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Charliefarlies Guide To The Toyota 2Ad Diesel Engine And Its Issues.


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Posted

T19000-OR070-CU unit.

That is an Optifit engine, albeit the number you have quoted "CU" is for the "old unit return"

Kingo :thumbsup:

Posted

Thank you Kingo, I have one of your 'Chips' attached to my engine, it made a significant difference to fuel consumption and made the car much smoother to drive.

Just like to say that really like my car which I hope to keep for many more years and I really appreciate the way Toyota have managed the engine issue.

Posted

Thank you Kingo, I have one of your 'Chips' attached to my engine, it made a significant difference to fuel consumption and made the car much smoother to drive.

Thanks

I wonder, would you just post up your thoughts about our chip kits on this thread?

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=144258&hl=

I have a customer looking to buy one but wants annecdotal evidence from users

Thanks

Kingo :thumbsup:

Posted

Thank you Kingo, I have one of your 'Chips' attached to my engine, it made a significant difference to fuel consumption and made the car much smoother to drive.

Thanks

I wonder, would you just post up your thoughts about our chip kits on this thread?

http://www.toyotaown...topic=144258=

I have a customer looking to buy one but wants annecdotal evidence from users

Thanks

Kingo :thumbsup:

John I have added to the thread posted ......

Posted

I find this all very strange. I know several people that have had these engines fitted and only one had a question mark on it. There appeared to be an oil leak but we think (and it is early days) that oil was spilled when it was filled.

The others have all been spot on and use no noticeable amount of oil.


Posted

How I wish I'd come across this thread before I bought my Corolla Verso 2.2D, 2007 (57 reg.) a few weeks back!

I noticed it's burning oil and I'm having to top it up a little every week, I haven't kept a note of how much though, but will do this from now on.

Today the car felt a bit jerky and then the Engine Management Light came on. After a few minutes, the Traction Control Off Light came on, as well as some other light below it, "VSC". I'm going to borrow a friend's basic VAG Code Reader to see what code's stored, I assume the codes it will give will be accurate for a Toyota as well, as I believe they're generic?

Does the above sound like this engine issue that other people have been having? If so, how helpful are Toyota with this issue and do I have to pay anything up-front to Toyota, like a check-up fee or something for them to diagnose the problem the problem in the first place? I assume if it is the engine then I wouldn't have to pay any fee?

The reason I stumbled across this thread was because the 2nd gear crunches when the car's cold, but the when the car's warmed up it doesn't crunch anymore, but is still a bit clunky. I've been told that I should try replacing the Gearbox Oil. When I was searching this forum for what gearbox oil to use (have decided on Castrol fully synthetic), this post also came up in the results!

Thanks in advance for your help.

Posted

Toyota are very helpful if it meets the criteria.

It would help if your profile said where you are.

Posted

How I wish I'd come across this thread before I bought my Corolla Verso 2.2D, 2007 (57 reg.) a few weeks back!

I noticed it's burning oil and I'm having to top it up a little every week, I haven't kept a note of how much though, but will do this from now on.

Today the car felt a bit jerky and then the Engine Management Light came on. After a few minutes, the Traction Control Off Light came on, as well as some other light below it, "VSC". I'm going to borrow a friend's basic VAG Code Reader to see what code's stored, I assume the codes it will give will be accurate for a Toyota as well, as I believe they're generic?

Does the above sound like this engine issue that other people have been having? If so, how helpful are Toyota with this issue and do I have to pay anything up-front to Toyota, like a check-up fee or something for them to diagnose the problem the problem in the first place? I assume if it is the engine then I wouldn't have to pay any fee?

The reason I stumbled across this thread was because the 2nd gear crunches when the car's cold, but the when the car's warmed up it doesn't crunch anymore, but is still a bit clunky. I've been told that I should try replacing the Gearbox Oil. When I was searching this forum for what gearbox oil to use (have decided on Castrol fully synthetic), this post also came up in the results!

Thanks in advance for your help.

Looked it up from your IP address.. You need to talk to your local Toyota dealer and they will run some tests. If something sounds fishy like they want to strip it down or charge you something, come back to us.

Posted

Thanks, finally figured out how to update my profile, couldn't see the Edit button! Am in West Sussex.

Posted

Have just connected the VAG code reader to my car and it gave the code P1238. Have looked this up online and its description is:

"P1238 Cyl. 2 - Fuel Inj. Circ. Open Circ"

Using a VAG code reader is OK isn't it? If not I'll try and find someone local who has a different machine to read the codes for me.

Does that sound related to the engine issue?

The car drives OK at the moment, can't see any problem with, but I've only driven it locally, so haven't driven at over 40mph since the light came on. Could this be related the Traction Control Off and VSC lights?

Will ring the main dealer tomorrow or Monday to see what they say.

Thanks.

Posted

OK you do seem to have an injector problem but be warned these are expensive - about £500 each so not good to go guessing at it.

If your car qualifies for a new engine, they may well put the other bits right within the scope so I would phone them up and sound them out. I have created a pdf from the manual for you to have a read.

P1238.pdf

Posted

How I wish I'd come across this thread before I bought my Corolla Verso 2.2D, 2007 (57 reg.) a few weeks back!

I noticed it's burning oil and I'm having to top it up a little every week, I haven't kept a note of how much though, but will do this from now on.

