Soeleys Iq

[Heathie]

Hi Soeley, Can I ask how much it cost and how long did it take?

I ve been looking at a Stainless Vortex System but they cost £500.

[Soeley]

Heathie, I to looked at the Vortex £500 system and after seeing some YouTube videos, i decided it sounded rubbish, almost like one of those joke whistlers you get from the joke shop to push up the tail pipe.

I had also looked at this one http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/ProductItem-3194.aspx which at nearly £800 is an absolute joke in my opinion.

The Vortex at £500 was a better price, but whistled too much.

Demon Tweeks, upon arriving I picked out a tail pipe and had a discussion with the fitter (which took about about 1/2 hour in total) he then worked out a proper estimate based on measurements and tailpipe selection. Told me the price to make sure I still wanted it and then they set to work. It took them about 2.5 hours to cut, bend and weld it all up and take it for a quick test drive. They didn't use the original exhaust as a template. The new one runs straighter under the car and doesn't run up under the boot floor and back down like the original.

Cost? I hear you asking. I was quoted over the phone between £300 and £350.

It actually cost £315

The only slight negative is they had to cut the flange off the original and use that, as they said "we can't get hold of Toyota flanges, but it is still covered by full lifetime guarantee".

I did keep the original exhaust, as I plan on refitting that when I eventually change my iQ (at this moment in time it will be for another iQ, so S/S system will be swapped over).

[Heathie]

thanks Soeley,

I have spoke to David @ Demon Treeks today and will probably book mine in next month as I have just had my IQ lowered yesterday by 35mm all round, its fantastic to drive now and feels like a diferent car but still confy.

[Soeley]

Nice one, which spring did you get? I went for the Eibach 35mm rear/25mm front. They really do loose some of the body roll without affecting ride comfort too much at all.

[Heathie]

Hi Soeley,

They are VMaxx Sprigs from DC Performance, the handling is fantastic and the comfort still realy good.

[Heathie]

Oh, it looks cool now got the correct stance

[Soeley]

I decided to treat my self to a Scan Gauge II, only cost me £18 (mind you I did have £100 Amazon vouchers from work, and couldn't think what else to spend them on)

First dilemma was where to mount it?

or

or

Nah, none of the above. So I decided to.....

Finished view

When I get around to it I will make some infill pieces at the ends, to hopefully finish it off and hide the wire.

It just slots in there nicely and only needed a strip of rubber to make it fit snugly.

When it comes round to MOT/Service time it'll just pop out. I'd be interested to see where others have fitted them.

[tarquin]

Very nice install Mark. Heads up display next He He

David

[tarquin]

Mine is kind of portable, Its a module that fits in the OBD11 socket and is wireless to my iPhone and runs an app with all the info

David

[Soeley]

Cheers David, I did look at those but no apps available for Widows phone yet. First run it measured 0-60 in 11.2 seconds, but I didn't have the best start.

[tarquin]

Ha that will probably be 23 seconds in my auto

David

[surfcitylocal]

Very nice location for the install.

[Soeley]

Cheers Taz.

[bobkneale]

Very impressive bit of installation work !

[S2Sosmart]

Silly question, but why would it have to come out for the MOT ??

Surely if its well secured and fitted correctly it wouldn't be a problem ?

Si

[Soeley]

Silly question, but why would it have to come out for the MOT ??

Surely if its well secured and fitted correctly it wouldn't be a problem ?

Si

I'm not sur it the MOT inspector will want to see the Seat Belt and Air Bag lights that are in the panel behind the Scangauge? If they do then, it simply pops out for MOT day ;)

[Soeley]

What next? Puddle lights I decided to go for.

Bought these off eBay £12 from Hong Kong including P&P.

They are wired up to my interior lights so come on and off when the door is opened.

First off remove the door panel (I followed Taz's super guide on how to do this )

Here is the Puddle Light

Small hole saw comes included with the price.

Fitted, view from inside the panel.

All I needed to do then was feed the wire through one of the existing cuts in the door liner and feed it through the door grommet to the car interior.

This is all you see from the bottom of the door panel.

How does it look?

[Soeley]

Remember those Smiths gauges I fitted back in October, Volts, Oil Pressure/Water Temp?

Well I just got round to connecting the Water Temp gauge (Volts was done at the time off fitting).

My big concern was getting the sensor bulb through the bulkhead as it is quite big, it is fitted to the gauge so cannot be removed and fitted from the other end. To give an idea of size the brass nut is 21mm A/F.

