Celica Gen7 Info

[andycam06]

i have seen other threads about this but wana see what else to look out for.

iam thinking about buying a gen7 and want to get some info.

iam still looking so dont know if it will be the 140 or 190 yet but what problems come with either?

also what sort of milage are they known for? the one i was looking at had 110k miles, i know the rolla t-sport gets dodgy about the 130 mark and the oil pumps then to pack in so i assume the celica is the same ?

[Destabilizator]

Typical problem is the engines cylinders being burnt from cylinder shape to "egg" shape. So above all watch oil consumption (I do it after every ride), it takes up to 1L of oil per 1000km, if it's here or more, you'll need to get your engine changed for the one from Avensis (not good) or get your engine's cylinders padded with steel - none of the solutions is cheap. Just check oil frequently and carry a bottle in the trunk - many people destroyed their engines due sudden loss of oil. Other that this the car is very solid, safe and has surprisingly big trunk!

Also if you get to chose, get 192HP version. You will love it sooo much!

As a side note: if you can, use 100 octane fuel, that engine loves it and it pays out, because consumption goes down

[edwardio]

The pre facelift 140 engines (1999 – 2002) have a design flaw with the pistons. This can cause excessive oil consumption. Although all have the design issue, not all develop it. From my own experience & others, if the car is well maintained, serviced regularly, everything check regularly & not thrashed then it should be ok. However if it has the problem, then a new engine is required (2003 onwards). Do not get a reconditioned engine!

The pre facelift 190 engines (1999-2002) suffer from snapping lift bolts. The bolts were redesigned for the facelift engine and although are a lot stronger, they can brake but not as easily.

The radiators can go on these, generally in the bottom corners. You’ll noticed the coolant going down by not see any pools of coolant on the floor, or the heater & temp gauge will not work as you’d expect.

Other than that both the 140 & 190 are sound cars. In the real world the 140 is 1 second slower than a 190 (I’ve proven this with my old 140 against a number of 190’s on a drag strip). Although the 190’s have lift there is a dip in power just before this activates. This is what make lift feel like a kick of power.

My advice is this:

190 – Buy & fit Stage 2 cams. This will smooth out lift and provide some more low down torque

140 & 190 – Buy some uprated discs, pads, braided brake lines & 5.1 dot brake fluid. This is because the stock brakes are not that great.

190’s DO NOT make 190 on a dyno. You’ll be lucky to get 185 from a stock engine, but 175-180 is the normal figure to get. 140’s however produce pretty much 140 (give or take 2-3 bhp).

[guys got a new one]

Hi

I picked up my 2003 (140) celica today. Was wondering what sort of brake upgrade your talking about as i can feel the brakes are good but could be better. Any help would be great.

The pre facelift 140 engines (1999 – 2002) have a design flaw with the pistons. This can cause excessive oil consumption. Although all have the design issue, not all develop it. From my own experience & others, if the car is well maintained, serviced regularly, everything check regularly & not thrashed then it should be ok. However if it has the problem, then a new engine is required (2003 onwards). Do not get a reconditioned engine!

The pre facelift 190 engines (1999-2002) suffer from snapping lift bolts. The bolts were redesigned for the facelift engine and although are a lot stronger, they can brake but not as easily.

The radiators can go on these, generally in the bottom corners. You’ll noticed the coolant going down by not see any pools of coolant on the floor, or the heater & temp gauge will not work as you’d expect.

Other than that both the 140 & 190 are sound cars. In the real world the 140 is 1 second slower than a 190 (I’ve proven this with my old 140 against a number of 190’s on a drag strip). Although the 190’s have lift there is a dip in power just before this activates. This is what make lift feel like a kick of power.

My advice is this:

190 – Buy & fit Stage 2 cams. This will smooth out lift and provide some more low down torque

140 & 190 – Buy some uprated discs, pads, braided brake lines & 5.1 dot brake fluid. This is because the stock brakes are not that great.

190’s DO NOT make 190 on a dyno. You’ll be lucky to get 185 from a stock engine, but 175-180 is the normal figure to get. 140’s however produce pretty much 140 (give or take 2-3 bhp).

[edwardio]

It depends on your budget.

