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Battery R.i.p.


firemac
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Our 5-dr appears to be spinning over a bit slower than normal these past few mornings. I suspect that as the Battery (Furukawa) is the original and is now 9+ years old, it may be giving us advance warning of imminent failure. It was my plan to replace it with another Furukawa but I've just spoken to my local Toyota dealer who will sell me a Toyota own brand with 3-yr warranty for £49.00 + VAT.

He tells me these are made by Varta so should be OK. Also, would the Battery from the diesel RAV fit? I believe it is a heavier-duty unit but Mr. T says it won't fit our petrol car. Can any RAV-ers give me some advice on this?

Thanks

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I buy my batteries from Vauxhall, they are rebadged Delco Premiums.

I just bought a 70aH (about £83 inc the VAT) (think it fits the petrol V6's) and it was actually a little too big for my 4.2, the RAV4 power cable has a big mounting block on it and quite a short lead, making it very tight to fit, and a lot of wiggling and swearing later I finally got it fitted.

I'd go for the next physical size down next time.

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The diesel Battery needs to be bigger to be able to churn over the lump. The petrol engined Battery version seems to one of the smallest.

If you search on this forum section, theres been a lot of discussion on batteries. At the end of the day, you get what you pay for.... Battery capacity by way of AH will give you a chance to compare.

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These Battery chargers may still be available in some Aldi stores.

http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/offers/special_buys3_20978.htm

I bought one last year and they have very similar charging technology to £50+ chargers.

I found it useful to keep the Battery fully charged when the temperature got down to -15C, especially if I was not using the car much.

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These battery chargers may still be available in some Aldi stores.

http://www.aldi.co.u...buys3_20978.htm

I bought one last year and they have very similar charging technology to £50+ chargers.

I found it useful to keep the battery fully charged when the temperature got down to -15C, especially if I was not using the car much.

Agree and I've got two Optimates monted in the garage, one keeps the 'blade's Battery warm whilst the other is only used on the car in desperately cold conditions such as last winter. However, it isn't really practical when you are away from home or for my (much) better half as she has no idea how to use it. If I left it on overnight I have no doubt she would simply drive off scattering cables & crocodile clips in her wake.

At the end of the day there is no substitute for a sound Battery and as this one is now nearly 9 1/2 years old, I reckon a new can't be far off. I am concerned to fit the best possible given the restricted location in the RAV hence my question about the diesel-spec Battery fitting in the petrol car.

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I am concerned to fit the best possible given the restricted location in the RAV hence my question about the diesel-spec battery fitting in the petrol car.

I'm pretty sure I've read that this is indeed the case - seem to remember reading that it involved reversing the clamp or fixing to allow for the larger size.

I believe Big Kev showed Anchorman how to do it :yes:.

Would be worth PMing one of them. Try Anchorman first, Big Kev wants golf balls whereas Anchs advises for free :thumbsup:

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I am concerned to fit the best possible given the restricted location in the RAV hence my question about the diesel-spec battery fitting in the petrol car.

Physically it will fit in the tray and the clamps are adjustable. However the power cable simply won't reach.

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I am concerned to fit the best possible given the restricted location in the RAV hence my question about the diesel-spec battery fitting in the petrol car.

Physically it will fit in the tray and the clamps are adjustable. However the power cable simply won't reach.

I also had a Battery which I took from an Astra oil burner before scrapping it and had the same problem with the RAV and overcame it with a piece of copper pipe about four inches long,flattened then bent in the middle to make what looked like a right angle bracket.Drilled a hole in each end and fitted it between the plastic block and Battery post.

This, obviously,turned the block so the cable fixed to it came out at the front which gave me enough slack to reconnect

I did wonder initially,if a right angle copper bend flattened would make a neater job but didn't have one and wanted the car back on the road.

Been like that a while now and no probs.

So,simple and it works.

Del

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Not sure why people are saying things about cables not reaching etc.

I fitted a Halfords diesel Battery to my petrol RAV 4.2 with no problems at all, just reverse the positions of the hooks on the tie rods and it drops straight in, all cables connected back up with no trouble at all.

Phil

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Here is my 70aH Delco Premium.

The brackets are set at their maximum by using the outer hook/eye mounts at the bottom and the outer mounts for the clamps at the top. Note the handles can't be down in this configuration.

Whilst the cable strain is not totally obvious to the point the cables are stretched at the connectors and at risk of damage should the Battery move whilst driving; the Power cable is tight enough that the red +ve cover can no longer be fitted, and the distribution block is fitted at an angle.

It fits, but can't be any bigger, and took about 30 minutes to install.

The Battery is shoved to the far right of the Battery tray to make the power cable and the rigid right-angled part of the distribution block reach, and some of the sleeving that is clamped near to the suspension bell housing needed to be loosened and moved to give more slack.

100_0427.jpg

100_0428.jpg

EDIT: In fact, seeing those pictures again I'm going to redo that because it was done at the roadside on Saturday and I'm not happy with it.

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Here is my 70aH Delco Premium.

The brackets are set at their maximum by using the outer hook/eye mounts at the bottom and the outer mounts for the clamps at the top. Note the handles can't be down in this configuration.

