Rav4.1

[Grenadekidffere]

Hi I purchased a 94 rav4 gx at the start of the summer, i have droven it a lot and its a great wee jeep, i am currently getting about 250 miles to the tankful. Is this average for the rav4?.

Another question is what should i look about servicing, i am going to check the timing belt but was told it was replaced about 20,00 miles ago, im also going to flush coolant and refill plus change brake fluid and check brakes as well as i suspect passenger side front caliper might be sticking and its pulling slightly to left when braking. Is there anything else to look out for on these?

regards kev

[Davrav]

Hi I purchased a 94 rav4 gs at the start of the summer, i have droven it a lot and its a great wee jeep, i am currently getting about 250 miles to the tankful. Is this average for the rav4?.

Another question is what should i look about servicing, i am going to check the timing belt but was told it was replaced about 20,00 miles ago, im also going to flush coolant and refill plus change brake fluid and check brakes as well as i suspect passenger side front caliper might be sticking and its pulling slightly to left when braking. Is there anything else to look out for on these?

regards kev

Welcome to the forum Kev

You'll be wanting to hear from Bothwell Buyer. He has two 4.1s [though one's highly modified ]

I've seen him mention sticking calipers more than once.

Doubtless he'll look in sometime soon

[Grenadekidffere]

Thanks Davrav i will wait around to here from him as im really interested in restoring this little rav4 over the next year or so, not that its rough or anything. Evrything works on it and thats something else counting that its 17 year old, the bodywork is very good with very little rust and most of the paintwork is genuine. It has 90,000 miles on it but dont know if thats genuine?.

Do these suffer from rust or rot and if so where as i have not seen anything untowards on mine yet

regards kev

[bothwell_buyer]

Good man Kev. A bit of love and attention and you'll be repaid !!

Check the rear inside wheel arches for rust and muck.

Also the petrol filler pipe and breather pipe behind the plastic shroud in the nearside rear wheel well.

Have a look at the tops of the turret things that hold the top of the rear shock absorbers for rust. Should be OK but worth a check.

I get 250 miles from a tank of Shell VPower but thats with my number 2 RAV which is also running a turbo engine. You might get a little more depending on how you use it. The tank holds 60 litres but I found that it normally takes about 50 litres as the last 8-10 litres are a slow fill.

Make sure you have the right spark plugs in.

On the calipers, I found the nearside front a nightmare. They stick due to muck etc, so check that the caliper pistons retract properly otherwise you'll have problems with the pad material welding itself onto the discs and then having to replace discs. jack up the front and apply the brake hard, release then try turning the wheel. It will be stiff cos of the 4x4 but the brake should be clear.

I've never had problems with the rear brakes.

Check the front carpets for signs of leaks from around the windscreen - I've had quite a few problems from the screen being replaced without enough sealant around the glass. If the carpets are wet then it can cause rust on the floor.

Have fun - I do !

[Grenadekidffere]

Thanks bothwell for those tips i will check those areas out before winter sets in right. Just when you mention filling the tank i forgot that thats 250 for 50 litres as i didnt fill it that time, attendant filled it last week and noticed petrol dripping onto ground so i reckon the filler pipe is rotten and leaking when you fill her to full. So after that recalculation i would be getting about 25 mpg. I will know after this tankful as i only put in 48 litres before the pump clicked so i didnt bother putting anymore in since it leaked last time.

What is you turbo engine out of?, celica or something?. Plan to eventually give her a respray eventually as shes red and the paint is dulled and hard to keep bright, i think the word is oxidised?.

Any photos on the forum here of your 2, keen to see the modified one.

regards kevin

[CharlieFarlie]

Kevin.. Red paint will oxidise if its a single stage paint IE one layer rather than a basecoat with a lacquer over the top. A good polish best done by machine will remove all the oxidisation and the paint can then be sealed with a decent paint sealant to help it return.. Only a good deep polish will remove it though !! If ist not removed properly it wil start to dull very quickly !!