MINIMUM UPGRADE

Uprated discs & pads all round - you have a face lift so have the 275mm front discs. (EBC turbo grooved discs with Red stuff pads (at least) or Yellow stuff) For example

GENERAL UPGRADE

Uprated discs & pads all round

Briaded brake lines all round

5.1 dot brake fluid

MAX UPGRADE

Big Brake Kit (BBK) on the front (min 4 pot) - Wilwood are good

Uprated discs & pads rear

Briaded brake lines all round

5.1 dot brake fluid

[guys got a new one]

Thanks for the info very helpfull, Just one other question please..I've had new cars over the last few years this is my first second hand car for a lon time..The cluth feels sort of heavy to me is this a normal trate for this car?.

It depends on your budget.

MINIMUM UPGRADE

Uprated discs & pads all round - you have a face lift so have the 275mm front discs. (EBC turbo grooved discs with Red stuff pads (at least) or Yellow stuff) For example

GENERAL UPGRADE

Uprated discs & pads all round

Briaded brake lines all round

5.1 dot brake fluid

MAX UPGRADE

Big Brake Kit (BBK) on the front (min 4 pot) - Wilwood are good

Uprated discs & pads rear

Briaded brake lines all round

5.1 dot brake fluid

[edwardio]

Thanks for the info very helpfull, Just one other question please..I've had new cars over the last few years this is my first second hand car for a lon time..The cluth feels sort of heavy to me is this a normal trate for this car?.

Well it might be the clutch is starting to wear out. I bet it's still on the original. Are you able to get in the service history to see if it's already been replaced?

Is it stiff all the time or just when the car is cold etc?

[Destabilizator]

I'd say edwardio is right. At least on my girl the clutch is light and goes in quickly - one needs to be quite gentle, it took me a while to get used to it. It's the original clutch.

[guys got a new one]

its had a full service within the last 8months so i guess it would have been noticed then..it's not hard to use but stiffer than what im used to and all the gears engage ok..do you think i should get a new clutch fitted just in case?. have had a quote of £350.00 for a new one is that about the going rate?.

Thanks for the info very helpfull, Just one other question please..I've had new cars over the last few years this is my first second hand car for a lon time..The cluth feels sort of heavy to me is this a normal trate for this car?.

Well it might be the clutch is starting to wear out. I bet it's still on the original. Are you able to get in the service history to see if it's already been replaced?

Is it stiff all the time or just when the car is cold etc?

[Destabilizator]

its had a full service within the last 8months so i guess it would have been noticed then..it's not hard to use but stiffer than what im used to and all the gears engage ok..do you think i should get a new clutch fitted just in case?. have had a quote of £350.00 for a new one is that about the going rate?.

Thanks for the info very helpfull, Just one other question please..I've had new cars over the last few years this is my first second hand car for a lon time..The cluth feels sort of heavy to me is this a normal trate for this car?.

Well it might be the clutch is starting to wear out. I bet it's still on the original. Are you able to get in the service history to see if it's already been replaced?

Is it stiff all the time or just when the car is cold etc?

It wouldn't hurt to get it checked, would it? Or if you plan on more sporty upgrades, lightweight clutch won't hurt.

[mickdj]

Hi this is my first post and doin my reserch, have been aloud to replace my mondeo estate with a celica "the wife aproves all thow she wont be in it much"

its the 190 im goin for and will more than likely be 2000 - 2002 one with something like 90k on the clock, how can you tell if the lift bolts have snaped and is it a easy and cheap fix or engine apart job, and is it just the 140`s what can suffer from the oil problem is that all i realy need to look for other than general abuse thanks.

[edwardio]

Hi this is my first post and doin my reserch, have been aloud to replace my mondeo estate with a celica "the wife aproves all thow she wont be in it much" its the 190 im goin for and will more than likely be 2000 - 2002 one with something like 90k on the clock, how can you tell if the lift bolts have snaped and is it a easy and cheap fix or engine apart job, and is it just the 140`s what can suffer from the oil problem is that all i realy need to look for other than general abuse thanks.

Take the 190 to over 6k revs. You'll know if the bolts have snapped as you won't feel a big boost in power. Yeah it's not to hard to do and there are plenty of guides knocking about. The bolts themselves are cheap.

Yes it is only the pre-facelift 140's that suffer from the oil issue, though NOT ALL develop it.

[mickdj]

Hi thanks now im just waiting for my mondeo to sell

[Wheep]

Only problem I've had with my 190 in 2.5 years is the radiator and that's because we drove it all the way down to the South of France camping in it and it was vey warm down there :) At least it waited until we got home before breaking. £60 and other half's time later and all fixed