Mmm, Shiny!

[benxt5]

Cleaned and sealed/waxed the new Rav today. Jetseal109 on the wheels and Poorboys Natty blue carnuba paste on the body (what I had left over, the next coat will be collinite).

Photos could be better as my phone struggles in the sunshine...

Great pearl paint...

...and now some for the chrome junkies.

Say cheese!!!

[igormus]

super

[BeechCustom]

Nice finish!!!

[Big Kev]

Just you wait 'til Hoovie gets his foam lance.....he'll be on here too with his white Pearly Rav too.

Great job....award yerself a beer.

Big Kev

[anchorman]

Nice work Ben.

[Davrav]

Just you wait 'til Hoovie gets his foam lance.....he'll be on here too with his white Pearly Rav too.

Great job....award yerself a beer.

Big Kev

Ditto the above - so that's two beers

That pearlescent paint has a really nice 'frosted' look to it.

[Lorna2]

Impressive! The pearl finish looks great. What did you use on the chrome?

[benxt5]

Impressive! The pearl finish looks great. What did you use on the chrome?

A clean, dry microfibre cloth. Nothing more... :)

[Lorna2]

Impressive! The pearl finish looks great. What did you use on the chrome?

A clean, dry microfibre cloth. Nothing more... :)

Ah that's great. No fancy products needed then, good to hear. I use a microfibre cloth anyway to dry the car :) Sometimes the simple things work best.

[benxt5]

Impressive! The pearl finish looks great. What did you use on the chrome?

A clean, dry microfibre cloth. Nothing more... :)

Ah that's great. No fancy products needed then, good to hear. I use a microfibre cloth anyway to dry the car :) Sometimes the simple things work best.

If the chrome is in good condition then the main thing is to ensure that it is completely clean and dry otherwise any water will leave marks and even the tiniest haze left by a chamois or damp microfiber will dry with a tarnished appearance. That's why I use a different, totally clean and dry cloth just to go over the chrome bits. It's best to leave until last so the areas around it are dry otherwise the dreaded drips come back to haunt you!

[Big Kev]

Impressive! The pearl finish looks great. What did you use on the chrome?

A clean, dry microfibre cloth. Nothing more... :)

Ah that's great. No fancy products needed then, good to hear. I use a microfibre cloth anyway to dry the car :) Sometimes the simple things work best.

If the chrome is in good condition then the main thing is to ensure that it is completely clean and dry otherwise any water will leave marks and even the tiniest haze left by a chamois or damp microfiber will dry with a tarnished appearance. That's why I use a different, totally clean and dry cloth just to go over the chrome bits. It's best to leave until last so the areas around it are dry otherwise the dreaded drips come back to haunt you!

And ma mate Gus thinks my name is Para Noyic? (ma Mammy was Czech....born in Provident.....davem or Bothy will explain )..... Let's give Clare nightmares.....best thing is a Brillo Pad....ONE DAY, I will have a chrome grille, and call her Dignity....

Big Kev

[flyboyprowler]

Oh it looks nice!!

To dream is to polish, and are you really going to take it out in the rain!!

[igormus]

did you use only hands or polish angle machine ?

[benxt5]

Hands only. I don't own a posh DA polisher. I just can't trust my fists of ham not to burn through! Plus its quite therapeutic doing it by hand. Especially after a crap week at work. Its nice to give the brain some down time (like watching x factor). ;)

[anchorman]

You'll need a protector on that back bumper Ben.

BTW, how are you getting on with it? Is it bedding in a bit now?

[Big Kev]

Clare....have you seen Ben's new avatar / phoaty thingy....? Bit OTT, what....? LOL.

Big Kev

[CharlieFarlie]

Chrome need sealing.. Use your Jetseal109 . If left it will water spot in time. Main thing with 109 is it must be left to cure for an hour or it will offer less protection.. It will still work but wont last long at all.. Polishing a new car by hand is not to bad as it should have no residues or light scratches to remove so your just laying on protection and producing a shine.

Very nice car and in the best colour by far !!

[Manxrav]

Ben, quality job on a quality looking Rav. Love that colour ( that and Vermillion Red are the Rav,s best colours- personal choice). Charlie is right about Jetseal on Chrome, and on the alloys as well.

Don,t be frightened by the prospect of using a Das6 machine ( if you wish to invest in one), you can,t "burn" your paint using one of those machines.My Dad and myself have the benefit of the expertise of Big kev, and we are slowly getting to grips with the art of using the machine. ( My Dad more so than myself).

Keep up the good work!!!

Regards Clare

[CharlieFarlie]

Clare it IS possible to inflict damage to paint by use of a DAS machine. If the pads are to hard or the polish has to greater cut the lacquer can get marked or even burnt through.. Not as likely as with a rotary but still very possible. Likely even.

Why ?

Paint on Japanese cars is in relation to European cars quite thin and very very soft !

This makes swirl and scratch removal easy to do and a pleasure as results are fast and rewarding..

But the downside is that replacing the removed swirls is east also as the paint is soft..

There are of course only so many times a cars paintwork can be totally polished or "corrected" before we have to stop polishing..

