin]

Wow David........that really IS something, and blows my theory about Kryptonite right out of the water!

you must have a background in electronics, as your understanding is seriously deep, but EXTREMELY helpful....

so it looks like if I can actually get the manual key to de-activate the alarm, then the dead batteried fob WILL do the honours..

all very re-assuring, and thanks a million

all the best Barry

Erm a little knowledge I have a honours degree in electronics and am a Radio and Television broadcast engineer who designs Transmitters.

Still, I haven't tested it yet. Will do it over the weekend You should be able to get in and start your car with just the metal key and a transponder (chip) in the fob. No batteries required as they say.

david

[tarquin]

Wow David........that really IS something, and blows my theory about Kryptonite right out of the water!

you must have a background in electronics, as your understanding is seriously deep, but EXTREMELY helpful....

so it looks like if I can actually get the manual key to de-activate the alarm, then the dead batteried fob WILL do the honours..

all very re-assuring, and thanks a million

all the best Barry

Erm a little knowledge I have a honours degree in electronics and am a Radio and Television broadcast engineer who designs Transmitters.

Still, I haven't tested it yet. Will do it over the weekend You should be able to get in and start your car with just the metal key and a transponder (chip) in the fob. No batteries required as they say.

david

That is why fob losses can be expensive, First the company has to cut a key to the lock and if the serial number on the metal tag on a ring with the fob is lost with the key it could mean new locks Then they have to code the transponder and ECU and code the RF remote code with the ECU and of course supply the fob as well. I think the high price MR T wanted was because its a ballpark figure in case the serial number for the key is unknown and new locks may have been required and the labour of fitting them.

Note it is best to keep the little tag on the small ring thats with each key separate from the key. Could save you lots of money

David

[barrycoll]

with that explanation, the 'crazy' costs almost make sense...

I will definitely leave the small serial number tag on the second key, and guard it with my life

your knowledge makes me quite jealous David, as I have just wasted my working life repairing teeth...possibly akin to Sweet Dentist!

well thats one worry about the car, that has a satisfactory conclusion....

I actually still have doubts about this IQ2 that I took delivery of this week....it was bought from a dealer in KIngs Lynn, sight unseen (other than photos, and a description)....March 09, with 6k miles, and CVT and leather, chrome and parking sensors, but when the car was delivered, the service book showed no entries, except the service the dealer did pre-sale...there is no PDI details, and no mention of of one and two year services.........in principle the car has had no warranty with no service book

the dealer has said that this is all just an "oversight", and will be corrected, but there is no knowledge of who supplied the car, or who the first owner was...

when washed, the side windows always come up wet when dropped down, which means there must be retained water in the door casings, which might mean that the car has been in an accident, as the drain holes are free..

.and the mini compressor and sealant were missing from the back compartment, which may indicate bodyshop involvement.....

but also a hopeless pre sale preparation for me............I think that all I got was a power wash, and tyre black!!

maybe £7,700 was the right/wrong price........

ah well.........we will see

cheers to all BarryC.

[tarquin]

with that explanation, the 'crazy' costs almost make sense...

I will definitely leave the small serial number tag on the second key, and guard it with my life

your knowledge makes me quite jealous David, as I have just wasted my working life repairing teeth...possibly akin to Sweet Dentist!

well thats one worry about the car, that has a satisfactory conclusion....

I actually still have doubts about this IQ2 that I took delivery of this week....it was bought from a dealer in KIngs Lynn, sight unseen (other than photos, and a description)....March 09, with 6k miles, and CVT and leather, chrome and parking sensors, but when the car was delivered, the service book showed no entries, except the service the dealer did pre-sale...there is no PDI details, and no mention of of one and two year services.........in principle the car has had no warranty with no service book

the dealer has said that this is all just an "oversight", and will be corrected, but there is no knowledge of who supplied the car, or who the first owner was...

when washed, the side windows always come up wet when dropped down, which means there must be retained water in the door casings, which might mean that the car has been in an accident, as the drain holes are free..

