An Iq Called Toya

[craggle]

Few more lamps changed tonight, Done the traction control switch, ECO Off button and both the door electric window switches.

I left the indicator light for the ECO Off switch amber so it's more obvious that it is off even though there is a dash warning too.

Craig.

[Adam Evans]

I have changed my dash bulbs to Cyan colour.

They are an almost perfect colour match to the blue buttons you can select on the TNS510 looks great I think :P

You can see the difference between the normal blue LED that people normally fit

I am going for the tron look !!!

[craggle]

Looks great Adam, I thought hard about colours before settling on the blue but Cyan looks very nice too. I nearly went green but then remembered my parents 1980's Datsun was all green inside!

Craig.

[Adam Evans]

When I saw your green temperature it reminded me of this:

It looks really good though.

I think I just want to keep mine nice and simple

[tarquin]

You can change the air bag ones by offsetting standard ones to the left pads leaving toe ones on tbe right not used

David

[craggle]

Cheers David

I'll give that a go. :)

Craig.

[tarquin]

I will try to put a pic of it up

David

[craggle]

Well, All finished now. :)

Did the last of the blue LED's tonight. Decided to change the green heater screen to blue as well to keep a more simple theme going through the car.

I changed the LED's clustered around the speedo and rev counter needles to blue but then changed them back to the original red LED's as the blue colour didn't travel up the needles very well.

I changed the shift lights while I was there from green to blue.

The MPG gauge is a fair bit brighter with the blue LED's so I have had to turn the brightness down on that to the minimum setting.

All in all a lot of LED's changed, over 40 with a quick count but I like the effect and think it's worth it the effort. Just need to work on an illuminated mirror adjust switch now and I will change the airbag warning light from orange to blue as David said it can be done. :)

Craig.

[craggle]

And if anyone is wondering I did try replacing the LED's at the lower end of the speedo with a green one and the one the other end with a red one.

It did look good to be honest but didn't really work with the blue lights in the rest of the car, if you kept the amber illumination I think it would look pretty cool. :)

Craig.

[craggle]

One more post not LED related. :)

My drivers door central locking has been playing up recently, Sometimes it doesn't unlock and sometimes it doesn't lock. You can hear the solenoid inside trying five times to either lock or unlock but it doesn't quite move what is needed to make it happen.

Last weekend I took the door card off, carefully peeled back the plastic sheet and removed the lock assembly. I wanted to take it apart but didn't want to risk it all flying to bits on the garage floor as I needed to drive home again so decided in the end that a squirt of WD40 inside couldn't do any harm and re-fitted it.

Well, WD40 didn't agree with it and it now doesn't work at all! Makes the same noise but never locks or unlocks so I have to do that from inside through the passenger door.

I have ordered and received a replacement from a scrappy on eBay all the way from Lithuania believe it or not but it was a good price at only £40 so took a chance. It looks fine so this Saturdays job will be fitting it and seeing if it cures the problem. I'll then take the broken one apart to investigate what has happened to it.

Anyone else had door lock issues here?

Craig.

[Soeley]

Looking good Craig, you have done a good job there.

Seriously though, you have got me wondering if my steering wheel radio buttons actually illuminate?

[vox]

Hey Craig, You may be able to save your non working lock. WD40 is the wartime designation for WAR DEPARTMENT 40. I was primarily made to chase water of old type high voltage car ignition electrics. it also works for a short time to ease rusty padlocks and Yale front door locks.

It's silicone based and is great at chasing water off of Bakelite stuff, but it acts as a real good insulator for low voltage contacts, 12volt or worse still 5volt can bus contacts.

If you buy yourself a can of Servisol Aero Klene 50. This stuff should clean off all the WD 40 that's in your door lock. If not, you have a can of really good contact cleaner and know not to use WD 40 on low voltage electrics. Sorry, I'm not being sarky, I've done it and messed up as well.

I've bought a pair of those Twenty20 HB4 headlight bulbs. I can see why they are confident enough to give a two year warranty, that are built like tanks, if you see what I mean. A short, but thicker filament and loads of metalwork supporting everything. I'm impressed. Unfortunately, I've been ill again and have not been able to fit them yet. I will let you know in due course.

They are marked on the very nice foam filled tubes they come in as "Daylight" if that helps anyone. The lamps are filled with xenon.

[tarquin]

Mark

Cant remember if you have changed your radio for something different. I can tell you that if you take the original radio or the tns510 out the buttons stop illuminating. I was modifying some ones dash and did it sort of all in one so the radio was out. I changed the led's on the steering wheel and they didnt work! I took it out again and probbed them all ok. Scratched my head etc. put the radio back all well. So it seems not only the function of the button operations is controlled from the radio but it powers up the leds

David

[TomdeGuerre]

Hey Craig, You may be able to save your non working lock. WD40 is the wartime designation for WAR DEPARTMENT 40. I was primarily made to chase water of old type high voltage car ignition electrics. it also works for a short time to ease rusty padlocks and Yale front door locks.

