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Supercharger Question


tarquin
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No I haven't braved the weather to fit it yet. Thinking about it poses a question or two. Assuming it works to a fashion,and yes I know your all sceptical, As its an electric one triggered by a micro switch via a relay, I have been wondering about, What revs do I trigger it at?

If I was to mechanically connect it to the accelerator pedal and say come in at 4k,that would probably work in "drive " mode but, what about in "S" mode ? It virtually starts at 4k, reaching nearly 6k at 100mph. At 70 or there abouts, in 'S" mode it is at 4k which means that it would be on all the time and the spec says only to use it up to 30sec in one go. If I set it to come on at say 4.7k then it would not get used when in "drive " mode. I was hoping for it to help when pulling away at busy round a bouts. Unless I set it to come in at 4.7k and attack round a bouts in "S" mode? Or a button on the dash . Thoughts appreciated

David

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Sorry David, I would love to help but aero engines, the tufbofan type, are/were more my thing.

I woudn't be able to give sensible advice about your forced air system.

I am sure there will be plenty of suggestions coming soon!

John

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cheers John, Not too happy with a button on the dash idea as it means hands off the wheel when i hit 60 in 2 seconds lol

David

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Do you have a link or any information on this Supercharger?

Just curious, that's all. :)

Craig.

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If you are aiming for it to start at 4k when the S mode kicks in, wouldn't you really want it already spinning for added benefit?

Fish

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No I haven't braved the weather to fit it yet. Thinking about it poses a question or two. Assuming it works to a fashion,and yes I know your all sceptical, As its an electric one triggered by a micro switch via a relay, I have been wondering about, What revs do I trigger it at?

If I was to mechanically connect it to the accelerator pedal and say come in at 4k,that would probably work in "drive " mode but, what about in "S" mode ? It virtually starts at 4k, reaching nearly 6k at 100mph. At 70 or there abouts, in 'S" mode it is at 4k which means that it would be on all the time and the spec says only to use it up to 30sec in one go. If I set it to come on at say 4.7k then it would not get used when in "drive " mode. I was hoping for it to help when pulling away at busy round a bouts. Unless I set it to come in at 4.7k and attack round a bouts in "S" mode? Or a button on the dash . Thoughts appreciated

David

As I said before David, I have already fitted one about 3 years ago on a Toyota Hilux. You have a micro switch that connects to the accelerator peddle. You can set it to come on at various points, but it has to be at the top or almost top end. Basically it switches on at full throttle. You can't have it come at low revs, they are not designed to do that. When I first set it up, I was excited to take it down the road for the first time. Well I put my foot right down to the floor, heard it switch on as it makes a lot of noise. It did absolutely nothing for extra power. I disconnected it and tried it as it was. It had the same power as before. I re connected it and tried again. Nothing happened for extra power. I left it on for a couple of weeks as it did sound good. One of the blades broke and it then made a nasty noise. That was when I removed it for good. Waste of money for me and it was meant to be the best ones on the market and they have a flashy video too. I felt scammed. They won't let you leave a bad review on their YouTube video either, only good ones. Total rubbish and that's why turbo and super charger installations are so much more in cost.

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Ok Marc I only bought it for a play and a bit of fun. I don't think mine came from the same source as yours but thats not to say its any better.

david

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No I haven't braved the weather to fit it yet. Thinking about it poses a question or two. Assuming it works to a fashion,and yes I know your all sceptical, As its an electric one triggered by a micro switch via a relay, I have been wondering about, What revs do I trigger it at?

