Soeleys Iq

[craggle]

Cheers Mark

I always thought the tyres looked too far set inside the arches but they seem much better placed.

Tempting, very tempting...... :)

Think I'd have to have silver wheels on my silver car, not sure about black ones on there?

Craig.

[craggle]

Try getting in touch with http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/, that is where I ordered mine from, to see what they say. They were very helpful.

Well, Contacted Motorsport world today and got a very speedy response from them. It seems that Eibach make one set of springs for the petrol models and one for the Diesel models.

All the specs and axle weights on the 1.0 and the 1.3 models are within Eibach design limits for axle loading (same on all the petrol cars) and only the Diesel gets a different part. They speculated that Diesel ones might be physically different in the way they fit but as we don't get them in the UK, hard to tell.

Anyway, News is that they have confirmed that the springs I have will be fine on the iQ3 so long as they fit so, game on..... :)

Cheers for your help Mark

Craig.

[Soeley]

How strange :o

I have just checked my Despatch Note from MSW and I have the 1.4D springs Part N^o 10-82-034-02-22. The 1ltr is Part N^o 10-82-034-01-22.

Also PI and SPAX both list the same Part N^o for 1.33 and 1.4D

So, at least I can confirm the 1.4D springs do fit the 1.33 :)

[craggle]

Yeah, The more I read the Ibach paperwork and the website the more I'm thinking that too!

I'll contact Ibach UK on Monday and see if they can confirm either way. Axle loadings seem to be the same for all models but according to the Ibach paperwork the front springs for the Diesel model and 1.3 petrol are 0.25mm bigger wire diameter, they are 6mm longer and have another 1/4 of a turn in the coil.

I won't fit them just yet.

Craig.

[craggle]

Sorry to keep filling up your thread but made a decision. I'm going to order a new set of 1.4D Eibach springs on Monday then I can compare the difference and fit the correct ones.

I know I'm not supposed to advertise on this forum but if anyone out there has a 1.0 model and fancies a nice new, in the box, lowering spring kit I may just know know someone who has a set available at a reasonable price. :)

Craig.

[Soeley]

Hey Craig, no problem. That's why we are here, to "Chew the fat" ;)

[DFish]

Oi!!!! I'm meant to be on a spending freeze! I dont need any temptations at the moment thank you. ;)

Fish

[Soeley]

I took some better pictures with my camera (not phone), the wheels show up much better.

[aaronfife]

Your IQ looks excellent. Well done on making it subtle but tasteful.

Craig got rid of his Eibach springs to me so looking forward to some much needed lowerage. How do they perform out of curiosity?

[tarquin]

It looks really good Mark. Think the red suits it well. Will have to stard using my camera instead of the iPhone. Its ok in normal ligjt but you cant take pics if healights or DRL's. Or blue lights it just saturates it

David

[Soeley]

Your IQ looks excellent. Well done on making it subtle but tasteful.

Craig got rid of his Eibach springs to me so looking forward to some much needed lowerage. How do they perform out of curiosity?

Thanks Aaron, with the springs yo get less body roll. The ride over normal roads doesn't differ too much (they're not overly harsh on the ride, but potholes do feel harder (not always easy to avoid them all) :o

It looks really good Mark. Think the red suits it well. Will have to stard using my camera instead of the iphone. Its ok in normal ligjt but you cant take pics if healights or DRL's. Or blue lights it just saturates it

David

Camera phones are just too convenient aren't they.

What to do next

[DFish]

Very nice, what size are they?

Fish

[Soeley]

The wheels are 17" with 205/45/17 tyres on, the offset is just right as the front wheels are now flush with the arch.

[surfcitylocal]

I like the look very much. The first Panda iQ. I am a huge fan of black and white.

[craggle]

Don't worry though, Although Aaron will be receiving my 1.0 Eibach springs in the post this week I have ordered a set of 1.3 iQ springs from Eibach so I will still be going lower pretty soon too. :)

Craig.

[Soeley]

Ok, I've been a little bit busy lately so thought I would share with you what I've been up to.

I decided to add a couple of auxiliary fuse boxes to make things simple for future additions, and this means only one main cable going through the bulkhead to the Battery.

One fuse box is permanent live the other ignition live switched via relay. Both fuse boxes have a +ve bus.

What I used to build it all on was simply a plastic board, this was made from an A4 clipboard that cost £1.99.

First build

Once I knew where it was going I trimmed it to suit

Making use of one of the spare grommets behind the passenger side knee panel. (The blue wire is going to the front side light circuit for my next project.)

Mounting it here I was able to make use of the existing top left bolt and just needed a 40mm spacer, 60mm long M6 bolt and 6mm spire nut for the botton right corner.

The relay takes its switching feed from the back of the cigarette lighter. The permanent fuse box has a maximum capacity of 40amps, whilst the ignition live fuse box is limited to 30amps due to it being powered through a 30amp relay. The wire to the Battery is able to take 80amps. Having said that I don't ever see me using all eight fuses to their maximum.