.and the mini compressor and sealant were missing from the back compartment, which may indicate bodyshop involvement.....

but also a hopeless pre sale preparation for me............I think that all I got was a power wash, and tyre black!!

maybe £7,700 was the right/wrong price........

ah well.........we will see

cheers to all BarryC.

Hi barry you are far too modest

root canal =!00w fm stereo broadcast transmitter lol

Mine was late 2009 @12,000miles with satnav All the rest i fitted myself 18inch wheels,, Designer exhaust, K&N filter, even did the the leather upholstery conversion and of course all the LED mods. Keeps me off the street. was £9000 from MR T. was yours MR T or independent garage? There are some good people on here who know what your rights are and can advise. The previous owners name should be on the V5 log book

David

[barrycoll]

Yes, David, mine was a genuine dealer....spotted the car on Autotrader

When the car was delivered, it lacked seat hight adjuster (as advertised), and as mentioned previously, zero service history in the Book..

I was tempted to send the car back, and forget about it, but when I phoned the dealer, they sounded quite nervous, as they were worried about being 'done' for misrepresentation....asked me what I would like to do, so I cheekily said deduct £500 and its a deal....they came back with an offer of £300 off, and I thought well thats getting better!..

now I notice a poor fitting panel gap just behind the o/s front wheel, but no overspray....the steering doesnt pull in any direction, but do You notice that when on the motorway, the steering is 'sticky' around the straight ahead position, but not at 30mph....maybe a safety feature to stop the more dozy folk from wandering off the lane??

...........or a feature of a poorly repaired accident?????????

cheers BarryC.

[tarquin]

Yes, David, mine was a genuine dealer....spotted the car on Autotrader

When the car was delivered, it lacked seat hight adjuster (as advertised), and as mentioned previously, zero service history in the Book..

I was tempted to send the car back, and forget about it, but when I phoned the dealer, they sounded quite nervous, as they were worried about being 'done' for misrepresentation....asked me what I would like to do, so I cheekily said deduct £500 and its a deal....they came back with an offer of £300 off, and I thought well thats getting better!..

now I notice a poor fitting panel gap just behind the o/s front wheel, but no overspray....the steering doesnt pull in any direction, but do You notice that when on the motorway, the steering is 'sticky' around the straight ahead position, but not at 30mph....maybe a safety feature to stop the more dozy folk from wandering off the lane??

...........or a feature of a poorly repaired accident?????????

cheers BarryC.

Hi barry

Firstly, when I picked mine up, the driver side rear panel where it meets the rear light cluster and bumper, the panel was proud by about 1/4 inch with no sign of tamper. I tried gingerly to push it back but couldn't and so thought it might be a tab held with a bolt that needed loosening then re-tightening..On a trip back to the dealer I pointed it out to him. He said the trouble is nearly all the panels are clip in and under curtain conditions like BIG bumps they have been known to spring out. He went up to it and gave it a heavy duty push and it clipped back in place. Hasn't come out again since.So maybe you want to have a look at yours.

The issue with the steering. I would say that the iQ has very positive responsive steering. I have 215 width wheels on mine and that has enhanced it. I do get some 'Tram line " effect , like when lorries have put a groove in the road over time, the car kinda tries to follow them. I have a peugeot 406 as well S reg You can drive at 70mph and rock the steering wheel left and right by a fair way and it still drives straight. Lots of play but normal.With the iQ it becomes more stable as speed increases. It is part of the algorithm in the software. I f you think its not right, check that your car has had its steering recall done as part of it was a software update for the steering and if found out of calibration the steering rack was meant to be changed.

David

[tarquin]

I think mine was advertised as having height adjuster but don't think it does. I assume it is a twirly handle or something.

David

[johnan]

I think mine was advertised as having height adjuster but don't think it does. I assume it is a twirly handle or something.

David

David,

Just for your information, this is what the height adjuster looks like.

It is the longer of the two levers.

The shorter one is for the angle of the backrest, as before.

John