Upgrading 3Zzfe To1Zzfe

[Steven252]

Right celica pipe is a perfect fit.

I enlarged the hole on the corolla throttle spindle to fit the 1zz thicker bolt.

No matter what i do the !Removed! wants to idle at 2k rpms. Checked fir air leaks and havent found any?!

[Steven252]

Hmmm reverted back to the celica throttle spindle and adapted the throttle cable to fit. Its still idling at 2k. Any ideas that ive missed something?

What did you do about the coolant pipes? The celicas tb is very different to the corolla one so the pipes werent long enough. I ended up by passing the two so it goes straight back into the block.

I nee another pipe as one behind the tb wasnt long enough either. Think it went to the charcoal canister but cant remeber lll

[phatali]

Hmm ok maybe it is touching the rad pipe.

[Steven252]

Hmm ok maybe it is touching the rad pipe.

I would guess this would be why toyota didnt stick the 1zz in the SR model :(

[phatali]

Hmmm reverted back to the celica throttle spindle and adapted the throttle cable to fit. Its still idling at 2k. Any ideas that ive missed something?

What did you do about the coolant pipes? The celicas tb is very different to the corolla one so the pipes werent long enough. I ended up by passing the two so it goes straight back into the block.

I nee another pipe as one behind the tb wasnt long enough either. Think it went to the charcoal canister but cant remeber lll

Sorry dude didnt see your reply there stupid phone!!

Right i kept the original spindle but attached the speedo cable bracket onto the throt body.

Make sure when you floor it the butterfly is fully open.

Mine idled about 2k for a while but a **** gave it some throughout the rev range right till red line to see if there was any flat spots. Did this a few times

Leave it on for about 15 - 20 mins just let it do what it wants.

It slowly came down to 1.5k. Thats when i took it for a good run. And i mean a real good run give it some. About 10 mins later it was purring at 700rpm.

But at first it was hunting if thats the term lol that went away tho.

Ok so for the coolent pipes i used a mixture of avensis and corrola. Most were from avensis though.

Iv managed to keep all pipes attached correctly.....i think!!

Keep me posted on how ur doing.

[Steven252]

Right done that an its still hunting between 1500-2000k. So going to reset the ecu to see if tht cures it. Ill pick up some piping from the motor factors to route all the piping properally. Oh and a can of brake cleaner to see if i have an airleak im missing.

Heres a pic of the celica tb to airbox pipe. Its a tight squeeze to get on but once on its a perfect fit dude :)

[phatali]

Right done that an its still hunting between 1500-2000k. So going to reset the ecu to see if tht cures it. Ill pick up some piping from the motor factors to route all the piping properally. Oh and a can of brake cleaner to see if i have an airleak im missing.

Heres a pic of the celica tb to airbox pipe. Its a tight squeeze to get on but once on its a perfect fit dude :)

Thats really wierd. May be a vac leak? Im not sure my mechanical skills are f all lol.

Sweet!! Right i need a celica pipe. So its a easier fit im guessing than using the corolla one.

Yea get them other pipes and reset the ecu and let us know. Btw how do you reset the ecu!!

[Steven252]

To reset the ecu just take Battery off for 15 mins ;)

Ye it fits really well :)

Right i took the TB back off, bought 2m off 8mm water pipe and connected the coolant pipes as they should be and replaced the vac lines that were alittle too short so everything fitted correctly. Reset the ecu and went for a hour drive. Did it make any difference? Nope....

Its constantly hunting between 1500-2000 up down, up down... At idle. When moving or coming to a stop with the clutch down its dropping to 1000, shoots straight up to 2500 then back down to 1000, back up to 2500 before settling at the hunting idle.

Now i cant find any air leaks. Ive sprayed a whole can of brake cleaner around the manifold and its made no difference. Now this doesnt mean theres not one.

When i fitted this i didnt replace the inlet nor the throttle body rubber gaskets. So im going to pick these up wednesday ready for my day off thursday. Ill pull it all off again and see if the original ones got damaged somewhere n see if that resolves the idling.

This car has ALWAYS refused any sort of modifications to the engine, ive never owned one like it! I bought two known working induction kits over the year and both times it threw a fit at having them fitted, yet when going back to standard it was fine. Now i cand do that as i butchered my original throttle body for the 1zz TB so im starting to think theres something sensor wise thats on its way out - the maf being my first thought!

