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Posted

Having a service next week, what oil do you guys recommend, how much do I need, and how much will it cop me?

CHeers :thumbsup:


Posted

I generally use GTX magnetec - 10W 40 - costs around £25 for 4.5L which should be just about enough. You will also need a new filter - around £6.00 and a sump plug gasket - around £1.00

Posted

I aklways found the magnatex 10w40 the best for the 2 as well :)

Posted

I actually use Mobil1 Motorsport, 5W50 I believe. The tubby actually recommends 10W30, but there aren't that many oils, and certainly not fully synthetic, that are rated at 10W30.

I think you may get some differences of opinions here... but just giving my two pennies worth!

I bought 5 litres. 1 x 4 litre bottle and 1 x 1 litre bottle as I couldn't get a 5 litre bottle of the stuff. I used about 4.5 litres... bearing in mind that you will not get absolutely all the oil out with a drain. I wouldn't recommend using an engine flush, as some can actually start wearing your oil seals (if used regularly... i.e. every 3000 miles when a tubby's due!).

I don't burn any oil, and the 5W50 gives the turbo plenty of protection when it gets very hot.

The oil cost me about £45-£50, and £20 for the TRD oil filter (not entirely sure it makes that much difference!)

Hope this helps. :thumbsup:

Posted

Dont mean to sound thick but whats the difference between 10W30, 10W40 and 5W50 etc?

I want to put a really good oil in it.


Posted

Don't know if this helps at all...

"Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).

Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.

Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. You will hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils. An example is a 10W-30 which is commonly found in stores. When choosing oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation."

Posted

So would 5W50 be good for cold starts?

Posted

I find it OK.

Posted

... not sure what the recommendations are for N/A oil viscosity. You might want to ask others before you rush out and buy 5W50. I only just realised yours is N/A... Doh! :wacko:

Posted

TBH I think you'll find any oil under 10w too thin. Some people have reported rattly engines using thinner oil in the 5w or even 0w range. If the engine has done a few miles, it will benefit from a thicker oil anyway, and oil of a thinner spec could cause premature engine wear. I would personally stick with what Toyota reccommend, or the closest to it - which in this case is 10w 40.

Posted

gotta agree w. dame here. i shelled out for the mobile1 0w stuff (the expensive crap) and engine was rattly as hell. Didn't improve over time and i noticed that it needed topping up fairly regularly. Then after a few top ups i switched the the magnatex and refills decreased as did the engine rattlyness!

Guess these old bomb proof engines need good lubrication, oo err :blink:

-Z

Posted

Maybe, but I can't say I noticed any difference in engine noise on start up or running between when I was using Valvoline Race Oil 10W30 and now that I'm using Mobil 1 Motorsport 5W50.

Suppose it depends on the condition of your engine to a great deal, and that you really do change your oil at the correct intervals. Obviously you don't want to go too thick or you won't be lubing the engine parts sufficiently during the starting up/warming up phase... even when the engine does start getting on a bit. The thicker oil will make it quieter when it's up and running when warmer, but won't be thin enough for cold starts... so in the long run putting in thicker oil just to quieten the engine can be counter-productive and can cause faster wear.

I guess I'll find out one way or another when the tubby does some more miles. :huh:

Posted

i guess.

It was noiser on start up, but did improve a little as it heated up.

I havta say tho the magnatex would be my recommendation :thumbsup:

-Z

Posted
Having a service next week, what oil do you guys recommend, how much do I need, and how much will it cop me?

CHeers  :thumbsup:

Hey mate, u missed out man, tesco was doing a special offer a cpl of wks back, the 1L bottles of Castrol Magnatec 10W40 was 100% extra free for 5 squid man. I got 2 of those bottles and the 4.5 L (22.95)bottle as well, used the big bottle with a bit to spare, but the 2 2L bottles wern't opened. If Cas Mag is good enough for BMW, then it's good enuff for us lowly Toy's huh !!


Posted

i generally find magnatec is cheapest at makro. about £17. :thumbsup:

i normally use it but have just put in mobil1 15/50 as im finding the magnatec is seeping through the turbo.

Posted

It's on sale in Halfords at the moment for £17 with a free Williams Cap :)

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