Today the car felt a bit jerky and then the Engine Management Light came on. After a few minutes, the Traction Control Off Light came on, as well as some other light below it, "VSC". I'm going to borrow a friend's basic VAG Code Reader to see what code's stored, I assume the codes it will give will be accurate for a Toyota as well, as I believe they're generic?

Does the above sound like this engine issue that other people have been having? If so, how helpful are Toyota with this issue and do I have to pay anything up-front to Toyota, like a check-up fee or something for them to diagnose the problem the problem in the first place? I assume if it is the engine then I wouldn't have to pay any fee?

The reason I stumbled across this thread was because the 2nd gear crunches when the car's cold, but the when the car's warmed up it doesn't crunch anymore, but is still a bit clunky. I've been told that I should try replacing the Gearbox Oil. When I was searching this forum for what gearbox oil to use (have decided on Castrol fully synthetic), this post also came up in the results!

Thanks in advance for your help.

Firstly is your car under warranty if you only bought it a few weeks ago ?

Typical symptoms are oil burning and the often seen expulsion of coolant from the outlet on the expansion tank ..

Investigation of you car if its because of oil burning is not charged for but the investigation of the fault code P1238 is very likely to be charged for.. Some charge some don't. Most I believe refund the instigation money (If charged) if you have the work carried out at that franchise.

If only DTC P1238 (injector malfunction) has been stored, a fuel injector

mechanical malfunction or insufficient compression (valve clearance, etc.) has

probably occurred. An open or short malfunction of the ECM, EDU or fuel

injector circuit is unlikely.

DTC P1238 Injector Malfunction

P1238

Things point however to the injector being at fault as pointed out above.

Posted

Thanks for the replies, including the PDF doc. The car is still under warranty. I've checked the warranty agreement though, which lists what's covered, but the injectors aren't included in the list. The car seems to drive fine though. I'll try clearing the code and then see if the engine management light re-appears or not. Do you think the Traction Control Off and VSC lights are related to this injector problem, i.e. the car needs the injectors to be working properly in order for the traction control to work properly? Will call the Service dept. of the main dealer on Monday now, as they're closed now. Thanks.

Posted

How about checking what is NOT covered ? Thats the problem with warranty's they cover so little in reality..

Of course the VSC and Traction control lights are relevant to the injector thats why they come on and interrogation of the ECU shows a relevant fault code..

It is possible the VSC lights can come on and you can clear the codes and all will be well.. I suspect though it will happen again..


Posted

I cleared the code and have been driving it for just under an hour, all 3 lights have gone off now and didn't light up again. I wonder if it was just a problem with the fuel I last fuelled up with (Esso)?

The warranty doesn't have a section saying what's "not" covered, it just starts off saying "Only the following listed parts are covered by this agreement." and then it lists a load of parts, Here's what's covered under the "Fuel System" and "Engine" sections:

Fuel System (petrol/diesel) - Mechanical/electrical fuel pump, air flow meter, E.G.R. valve, idle control valve (excluding injectors).

Engine - Rocker assembly, inlet and exhaust valves, valve guides and springs (excluding burnt valves and decokes), cylinder head (excluding cracks and overheating damage), stretched head bolts, push rods, camshaft and cam followers, timing gears, chains and tensioner, oil pump, pistons and rings, cylinder bores, gudgeon pins, con rods and bearings, crankshaft and bearings, flywheel and ring gear, distributor drive.

Posted

There is duff fuel about which has been causing fuel filter problems so get that changed.

Don't put any old oil in that gearbox - you need straight 75W and keep in mind that many of that era were notchy through 1st and 2nd.

Posted

Fuel System (petrol/diesel) - Mechanical/electrical fuel pump, air flow meter, E.G.R. valve, idle control valve (excluding injectors).

​Well the above says its Not covered which is what I meant.... Lets hope it doesn't happen again !

Posted

Oh right, thanks very much for the info, will get that changed.

Not sure what you mean by "straight" 75W though, I was told I need to get 75W-90, my local gearbox company said they use Castrol fully synthetic, so I was planning on getting 3 cans of that (the Castrol site says I need 2.3L):

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-739-castrol-syntrans-multivehicle-75w-90-fully-synthetic-mtf-replaces-smx-s-75w-85.aspx

Is there one you recommend which performs better than the above, e.g. at lower temperatures, thought I'm not sure what temperature range the Castrol works in! Thanks.

Posted

Fuel System (petrol/diesel) - Mechanical/electrical fuel pump, air flow meter, E.G.R. valve, idle control valve (excluding injectors).

​Well the above says its Not covered which is what I meant.... Lets hope it doesn't happen again !

Oh ok, I see what you meant now. I wasn't even looking in the Fuel System section, I was only looking in the Engine section until I read your previous post and then looked in every section.

Posted

If you put a multigrade oil in that gearbox you won't get gears in cold weather. It should be only 75 grade oil - not 75/ something just 75.

It pours like water but it is the proper oil.

Posted

Oh ok, lucky you told me that then! Have you got a link to a recommended oil or is this something I'd need to get from the main dealer? Thanks.

Posted

You can also order it in 1 litre tubs off Toyota (I'm a bit wary of putting other brands in - what is "ester" for example?). It takes 2.1 litres so you can buy a third one and keep it for next time. However, my feeling is that at 2 litres it will be close to full. I seem to remember last time I did one I couldn't get the last 0.1 litre in! Its about an egg cup full.

Posted

Another oil thread ?

Posted

Another oil thread ?

:thumbsup:

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