Ill get to the bottom of it soon either way. Cars ay!

[phatali]

To reset the ecu just take battery off for 15 mins ;)

Ye it fits really well :)

Right i took the TB back off, bought 2m off 8mm water pipe and connected the coolant pipes as they should be and replaced the vac lines that were alittle too short so everything fitted correctly. Reset the ecu and went for a hour drive. Did it make any difference? Nope....

Its constantly hunting between 1500-2000 up down, up down... At idle. When moving or coming to a stop with the clutch down its dropping to 1000, shoots straight up to 2500 then back down to 1000, back up to 2500 before settling at the hunting idle.

Now i cant find any air leaks. Ive sprayed a whole can of brake cleaner around the manifold and its made no difference. Now this doesnt mean theres not one.

When i fitted this i didnt replace the inlet nor the throttle body rubber gaskets. So im going to pick these up wednesday ready for my day off thursday. Ill pull it all off again and see if the original ones got damaged somewhere n see if that resolves the idling.

This car has ALWAYS refused any sort of modifications to the engine, ive never owned one like it! I bought two known working induction kits over the year and both times it threw a fit at having them fitted, yet when going back to standard it was fine. Now i cand do that as i butchered my original throttle body for the 1zz TB so im starting to think theres something sensor wise thats on its way out - the maf being my first thought!

Ill get to the bottom of it soon either way. Cars ay!

Right lol makes sense for ecu reset lol duhhh.

!Removed! hell you have had a right going on.

I think you have sussed it though with replacing the manifold gasket n making sure the maf sensor is nice and clean.

I checked my gasket over and it seemed ok but i was thinking to get a new one.

Had a issue with my coolant though. Checked it and looked like the expansion tank was pretty empty. I did top it up more than full after this mod. So could the water have overflowed. I checked the rad and that was full to the brim. Im not sure i mean it could be leaking somewhere from a pipe if i havnt fitted it right. The temp hasnt increased any more than usual so i dont think its the head gasket. Any ideas. Run it till fans kick in then check for leaks?

Btw where can you get these pipes from that you used.

That is really wierd how your car doesnt like to be messed with...its alive!!!!

[phatali]

Btw wats that on the side of the celica intake pipe?

[EXS]

i have the same problem with the ideling at the same range.... but mine only revs that way when i really push the engine, and then it goes back to the normal 700rpm when it cools down

must be something with the combo of inlet TB and injectors ...

oh and the intake pipe has to be the same size as stock or the air sensor will read the airflow wrong

[Steven252]

Btw wats that on the side of the celica intake pipe?

The round thing? It held a bracket of some sort that ive taken out ;)

With the coolant, its leaking from somewhere so check all the clips are done up tight.

I bought the 8mm hose from halfrauds. Its just standard water pipe stuff. Was £8 for 2m of it which was more than enough. Motor factors are generally cheeper but it was sunday so i had to get it from there :(

i have the same problem with the ideling at the same range.... but mine only revs that way when i really push the engine, and then it goes back to the normal 700rpm when it cools down

must be something with the combo of inlet TB and injectors ...

oh and the intake pipe has to be the same size as stock or the air sensor will read the airflow wrong

Hmm mines doing it from cold and is worse then too. Im going to try a new inlet manifold gasket plus change the sensors on the 1zz throttle body for the 3zz ones as i know they work n see what happens. Incidently it idles at 800rpm with the maf unplugged....

The maf sensors still in its original location - in the pipe of the standard airbox so thats not a problem :)

[phatali]

Mine cuts with no maf sensor. Lol wtf is going on!!!!

[Steven252]

Ye it will do. U need to restart it with it disconnected. Though having no maf gives a 3k rev limmit lol

The car going to work was an absolute night mare as i got stuck in traffic. With the idle as it is, its making the car ***** and pull around loads. Im going to have to sort it asap as i cant drive it like that!

Will change the inlet gasket tomorrow and if that dont work ill revert back to the 3zz injectors as te cars overfueling like hell imo

[phatali]

Hmmm thats a point i havnt tried that.

I bet its a real headache like that.

Read the numbers of the injectors if you get a chance. And hell yea it will be crazy overfueling!!

[Steven252]

Drove the car home and decided i had to do something about it.

