Power Steering & Gear Change A Liffle Stiff

[aetius80]

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice on a couple of recent issues with my Toyota.

The power steering feels a little stiff. The gear stick also feels a little stiff during gear change (the clutch pedal is smooth). Neither is a big problem and both are working at the moment, but it just doesn't feel as smooth as it used to be.

I popped open the bonnet on my 1.4L 2005 Corolla vvti expecting to find a resevoir for power steering fluid, but I couldn't find it. I saw the brake fluid, coolant and windshield water, but no power steering fluid resevoir. I checked the Haynes manual, but the information is incorrect in my manual.

Please can someone advise where I can find the power steering fluid?

Can someone advise if there is manual transmission fluid which can be changed and if so, how I'd go about doing it?

The car is a 2005 1.4L petrol Corolla vvti, has done 24000 miles, whilst it hasn't seen a Toyota dealer in 3 years, it has an engine oil and filter change every year and is generally in good condition.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Thx

Dan

[oldcodger]

Hey Dan,

Well you do not power steering fluid, its electric power steering !

If you look under the steering wheel where the column goes under the dash you will see the silver buldge on the column where the motor attaches.

My first thoughts would be tyre pressures, as it got a bit colder recently so your pressures drop and you steering can seem a bit heavier.

If that does not help then the whole steering / suspension needs checking - it could be many so things - perhaps one for a friendly garage to check out as it not an easy thing to do.

Your gearchange, well again it could be the cable and linkages if they are getting a bit dry.

Its not the most difficult of jobs to do , if you know what you are doing, a can of spray oil/grease should help.

Similarly changing the transmission oil is simple enough, just needs 2 lts of suitable oil, I used 75W/90 GL5 Semi Synth, though some say fully synth is better

Best thing is get yourself a Haynes manual with shows in detail how to get to all the above mention points - its easy enough once you can 'see' how to do it.

Anything unclear, just ask here first.

[corollat3sport]

im having the same problem with my car too with the gear shifting

its a little stiff, i think im going to have a look on the web on how to change the gear oil and il let you know if i find anything

also i might pray some of the cables and linkages that are to do with the gears

[oldcodger]

im having the same problem with my car too with the gear shifting

its a little stiff, i think im going to have a look on the web on how to change the gear oil and il let you know if i find anything

also i might pray some of the cables and linkages that are to do with the gears

Hi,

No need to search the web its all here in this forum.

It just a case of identifying the filler plug, the drain is quiet obvious.

Like engine oil, just give the car a good run to get it hot so it drains easily.

My link

While there is lots of talk about oil types the specified standard grade should be fine.

Getting at the linkage, you just need to pop out the gear lever surround , the other end can be seen from the engine bay.

As mentioned above a Haynes manual is well worth getting.

[aetius80]

Ngizer, great write up btw!

My car is a manual with low mileage, is it still worth doing the gear box oil change?

I've heard some people say they never do this on manuals.

thx

[oldcodger]

Ngizer, great write up btw!

My car is a manual with low mileage, is it still worth doing the gear box oil change?

I've heard some people say they never do this on manuals.

thx

Hey,

What many people preach is not always what they practice themselves.

Oil has a limited life, be it unused in the bottle or moreso in the car.

Toyota specify 40k or 4 years, but do you know if Toyota changed the gearbox oil at the service 3 years ago ?

If not that implies its never been changed in 6 years, let alone the level checked.

You can do what you see fit, me for the sake of 2 ltrs of gear oil v damaging the gearbox I'd do it now.

If you drain the oil you might be surprised at what comes out, colour wise.

[CorollaD4D]

my car hadn't had a gearbox oil change, recently at around 100K when I had clutch and flywheel changed I got the mechanic some new gearbox oil from the stealers. By the way if you have the diesel don't let the dealer sell you 2L because that's what they tried with me. The diesel box takes over 2L so you need to buy 3L from the dealer.

that was 100K and nearly 7 years old and the oil was really dark black in colour. the new stuff was like honey.

