Avensis Brake Pipes Corroded

[NotSoChilled]

My 1999 Avensis CDX saloon has got seriously corroded brake pipes on the passenger side from about the middle of the car running back to near the fuel tank. They obviously need replacing.

Normally it's not a terribly difficult job as I've replaced brake lines before on other vehicles. However, cutting and replacing the worn segment is not an option as there's not enough room for me to get the flaring tool on to the existing pipe because the fuel tank is in the way.

Both of my local garages have quotes around £300-£400 to do the job (I get the feeling they really don't want to know....!) I dread to think what the Dealers would want!!!

I was wondering whether any of you have had any past experience at changing these brake lines (especially on the Avensis) and what the best and easiest way to lower fuel tank would be to get to the pipes running over it? (I presume they're running over it and not into the body of the car anywhere!)

I had a quick look through the Haynes manual but that doesn't cover this particular work or provide any diagrams of the brake pipes around the fuel tank.

I would much prefer to replace the entire length of pipe rather than put a join in it so if any of you have any good advice and any diagrams/schematics/layouts of the brake pipes around the fuel tank area it would really really help a desperate man.

Thanks in advance!

oh, one last confirmation pls before I go ahead and buy the new pipe - the entire length appears to be 3/16 gauge with 10mm male connectors - am I right?

[Alan Morgan]

I replaced avensis brake pipes in their hundreds before I retired and although it is possible to do by just lowering the tank slightly the best and easiest option is to remove the tank. You are correct on the guage of the pipe and connector size. Refresh my memory as I can't remeber if your model has the plastic or steel fuel tank??????? The tank is a doddle to drop and if it is the plastic one not too heavy when empty. ;) Fuel pump and sender unit plugs/wiring are accesible through an inspection cover under the rear seat base.

Where abouts are you?

[gazza1286]

This should be possible without having to drop the tank. (I've done it on Two corollas, a Carina II and a Carina E)

The old pipe across the tank is secured to the body with clips which should be visible from beneath. These clips are generally riveted to the frame. The old pipe can generally be cracked at various points to allow it to be removed leaving the clips in place. The clips can then be 're-used' to strap the new pipe securely in place using cable ties and plastic sleeving to prevent chafing. It is very tight and you need LONG cable ties and small hands (which I luckily have)

You will be aware that only the offside rear brake pipe straddles the tank as both the rear pipe run along a channel on the nearside of the underside. To do the nearside only you wouldn't need to worry about the pipes over the tank. That said the passenger side pipe runs along the LHS of the tank and there may be a clip hidden up there. I wouldn't be tempted just to do one side though!

Use axle stands as opposed to ramps as ramps may raise the car too high for you to reach if you see what I mean.

[Druid Boy]

Um, if you dont want to drop the tank surely you could just re-route the pipes around it? Yes it isn't a text book repair but once closed the hydraulic system will retain the pressure and work as intended.

[Alan Morgan]

Um, if you dont want to drop the tank surely you could just re-route the pipes around it? Yes it isn't a text book repair but once closed the hydraulic system will retain the pressure and work as intended.

lol, you could route them up the windscreen and across the roof if you liked but it would probably be better not to. ;)

[NotSoChilled]

Thank you so much for your advice gents.

Alan - My Avensis has the old steel tank and I'm in Brum (thought my accent might have given me away - )

Gazza - The fuel tank on the Avensis needs to be dropped to get access to the pipes. I did the brake lines on an old Carina I had some years ago and that needed next to nothing shifting out of the way; not so on the Avensis!

Druid Boy - The safest route to take is to replace the pipes exactly as they are. I'm not a big fan of shortcuts where brakes are concerned but you are right - if there had been an alternative safe route I would have taken it. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Wonder if any of you can tell me if the fuel pump, associated wiring and the hoses have enough play in them for me to lower the tank first or if these need to be disconnected first?

Is it the single strap that needs undoing on the tank to lower it?

I'm hoping to do the job in the next week or so and could do with just about all and any info I can lay my hands on!!

Thank you all again for your responses.

[Alan Morgan]

Thank you so much for your advice gents.

Alan - My Avensis has the old steel tank and I'm in Brum (thought my accent might have given me away - )

Gazza - The fuel tank on the Avensis needs to be dropped to get access to the pipes. I did the brake lines on an old Carina I had some years ago and that needed next to nothing shifting out of the way; not so on the Avensis!

Druid Boy - The safest route to take is to replace the pipes exactly as they are. I'm not a big fan of shortcuts where brakes are concerned but you are right - if there had been an alternative safe route I would have taken it. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Wonder if any of you can tell me if the fuel pump, associated wiring and the hoses have enough play in them for me to lower the tank first or if these need to be disconnected first?

Is it the single strap that needs undoing on the tank to lower it?

I'm hoping to do the job in the next week or so and could do with just about all and any info I can lay my hands on!!

Thank you all again for your responses.

Well said mate, best route for pipes is the one that the manufacturers chose! ;) Not too much length on the pump/sender unit wiring, but they are very easily accessible from inside the car. Just lift up the rear seat base and they are under access panels. There may be one or two panels depending on your exact model. Best tip I can give you is to remove the faulty pipe intact and as close to the original shape as possible, flare one end of your new pipe, and tape it to the correct end of your old one. Work your way along the old pipe taping every 150mm or so mimicing all the bends. May not be exactly the correct shape but close enough to adjust slightly when fitting to the car! ;)