If I was to mechanically connect it to the accelerator pedal and say come in at 4k,that would probably work in "drive " mode but, what about in "S" mode ? It virtually starts at 4k, reaching nearly 6k at 100mph. At 70 or there abouts, in 'S" mode it is at 4k which means that it would be on all the time and the spec says only to use it up to 30sec in one go. If I set it to come on at say 4.7k then it would not get used when in "drive " mode. I was hoping for it to help when pulling away at busy round a bouts. Unless I set it to come in at 4.7k and attack round a bouts in "S" mode? Or a button on the dash . Thoughts appreciated

David

Well, I know nothing about adding extra power through the means your Supercharger is supposed to give. However, I'm sorry to say this David, I think it's a Dodo. I can see why you would want the extra power, and the idea sounds attractive. But, I reckon it's not going to be any use for what you want it for, quick get away's at junctions and roundabouts, as no one will let you on. I think to get a proper working 'power boost' you would need a large catapult and someone to set you off... that was a joke. What about a Nitrous kit? If you don't use the back seats... there could be enough room under there for a small set up? Wot ya fink o that then?

BTW: Off topic, has anyone watched Mr's Browns Boy's off the Beeb? I think it's f.e.c.k.i.n.g great.

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Dan, Normally i would poodle off down the motorway in "Drive mode" then maybe to go up hill or accelerate past someone i would kick it into "S mode". I could be doing 2k @ 60mph but when put in "S mode" it immediately goes to 4k but with the ability to accelerate to 100 and beyond which is about 5.7k flat out.Think in "B mode" it soft rev limits. will check tomorrow.

David

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Na just a leccy thing. I am going to plumb it and wire it and feed the control cables from under the bonnet to the cockpit and test it before any sort of installation

David

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Good luck with it! Heard these things either give no effect or restrict air flow which then decreases performance. But you can probs spice it up a bit with your know how. If you feel an increase i may be tempted too haha

J

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Ok Marc I only bought it for a play and a bit of fun. I don't think mine came from the same source as yours but thats not to say its any better.

david

Yes but all those, let's call them electric forced air pumps or if you really like "Electric SuperChargers" work the same. It has to be used with the gas peddle to work and that's at full throttle. Being you are clever, maybe you could get it to work electronically, let's say about 5000 RPM from the rev counter. But it will still be the same result, in that it forces air, but not fuel at the higher rev range. Maybe, just maybe, being I had 2500cc with diesel and you have 1000cc with petrol, you might get something extra. The one I had looked just as well built, if not better than your photo. I did see mine in the flesh though. Here is a link. You can add 2 together for more power. 0 to 60 in 1 second I think HeHe!!!

http://www.electricsupercharger.com/products.html

Marc

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Thanks marc . If i get any result and its useful, I could get the rev information from the OBD socket and digitally control it. we will see.

David

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If it didn't have a 30 second usage limit you could have set it up to switch on when engine load (not rpm or throttle position, but true engine load) rose above a pre-determined level. Along with a remap that might work reasonably well.

If you had the manual gearbox instead of a CVT you'd have more control over the engine rpm at whatever road speed...

Maybe you could have an on/off button in the cabin, and only use it in one drive mode? Would make it easier to set up using only engine rpm at least.

Or wire it up to the cars throttle position sensor (better yet, map sensor or mass air flow meter, which ever the iQ might have) to regulate the 'chargers power. Set the rev limit low so it runs when you want it to and have a button which activates it for 30 seconds. Would make a smoother power delivery that way and might not upset the engine ECU as much. Adding even more electrickery to the set up, you could possibly add a temperature sensor to the 'charger so rather than time or a button allowing its use, it could be active all the time so long as it remains under a certain temperture. I'm sure a bit of experimenting would get you a safe temperture reading. You'd then just need a light in the cabin telling you whether it was active or not. As to how you'd manage all that, I'm no expert in electrics but I'm pretty sure it could be done.

And the reason to Mark not seeing any benefit with one of these may be down to it being a diesel. Petrols are throttled by air. Diesels are not, they are governed by fuel. You put more air into a modern petrol engine, and the ECU will adjust its fuel/air mixture to hit whats known as Lambda 1. Diesels run with excess air all the time, so to get more power you must put in more fuel. That's why turbo diesel remaps are more effective than NASP petrol. All they need do is inject more fuel and turn up the turbo boost (more air which prevents black smoke).

So, as long as the 'charger does improve the amount of air going into the engine and if the ECU can cope, David should see a power gain.