Whilst the cable strain is not totally obvious to the point the cables are stretched at the connectors and at risk of damage should the battery move whilst driving; the Power cable is tight enough that the red +ve cover can no longer be fitted, and the distribution block is fitted at an angle.

It fits, but can't be any bigger, and took about 30 minutes to install.

The battery is shoved to the far right of the battery tray to make the power cable and the rigid right-angled part of the distribution block reach, and some of the sleeving that is clamped near to the suspension bell housing needed to be loosened and moved to give more slack.

100_0427.jpg

100_0428.jpg

EDIT: In fact, seeing those pictures again I'm going to redo that because it was done at the roadside on Saturday and I'm not happy with it.

Bob that is exactly the problem I faced and I was worried that any tight cables may be subject to extra strain which may be effected by engine movement.

May I suggest that you disconnect the box from the Battery post clamp and turn it 90 degrees anti clockwise to see if

that helps at all and if so make a link between the two to connect them back together.

Del

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Here is my 70aH Delco Premium.

The brackets are set at their maximum by using the outer hook/eye mounts at the bottom and the outer mounts for the clamps at the top. Note the handles can't be down in this configuration.

Whilst the cable strain is not totally obvious to the point the cables are stretched at the connectors and at risk of damage should the battery move whilst driving; the Power cable is tight enough that the red +ve cover can no longer be fitted, and the distribution block is fitted at an angle.

It fits, but can't be any bigger, and took about 30 minutes to install.

The battery is shoved to the far right of the battery tray to make the power cable and the rigid right-angled part of the distribution block reach, and some of the sleeving that is clamped near to the suspension bell housing needed to be loosened and moved to give more slack.

100_0427.jpg

100_0428.jpg

EDIT: In fact, seeing those pictures again I'm going to redo that because it was done at the roadside on Saturday and I'm not happy with it.

Bob that is exactly the problem I faced and I was worried that any tight cables may be subject to extra strain which may be effected by engine movement.

May I suggest that you disconnect the box from the Battery post clamp and turn it 90 degrees anti clockwise to see if

that helps at all and if so make a link between the two to connect them back together.

Del

Would fitting one of THESE give the extra cable reach required?

EDIT - here's one with a fuse link LINK

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Not sure why people are saying things about cables not reaching etc.

I fitted a Halfords diesel battery to my petrol RAV 4.2 with no problems at all, just reverse the positions of the hooks on the tie rods and it drops straight in, all cables connected back up with no trouble at all.

Phil

Hi Phil.

Nice to hear not everyone has trouble fitting a different Battery.Why not post which one you fitted as it may help others if they want to change theirs.

As I am sure you are aware the are many sizes of Battery both physical and capacity wise,but Bob is trying to fit one that he already has.

Del

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Here is my 70aH Delco Premium.

The brackets are set at their maximum by using the outer hook/eye mounts at the bottom and the outer mounts for the clamps at the top. Note the handles can't be down in this configuration.

Whilst the cable strain is not totally obvious to the point the cables are stretched at the connectors and at risk of damage should the battery move whilst driving; the Power cable is tight enough that the red +ve cover can no longer be fitted, and the distribution block is fitted at an angle.

It fits, but can't be any bigger, and took about 30 minutes to install.

The battery is shoved to the far right of the battery tray to make the power cable and the rigid right-angled part of the distribution block reach, and some of the sleeving that is clamped near to the suspension bell housing needed to be loosened and moved to give more slack.

100_0427.jpg

100_0428.jpg

EDIT: In fact, seeing those pictures again I'm going to redo that because it was done at the roadside on Saturday and I'm not happy with it.

Bob that is exactly the problem I faced and I was worried that any tight cables may be subject to extra strain which may be effected by engine movement.

May I suggest that you disconnect the box from the Battery post clamp and turn it 90 degrees anti clockwise to see if

that helps at all and if so make a link between the two to connect them back together.

Del

Would fitting one of THESE give the extra cable reach required?

As I see it Bob that would seem to move the block further away and make the whole assembly wider and as the cables run more or less under the Battery would not that make the cables even tighter if you could get it to fit?

Del

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Here is my 70aH Delco Premium.

The brackets are set at their maximum by using the outer hook/eye mounts at the bottom and the outer mounts for the clamps at the top. Note the handles can't be down in this configuration.

Whilst the cable strain is not totally obvious to the point the cables are stretched at the connectors and at risk of damage should the battery move whilst driving; the Power cable is tight enough that the red +ve cover can no longer be fitted, and the distribution block is fitted at an angle.

It fits, but can't be any bigger, and took about 30 minutes to install.

The battery is shoved to the far right of the battery tray to make the power cable and the rigid right-angled part of the distribution block reach, and some of the sleeving that is clamped near to the suspension bell housing needed to be loosened and moved to give more slack.

100_0427.jpg

100_0428.jpg

EDIT: In fact, seeing those pictures again I'm going to redo that because it was done at the roadside on Saturday and I'm not happy with it.

Bob that is exactly the problem I faced and I was worried that any tight cables may be subject to extra strain which may be effected by engine movement.

