2011 Roof Console - Connector Pinout

[Hoovie]

Just working on the next PIMP for RAVI the 2nd and need a bit of help if possible :)

The PIMPing areas for this is around the Roof Console (the big hole in the picture below!)

I am trying to find the following signals:

• +12V Permanent
  
• +12V Ignition
  
• GND
  

I was hoping to find them on the 12-pin plug that goes into the console, but so far not been very successful, and the console contains some electronics, so some of the signals are unpredictable when checking with a DMM, so looking for a bit more concrete info if anyone has it.

Below is the plug:

And here is the pin out diagram with my current findings (with plug disconnected from console)

(curious about the +5V on Ignition there as well actually :) )

Any input much appreciated

[dave.m]

+5V for Homelink ???

[shcm]

The microphone for the nav/phone needs a power supply. The 5V is for that.

Hoovie, I'll email you the rest as it's a bit large.

[Hoovie]

Thanks

We (me and the cat, who is helping) assumed (yup - ASSUME means making an ***** of U and ME (and U & ME being the royal 'We' )) that the electronics in the console would have done any step-downs to lower voltages :)

[dave.m]

Just working on the next PIMP for RAVI the 2nd and need a bit of help if possible :)

Ok spill the beans

[Hoovie]

+5V for Homelink ???

Homelink would be a nice add-on - If only I didn't so much crap in the garage so the car no longer fits :(

Just need to mostly tidy up some wiring I did for the TPMS display really :)

and I have found I got my sides mixed up! Pins 1-6 in my diagram are actually Pins 7-12, and Pins 7-12 are actually pins 1-6 (must have one of the funny crossed surface mount sockets on the PCB I suppose - been too long since I did any kind of electronics :( )

[jolly-friar]

Sorry, not wanting to hi-jack your post…

Was it easy to remove the roof console ?

Thanks

Mike

[Hoovie]

Sorry, not wanting to hi-jack your post…

Was it easy to remove the roof console ?

Thanks

Mike

It WAS easy as long as you are not worried that you will break something!

The last time I tried, I tried to use a trim removal tool and it wouldn't shift. This time (after looking at pics of the removed console on RAV4World), I used a claw hammer to get better leverage and it came out no problem.

DISCLAIMER: DO NOT HOLD ME RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE! THIS IS JUST WHAT I DID TO MY RAV !!!!

[shcm]

Thanks

We (me and the cat, who is helping) assumed (yup - ASSUME means making an ASS of U and ME (and U & ME being the royal 'We' )) that the electronics in the console would have done any step-downs to lower voltages :)

Well, don't let the cat read this, but to be honest they are never that good at electronics. Maybe get the neighbour's dog to lend a hand.

You're right, we generally prefer to protect an ECU vehicle supply input (12V) than have to protect (against short to Battery, ground, ISO7637 based transients blah,blah) an already regulated one as an output and route that around the vehicle.

However some sensors external to the ECU sometimes require just that, so you just have to do it in that case.

Compared with Chassis/Body/Powertrain though, ICE systems always seem to be permitted to get away with lesser capable designs.

[Guest]

I have a feeling I know what you are up to

Do want me to pull mine apart again and let you know which ones I used?

'twas the dog that helped me.....

Gus

[Hoovie]

I am up to what you think, but a little more besides.

Put it this way....if I don't like the look of it, I will be a bit screwed!

but if you have your connections used to hand, would be handy :)

[anchorman]

Hoovie

There is a bolt you can use for a ground connection. Have a look at the mirror thread.

[Guest]

I thought I had it on my camera but didnt, I shall whip the console off later and let you know.

There must be ground on one of those wires as there is no connection to chassis from the console unit as it is sitting on plastic spacers, from memory (bound to be faulty) I think I used the black and red/white in the opposite corner (6 & 7 to your diagram).

Gus

[Hoovie]

Well, my work is done (for the time being).

I will rejig my wiring a touch once I get a STDP switch to I can select between Permanent +12V and IGN +12V, but not sure when that will be, so just used IGN +12V instead.

So what was I upto? Well, I needed a switchable feed for a little security gadget (so not inclined to post too much info about that on a public forum :) ), but also decided to relocate the TPMS Display into the Roof Console....

