D4D Hesitating With Loss Of Power

[bluebones]

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[bluebones]

Just to the right of centre there is a little valve with 2 pipes on (there is something purple showing on the photo). Make sure you remember which is which and carefully wriggle the pipes off (don't snap the connectors). Find a bit of tube and connect the pipes together to bypass the valve.

See how it goes then look at that link on the turbo. It should so loose that it feels disconnected but with the inlet pipe off you will see the vaiable nozzle moving.

Once you have done all that see if there are any codes but to be honest I think you will be wasting your money so only do it if the others don't reveal anything.

anchorman, really appreciate all your help, i did what u said and by passed the valve with a bit of pipe, the two pipes that i removed off the valve i just left dangling,wasnt sure if these needed connecting together or not so i never did, so i took for a test drive and the car felt if there was no turbo, but where as before it would not rev/drive past 3k it now does (if this makes sence)

thanks

[anchorman]

Just to the right of centre there is a little valve with 2 pipes on (there is something purple showing on the photo). Make sure you remember which is which and carefully wriggle the pipes off (don't snap the connectors). Find a bit of tube and connect the pipes together to bypass the valve.

See how it goes then look at that link on the turbo. It should so loose that it feels disconnected but with the inlet pipe off you will see the vaiable nozzle moving.

Once you have done all that see if there are any codes but to be honest I think you will be wasting your money so only do it if the others don't reveal anything.

anchorman, really appreciate all your help, i did what u said and by passed the valve with a bit of pipe, the two pipes that i removed off the valve i just left dangling,wasnt sure if these needed connecting together or not so i never did, so i took for a test drive and the car felt if there was no turbo, but where as before it would not rev/drive past 3k it now does (if this makes sence)

thanks

Err I think you might have misunderstood. You join the disconnected pipes together - the valve is just dead with the pipes off so joining the 2 ports together does nothing. The change in characteristics is because the vac pipes are open to atmoshphere!

[bluebones]

Just to the right of centre there is a little valve with 2 pipes on (there is something purple showing on the photo). Make sure you remember which is which and carefully wriggle the pipes off (don't snap the connectors). Find a bit of tube and connect the pipes together to bypass the valve.

See how it goes then look at that link on the turbo. It should so loose that it feels disconnected but with the inlet pipe off you will see the vaiable nozzle moving.

Once you have done all that see if there are any codes but to be honest I think you will be wasting your money so only do it if the others don't reveal anything.

anchorman, really appreciate all your help, i did what u said and by passed the valve with a bit of pipe, the two pipes that i removed off the valve i just left dangling,wasnt sure if these needed connecting together or not so i never did, so i took for a test drive and the car felt if there was no turbo, but where as before it would not rev/drive past 3k it now does (if this makes sence)

thanks

Err I think you might have misunderstood. You join the disconnected pipes together - the valve is just dead with the pipes off so joining the 2 ports together does nothing. The change in characteristics is because the vac pipes are open to atmoshphere!

lol, ill give it a try tomorrow and see how i get on, but on the other hand, the car was checked through a live data and something popped up, it was showing that the air intake was reading 60 degrees on idle and only dropping to 58 when being revved, so guessing the MAF could be faulty?

[anchorman]

Not sure what the values should be but the MAF is basically a hot wire sitting in the inlet air pipe. I suppose you could expect it to cool a little when there is a large volume of air rushing past it unless it cranks the voltage up to compensate. It won't harm cleaning it anyway.

[bluebones]

bit of an update, while driving the car on sunday it decided to throw a fit and loose all power, luck would have it i was driving and not the missus with the baby, and the code reader was in the glove box,

anyway it gave a code p1251, i erased it and it went back to its normal hesitating self.

today i by passed the VSV ( has vrv on the sensor?) and it was still the same, so then disconnected the electrical side to the valve and the MIL came on with a code p0045.

does this make any sense yet as to what it maybe?

i have squirted wd40 into the vsv and shook it,....... still the same

thanks

[bluebones]

this is how i bypassed the valve, guessing it was done correctly?

[sniper9652]

bit of an update, while driving the car on sunday it decided to throw a fit and loose all power, luck would have it i was driving and not the missus with the baby, and the code reader was in the glove box,

anyway it gave a code p1251, i erased it and it went back to its normal hesitating self.

today i by passed the VSV ( has vrv on the sensor?) and it was still the same, so then disconnected the electrical side to the valve and the MIL came on with a code p0045.

does this make any sense yet as to what it maybe?

i have squirted wd40 into the vsv and shook it,....... still the same

thanks

Listen mate I am not saying that you have exactly the same problem as I had a year back but most of the symptoms you have seem the same! My 54 plate D4D XT4 was hesitating and needed at least 2-3 turns of the key to start the engine, one day doing about 65-70 mph up a hill on the A55 in N Wales all power was lost... MIL light on and into limp mode...waited for a while then started her with no problem but still hesitating..P1251 (Turbo boost) on the ODB reading! A month or two later in Scotland my turbo blew and needed replacing! An 'old sweat' local mechanic (sub contract to AA) who attended the breakdown asked if the Rav had been hesitating lately and I said yes! He replied by saying that this was quite common as the 'Garrett' turbo's were not very good at all and were prone to faults especially from about 70,000 miles on!

