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1999 1.6 Avensis Problem...


johnny c
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hello all.

ive recently bought myself a 1999 1.6 4afe avensis as a run around.

1st porblem ive found with it(other than someone used the interior as an ashtray!) is that when the engine warms up,it wont rev past 4500rpm.

the car can rev quite lumpy through the rev range also.

so i took it upon myself to do a diagnostic check,which gave me a following faults.

14

31

33

41.

can anyone shed any light on this for me?

thanks very much.

johnny

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Did you re-set the diagnostics after reading them? Old codes will be stored until it is re-set and that is quite a range of codes. Personally I would disconnect the Battery for around 5 mins, run the car for a day or so and then re-read. You could be chasing old codes and fixing problems that are no longer there. If I don't know the history of a car I always read and record any fault codes and then re-set, run the car again and re-read the codes just to make sure I'm not looking into faults that have already been repaired.

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ive reset the Battery,all faults are now clear,someone was dicking around with a plug and disconnected it,thats why those faults had shown.

but the car still 'misfires',it rev'd to 5800 rpm yesterday,then later would not go past 4000 rpm.

ive googled it and read someone who had a very similer problem, replace the crankshaft sensor,which cured the fault.

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ive reset the Battery,all faults are now clear,someone was dicking around with a plug and disconnected it,thats why those faults had shown.

but the car still 'misfires',it rev'd to 5800 rpm yesterday,then later would not go past 4000 rpm.

ive googled it and read someone who had a very similer problem, replace the crankshaft sensor,which cured the fault.

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anyone shed any light on this?

also noticed it takes a few turns before it starts,it can be a little lazy.

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I've had to replace a couple of pencil coils too. If you don't have access to a code reader, run the engine and disconnect the injector connectors one at a time. if the engine note doesn't change with one unplugged then that's the cylinder with the fault! You can't disconnect the coils one at a time because they work in pairs. ;) Once fixed, don't forget disconnect the Battery again to re-set the codes!

I recently picked up a coil on eBay for £8 + £1.99 p&p, but be sure to check the serial numbers on your old one. ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've had to replace a couple of pencil coils too. If you don't have access to a code reader, run the engine and disconnect the injector connectors one at a time. if the engine note doesn't change with one unplugged then that's the cylinder with the fault! You can't disconnect the coils one at a time because they work in pairs. ;) Once fixed, don't forget disconnect the battery again to re-set the codes!

I recently picked up a coil on ebay for £8 + £1.99 p&p, but be sure to check the serial numbers on your old one. ;)

why would the engine note change when its idleing fine?

are you talking about a vvti engine or the 4afe?

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Sorry my mistake, vvti engine. I'm getting mixed up with another thread!

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ive reset the battery,all faults are now clear,someone was dicking around with a plug and disconnected it,thats why those faults had shown.

but the car still 'misfires',it rev'd to 5800 rpm yesterday,then later would not go past 4000 rpm.

ive googled it and read someone who had a very similer problem, replace the crankshaft sensor,which cured the fault.

I think that might have been me.

I would suggest that you have the crank sensor problem too. Symptoms you describe are exactly like mine except for the slow starting bit. Mine was fine this way but I did find that most affected by a faulty Crank Sensor, either were slow in starting or in some cases, did not start at all.

The part is dealer only, or at least I couldn't find it elsewhere. You might get lucky in a breakers but you could be getting the same as what you have too.

Changing is simple, the only challenge is the access!

Let us know how you get on.

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ive reset the battery,all faults are now clear,someone was dicking around with a plug and disconnected it,thats why those faults had shown.

but the car still 'misfires',it rev'd to 5800 rpm yesterday,then later would not go past 4000 rpm.

ive googled it and read someone who had a very similer problem, replace the crankshaft sensor,which cured the fault.

I think that might have been me.

I would suggest that you have the crank sensor problem too. Symptoms you describe are exactly like mine except for the slow starting bit. Mine was fine this way but I did find that most affected by a faulty Crank Sensor, either were slow in starting or in some cases, did not start at all.

The part is dealer only, or at least I couldn't find it elsewhere. You might get lucky in a breakers but you could be getting the same as what you have too.

Changing is simple, the only challenge is the access!