It's silicone based and is great at chasing water off of Bakelite stuff, but it acts as a real good insulator for low voltage contacts, 12volt or worse still 5volt can bus contacts.

Contrary to popular opinion WD40 does not contain silicones in fact it tells you o the side of the can it's silicone free and has never contained silicones since it was invented over 50 years ago.

Just sayin'

[Soeley]

Mark

Cant remember if you have changed your radio for something different. I can tell you that if you take the original radio or the tns510 out the buttons stop illuminating. I was modifying some ones dash and did it sort of all in one so the radio was out. I changed the led's on the steering wheel and they didnt work! I took it out again and probbed them all ok. Scratched my head etc. put the radio back all well. So it seems not only the function of the button operations is controlled from the radio but it powers up the leds

David

Hi David, I did check and they do light up, not as bright as rest of dash buttons. Think I am just that used to it now you no longer notice some things

[craggle]

Fitted my replacement (second hand) door lock to the iQ this Saturday. Pretty easy thing to fit really, take the door card off, undo a bolt that holds the window track in place, pull the plastic sheet away, Unplug the connector, remove three screws and it all comes out the door.

Glad to report that my £40 replacement works a treat, door shuts perfectly and locks and unlocks exactly as it should with a nice, positive clunk. Money well spent.

Decided to take the old unit apart expecting to find stripped gears or broken plastic inside but I really can't see anything wrong in there, all nice and clean, well greased and hardly looks worn at all. Only thing I did notice is the small motor does the double locking thing and if you turn that over by hand you can feel the clunk as the armature moves between the magnet poles. Do the same thing to the big motor though and there is no resistance to it. Maybe the magnets have loss their strength meaning the motor doesn't have the torque to move the lock any more?

Craig.

[tarquin]

Is it worth putting 12v on tbe connector both ways round to see if it moves both in both directions

David

[craggle]

Well, connecting a voltage across the motor makes it spin just fine in either direction. Holding the shaft doesn't require much force to stop it spinning though.

Looking on eBay for "Toyota lock motor" brings up quite a few sales for the motors alone so maybe it's a common thing. As the motors are only £4 for two I have bought a couple and I'll replace it anyway just so I have a spare lock in the garage.

Craig.

[Soeley]

Good to know for the future

[craggle]

Got my new lock motors. Only difference is the shaft on the new motors is a round shaft about 20mm long and the original motor has a shaft with a flat about 10mm long. Easy job to hold it with a pair of pliers though, file a flat on then reduce the length to suit.

New motor is now fitted and it's all back together but can't test it fully unless I take the door trim off the car again so I'll save that for another day.

Took the OZ Racing wheels off on Saturday, pressure washed all under the arches and fitted the original wheels with the winter tyres on them all ready for the cold weather, just in time I think as this morning was pretty chilli.

Craig.

[Soeley]

I changed my wheels back over a few weeks ago, we had snow here on Friday

[craggle]

Can't believe it!

Only a month or so ago I had to change the drivers door lock for a new one as the motor had stopped working and now a matter of weeks later the passenger one is doing exactly the same thing!

At least I bought two motors so already have the spare one and know how to take the lock unit apart to replace it this time.

I can't be the only one having this issue can I?

Craig.

[tarquin]

How weird Craig

David

[Soeley]

Does seem strange?

[craggle]

Found some time on Saturday to get the door lock out the passenger door, open it up and change out the motor that actuates the lock.

All went well until I connected it up again, closed the door and tried it. When the car was meant to be locked the door was open and when the car was meant to be unlocked the door was locked!

After some head scratching I came to the conclusion that the motor must spin the wrong direction so once again, took it all apart, placed the new and old motors next to each other on the bench, touched 12v onto the terminals and sure enough, one span clockwise and the other anticlockwise!

Fortunately this can be solved by removing the two relevant pins from the connector that feeds the lock and simply reversing them to change the polarity of the motor so once back together it works perfectly with a really positive clunk, Much better than it was before.

After it was all sorted I decided to prise the old motor apart and take a look inside. When I was touching 12v onto the terminals I noticed it sometimes sat there doing nothing until I nudged the output shaft which then got it spinning. As you can see from the photo the motor commutator is very dirty and sooty although the brushes themselves look fine. With a good clean and re-assemble it would probably be fine again but as new motors are only a few quid each made sense to me to simply change it.

Also fitted some door check strap covers I got on eBay from China, just clip into place for a tidy look. :)

Craig.