So i pulled the inlet off and inspected the gasket (i cant get another one till wednesday) and it looked ok but to save hassle i put the 3zz one in as it was in very good nick. Refited everything and tried again... Nope the same.

So i pulled the 1zz injectors out And replaced the 3zz back in. Still doing the same thing but its hunting alot slower. Car pulls less at lower rpms too!

numbers on them are denso: from top

13 3660

032

23250-22040

So i changed the TPS, which was a ball ache as someone had rounded the phillips screws meaning i had to grind the heads off and remove the studs. Fitted my 3zz TPS but it didnt change a thing... :(

I have an underlying thought that the maf is giving a faulty reading. Ive suspected it for a while as its been jerky between gearchanges and when comin off and going on the accelerator. Im refusing to pay £70 odd a new one is just incase its not. So im going to pop down and see my mate who runs a trade car sales place and see if hes got any toyotas in that i can just swop one over to see if it solves the problem.

I dont want to go back to the 3zz inlet an TB as the car over 4k is a little screamer in comparison. I wouldnt say its any faster than before (a touch maybe) but its deffinately alot eager to go at any of the rev range and it doesnt feel like its strangled any more. I used to change at 6k on the 3zz inlet as it felt like the car just died at this point but now it pulls stronger and harder all the way to the 6700rpm limmiter. In fact i think its still making power when the limmiter kicks in. Might have to see if theres a way to remove that ;)

[EXS]

it pulls stronger and harder all the way to the 6700rpm limmiter. In fact i think its still making power when the limmiter kicks in

exactly the same conclusion i came to, would be nice to have an extra 500-1000 rpm to play around with, but i think the rev limiter is in the ecu so it would have to be modded in some way?

[Steven252]

it pulls stronger and harder all the way to the 6700rpm limmiter. In fact i think its still making power when the limmiter kicks in

exactly the same conclusion i came to, would be nice to have an extra 500-1000 rpm to play around with, but i think the rev limiter is in the ecu so it would have to be modded in some way?

Apparently its a resistor in the ecu that you need to solder out and but a higher one in. Im not sure if i fancy that myself.

A 7500 rev limmit would be great. Ive often had the car hit 8000 revs before so know the little 3zz can take it

[phatali]

Drove the car home and decided i had to do something about it.

So i pulled the inlet off and inspected the gasket (i cant get another one till wednesday) and it looked ok but to save hassle i put the 3zz one in as it was in very good nick. Refited everything and tried again... Nope the same.

So i pulled the 1zz injectors out And replaced the 3zz back in. Still doing the same thing but its hunting alot slower. Car pulls less at lower rpms too!

numbers on them are denso: from top

13 3660

032

23250-22040

So i changed the TPS, which was a ball ache as someone had rounded the phillips screws meaning i had to grind the heads off and remove the studs. Fitted my 3zz TPS but it didnt change a thing... :(

I have an underlying thought that the maf is giving a faulty reading. Ive suspected it for a while as its been jerky between gearchanges and when comin off and going on the accelerator. Im refusing to pay £70 odd a new one is just incase its not. So im going to pop down and see my mate who runs a trade car sales place and see if hes got any toyotas in that i can just swop one over to see if it solves the problem.

I dont want to go back to the 3zz inlet an TB as the car over 4k is a little screamer in comparison. I wouldnt say its any faster than before (a touch maybe) but its deffinately alot eager to go at any of the rev range and it doesnt feel like its strangled any more. I used to change at 6k on the 3zz inlet as it felt like the car just died at this point but now it pulls stronger and harder all the way to the 6700rpm limmiter. In fact i think its still making power when the limmiter kicks in. Might have to see if theres a way to remove that ;)

Sounds like the MAF is being a fool. Iv got some celica injectors....they should be the same as the avensis ones but I will check the numbers later tonight when i replace them injector seals!

If there is a way of lifting the rev limit to 8K damn that would be good.

EXS- How come you also get this hunting thing? I really give it some and after the fist time I started it (when i just completed the mod), it hasn't done that again. Also if you say the intake pipe must be the same size....what you using? custom pipe?

Edit: damn swear filter lol.

Also my celica injectors have the same bottom number 23250-22040. AS i say I will check these with my avensis ones tonight. I was thinking to replace one as there was a slight crack in the plastic casing.

[Steven252]

Ye ill try a known working one to eliminate it.

