Clutch Noise When Pressed In? And Light Out On Heater Contriol

[Molnboman]

Hej Lads and Lassies

Couple of points.

1: I have slight mechanical creaking sound when the clutch is depressed....is this normal?....doesn't appear to affect the gearchange just wondering if that is a "charachteristic" with Rav4.2 petrol.

Also, I noticed the back light is out on the 12 oclock position on the heater direction control. Is this just the design or is it fixable....is it a big job?

Small irrelevant issues, but I would oblige any advice on the above,

Lastly, anyone know the correct tyre prssure ( metric )for Rav4.2 2lt vvti unladen? Please post a link if it's available.

Happy Driving!

Cheers

A

[IanXT4]

You car clutch should not normally creak, there are a number of possible causes, this deals with one.

(I have assumed the creak comes from the engine bay and is not something simple like a dry clutch pedal pivot)

The "creak" I have suffered from was in the area of the clutch slave cylinder. I finally discovered it was caused by a lack of lubrication at the release fork support (pivot), easily fixed with a very small dab of grease.

I have attached a diagram of the components.

If you look on your car at the clutch slave cylinder you will see a lever that goes into the bell housing through a rubber boot. If you remove this rubber boot and run your finger along the lever you will feel the pivot point. (release fork support in diagram). Its a bit fiddly to lubricate, I placed a small dab of grease at the end of my finger.

Short fingered people could use an angled mirror and torch to see the pivot, lubricate with a pencil end.

Don't be tempted to spray any lubricant into the bell housing, you might accidently lubricate the clutch and this will be extremely expensive to rectify. Similarly go easy on the grease only a dab of a high melting point grease is required.

Be aware I found the rubber boot very fiddly to relocate you need some patience and probably an angled mirror.

After you have relocated the rubber boot and while you have the grease out, its probably also a good idea to lubricate the point where the slave cylinder touches the release fork.

Any advice given is meant to be helpful and in good spirit. No liability is accepted for loss , damage or injury. WORK SAFELY

Clutch unit components.pdf

[Molnboman]

You car clutch should not normally creak, there are a number of possible causes, this deals with one.

(I have assumed the creak comes from the engine bay and is not something simple like a dry clutch pedal pivot)

The "creak" I have suffered from was in the area of the clutch slave cylinder. I finally discovered it was caused by a lack of lubrication at the release fork support (pivot), easily fixed with a very small dab of grease.

I have attached a diagram of the components.

If you look on your car at the clutch slave cylinder you will see a lever that goes into the bell housing through a rubber boot. If you remove this rubber boot and run your finger along the lever you will feel the pivot point. (release fork support in diagram). Its a bit fiddly to lubricate, I placed a small dab of grease at the end of my finger.

Short fingered people could use an angled mirror and torch to see the pivot, lubricate with a pencil end.

Don't be tempted to spray any lubricant into the bell housing, you might accidently lubricate the clutch and this will be extremely expensive to rectify. Similarly go easy on the grease only a dab of a high melting point grease is required.

Be aware I found the rubber boot very fiddly to relocate you need some patience and probably an angled mirror.

After you have relocated the rubber boot and while you have the grease out, its probably also a good idea to lubricate the point where the slave cylinder touches the release fork.

Any advice given is meant to be helpful and in good spirit. No liability is accepted for loss , damage or injury. WORK SAFELY

Many thanks for detailed reply.....that may well be the issue. I will have a go at that. Thanks Again. A