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Kip, Thank you very much for your suggestions. As far as re-mapping goes, it is my understanding that the ECU in the iQ is constantly mapping itself so a fixed new map won't work as it would be over written.The 30 sec timer on a cabin switch, perhaps linked to temperature is an easy electronic thing for me to do. Hopefully next week the temperature will have risen enough for me to set it up to test it.

Let you know what i find

David

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Kip, Thank you very much for your suggestions. As far as re-mapping goes, it is my understanding that the ECU in the iQ is constantly mapping itself so a fixed new map won't work as it would be over written.The 30 sec timer on a cabin switch, perhaps linked to temperature is an easy electronic thing for me to do. Hopefully next week the temperature will have risen enough for me to set it up to test it.

Let you know what i find

David

Interesting about the constant mapping. Do both engines work the same way?

As for electric push button switch, I would just try it as is., with the foot switch. It come on at all, until you put your foot to the bottom.

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Ok saw an opportunity this morning and fitted the electric supercharger. Fitted it just to test so had the micro switch cable out of the bonnet and in through the door.I can say there is a difference. But, it is in the top speed power band.and the ECU is slow (1-2)sec to react. The power comes in a bit sooner, normally with just the K&N filter, in "S: mode it accelerates with a bit of a kick from 80mph to 110mph. With the charger on that acceleration band is available at 70mph. Remember the biggest difference is was made by going to the K&N. Before the car used to "run out of steam" at about 82. Now it accelerates at 80 all the way to 110.The "power" supplied by the charger is not really where i wanted it. Having said that I have taken to using B and S modes to get away from round a bouts. It may be as suggested in the instructions that one should disconnect the Battery to give the ECU a chance to re-build the map. I am not sure if that applies to the iQ as it continually re-builds its self.And I am not sure it makes sense anyway as, How can The ECU re-map when it only comes in occasionally etc. Some pic's of temp install

David

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Ok saw an opportunity this morning and fitted the electric supercharger. Fitted it just to test so had the micro switch cable out of the bonnet and in through the door.I can say there is a difference. But, it is in the top speed power band.and the ECU is slow (1-2)sec to react. The power comes in a bit sooner, normally with just the K&N filter, in "S: mode it accelerates with a bit of a kick from 80mph to 110mph. With the charger on that acceleration band is available at 70mph. Remember the biggest difference is was made by going to the K&N. Before the car used to "run out of steam" at about 82. Now it accelerates at 80 all the way to 110.The "power" supplied by the charger is not really where i wanted it. Having said that I have taken to using B and S modes to get away from round a bouts. It may be as suggested in the instructions that one should disconnect the battery to give the ECU a chance to re-build the map. I am not sure if that applies to the iQ as it continually re-builds its self.And I am not sure it makes sense anyway as, How can The ECU re-map when it only comes in occasionally etc. Some pic's of temp install

David

It looks nice and neat in the engine bay David

We are going to have to book you in at Santa Pod now, to see if you can beat the Mini and the iQ quarter of a mile times.

It would be interesting to see how much more power and performance yours has now over a standard iQ1 & 2 and iQ3 manuals or autos. Bearing in mind that none of these would hit 110mph.

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Do you have a picture of the K&N filter setup before you removed it David? Was it a cone filter on a pipe or a replacement to fit in the standard air box?

I have looked on the K&N website and cant see anything for my 1.3 engine unfortunately?

Craig.

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From my understanding, The K&N only fits the 1ltr due to the space available. The original back of the filter housing is removed and a support bar is fitted to the engine block, The filter is mounted via a 60mm tube and a hose is fitted under the front of the car and up into the engine bay to direct cool air to the filter.

David

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Please do not do this... it really is rubbish...

Get an orderly Turbo... that is activated by the exhaust ... like the Smart ForTwo.... dúhh...

With an heat exchange device.... to cool the incoming air that is compressed.....

Peter

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For the people who say you cant hit 100mph+ in an IQ2...you can!! I've done it, obviously on a private road lol

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I can also backup Sally#s claims. It's good to be close to and airfield. ;)

Fish

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