I have noticed since the oil change esp on cold days the car is harder to get into gear, but in a more assured way rather than the sloppy gear change i had before. probably because the oil is thicker.

[oldcodger]

Hey All,

Just to qualify my earlier posts I was refering to the Petrol Engine which every book including Toyota does say change it at 40k /4 years.

Seems on the Diesel no schedule is specified ? - wonder why ?? - is it a totally different box ???

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

my car hadn't had a gearbox oil change, recently at around 100K when I had clutch and flywheel changed I got the mechanic some new gearbox oil from the stealers. By the way if you have the diesel don't let the dealer sell you 2L because that's what they tried with me. The diesel box takes over 2L so you need to buy 3L from the dealer.

that was 100K and nearly 7 years old and the oil was really dark black in colour. the new stuff was like honey.

I have noticed since the oil change esp on cold days the car is harder to get into gear, but in a more assured way rather than the sloppy gear change i had before. probably because the oil is thicker.

HI mate...

I experienced the same thing when i changed my gearbox oil approx a year ago...your quote

"I have noticed since the oil change esp on cold days the car is harder to get into gear, but in a more assured way rather than the sloppy gear change i had before. probably because the oil is thicker"

Now she seems okay, still feel it felt smoother before, but then i can't remember how she felt at first... hey im loosing my marbles lol...but i remeber the old oil was dark dark black and defo needed changing!

[CorollaD4D]

Yep same here Sam, the old oil and the new stuff were not shades apart but were just completely different colours!

oldcodger the diesel box is better (obviously :P ) hence it doesn't need the oil change as regularly hehe!

[DS9]

I have an issue with the power steering on my Corolla 1.4 petrol... The steering goes very stiff after driving 40 / 50 miles. It only seems to happen on long motorway drives. The day to day steering is fine.. it's only on long trips that the steering wheel goes stiff and seems to lock in the straight ahead position. This stiffness only seems to come on after 40 / 50 miles or an hours driving. Very strange..?

My thoughts are:

1. Tyre pressure... At the moment it's 32 psi on the front. I was thinking of reducing the pressure to 30 psi just in case the pressure is building up as the tyres heat up. Normally I run my front tyres at 30 psi, but I pumped them upto 32 psi about one month ago to get better MPG. Maybe the extra psi build up in the tyres on long drives is upsetting the power steering damping system.

2. Poss replace the car Battery. It's the original Battery (5/6 years old now).. maybe it's not able to deliver enough current to the power steering system or the voltage is becoming unstable.

3. Poss engine mount issue - Because about 2 weeks ago I got some very bad clutch judder on move off from a roundabout (Cold engine / clutch)... I wonder if an engine mount has failed / weakened?

Cheers,

DS9

[DS9]

hiya,

Just a little update... Today, I went out in the damp and rain :-( But I'm glad I did now!

I let the tyres down to 30 psi...

I did a Battery capacity test. First, I measured the Battery voltage with the engine and internal cab light switched off. It measured 12.50 volts.

I then started the engine after a 5 min wait. The voltage jumped up to 14.45 and held steady. After 5 min I switched off the engine. The voltage stayed at 13.20 volts. After 5 min I switched on the main light to full with the engine switched off. Within 1 min the voltage dropped to 11.80... then 1 min later 11.50... within 4 min it was dropping fast and I switch off the ligths quickly at 10 volts.

I was able to re-start the engine but it really struggled to start.. but once going the voltage jumped to 14.70 and I could hear the engine working hard to charge the Battery.

I think it's safe to say it failed the battery test! I've now put the battery on charge (4 amp charge) after removing the negitive on the battery pole. I'll charge it overnight if possible.

BTW - This weekend gone I drove the car for 200+ miles so the battery should have been fully charged.

I think this is whats causing my stiff steering problem after 40/50 miles drive... Maybe the battery can't deliver the peek current to the power steering motor, drive the lights and fan at the same time... just not enough capacity left in the old battery.

I'll start shopping around for a new battery soon..

I hope this helps anyone?

Cheers,

DS9

[Steven252]

The Battery doesnt power the electrics once the car is running, the alternator does. So changing the Battery wont solve the problem.