I never work on any Japanese car without a PTG (Paint Thickness gauge) unless like Bens car it is new so know what I have to play with.

Some gauges measure the thickness only IE a combination of the base-coat and lacquer combined .. Others like the Defelsco positector I use gives a reading which indicates the thickness of base coat and lacquer as a separate entity. We are only polishing the lacquer coat ..

Never use AIO polishes on a Japanese car the risk is just to great....

The longer 109 can be left the better..

Colinite has been mentioned and it's worth noting that this stuff MUST be removed as quickly as possible or its a pain.. Work on a small area at a time say half a bonnet and remove immediately..

[Manxrav]

Charlie, not wishing to appear thick,but which are All in One polishers?

Regards Clare

[benxt5]

Colinite has been mentioned and it's worth noting that this stuff MUST be removed as quickly as possible or its a pain.. Work on a small area at a time say half a bonnet and remove immediately..

I heard that too. A bugger to get off if left more than a few minutes. Cheers for the heads up.

I'll also jetseal the chrome next time and put another coat on the wheels as I didn't leave them more than 15min before removing.

Clare....have you seen Ben's new avatar / phoaty thingy....? Bit OTT, what....? LOL.

Big Kev

LOL, and my old "Here's Johnny!" style one was subtle!?!

I did it mainly as you can see me in the reflection, like Anchorman's old red avatar.

[Big Kev]

In my personal (very limited) experience, the Collinite 845 Insulator Wax (very runny liquid) is an absolute dawdle to put on and remove. The difficult one is the "paste in a wee tin" version, known as 476S.....the expression "less is more" was invented by the inventor of this excellent wax. I would split the area of a bonnet into 4 when using this stuff, but was advised by Blue that if left too long it can easier be moved by some detailing spray, wax again, and learn from the stupidity of letting it dry too long !!!!! never use it on anything but cool paintwork....that is an absolute must.

Clare.....Charlie very correct.....I got tired and "heated" some polish into the clearcoat wiff my DAP, and it was a bit of a gubber to remove. Never dally with it, keep it moving, and set yourself realistic targets of how much you can do at one session......FAMILIARITY BREEDS CONTEMPT also comes into play.

Did the Da Tony finish ok last week....?

Big Kev

[CharlieFarlie]

Charlie, not wishing to appear thick,but which are All in One polishers?

Regards Clare

All in one or one stage polishes...

How to best explain?

Take a heavy cut polish.. In it will be tiny particles of crystals and cutting elements.. A lighter cut will have the same but smaller particles with less bite or cut..

AIO polishes have the larger particles and the principle is that as the polishing takes place the particles will break down and give a lighter cut.. Then break down again as polishing goes on.

Hence all in one as one polish does the job instead of say....

A heavy cut first to remove the heavy swirl marks and and light scratches.

Then a lighter cut to refine the finish left by stage one.

Then a very light cut to refine the finish further so no polishing marks are left at all. And a crystal clear finish is left and in the case of metallics the flake shines / bursts through..

AIO polishes are not really suitable for DAS machines as they dont produce enough friction or heat to break down said particles so they remain heavy cut and will not go through the stages. This will leave a very poor finish and can be very detrimental as they can strike or burn through even on a DAS machine..

AIO polishes need a lot of lubrication to aid the cutting process .

Personally I don't like AIO polishes anyway as pad choice is critical and mistakes can be hard to put right..

Colly 845 is a fantastic wax with great results fast. But its durability is low so wont last to long..

At this time of the year I go for Colly 916. Not quite as hard to remove as 476 but has the same durability so a couple of good applications now will see a car through till springtime.

Colly mutes the flakes in metallics. All three types do it. But Ben is using Nattys first which will lift the flake burst then colly will mute it so in effect where he started but with brilliant protection... I use Zaino Z8 with 916 over the top.

Tricks to help Colly 476 and 916 go on well are to have a spray bottle of detailer ready to help if its hard to remove And apply with a damp cloth to help it spread..

Applying with a damp cloth will Not dilute the wax or lessen its durability. It will make the process far easier though !.

[Manxrav]

Yes Kev, he eventually got into the swing, and took on board your advice.He does a square !2" x 12" at a time and it as seemed to have worked a lot better. He,s still vert much on a learning curve but is a lot more confident!!!! Me I,m still reading Mike Phillips " Art of detailing" and have practiced on my mates old Polo, which for it,s years 2005 is now looking a lot better. ( neglected for years)

Regards Clare

Edit- Cheers for the advice on previous post Charlie

[Big Kev]

Yes Kev, he eventually got into the swing, and took on board your advice.He does a square !2" x 12" at a time and it as seemed to have worked a lot better. He,s still vert much on a learning curve but is a lot more confident!!!! Me I,m still reading Mike Phillips " Art of detailing" and have practiced on my mates old Polo, which for it,s years 2005 is now looking a lot better. ( neglected for years)

Regards Clare

Edit- Cheers for the advice on previous post Charlie

12 x 12 just a bit too wee, Clare, and at risk of making as many swirlies as he's curing......tell him to try 23.873 x 23.873......will be nearly twice as quick.....he's gotmy number.

Big Kev