Anyway I explored the grommet behind the LH knee panel and found their is more room around where the loom goes through than first thought. So a poke through with a small screwdriver to make a small hole to get things started. Then I knew I'd struggle getting the bulb through and racked my brains and came up with this:

A sealant tube nozzle, wasn't the same thread but being soft plastic it bit on to the bulb sensor :) a quick squirt with some WD40 and it slipped through the rubber grommet like a knife through butter without tearing it. Excellent!

Then all I had to do was cut the radiator top hose, insert the connector and screw the bulb in to place, job done.

[Soeley]

PS

I do intend refitting the sensor to the engine block when I can get hold of a 'T' adaptor so I can keep the original sensor and use the auxiliary one together, as where the reading comes from now is not a true engine coolant temperature.

[surfcitylocal]

Excellent engineering there. I'll be looking forward to your TEE adapter location, that and the oil TEE seem to be difficult to locate over here.

[Soeley]

Well I am pleased to say my iQ went in for a service and MOT last Wednesday and passed, nothing needed doing apart from replacing the pollen filter (which just happened to be on offer at £29). Still got 8mm on the brake pads (12mm at new) so at 30,000 miles that is pretty good going to say I don't go on the motorway that often.

Got an advisory on the exhaust, they said it is blowing ever so slightly at the flange and catching on the rear axle? Not sure about the last bit as I'm sure I'd have heard it banging going over bumps? Anyway I have booked in to go back to Demon Tweaks and let them check it out, as it does have a lifetime guarantee with them. I will report back when I have been on the 24th.

[aaronfife]

Only 8mm on your brake pads at 30k?? Lucky you!! I'm on 26k and replaced mine a few months ago, only had about 3mm on them so just replaced them whilst I was there. As for the exhaust, is it a standard item you have on yours again? My standard one looks very rusty from mid section to back box.. can see it lasting not much more than the majority of this year :(

[Soeley]

The exhaust is a stainless steel custom made one from Demon Tweaks with lifetime guarentee.

My commute takes in 27 miles of back roads each way, I tend to use my gears for breaking on approach to bends and accelerate out of them :o

[tarquin]

I have done 32k still got 8mm. No idea why as they are always being used having a multidrive

David

[Soeley]

When I saw these I just had to have them. I thought they
looked just right and the Toyota fog lights are useless in the fog, so nothing
to lose there.

The lights in question are made by Osram and go by the name “LEDriving
Fog Lights” (Part No. LEDFOG101). For Toyota fitment an additional fitting kit
is required (LEDriving FOG TY MOUNT) consisting of a different bracket and
chrome bezel.

First picture is one of the Osram lamps (with STD fitting) with
the Toyota fitting kit.

You can see the difference in the brackets.

This is the wiring kit that comes with the lights, basically
there is a Battery +ve, 2x Battery –ve, side light connection, fog light
connection, an ignition +ve and two wires that go to each side for indicators
(not permitted in the UK) these allow the Fog Light to blink with the
indicators (Assistant cornering they call it) also if the Hazard lights are
used the DRL’s blink with them.

Standard bracket on left, Toyota fitting on the right.

Standard Toyota Fog Light.

Front bumper removed and a view of the Toyota Fog Light from
the rear. They are only held in with one screw which I thought was amazing
really.

Top is the Toyota Fog Light with the Osram LEDriving DRL beneath.

And with the chrome bezel fitted from the Toyota fitting
kit.

You are supplied with a dummy connector for one of the original
fog light connectors, as only one is required to connect to the control box.

Safely tucked away.

Here is the control box on the right, going to the left
under the slam panel are the connectors to the Osram lights. To the right is
the rest of the wiring and the connector that goes to the Fog Light harness
socket.

New Fog Light connectors.

Connection to the Fog Light Harness.

Excess cable tucked away.

Back of the front bumper with Osram Fog Lights fitted and
cabling cable tied to the lower grill going left to right.

Tada, new LEDriving Fog DRL fitted.

The two wires not connected to the indicators folded and
heat shrink sleeve covered.

DRL’s on.

Up close.

Couple of links:

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/automotive-lamps/automotive-cars/led-exterior-lighting/ledriving-fog/index.jsp

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/automotive-lamps/automotive-cars/led-exterior-lighting/ledriving-fog/index.jsp