May I suggest that you disconnect the box from the Battery post clamp and turn it 90 degrees anti clockwise to see if

that helps at all and if so make a link between the two to connect them back together.

Del

Would fitting one of THESE give the extra cable reach required?

As I see it Bob that would seem to move the block further away and make the whole assembly wider and as the cables run more or less under the Battery would not that make the cables even tighter if you could get it to fit?

Del

Sorreey Dav for posting the wrong name :blink::blink:

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Bob that is exactly the problem I faced and I was worried that any tight cables may be subject to extra strain which may be effected by engine movement.

May I suggest that you disconnect the box from the battery post clamp and turn it 90 degrees anti clockwise to see if

that helps at all and if so make a link between the two to connect them back together.

Del

Would fitting one of THESE give the extra cable reach required?

As I see it Bob that would seem to move the block further away and make the whole assembly wider and as the cables run more or less under the Battery would not that make the cables even tighter if you could get it to fit?

Del

I actually have a GND isolator on the BMW that I can borrow, and the problem I forsee with both the isolator and adjusting the #10 locknut are that the two parts have square faces and won't sit at say a 30degree bend. I will give all those things a try and report back.

The other issue is the way the cables must exit at right angles to the clamp and they want to go downwards towards the road quite firmly, it requires a lot more cable slack. If the terminals were at the front of the Battery rather than the back it would be fine, albeit a bit close to that -ve strut bar thingy.

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Sorreey Dav for posting the wrong name :blink::blink:

No problem Jim :thumbsup:

I'm not familiar with the arrangement on the 4.2 but just wondered if, by using the switch unit which turns the original clamp through 90 degrees and adding a bit of length, the cables might be less strained :unsure:

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Sorreey Dav for posting the wrong name :blink::blink:

No problem Jim :thumbsup:

I'm not familiar with the arrangement on the 4.2 but just wondered if, by using the switch unit which turns the original clamp through 90 degrees and adding a bit of length, the cables might be less strained :unsure:

I'll give it a go, it won't go to 90deg without an extension though, such as that isolator.

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Sorreey Dav for posting the wrong name :blink::blink:

No problem Jim :thumbsup:

I'm not familiar with the arrangement on the 4.2 but just wondered if, by using the switch unit which turns the original clamp through 90 degrees and adding a bit of length, the cables might be less strained :unsure:

Got you now Murgatroid :lol::lol:

I didn't realise the end enabled you to turn the corner

I have always assumed the "box" is only a distribution box or is there more to it?

Del

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I have always assumed the "box" is only a distribution box or is there more to it?

Del

I think there is a fuse stuffed in there too, maybe for the alarm/safety system? On some cars there is a small explosive device that permanently disconnects the main power line to the car in the event of a heavy impact, whilst leaving a small bypass to run the interior lights, hazards and emergency phone (if fitted) which can dial 112 and report the vehicle GPS position (if fitted) and also allow remote control of the door locks and other bits and bobs.

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I have always assumed the "box" is only a distribution box or is there more to it?

Del

I think there is a fuse stuffed in there too, maybe for the alarm/safety system? On some cars there is a small explosive device that permanently disconnects the main power line to the car in the event of a heavy impact, whilst leaving a small bypass to run the interior lights, hazards and emergency phone (if fitted) which can dial 112 and report the vehicle GPS position (if fitted) and also allow remote control of the door locks and other bits and bobs.

Cheers for that reply Bob

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I fitted a diesel Battery for BK and I don't remember struggling to fit it. Kev was there but he was still recovering after being stiffed by Halfords (named and shamed for taking advantage). Its been a long process but Kev has been left with a nasty case of tourrettes especially when driving past a retail park.

Within the red box is a large fuse that protects against short circuits - you should never get a Battery fire on a RAV.

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....and as for Davrav insinuating that I charge golf BALLS for helping my fellow forumnicators....this is totally untrue....my standing charge for a SENSIBLE AND ULTIMATELY HELPFUL reply to any member's problem is ONE (1) golf ball.

I have therefore so far accrued the sum total of 0.85 golf balls, thus reflecting my helpful nature and knowledge on Ravs.

We should all reward each other in this fashion, so it would be BALLS TO EVERYBODY IN TOYOTA CLUB....? :yahoo:

It has now stopped raining up here after 2 years, so if photographs of larger Battery in wife's 3 door Battery tray fitted by Anchorman very easily (as I was there too....) just shout. The wee motorcycle Battery removed still holding charge strangely enough...

Big Kev :lol:

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so if photographs of larger battery in wife's 3 door battery tray fitted by Anchorman very easily (as I was there too....) just shout.
Yes please, particularly interested in the three cables that go up to the distribution block and how they fix to the car at the suspension turret.
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so if photographs of larger battery in wife's 3 door battery tray fitted by Anchorman very easily (as I was there too....) just shout.
Yes please, particularly interested in the three cables that go up to the distribution block and how they fix to the car at the suspension turret.

Phoateez herewith, Bob....if required from any other angle or mangnification, just shout.No comprendez what you refer to as "going to suspension turret", but this on 2004 model....has it changed...?

Big Kev :thumbsup:

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