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Auris Callbacks


harrness
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Hi Guys

Just took delivery of a 2008 1.6 T3 automatic.

My first automatic car, need as my wife has recently been diagnosed with MS.

Did not want to buy a new car until I see if my wife can manage an dautomatic.

Noticed my first potential problem, parked the car in my driveway, fairly steep. when I came back to it a few hours later and sat on the seat, the brakes gave a bit of a noise, sounded like I had not pulled the handbrake on hard enough.

I would normally leave my manual car in gear, whats the policy for an automatic?

Also wondering if the Auris was involved in any Recalls/callbacks?

Love the site.

harrness

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em you cant get an auris auto...you get a mmt which really isnt an auto its a manual with a couple of wiper motors attached to it..

how many clicks does the handbrake go up?

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With the MMT the handbook recommends it's left in gear on an incline. Reverse for a "nose down" slope, 1st for "nose up".

The engine will not turn over until neutral is engaged so no danger of forgetting it's in gear. To select neutral just press brake pedal, ignition on, move to N, then start normally.

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thanks guys

Do understand about the automatic vs mmt.

which position is 1st? is it E?

i park nose up slope

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With the MMT the handbook recommends it's left in gear on an incline. Reverse for a "nose down" slope, 1st for "nose up".

The engine will not turn over until neutral is engaged so no danger of forgetting it's in gear. To select neutral just press brake pedal, ignition on, move to N, then start normally.

I thought it was the other way round!? :huh:

Like facing downhill, use 1st gear. I thought the effect you want is that the engine will turn in its NORMAL rotational direction if the car actually moves while in gear, if the handbrake doesn't hold it.

Probably a bad idea to force the engine to rotate 'backwards' (e.g rolling backwards while in 1st gear) - that's not recommended for any normal car engine!

Also, leave the front wheels turned a little towards the kerb, so it will roll into the kerb if it does move. Or better still use at least one wheel chock (i.e. wedge, or a brick!), though only necessary on extreme slopes, or if the car's handbrake is known to be 'unreliable'. :unsure:

all the best,

Tony

ps ok slap me silly if I'm wrong... :wacko:

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Guys

I have looked at the owners manual, it does say put in 1st or rev, when parking on hill or slope but cant see a mention of nose up or down :blink:

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easy if you think about it....................

nose down the hill put in reverse(will stop rolling forward)

nose up the hill 1st(will stop rolling back)

also as said how many clicks does the handbrake go up

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easy if you think about it....................

nose down the hill put in reverse(will stop rolling forward)

nose up the hill 1st(will stop rolling back)

also as said how many clicks does the handbrake go up

Sorry, but I have to respectfully disagree.

You are entitled to hear my explanation.

(WARNING - my 'explanations' have been known to cause either suicidal or homicidal reactions) :ffs:

You have been warned, so onwards...

Assuming we're talking about a 4-stroke multi-cylinder engine (that is turned OFF) and is in good condition (i.e. good compression on all cylinders)...

The stroke that offers maximum resistance to crank rotation on such an engine is the 'compression' stroke.

All valves shut as the compression stroke begins, and if the crank is turned in the 'normal direction, crank rotation is increasingly resisted as further movement increases pressure (compression) in the cylinder. This effectively acts as a 'brake' against further movement. This is the effect we're using to stop the car rolling down a hill.

If you force the crank backwards (and yes, it will go 'backwards' if forced, as there's nothing to stop it), no proper 'compression' stroke exists that is comparable with a true 'compression stroke', as the valve timing is all wrong (refer to 4-stroke engine valve timing principles).

The induction stroke, when forced to run backwards, becomes a kind of 'exhaust stroke' that pushes air backwards into the inlet manifold!

Meanwhile the exhaust stroke becomes a distorted kind of induction stroke that pulls air backwards, pulling it in from the exhaust pipe!

In any case, it is 'unhealthy' to force a modern 4-stroke engine to turn 'backwards' as there may be items geared off the crank that are not designed to be run backwards (e.g oil, water and hydraulic pumps, plus cams etc).

Bottom line is the crankshaft of a (4-STROKE) engine should only be run in the NORMAL direction, not backwards.

Even if you do force it backwards, the braking effect that we're looking for (due to compression) will be reduced, as engine compression is poor in that mode.

So, if anything tries to force the engine crankshaft to rotate, it will be best resisted by an engine that is being forced to rotate in it's NORMAL rotational direction.

And as soon as that principle is accepted, then the rest follows on like day after night...

If a car is trying to roll forwards, put in 1st gear (with the engine off) to resist the movement. The engine will be forced to turn in the NORMAL direction, and engine compression will resist movement, acting as a brake.

Similarly if a car is trying to roll backwards, put in reverse gear to resist the movement. The engine will turn in the NORMAL direction, and engine compression will resist movement, acting as a brake.

Apologies for the verbal diarrhea. My brain hurts now - time for a lager. B)

And if you've actually taken the time to read the above properly, have one yourself cos you've definitely earned it :yes:

cheers ;) ,

Tony

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Sorry but Toyota disagree. :)

Page 218 of the Yaris handbook referring to the MMT it states -

1. Apply the handbrake firmly.

2. While depressing the brake pedal, shift the shift lever in the "R" position on a downhill, and the "M(1)" position on an uphill by confirming the gear position with the gear position indicator.

3. Stop the engine.

Then on page 219 there is a little drawing confirming the above.

So might I respectfully advise you read the handbook Tony then take up your case with Toyota as they are obviously wrong!

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cant be assed qouting....romulon

for arguments sake......

go to your car park on a level surface and put in any forward gear you want....unless your a weakling youll be able to push your car it will be hard depending on gear but you can move it........

now do the same but put the car in reverse and do the same test......you wont move it!!! i rest my case..

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