Fault Code Po1155

[spedo]

Hi

Have an engine light DTC code P1155 and can't find explanation.

Other code is P0161 02 sensor. Does anyone have ant ideas,

Many thanks

[anchorman]

P1155 is bank 1 sensor 2

P0161 is bank 2 sensor 2

Look in the pdf. You have the 1AZ-FE engine;

4.3 oxygen sensor location.pdf

[spedo]

Yes I have the 1AZ-FE engine.

Thank you for your informative reply.

[anchorman]

No probs and welcome to the club.

[spedo]

I think it odd that bank one and 2 would be defective at the same time. These sensors are the four wire type, are they heated, if so I will need to check there is voltage present. Getting around 1300rpm until up to operating temp then normal idle which makes me think that the O2 sensors are not heating up causing over fuelling until the manifold and CAT get hot,any thoughts?

[Joylove]

All four heater coils were gone on mine when I got it. The genuine DENSO units are about 4R for the top pair and 15R for the bottom pair; measured between the two black wires. Open circuit = failed heater and car won't go closed loop. Worldcarparts.

[spedo]

I agree, not going into closed loop, needs sorting otherwise all this overfuelling will knacker the CAT eventually.

thanks for your reply.

[Joylove]

I think I put the part numbers you need in here.

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=128709

[mystic]

I just had to the exact same thing on mine, both the same sensors.

Fairly easy to change (although one of mine picked up the threads coming out so was a bit of pain) they will set you back around £70 each.

[spedo]

Once again thanks for the info, I will get back to the forum and let you know how I got on.

[mystic]

Make sure you shop around, your local parts place will probably quote you close to £140 each make sure you say you want them at trade or do what i like to do and say that you know somewhere else that will do them at £70 (which isn't actually a lie) Also i would recommend going for denso

[spedo]

Make sure you shop around, your local parts place will probably quote you close to £140 each make sure you say you want them at trade or do what i like to do and say that you know somewhere else that will do them at £70 (which isn't actually a lie) Also i would recommend going for denso

Will do thanks.

[spedo]

P1155 is bank 1 sensor 2

P0161 is bank 2 sensor 2

Look in the pdf. You have the 1AZ-FE engine;

4.3 oxygen sensor location.pdf

Hi Don

Can you confirm P1155 is Bank 1 sensor 2 and not a typo, only this document http://alflash.com.ua/OBDII/DTCe1.pdf shows P1155 as Bank 2 sensor 1 ? I am just about to order from Lambda Power and I don't want to make any expensive mistakes.

If indeed P1155 is Bank 2 sensor 1 and P0161 is bank 2 sensor 2 then I am going to order drivers side (R/H) bank 2 upper and lower sensors, would you confer with that?

Thanks again,

Steve

[anchorman]

Toyota Specific DTC Codes.pdf

P0161 is in here;

DTC - Petrol engine DTCs.pdf

Or both in here (be sure to read P codes as B and C codes are shown);

DTCe1.pdf

[spedo]

Hi Don

I am sure they build in complication to put off DIY. I thought these vehicles had to be EBOD complient where they were not allowed to use emission control codes with different meanings, but I guess they get away with it because there are 2 pre and 2 post CAT sensors. If you use Auto Data it is opposite to Toyota data, which can easily fool you into buying the wrong part.

One other question if I may, I need a side light bulb holder, will I have to go to a stealer, sorry dealer to get one or is there somewhere else I can get one?

Thanks for the extra info,

Steve

[spedo]

Well the sensors came today from Lamdapower (link below), very quick and helpful service, quite easy job to do. The lower nearside L/H side needed a 22m ring spanner becuase of clearance problems. The lower drivers side R/H needed 22m special lamda socket with a slit to accomodate the wire. When I change lamda's I warm up the engine and then spray some WD40 on the thread when hot. If you can spray them for a couple of days before fitting all the better, but it all depends on how much grease was put on the thread when first fitted. The engine management light has now gone out and tick over is better now vehicle is going into closed loop. By the way the side light bulb holder was £20.00 from the dealer.

http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/az2.asp?manu=Toyota&model_grouping=RAV4&engine_code=1AZ-FE

[anchorman]

Sorry Steve I haven't had much chance to look in this week but glad you are sorted now.

[spedo]

No problem, thanks again to you and everyone else for their input.

[spedo]

Hi all

Everything is not well, the vehicle has been running very well but the light has come on again and the code P1155 (Heater malfunction) I know the sensors are in good condition because they are new, so I took another look at the voltage side that powers the heater coils. All power feeds at the harness plugs show a good voltage bar one, so I at least have isolated the problem as a power failure. There only appears to be one fuse and one relay to all four plugs so I am looking for a broken wire somewhere. Can anyone tell me if the power control circuit is power or ground controlled?

Thanks

[spedo]

I have solved the power problem by making a temp earth. The light went out for a while but has now come back on. Even with the light on the vehicle is running well and the cold start is normal. I suspect the ground signal return from the heater coil is not reaching the ECM causing the light to come on. The blue wire is the signal return wire for the 02 sensor and the white wire must be the heater retun signal wire. It is really begining to annoy me now. Does anyone have a pin out wireing diagram of the ECM?

Thanks

[anchorman]

I'll look later. Send me a pm with your email so if the files are big I can get them to you.

[spedo]

Thanks Don, I will do that.