Have u measured the voltage with the car running and all lights on? Should be between 14-15v? Also have someone rock the steering from side to side while u check

[DS9]

I get 14.40 volts with the engine running and the voltage drops when I turn the steering wheel from side to side. I looked in the car's hand book. The electic power steering has a 50 Amp fuse... So it must take quite a few amps.

I think todays cars use a lot more power these days. The Battery only acts as a current buffer and voltage stabiliser. You're right the alternator does provides most the power, but it can only deliver so many amps and x RPM. If the alternator can't deliver the power then the Battery has to meet the extra current demand. Remember my steering only goes stiff and jerky on 40/50 mile trips the rest of the time it's fine. Also I tend to drive at 60 MPH on motorways so the engine's RPMs are low and I would image the alternator is not at it's full current deliver RPMs.

I've ordered a new Battery from the internet... a Bosch S5005 for £60 delivered to my front door. It's the max size for the battery tray.. I just hope it fits :-) The old battery is only 40AH... I've gone for a 63AH.

The proof will be in the pudding. The battery arrives Tue / Wed.. I needed a new battery anyway for winter, so it won't be a great loss... but fingers crossed it solves my issue.

Cheers,

DS9

[Steven252]

I hope it does but honestly think your problem lies else where. If you had said the problem arises after 50 miles and when at idle, i would have agreed with you. Assuming yours is a 6 speed at 60 in sixth you will be just shy off 3krpm. This is more than enough to power everything elecrically operated (and more) in the car.

Is the steering coloum gettin hot?

[CorollaD4D]

there is a problem with the corolla electronic power steering. for example in my car if you go from lock to lock in the middle the power steering must cut out or something because it gives the feeling of going stiff, and then it releases and you can continue as normal.

[DS9]

Steering column getting hot? I never thought of checking that... How do I check the temp? Is it possible to get to the steering motor?

BTW - I never get any warning lights come up on the dash.

Cheers,

DS9

[Steven252]

Remove the steering column covers (4/5 screws) take it for a drive and feel wether the steering motor is getting hot with your hand, of its stupidly hot to touch its more than likely the motor giving up

[DS9]

I installed the new Battery - Bosch S5 S5005, but you're right it didn't solve my steering issue (Steering goes stiff / sticky on motorways after 40 miles). I'll check the steering motor temp...

BTW - The new Battery is great and the engine turns over faster and I'm sure the steering does feel a little lighter.

Cheers,

DS9

[doddery old git]

I am having a similar problem with the gearchange on my 2001 corolla 1.4. It has covered 88000 miles and so far has been driving fine. The problem is that changing gear is difficult and very notchy, reverse in particular either slides in no bother or goes in with a loud crunch . It seems to get a bit easier once the car is out on the road and I have been driving for twenty minutes or so although reverse doesn't seem to improve. I am assuming that the gearchange gets easier once the gearbox oil is hot but I am only guessing. The clutch isn't slipping but I do sometimes get a bit of shuddering taking off in 1st but not any other gear. I have no idea when or if the car has ever had it's gearbox oil changed so could this be the problem or is it symptomatic of something more sinister?. Similarly I don't know if or when any adjustment was carried out on the linkages or cables ( I'm not sure what kind of adjustment there is on this car, if any ) Any help would be most appreciated as although the car generally drives well this issue with the gearchange is becoming both annoying and somewhat worrying.

[oldcodger]

There is no clutch adjustment as its a hydraulic system so you could check over that.

The clutch and brakes share the same resevoir but though the brakes may have been bled did they do the clutch as well ?

The gearbox oil is easy enough to change, just a drain and fill plug and 2ltrs of the right gear oil can also make a difference.

Any air or very old fluid can affect the cluch action.

You could also have some heavy wear on the gear linkage, though not a regular problem I have heard of and not easy to check /access

If the above are ok, my suspicion would be the clutch assembly, typically a £300 garage job, or a lot more at Mr T

All the above points and loads more diy service items well covered in the Haynes Manual, a good buy.