Let us know how you get on.

yes,think i seen it on boards.ie!

yeah,the sensor seems to be dealer only.

i removed it and cleaned it,didnt make much difference.

what i have noticed,i tried reving it out as far as it would go in a few gears,and can smell the cat,it really stinks,and the heat coming from it is serious,so im now wondering could it be blocked and this is whats causing it?

doubtfull as you would think it wouldnt rev at all,never mind to the redline at times.

going to remove it and take a look at it first.

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ive reset the battery,all faults are now clear,someone was dicking around with a plug and disconnected it,thats why those faults had shown.

but the car still 'misfires',it rev'd to 5800 rpm yesterday,then later would not go past 4000 rpm.

ive googled it and read someone who had a very similer problem, replace the crankshaft sensor,which cured the fault.

I think that might have been me.

I would suggest that you have the crank sensor problem too. Symptoms you describe are exactly like mine except for the slow starting bit. Mine was fine this way but I did find that most affected by a faulty Crank Sensor, either were slow in starting or in some cases, did not start at all.

The part is dealer only, or at least I couldn't find it elsewhere. You might get lucky in a breakers but you could be getting the same as what you have too.

Changing is simple, the only challenge is the access!

Let us know how you get on.

yes,think i seen it on boards.ie!

yeah,the sensor seems to be dealer only.

i removed it and cleaned it,didnt make much difference.

what i have noticed,i tried reving it out as far as it would go in a few gears,and can smell the cat,it really stinks,and the heat coming from it is serious,so im now wondering could it be blocked and this is whats causing it?

doubtfull as you would think it wouldnt rev at all,never mind to the redline at times.

going to remove it and take a look at it first.

I think I posted it on Boards as well as here somewhere but anyway.

Now, with my crank problem, when the engine was cold, I could redline it, BUT when it was up at normal operating temperature the max I could get was 3,500 to 4,000 rpm. I didn't hang round for it to get any worse. I also noticed the stink of the CAT at the time but not sure whether it was related or not.

You're right in saying that if the CAT was blocked then you wouldn't be able to redline it at all, well, beyond the first 30 seconds after starting anyway!

Cleaning the Crank sensor is a waste of time, it's not that kind of sensor, in that its all sealed and self contained. Pity you couldn't have borrowed one when you went to the trouble of removing yours to clean it.

Still, I would put my money on the crank sensor being your problem.

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ive reset the battery,all faults are now clear,someone was dicking around with a plug and disconnected it,thats why those faults had shown.

but the car still 'misfires',it rev'd to 5800 rpm yesterday,then later would not go past 4000 rpm.

ive googled it and read someone who had a very similer problem, replace the crankshaft sensor,which cured the fault.

I think that might have been me.

I would suggest that you have the crank sensor problem too. Symptoms you describe are exactly like mine except for the slow starting bit. Mine was fine this way but I did find that most affected by a faulty Crank Sensor, either were slow in starting or in some cases, did not start at all.

The part is dealer only, or at least I couldn't find it elsewhere. You might get lucky in a breakers but you could be getting the same as what you have too.

Changing is simple, the only challenge is the access!

Let us know how you get on.

yes,think i seen it on boards.ie!

yeah,the sensor seems to be dealer only.

i removed it and cleaned it,didnt make much difference.

what i have noticed,i tried reving it out as far as it would go in a few gears,and can smell the cat,it really stinks,and the heat coming from it is serious,so im now wondering could it be blocked and this is whats causing it?

doubtfull as you would think it wouldnt rev at all,never mind to the redline at times.

going to remove it and take a look at it first.

I think I posted it on Boards as well as here somewhere but anyway.

Now, with my crank problem, when the engine was cold, I could redline it, BUT when it was up at normal operating temperature the max I could get was 3,500 to 4,000 rpm. I didn't hang round for it to get any worse. I also noticed the stink of the CAT at the time but not sure whether it was related or not.

You're right in saying that if the CAT was blocked then you wouldn't be able to redline it at all, well, beyond the first 30 seconds after starting anyway!

Cleaning the Crank sensor is a waste of time, it's not that kind of sensor, in that its all sealed and self contained. Pity you couldn't have borrowed one when you went to the trouble of removing yours to clean it.

Still, I would put my money on the crank sensor being your problem.

i think ill try and source a 2nd hand sensor.

not a big job to change,a bit awkward to get out just,ha!

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  • 1 month later...

just to update this for future ref if anyone else has the same problem.

the crankshaft sensor cured it.

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