Since I had the replacement refurbished turbo fitted (none Garrett) I have never had a problem (touch wood) she starts first time and runs very smooth (and efficiant) no hesitating at all and she can shift a bit from a stand still! I have enhanced this with the use of a full tank of 'V Power' fuel every 5th tank and normal Shell diesel in-between, oh and a spray clean of my MAF!

A lot of the actions carried out by me were due to great advice off the members on the TOC site..not much about replacing the turbo though? mind you I suppose it is an expensive last resort! (cost me £950 all in)

Steve

[bluebones]

bit of an update, while driving the car on sunday it decided to throw a fit and loose all power, luck would have it i was driving and not the missus with the baby, and the code reader was in the glove box,

anyway it gave a code p1251, i erased it and it went back to its normal hesitating self.

today i by passed the VSV ( has vrv on the sensor?) and it was still the same, so then disconnected the electrical side to the valve and the MIL came on with a code p0045.

does this make any sense yet as to what it maybe?

i have squirted wd40 into the vsv and shook it,....... still the same

thanks

Listen mate I am not saying that you have exactly the same problem as I had a year back but most of the symptoms you have seem the same! My 54 plate D4D XT4 was hesitating and needed at least 2-3 turns of the key to start the engine, one day doing about 65-70 mph up a hill on the A55 in N Wales all power was lost... MIL light on and into limp mode...waited for a while then started her with no problem but still hesitating..P1251 (Turbo boost) on the ODB reading! A month or two later in Scotland my turbo blew and needed replacing! An 'old sweat' local mechanic (sub contract to AA) who attended the breakdown asked if the Rav had been hesitating lately and I said yes! He replied by saying that this was quite common as the 'Garrett' turbo's were not very good at all and were prone to faults especially from about 70,000 miles on!

Since I had the replacement refurbished turbo fitted I have never had a problem (touch wood) she starts first time and runs very smooth (and efficiant) no hesitating at all and she can shift a bit from a stand still! I have enhanced this with the use of a full tank of 'V Power' fuel every 5th tank and normal Shell diesel in-between, oh and a spray clean of my MAF!

A lot of my actions carried out by me were due to great advice off the members on the TOC site..not much about replacing the turbo though? mind you I suppose it is an expensive last resort! (cost me £950 all in)

Steve

thanks for the info steve, this has crossed my mind, but was hoping it was a sensor somewhere.

as for all the advice off this site, i would be completely lost, so thanks again to everyone for their input.

but the search for the fault continues, but surely it can be one of 2 things now,

VSV Valve

Turbo...?

[anchorman]

That little loop is doing nothing but you have the other one right. Ok now take that vac unit off and check if the link is dead free. If you find it stiff it is full of carbon so you have to get it out or change the turbo.

[bluebones]

have checked all pipes and are all clear, ive blown through them all, when blown into the one linked into the turbo, you can feel it moving the actuator, but when removing the VSV valve to blow through it, nothing would blow through the top pipe (closest to the turbo) so is this right?

just trying to check & double check before i remove the turbo

thanks

[anchorman]

I'm told the valve works opposite to this pdf. I've had the valves off but never blown through one.

VSV check.pdf

[bluebones]

I'm told the valve works opposite to this pdf. I've had the valves off but never blown through one.

VSV check.pdf

thanks anchorman, will be doing my final checks before i order a turbo, but did speak to another toyota mechanic today and he was saying its not uncommon for the turbo to stop working. will keep everyone posted.

thanks

[bluebones]

UPDATE.... New (recon) turbo was fitted at the weekend, and she is running better than ever, so would like to say a big thank you to everyone for all their help and advice,

[anchorman]

Well done for sticking at it.

[bluebones]

Well done for sticking at it.

thanks mate, im taking it to my mates garage on saturday for the solid flywheel/clutch conversion, as the flywheel has started to make a horrible grinding noise, was told the springs are on their way out, but hay-ho once this is done should be fine......

[Rav NV]

Hi bluebones, seems me & you have had same problems, I've just had my fly wheel done yesterday (tuesday) got car back today, i've stuck with DMF & had clutch kit fitted, tell you what it makes a big difference car is well smooth now,

I'll look forward to reading the update when you get it sorted,