Low Price Fully Synthetic Oil, Too Good To Be True?

[Yaristotle]

My Yaris is 1.0 litre 2002 and has still yet to reach 33,000 miles and I cover less than three thousand miles per annum. Because this vehicle only gets the occasional long journey I make a point of changing the oil and filter twice a year. I use a Comma Oil 5w30 (mineral – but not currently able to provide precise details of its appellation) which I have always managed to get a decent price.

Recently I saw a 4 litre container of Carlube Triple R Fully Synthetic 5w30 reduced from £17.49 to £10.49. Curiously it was being sold alongside a 1litre container of the same at £10.99 as well as a 4 litre container of Carlube Triple R Semi Synthetic 10w40 at £29.99. This seemed astonishingly good value and substantially cheaper than the Comma oil, so I snapped one up. Having made the purchase I find myself a little concerned as to its quality, though hopefully this is unfounded. There are further details on the container: API SM (Petrol engines) API CF (Diesel engines) ACEA C3 low SAPS low

So I browsed the Carlube website . The first eight types are all 5w30 FS oils with a specific detail: C1, C2, C3, C4, GM, Ford, VW and HD. They are available in either 1 litre or 5 litre containers whereas mine is 4 litre. Visually my purchase looks most like the C1 or C4 but only gives the “C3” detail on the back of the container.

The C3 link shows that it is intended for BMWs and MBs. The only difference that I can see is that the API is SN, not SM. So perhaps my stuff is of a now deleted spec.

Sorry if all this all seems a bit tedious but can anyone see any reason for not using this oil? By the way, it is the C2 that is specified for Toyotas. Thanks in advance for any advice. ;)

[Mistermena]

My Yaris is 1.0 litre 2002 and has still yet to reach 33,000 miles and I cover less than three thousand miles per annum. Because this vehicle only gets the occasional long journey I make a point of changing the oil and filter twice a year. I use a Comma Oil 5w30 (mineral – but not currently able to provide precise details of its appellation) which I have always managed to get a decent price.

Recently I saw a 4 litre container of Carlube Triple R Fully Synthetic 5w30 reduced from £17.49 to £10.49. Curiously it was being sold alongside a 1litre container of the same at £10.99 as well as a 4 litre container of Carlube Triple R Semi Synthetic 10w40 at £29.99. This seemed astonishingly good value and substantially cheaper than the Comma oil, so I snapped one up. Having made the purchase I find myself a little concerned as to its quality, though hopefully this is unfounded. There are further details on the container: API SM (Petrol engines) API CF (Diesel engines) ACEA C3 low SAPS low

So I browsed the Carlube website . The first eight types are all 5w30 FS oils with a specific detail: C1, C2, C3, C4, GM, Ford, VW and HD. They are available in either 1 litre or 5 litre containers whereas mine is 4 litre. Visually my purchase looks most like the C1 or C4 but only gives the "C3" detail on the back of the container.

The C3 link shows that it is intended for BMWs and MBs. The only difference that I can see is that the API is SN, not SM. So perhaps my stuff is of a now deleted spec.

Sorry if all this all seems a bit tedious but can anyone see any reason for not using this oil? By the way, it is the C2 that is specified for Toyotas. Thanks in advance for any advice. ;)

If I remember correctly the C2 spec are the amount of ash content within the oil. Some DPF's (Derv)and CAT cant cope with oils like Motul V300 (Double Ester) because of this but you'll find with oils like this have a high TBN (Total Base Number) for anti-wear for the moving parts plus a high flash point and viscosity index. If your car is C3 spec and it states that on the container then you should be okay. Sounds like you just might have the older containers and thats why you got such a good deal. I'd be back there and buy a few more tbh.

One thing I would say is that if you've been using a mineral oil (Which is rubbish tbh) and you go for a synth oil you could find that your car starts to burn oil because the new oil has such a good additive package it could disolve the carbon diposits off the oil control rings. But after a while it should right itself as your car has only done 33k...I would consider an engine flush like Forte, but that is a personal view as others believe that its not worth it.

EDIT... I've just read that you state that your car is C2 spec. But I wouldn't have a problem using C3 spec on a C2 as there isn't a lot of difference between the two, especially if you've been using a mineral base oil...

