Running In...........

[DFish]

I surpised they are only going to the 'w20' because as we know it's starting to get hotter in our summers. So maybe a 0w30 would be better.

Or maybe like the stupid bulbs, they just want odd things to keep you hooked into buying their products.

Fish

[barrycoll]

Thsi is an interesting topic, and in my personal opinion George comes closest to current day thinking....as someone who has had fast motors, (and wasted fortunes to the motor trade) since 17 years old, I have had a great mechanical sympathy, and always changed oil and filter every 6 months..............but times, and manufacturing tolerances have changed, so I now subscribe to Honest John's ideas in Saturday's Motoring Telegrath.......here he answers a question on the best way to run in a petrol engined car, and it conflicts with some folks ideas on this site

.....................

Put the car on a rental fleet so it is driven by a lot of different drivers with different driving styles.

Seriously, modern petrol engines are built extremely 'tight' so they need a bit of wear during the first 10,000 miles for the piston rings to bed properly into the bores.

Leave factory fill of oil for the first year or 10,000 miles. An early oil change to fully synthetic can prevent this happening, as can driving at low engine revs and driving at steady speeds.

So, depending on the engine, self-impose yourself a rev limit of between 4,000 and 5,000 for the first 1,000 miles, and be sure you vary your revs and occasionally reach that limit. After 1,000 miles, common sense dictates that you won't rev the nuts off the thing straight away, but you needn't be too worried about hitting 6,000 rpm occasionally as long as you vary the engine speed.

Try never to rev to the rev limiter as the misfire this causes can damage the catalytic converter matrix.

Don't change the oil and filter until the first manufacturer recommended change point, or the end of the first year.

After that, if you intend keeping the car for a long time I still recommend more frequent oil and filter changes than the manufacturers or their on-board service indicators suggest. It's also a good idea to have the transmission oil changed after the first year to get rid of any swarf which could later be ground up into tiny particles which eventually get into the bearings and accelerate wear.

[craggle]

Sounds good advice to me.

I have a 5.7 Chevy V8 in my play car and the advice on that was very similar, Drive it properly from the start and failure to do so may cause the piston rings to not bed in properly and you will use lots of oil. It seems harsh but they do need a bit of load on them to get everything working as it should and not simply polishing the bores.

I was sensible off course and didn't rev it to oblivion on the first run but then I did take it above 4000 revs too so not taking it too easily. Hardest part in that car is trying to apply load to the engine without spinning the wheels, 400bhp in a car weighing 1100 Kg means you get down the road probably faster than you intended! :)

Craig.

[s44gtw]

My first iQ Multidrive was an Ex-Demonstrator .

Believe me it had not been Run in,

or even given a chance of a sympathetic introduction to our roads.

It had been thrashed and was a poor example,

which i really only found out how bad it was when i got a new iQ.

(it is actually not showing as being still registered, so it maybe fell apart, it did feel like it would when it left me at 6000 miles and 7 months old)

My advice to anyone buying an ex-demo vehicle would be to get a Filter & Oil change ASAP after collecting it.

Do not trust to the Dealership or salesperson that admits to it being their daily drive.

Get that Oil change & check over done someplace else other than at the dealership..

IMO Never ever accept a new car that has been Delivered by a Delivery driver.

When buying from Discount Online type places, get it trailered or transported with almost zero miles.

Something run/battered up the Motorway for possibly its first 350 miles might be your worst buy ever.

Then again it might be the best you decide.

george

[marcandsebe]

I have a 1.33 Multidrive and would have thought it impossible to thrash with that gearbox. It doesn't matter how hard I floor it, I could never go over the revs. Mine is ex demo and it's a sweet as a nut.

[s44gtw]

Lucky you.

Yes you can over rev it, or run it at too high revs for extended periods when still tight..

Take a 1.0 and stick it in S and wonder why your not going very fast in a car with a few miles on it type thing.

You can get a salesman that tells you all sorts of rubbish about the gearbox & how it works and then lets you loose unaccompnied. (it does happen and it happens enough)

Imagine 10 test drives a week and maybe a loaner/courtesy loan for a few times a month and 1500 miles or even 3000 miles before the unlucky person buys the ex-demo car.

Someone that comes very quickly along the road and drops that box to S when the car wants to over ride that,

you want to hear what that sounds like.

& people that drops it to B from D at high speed and revs.

The OP was asking about a 1.0, and i am really talking about 1.0 ex demonstrators that can well be held too long at high revs from very low if not new miles.

The 3 cylinder engine & the 4 cylinder are very different & the Multi Drive Gearboxes do behave rather differently IME.

I would and have been much easier on a new iQ than a iQ3, but then the iQ 3 was my partners and was not going to be a keeper.

george

[marcandsebe]

Lucky you.

Yes you can over rev it, or run it at too high revs for extended periods when still tight..

Take a 1.0 and stick it in S and wonder why your not going very fast in a car with a few miles on it type thing.

You can get a salesman that tells you all sorts of rubbish about the gearbox & how it works and then lets you loose unaccompnied. (it does happen and it happens enough)

Imagine 10 test drives a week and maybe a loaner/courtesy loan for a few times a month and 1500 miles or even 3000 miles before the unlucky person buys the ex-demo car.

Someone that comes very quickly along the road and drops that box to S when the car wants to over ride that,

you want to hear what that sounds like.

& people that drops it to B from D at high speed and revs.

The OP was asking about a 1.0, and i am really talking about 1.0 ex demonstrators that can well be held too long at high revs from very low if not new miles.

The 3 cylinder engine & the 4 cylinder are very different & the Multi Drive Gearboxes do behave rather differently IME.

I would and have been much easier on a new iQ than a iQ3, but then the iQ 3 was my partners and was not going to be a keeper.

george

That's the reason I went for a 4 cylinder and not the 3 pot. I had a 3 cylinder Daihatsu and although it was fun to drive with a turbo, I had to rebuild the engine twice. Maybe the iQ3 is a bit harder to thrash than the iQ1 & 2's

[s44gtw]

It is,

just less rewarding/fun!

(where is that wink Emotion?)

;). ;). ;)

george

[marcandsebe]

It is,

just less rewarding/fun!

(where is that wink Emotion?)

;). ;). ;)

george

Can't seem to do those on the iPhone George

[tonyishuk]

Only thing I can add to the oil filter debate is that the time the filter is most efficient is just before if clogs and stops flow (Think about it ;-)) )

However may not be too good for any engine.

Rgds