It was not as clean a job as I would have wanted due to extra hassles with the power connector, so had to slightly shift over the kit AFTER making some holes. Might end up buying a new plastic console part to redo if it bugs me too much!

The display is not as visible as before, but it is not the kind of info that you really need until there is an issue, and the TPMS system has alarms set for over and under pressure and also high temp, so mounted in the roof console is fine as it is still readable when looking a bit more up then the mirror.

Thanks for the info, Andy and Gus. Help miuch appreciated

[Guest]

Did you find a 12v switched by the ignition in the roof? If so are you inclined to update your diagram with what is what please,

Many thanks

Gus

[Hoovie]

Did you find a 12v switched by the ignition in the roof? If so are you inclined to update your diagram with what is what please,

Many thanks

Gus

Hi Gus, nope, I did not manage to locate a switched +12 on that connection. Though I have not gone through all the PDFs which feature the plug in question.

Because I needed to get the stuff back together and knew I will revisit once again I buy a STDP switch, I just used the Mirrors +12V supply again, which is a switched one, as a temporary measure (plus an decidated fuse for the extra wiring just as an extra precaution). When I review the PDFs more (and spot a switched supply) I will update this with a corrected diagram - I know the numbers are reversed already!

[Guest]

So come on, which mod was it, I know you have been working on two, there was the car to car exhaust seeking missile system but weren't you struggling a bit with the head up display, or was it the lateral flamethrower anti carjack/theft system?

Gus

Edit: sorry just read you didn't want to disclose.

[Hoovie]

So come on, which mod was it, I know you have been working on two, there was the car to car exhaust seeking missile system but weren't you struggling a bit with the head up display, or was it the lateral flamethrower anti carjack/theft system?

Gus

Edit: sorry just read you didn't want to disclose.

Well now you have given the game away ....

If was the HUD and side view cameras for the Wheel Spikes a la Ben Hur

Hoovie Heston

[junebug1701]

Nicely done, Hoovie! What is that OFF button next to the TPMS unit? We don't have that one over here.

I have to agree with Gust, one of those wires on the connector HAS to be a ground, probably the black wire. Check by connecting your meter to frame ground and probe each wire in the connector.

Have you looked at my Homelink install thread:

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/98-4-3-interior/87138-installed-homelink-transmitter.html#post889116

[shcm]

Come on chaps, It's easy to work out. You have the data, don't expect it all on a plate.

Took me about 5 mins:

I don't believe there is an ignition (switched bat) supply up there.

[Hoovie]

Nicely done, Hoovie! What is that OFF button next to the TPMS unit? We don't have that one over here.

I have to agree with Gust, one of those wires on the connector HAS to be a ground, probably the black wire. Check by connecting your meter to frame ground and probe each wire in the connector.

Have you looked at my Homelink install thread:

http://www.rav4world...html#post889116

Cheers James.

The 'OFF' Button is to disable the interior motion sensor for the alarm - I guess if you are leaving Dogs and Mother In Laws in there and locking the car.

After I fitted the TPMS display up there and cut all the plastic, etc etc I did wonder if I should have made a suitable sized hole in the headlining instead (there was quite a likely position where it rises up soon after the console) - but either way, have to cut into something that would be pricey to fix if you change your mind or it does wrong!

I was very impressed with your Homelink and if I was still able to park my car in the garage (too filled up with junk now :( ) I would fit one and a electric opener for sure

Come on chaps, It's easy to work out. You have the data, don't expect it all on a plate.

Took me about 5 mins:

I don't believe there is an ignition (switched bat) supply up there.

Difference is YOU know what you are doing!

So of the feeds up in t' roof, R8 has no IGN +12V so this would need to be taken from the signal to the electrical dipping mirror - direct if very lower power device, and via relay and PIN 6 if a bit more power needed - is my conclusion :)

[shcm]

Indeed. If the monitor mirror is fitted the ign supply is on a connector like this

pin 1.

Or the standard auto-dipping mirror, like this:

pin 7.

Wire colour should be blue in both cases and fed from a 10A IGN fuse (but other things will be off that too, so you don't have 10A available, but probably OK).

Dinner plate.