[Geoff Peace]

My Yaris is 1.0 litre 2002 and has still yet to reach 33,000 miles and I cover less than three thousand miles per annum. Because this vehicle only gets the occasional long journey I make a point of changing the oil and filter twice a year. I use a Comma Oil 5w30 (mineral – but not currently able to provide precise details of its appellation) which I have always managed to get a decent price.

Recently I saw a 4 litre container of Carlube Triple R Fully Synthetic 5w30 reduced from £17.49 to £10.49. Curiously it was being sold alongside a 1litre container of the same at £10.99 as well as a 4 litre container of Carlube Triple R Semi Synthetic 10w40 at £29.99. This seemed astonishingly good value and substantially cheaper than the Comma oil, so I snapped one up. Having made the purchase I find myself a little concerned as to its quality, though hopefully this is unfounded. There are further details on the container: API SM (Petrol engines) API CF (Diesel engines) ACEA C3 low SAPS low

So I browsed the Carlube website . The first eight types are all 5w30 FS oils with a specific detail: C1, C2, C3, C4, GM, Ford, VW and HD. They are available in either 1 litre or 5 litre containers whereas mine is 4 litre. Visually my purchase looks most like the C1 or C4 but only gives the “C3” detail on the back of the container.

The C3 link shows that it is intended for BMWs and MBs. The only difference that I can see is that the API is SN, not SM. So perhaps my stuff is of a now deleted spec.

API.SM is a top grade oil, many manufacturers still specify SL even SJ. Why it is so cheap is a mystery! perhaps a loss leader I do not know!

Regards Geoff Peace.

Sorry if all this all seems a bit tedious but can anyone see any reason for not using this oil? By the way, it is the C2 that is specified for Toyotas. Thanks in advance for any advice. ;)

[Yaristotle]

@MistermenaIf your car is C3 spec and it states that on the container then you should be okay. Sounds like you just might have the older containers and thats why you got such a good deal. I'd be back there and buy a few more tbh.

I think you are probably correct. What’s that old maxim about gift horses?

One thing I would say is that if you've been using a mineral oil (Which is rubbish tbh) and you go for a synth oil you could find that your car starts to burn oil because the new oil has such a good additive package it could disolve the carbon diposits off the oil control rings. But after a while it should right itself as your car has only done 33k...I would consider an engine flush like Forte, but that is a personal view as others believe that its not worth it.

Actually the oil I described using as “mineral” was in fact semi-synthetic, so probably better. Though as somebody wisely pointed out on this forum a while back you cannot be sure of the amount of ‘semi-ness’. Would you expect the action you describe to still be possible, then?

EDIT... I've just read that you state that your car is C2 spec. But I wouldn't have a problem using C3 spec on a C2 as there isn't a lot of difference between the two, especially if you've been using a mineral base oil...

I never said that my car was C2 spec. I just made the point that the Carlube website describes their C2 product as suitable for Toyotas as it is too for Citroens, Peugeots and Renaults. Perhaps this mentioned in the Owners’ Manual? I will dig it out.

@Geoff Peace API.SM is a top grade oil, many manufacturers still specify SL even SJ. Why it is so cheap is a mystery! perhaps a loss leader I do not know!

I agree that the pricing is perplexing, hence my original doubt.

Thanks for your comments, chaps

[Mistermena]

@MistermenaIf your car is C3 spec and it states that on the container then you should be okay. Sounds like you just might have the older containers and thats why you got such a good deal. I'd be back there and buy a few more tbh.

I think you are probably correct. What's that old maxim about gift horses?

One thing I would say is that if you've been using a mineral oil (Which is rubbish tbh) and you go for a synth oil you could find that your car starts to burn oil because the new oil has such a good additive package it could disolve the carbon diposits off the oil control rings. But after a while it should right itself as your car has only done 33k...I would consider an engine flush like Forte, but that is a personal view as others believe that its not worth it.

Actually the oil I described using as "mineral" was in fact semi-synthetic, so probably better. Though as somebody wisely pointed out on this forum a while back you cannot be sure of the amount of 'semi-ness'. Would you expect the action you describe to still be possible, then?

EDIT... I've just read that you state that your car is C2 spec. But I wouldn't have a problem using C3 spec on a C2 as there isn't a lot of difference between the two, especially if you've been using a mineral base oil...

