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4.2 Rear Discs - One Hotter Than Other...?


tash2007
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Sounds like you need to give everything a very good look over.

After I have removed the rear pads I usually find that the rear calliper has "lightly stuck" on its sliding pins (mine are well lubricated), it may need a gentle thump with the palm of your hand to free up.

If you have not done so I would recommend removing the two bolts holding the calliper and lubricate the internal sliding parts. I seem to remember that access is limited to these bolts, so a socket will not fit but a long (14mm ?) ring spanner will do the job.

With the calliper off it should also be easy to remove the disk and check the hand brake.

Brake calliper and parking brake diagrams attached.

thanks Ian XT4, armed with all the stuff on there and Anchorman's writeups I feel mildly optimistic about sorting or at least diagnosing whatTF is/has been going on :thumbsup:

cheers

Jim

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I found a better TSB document that shows the separate anti rattle pins and explains how to assemble them on the calliper.

RAV rear brake assembly instruction.pdf

Get this when I tried downloading your file... :eek:

The content is blocked due to the following condition:

The item you have requested is infected by a virus. It will not be downloaded.

Report:

Heuristics.Encrypted.PDF

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Sounds like you need to give everything a very good look over.

After I have removed the rear pads I usually find that the rear calliper has "lightly stuck" on its sliding pins (mine are well lubricated), it may need a gentle thump with the palm of your hand to free up.

If you have not done so I would recommend removing the two bolts holding the calliper and lubricate the internal sliding parts. I seem to remember that access is limited to these bolts, so a socket will not fit but a long (14mm ?) ring spanner will do the job.

With the calliper off it should also be easy to remove the disk and check the hand brake.

Brake calliper and parking brake diagrams attached.

While these files are fine :thumbsup:

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Downloads fine and scans ok for me, I use Kasperski antivirus and I am somewhat (very) paranoid when it comes to security.

Your message said Heuristics.Encrypted.PDF

If you do a Google for "Heuristics.Encrypted.PDF" it seems that some anti-virus packages wrongly identify certain PDFs as containing a virus.

Its been downloaded 16 times and we have had no other reported problems, so my first guess is you might have a problem with your anti-virus package :)

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Downloads fine and scans ok for me, I use Kasperski antivirus and I am somewhat (very) paranoid when it comes to security.

Your message said Heuristics.Encrypted.PDF

If you do a Google for "Heuristics.Encrypted.PDF" it seems that some anti-virus packages wrongly identify certain PDFs as containing a virus.

Its been downloaded 16 times and we have had no other reported problems, so my first guess is you might have a problem with your anti-virus package :)

best to keep taking the pills then ??? :lol:

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Downloads fine and scans ok for me, I use Kasperski antivirus and I am somewhat (very) paranoid when it comes to security.

Your message said Heuristics.Encrypted.PDF

If you do a Google for "Heuristics.Encrypted.PDF" it seems that some anti-virus packages wrongly identify certain PDFs as containing a virus.

Its been downloaded 16 times and we have had no other reported problems, so my first guess is you might have a problem with your anti-virus package :)

it's not my anti virus program on my computer but my proxy firewall anti virus...

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Hi,

well just come in from looking at the issues and fitting new pad rattle springs, and retaining clips & found:-

1) no sign of any brake grease/coppaslip on any of the pads,pins

2) handbrake appears to be working OK

3) a small tear in the piston "boot" of one caliper (not the noisy side though)

4) no sign of any coil spring upper insulators on either side :unsure:

...but why does only the pass. rear make the rattly squeaky noise thing over bumps etc - could it be something else on the suspension?

For a test I sprayed some 3in1 type oil spray onto the pass rear spring's upper housing (where I believe the insualtor should be?) and also onto the top shocker mount (under the wheelarch)

The noise was reduced a little esp. over small bumps but still there on the larger ones....

Any thoughts anyone?

Cheers again

Jim

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Firstly copper grease or oil of any kind should get any where near rubber - it will cause it to rot big time.

Brake manufacturers do NOT recommend using copper grease (anti-seize compound). That's probably why one boot has already torn.

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It still amazes me how most people swear by synthetic oil but still smother their brakes with the same stuff their dad used when they were in nappies :D

A while ago I read a number or articles regarding lubricants manufacturers now recommend for ABS brakes (and its not copperslip).

After some research I bought some Mintex Ceratec, which I found rather thin and a bit like normal car grease.

I finally sourced a tube of Fords Silicon Grease to ESE-M1C171-A order part no 1197919 . This stuff is expensive at around £15 a 100g tube but its the "synthetic" equivalent of brake lubricants.

If you are still smearing copper impregnated clay over your brakes and want a modern lubricant I would thoroughly recommend it.

I am still looking for a source of Silicon Brake grease that is cheaper than Fords. I can source silicon grease easily, its ensuring that the formulation/mix is suitable (and tested) for brake environments. If anyone has any cheaper alternatives please let me know.

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It still amazes me how most people swear by synthetic oil but still smother their brakes with the same stuff their dad used when they were in nappies :D

A while ago I read a number or articles regarding lubricants manufacturers now recommend for ABS brakes (and its not copperslip).

After some research I bought some Mintex Ceratec, which I found rather thin and a bit like normal car grease.

I finally sourced a tube of Fords Silicon Grease to ESE-M1C171-A order part no 1197919 . This stuff is expensive at around £15 a 100g tube but its the "synthetic" equivalent of brake lubricants.

If you are still smearing copper impregnated clay over your brakes and want a modern lubricant I would thoroughly recommend it.

I am still looking for a source of Silicon Brake grease that is cheaper than Fords. I can source silicon grease easily, its ensuring that the formulation/mix is suitable (and tested) for brake environments. If anyone has any cheaper alternatives please let me know.

Interesting...

I was surprised when my friendly mechanic told me that using silicon from a cartridge would seal the joints on the exhaust system of our (large) generator. But sure enough - when we used it as the gasket compound, it worked! And the 6 cylinder genny pumps out a lot of heat! Not that I'd try it on my brakes.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Anyone got a pointer to a parts diagram (with numbers ideally) to see what I need?
Parts diagrams are here.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/

thanks Joylove, I've been using that site for part numbers but where are the diagrams? :unsure:

(Thought maybe my flaky browser (K-Meleon)isn't showing them but I checked in IE and still couldn't see any actual diagrams... I'd be V grateful if someone could show me where they are :thumbsup: )

Cheers

Jim

Joylove you were correct ToyoDIY DOES have parts diagrams :thumbsup: :thumbsup: - only available after registering though.. but still very useful

Cheers

Jim

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