Exs is using a custom induction kit he made up. The celica pipes fine for us as it uses the original pipe for the maf.

Was better going to work today but still need to resolve it

[phatali]

Right ok i see. Will get a celica pipe i think.

Ok so i put new seals on the injectors. I compared the part numbers for the avensis injectors to the celica ones i bought. They are the same so all is well.

This is kinda crazy i must have had some fuel in engine but with all injectors unplugged electrically.....it started up when i turned it over to inspect for any fuel leaks lol maf was disconnected too. It wasnt firing on all cylinders though but i quickly switched it off.

I might see if i can get a custom intake pipe. 70mm 90 deg piece. Can squeeze it onto the 72mm TB and clamp it down to 65mm on the air box.

One thing is i forgot to connect the maf so as soon as i hit 3k it was limiting. Realised duhhh clipped it back in and revs just past the red line.

[Steven252]

As far as im aware all 1zz injectors are the same - green in colour.

I have a new inlet gasket and some gasket paste to do the job properally now so will takle that thursday....

Insidently my revs are no longer hunting. They started at 2k and now have dropped to 1.5k so hopefully its just the ecu being a bugger and is finally realising that its not a standard engine any more! Once and if they return to normall after all of this ill refit the 1zz injectors.

Oh and priced up a new maf sensor, baring in mind this is a patent part.... £120 :o so praying its not that!!

[Steven252]

UPDATE!!!

Since refiting the 3zz injectors ive done about 150-200 miles in this car with it hunting between 1500-2000rpms. About 100 miles in it decided to stop hunting and stick at a constant 1500rpm, which i could live with. Over the next 100miles the car then started to drive a LOT smoother with the jerkyness that i mentioned previously being completely removed. Bu it still idled at 1500rpm. Now ive come out of work today started her up and she sat at 1200rpms and i instantly thought wht the hell! She has always idled at cold prior to the 1zz conversion at these revs. So anyway i drove the car home and once she was warm i hit the never ending traffic lights that are on my 10mile journey home. And this is what greated me.....

Yes i was that excited that it was settled at its normal 700rpm idle, i took a photo of it :D shes remained there the whole journey home :D

So it turns out that I WAS the problem, in not giving the car/ecu enough time to adjust to its new parts over a good amount of driving

The cars now a fair bit faster between 4-7k and pulls like an absolute train compared to what it was like on the 3zz inlet and throttle body! She absolutely screams at 4k all the way to the limmiter which IMO is now set too low as the cars still making power at this point. Im going to have a go at raising this at somepoint!

I dont know wether to revert back to the 1zz injectors now to see if theres any further gains to be had, as it still pulls as good as it did when i first fitted them. But i didnt give it chance to adjust to the 1zz ones to see the full benifits...

Phatali, does your car still seem to be overfueling now youve had yours fitted over a good amount of miles? Mines not at all on the 3zz injectors so if yours is not on the 1zz ones now ill pop them back in?

[phatali]

SWEEEEEETTTT!

Yeah best way is to just let it do what it wants, it will eventually realise wait a min im actually ok!

Good news that!

Hmm ok I havnt tried the combo you have running at the moment i might try it see what it is like.

Well i have had it fitted for almost 800 miles now and up untill tuesday night the engine check light hadn't come back on. BUTTTT the reason for it coming back on is that i took it off to replace the injector seals then stupidly I drove it with no effin MAF. I got that cleared but then it came back on again. What you gotta remember is that I am still running the 3zz inlet pipe!! I have a celica 1zz one on order aswell as the D900. So i hope tomorrow i can answer your qn fully. It does use maybe a bit more fuel but it may be due to me taking it to the limit lol ooops. I think with the 1zz injectors it will be better though dude.

Also I replaced the grommet that sits in the block with the celica ones. I noticed my corolla ones were pretty ripped up. It could be due to the 1zz injectors being ever so slightly wider. But with the celica grommets they sit perfect. Also got a qn the 3zz injectors had a rubber 'spacer' so they sat a certain distance from the fuel rail. Now both the 1zz injectors from avensis and celica did not have this. I tried it out but to me it seemed not to fit as snug as the 3zz.....did you use these?

[phatali]

Also dude i was looking at older posts and you said that the 2zz is a straight swop but a headache for wiring it up. like if the ECU was bought with the keys and the loom would it be pretty major to sort that out?