I never said that my car was C2 spec. I just made the point that the Carlube website describes their C2 product as suitable for Toyotas as it is too for Citroens, Peugeots and Renaults. Perhaps this mentioned in the Owners' Manual? I will dig it out.

@Geoff Peace API.SM is a top grade oil, many manufacturers still specify SL even SJ. Why it is so cheap is a mystery! perhaps a loss leader I do not know!

I agree that the pricing is perplexing, hence my original doubt.

Thanks for your comments, chaps

You will be okay if you used a semi-synth oil then so no need for the flush. And I believe it was me who pointed out that you never know how much synth is in semi-synth alone with my mate "Acetip" on here

Sounds like an amazing deal on the oil tbh... I would have thought the same as you. I went to Costco (A few years ago) and they had on sale 3x1ltr of Castrol EDGE (5w-30, VW 507 00 spec) for £9.99 and it costs £19 per ltr! So I went and bought £250 worth of it as I know I'll use it on me cars! Fill your boots while you get a chance I say! Did the same with some Motul V300 (5w-30) that was on sale off eBay for £10 for 2ltrs and it cost £40 approx. So bought a rook of that an all! Lol... Bit of an oil head me

[Yaristotle]

You will be okay if you used a semi-synth oil then so no need for the flush. And I believe it was me who pointed out that you never know how much synth is in semi-synth alone with my mate "Acetip" on here

Well said you and Acetip, then.

Sounds like an amazing deal on the oil tbh... I would have thought the same as you. I went to Costco (A few years ago) and they had on sale 3x1ltr of Castrol EDGE (5w-30, VW 507 00 spec) for £9.99 and it costs £19 per ltr! So I went and bought £250 worth of it as I know I'll use it on me cars! Fill your boots while you get a chance I say! Did the same with some Motul V300 (5w-30) that was on sale off eBay for £10 for 2ltrs and it cost £40 approx. So bought a rook of that an all! Lol... Bit of an oil head me

There were only three containers of this stuff of which I bought just one. When I returned they had unsurprisingly been sold. This was from that exclusive emporium for the discerning purchaser er…Sainsbury’s. Probably not worth hiring the low-loader until you have established that its in stock at your local branch, though. :D I will definitely keep an eye on the bay in future.

[Cherry Red Pocket Rocket]

I buy fully synthetic Siloklene from Opie Oils. May be a little pricy but the customer service is faultless and for peace of mind, priceless!

Sem-synthetic is rubbish. After all, its a bit of semi mixed with ordinary mineral oil and when that degrades, the whole thing is virtually useless. Oilman made a few excellent posts about that a while ago... I'll see if I can dig 'em out.

[Madasafish]

Sem-synthetic is rubbish. After all, its a bit of semi mixed with ordinary mineral oil and when that degrades, the whole thing is virtually useless.

There speaks someone who does not realise the standard oil for his Yars as recommended and used by Toyota is -- semi synthetic..

Makes you wonder how any Yaris engine lasts 20,000 miles when those incompetents at Toyota use the wrong oil...

(Let alone the 110k my son's has now reached..Must be luck)

[Mistermena]

There is no reason why not to use a full synth oil in my mind! Syth oil will out perform a semi oil every day of the week regards its VI index ect. My VW Polo gearbox has a semi synth oil recomendation but there is an option to use a full synth which I have used. Guess that why my gearbox has lasted over 206k of learner drivers where other instructors are on there 2nd and 3rd boxes.

I'd use a synth! But others do have different views on these types of lubes. :)

[Cherry Red Pocket Rocket]

Thank you, Mistermena.

Toyota and other manufacturers use semi-synth because it is cheaper than a decent fully synthetic oil.

My preference for fully synthetic is that it doen't degrade over time, so it will offer the same level of protection right up to the next service. Sem-synthetic doesn't because the mineral oil breaks down quite quickly.

[Mistermena]

This true that some manufacturers use semi synth oils to cut down the cost of ownership. But some main dealers (Good ones) use full synths and other use a semi! I'd always go to a dealer that used a full or I'd just take my own jungle juice. In fact if you take your own you can get a massive discount on the service price they quote

[Gasmater]

Toyota recomends semi, not a problem but full syn is better all round and cold start's

during winter