Front Brake Pads (Only) Change - Tutorial W/pics

[wastedagen]

Last week I went ahead and changed the front pads. I didn't do the discs as I think I can get one more set of pads out of my discs. When that does happen I'll add to this tutorial.

But for now the pads. After doing some homework on all the types of pads out there from MTEC, Mintex, EBC, Ferodo, Bosch(OEM) to name but a few, I decided to try out Pagid. Got good reviews for the price I paid. Got them from here.

So the tools I used were:

13mm socket.

21mm socket

3/4" Breaker Bar

Syringe

Wire Brush

Metal File

G-Clamp

Torque Wrench, along with standard tools for any Car DIY task

With the car jacked up and secured on axle stands, whip the wheel off with a 21mm socket and breaker bar. Or the tool that is supplied with the car. I used the breaker bar cos' I couldn't be bother to dig up the toyota tool, lol.

Next stick your head round the back and locate these two 13mm bolts.

Undo these, add WD40 if need be, and your caliper should slide forward away from the disc.

Pull it away and rest it ontop of the disc. I didn't tie it up out of the way because i'm not changing the discs. But be careful you don't knock it off as it may fall and damage the flexible brake hose. If you are indeed accident prone, then tie it up anyway.....lol

Now you can slide the old pads away from the disc like so:

I chose now to push back the piston. Once you've removed the brake reservoir cap and placed an old rag underneath, slowly and carefully, using a G-Clamp and block of wood, push the piston back. I mean slowly because if you go to fast you run the risk of reversing the seals in the master cylinder. Then you would have to replace this. I know because I did this in my corsa. If you prefer you can always slacken off the bleed nipple and push back the piston allowing pressure to be released out of the nipple.

NOTE: The front pistons can simple be pushed back with a G-Clamp, but I believe the rear pistons need to be screwed back into the housing. And one side is a reverse thread. I not sure but a special tool is required. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thank You.

I then cleaned as much brake dust away as possible using a wire brush and paint brush, with the bristle cut half way down to make it a bit firmer. I also used a shop vac to help suck up the dust and debris.

Now to the pads themselves. Now I'm a little fussy when it come to things fitting together. And with the history of brakes squealing because they jam in the caliper, I made sure the pads were a nice comfortable fit.

As you can see the metal backing on the pads, when they are made, are pressed out of steel. This leaves an uneven end.

So I took a small file and filed the ends even. I know this may seem too fussy, but for the sake of these 2 extra minutes, it could stop the pads from jamming.

I then applied a little copper grease to the filed ends that will now run in the calipers

Now its the reverse. Putting it back together.

Slide the new pads into the runners.

A little copper grease on the caliper points that make contact with the pad and piston face.

Slide the caliper back into position. Making sure the slider bolt washers are ligned up.

Then with a little loctite glue on the slider bolt put these back into the caliper.

I also cleaned up the front of the disc and applied a coating of copper grease before putting the wheel back on. But only apply a small film of grease. As too much is enough to hold the wheel off the hub and in extreme circumstances been known to make the wheel wobble.

The wheel nuts are done up to 103 Nm or 76 ft/lb.

I have been running Pagid Brake Pads for a week now and so far no squeal or issues of any kind. I find the bite is very good even when cold. I'm not a super fast driver or heavy braker so I didn't find the need to invest in pads like EBC green etc.....

Hope this helps anyone attempting to change there own brake pads for the first time.

NOTE: Do not put any grease of any kind on the threads of the wheel nuts or studs. These are a dry torque fitting. If they were wet assembled, they would be a totally different torque value.

[ptaurissr]

This is a great tutorial very informative. Just out of interest are there any changes to the routine if you relieve the pressure through the bleed nipple i.e. is there a risk of air getting in?

[wastedagen]

Thanks.

If you can support the caliper steady, maybe with another clamp or a soft jawed quick clamp, you can tighten the G-clamp with one hand and use a spanner with the other then no. Because as you get to the end of the travel of the piston, just slowly nip up the bleed nipple at the same time as you finish tightening the clamp. This with stop any air going back into the caliper/piston housing.

Or get a mate to help. Always easier with four hands....lol.

[ptaurissr]

Ha ha yes is always better with four hands, usually from my dad!

I take your point on the bleed nipple, in the past i have just used my hand with a block of wood to get the piston back in although a clamp seems much easier and less painful!!!