[Grenadekidffere]

hello charlie When you say "paint sealant" do you mean 2k clearcoat or an off the shelf product you rub into the paint like polish. The paint on my rav4 is singlepack as i suspect is on most solid coloured rav 4,s. Somebodys been at it before charlie with a mop as they have actually rubbed through the black paint to the undercoat where the gs decal is while they were trying to bring up the red.

regards kevin

[bothwell_buyer]

Its off. The bit round the decal seems to be the first to go.

[CharlieFarlie]

hello charlie When you say "paint sealant" do you mean 2k clearcoat or an off the shelf product you rub into the paint like polish. The paint on my rav4 is singlepack as i suspect is on most solid coloured rav 4,s. Somebodys been at it before charlie with a mop as they have actually rubbed through the black paint to the undercoat where the gs decal is while they were trying to bring up the red.

regards kevin

I mean a paint sealant like Chemical Guys Jetseal 109. Its easy to apply with a soft foam applicator .It must then be left to cure for 30 mins before buffing off. Best apply twice to get good results.

Its very easy to determine if You have singe stage paint or lacquer over base-coat. Simply put a little polish on a cloth and well polish ...If You see the same colour on the cloth as on the car (In Your case Red ) then You have single stage. If all You have on the cloth is a bit of product residue and a little dirt then You have Lacquer over base.. HTH.

Oh and single stage paint is Ultra soft and enormous care has to be taken when polishing !! Very light cutting polishes and very very soft pads must be used or You will strike through the paint in no time !!

Wee Charlie.

[Grenadekidffere]

put her on the lift today and changed brake flexi hoses front and rear, partly replaced rear brake pipes as getting a bit too rusty. The sticking caliper was nothing more than component brake discs a bit over size for the caliper so a small buff with a grinder to leave them a snug fit and no sticking brakes now .

Gonna refill with nice new brake fluid and diff and gearbox oils next then coolant flush and replace.Before the end of the week ill replace the two front belts and check the condition of the timing belt :D. I also need two rear shocks as they are worn out

Just to add i cant get over the condition of the underneath its mint.A good wash and a coat of waxoil will keep it this winter and prob next

[Grenadekidffere]

Washed her all underneath today to check condition of body, was quite pleased only problem is channel that runs along bottom of back door on the chassis is rotten underneath so i have to cut it out and repair, towbar was hiding it a bit but ah well it is 94 . The only other thing i found is a hole in the filler pipe where it has rotted through, so that explains where the petrol was dripping from when i filled her. Thanks for pointing that one out Bothwell.

[bothwell_buyer]

Cheers.

I will post recent photos up soon.

Both cars are running 3SGTE engines from the MR2. Number 1 is running with a lot more mods though, - brakes; suspension; stage 3 turbo; sttraight thru large exhaust; intercooler; and the most recent is the roll-cage.

[bothwell_buyer]

a shot of the rollcage getting installed...

[Whiteclaw]

Rear wheel well for rust. Mine has it bad, right through, got a hole there, so I am gonna have to patch and fix taking all of Charlies advice on these boards then about paints etc.

The rust on mine was there from previous owner though.

My car does over 300 on a full tank. On just less than half I can do 150. Not bad I think.

[Grenadekidffere]

Got all the work finished on her at the minute, been in the garage all over christmas and before but back on the road again, Running great now new fuel filter seems to have cured the engine miss and so far seems easier on fuel but a bit early to tell until i have run a bit through her. I will post a photo as soon as i get a chance. Polished her with collonite which says it lasts nearly a year on the tin "Great", I think it was from reading one of charlies posts that turned me that direction so thanks charlie. Next year i think i will do a full respray as the paintwork is far from mint but is passable for now. I think the big mount needs changed on the axle Bothwell as theres still a knock when letting the clutch up between gears, unfortunately its the more expensive of the two and requires dropping the axle as far as i can see.

By the way Strong roll cage m8, lets hope you dont need it lol