As you can see I have already used one of each of them for the Power Max Pro (little black box just below the new fuse panel) that powers my BlackView camera.

[tarquin]

Mark

You must be a contortionist to have taken such a good picture of the bulkhead grommet !!!

Excellent work and very neat wiring. Where did you fit the other 5 Batteries !!!?

No, a really good distribution system. I have one using power switching transistors (contact less). As the transistors are switched hard on they don't dissipate much head so small heat sink.

Anyway excellent work

David

[Soeley]

Cheers David, I appreciate that coming from someone with you expertise, thank you.

lol, the grommet on the drivers side is much, much easier to get to than the drivers side (RH drive version).

[Soeley]

Moving on from my auxiliary fuse boxes (this is what actually spurred me on to fit them). Ever since having my old Mini I have always missed the Smiths gauges, I used to have four of them fitted in the dash, Volts, Amps, Vacuum and Oil Pressure.

I’d been thinking about them for a while and bought a Smiths Volt meter with magnolia face and a twin gauge giving Water Temperature and Oil Pressure. So where to fit them, without having boy racer Pods stuck on the dash? Nothing wrong with that if you have a race or rally themed car.

So, just going off pictures from the internet I bought the heater control panel for the manual Air Con model. I was going to drill my existing panel and make some bosses with a curve on them to match the panel, but with the bought panel being £50 +vat I opted for the easy option.

The heater switch holes proved to be just too big for the 52mm gauges, so a small adaptor ring was needed, a bought two plastic washers used for plumbing that were the correct outside diameter. Luckily I had a bearing drift the correct size to cut around to get the required inside diameter.

This look I wasn’t too keen on and couldn’t find my black sticky vinyl to cover them with. I then remembered my trepanning tool I made as an apprentice, so I got what was left from my A4 clipboard (remember my Auxiliary Fuse Boxes?) and set to with my trepanner.

I screwed the clipboard to a piece of wood and drilled a ¼” pilot hole to suit the tool and cut the inside diameter first.

Then reset the tool and cut the outside diameter

And there you have it a nice perfect fit spacer

Here it is just under the gauge bezel

After that was my big heart stopping moment.

Spot the difference?

Yes, the V-panel is a different shape between the Auto Air Con and the Manual Air Con, Arrgggghhhhhhh!!

As seen as I was so far in I thought I might as well cut it to suit, can’t take it back now!!!

Luckily I got it right first cut. I just lay my panel on top of the new one and scribed round it with a pencil. But it does mean I have now lost the two lower plastic locating clips, but it seems to be held in ok, the bottom of the V panel is not loose or flapping about and no rattles.

I did however have to take the V panel apart and just trim a little bit out to clear the chrome bezel of the top gauge, but you can’t see that when it’s all back together.

Here is the finished look. The Volt meter is at the top with lower gauge for Oil Pressure and Water Temperature.

The bulbs that illuminate the gauge are the small cap less wedge bulbs and I painted one with some Amber bulb paint (two coats) I think this gives the illumination a very good match to the original amber instrument lighting in the car. The lower gauge still has the clear bulb in, which will also be getting two coats of Amber paint.

And finally a short video showing Battery voltage with ignition on (first position), then you will see the voltage drop as the engine cranks and then settle to about 13v with the engine running. Don't know why Photobucket has rotated it?

[tarquin]

Mark

Thats outstanding! Love seeing engineering at work and resourcefulness . If it was the "look" you were wanting then you have done a superb job, Congratulations Maybe you want to show the connections for the water Temp and Oil pressure locations on the car

David

[Soeley]

Ah, yes. In my haste to post I forgot to mention that I am still awaiting the adapters to arrive for the Temp and Pressure gauge, both of these work by capillary tube, not electronic.

Thank you for your comments though ;)

Ideally I would have preferred the Volt meter to be a little bit lower away from the bottom of the V panel, but I am very happy with it :)

[StPatricks]

Mark thanks for the reply and the link; you are certainly ringing the changes but it does make your iQ stand out very nice!

[Soeley]

Thanks for the positive comments

[Soeley]

Small update to the Auxiliary Fuse Box. With my recent thread "Power Spikes" http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/142309-power-spikes/ . I realised the power from the Battery was not stable enough for the sensitive electrics on the BlackVue camera. I bought a voltage regulator, simple two wires in +ve and -ve and two wires out +ve and -ve. It is designed to take an input voltage from between 8 volts and 40 volts and make it a steady 12 volts output (6 amp 72 watt).

Since connecting this up my BlackVue camera has behaved again and I can now have it on 'Parking Mode' whilst away from the car.

[Soeley]

The other week I went along to Demon Tweeks and had a bespoke CAT back PowerFlow stainless steel exhaust fitted. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/exhaust-systems/powerflow-bespoke-stainless-steel-exhaust-fitting

Really happy with it, you get to choose what tail pipe you want and how loud you want it. Not much to see really from outside but a couple of pics any way.

It now has a nice sound, no louder when at a steady cruising speed, but under acceleration it sounds really nice.

The exhaust come with an owners lifetime guarantee.