Water Pump Question And Ignition Key Woes

[kevinf]

hi folks i've got a 03 plate D4D thats coming up to 60,000 mile and im assuming cam belt time? and i've noted crystalised coolant forming round the water pump tell tale hole and as required no more than small infrequent top ups over the last three years!

my question is this is the water pump designed to allow small quantities of coolant to leak thru the gland seal to lubricate it,thus not a source of concearn as is the case with other manufactures such as mercedes-benz or should I change the pump whilst doing the cam belt?

also does any body know the part numbers or where i can get the plastic parts of the ignition keys from local dealer cant find them listed my steel blades are ok and the remote buttons work etc its just the plastic housings are cracked and are held together with tape at the moment

cheers kevin

[Big Kev]

hi folks i've got a 03 plate D4D thats coming up to 60,000 mile and im assuming cam belt time? and i've noted crystalised coolant forming round the water pump tell tale hole and as required no more than small infrequent top ups over the last three years!

my question is this is the water pump designed to allow small quantities of coolant to leak thru the gland seal to lubricate it,thus not a source of concearn as is the case with other manufactures such as mercedes-benz or should I change the pump whilst doing the cam belt?

also does any body know the part numbers or where i can get the plastic parts of the ignition keys from local dealer cant find them listed my steel blades are ok and the remote buttons work etc its just the plastic housings are cracked and are held together with tape at the moment

Type on ebay search, Kevin....."Rav 4 .......2 button key fob" and fill yer boots thereafter. By memory of other postifications, your watter pump is not doing anyhing that merit its expensive replacement, but wati for somebody more intelligent to come along....

cheers kevin

[anchorman]

Normally on a 4.3 I would tell soembody not to worry as long as it doesn't go down in the header tank. However, as your 4.2 pump is timing belt driven I would no strip it all down without doing it. It is a big job to do the belt and even bigger to do the pump too.

Instructions for the belt are pinned and I can find you additional ones for the water pump if you need them.

[Tech01]

Hi Kevin,

Key case (uncut key) available here:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/BUTTONS-Portable-COROLLA-cruiser-Highlander/dp/B003YBLJ7K/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357372234&sr=8-1-fkmr

Chris

[kevinf]

thanks for the replys have just checked out the keys on eBay they are exactly what im after

looks like il be changing the pump as well as the cam belt.,what do you mean by the instructions are pinned?

cheers kevin

[anchorman]

Just for you! Click on this link;

http://www.toyotaown...howtopic=110862

also, after removing the fuel pump pulley, follow the instructions in item 10 here. Do not remove the injector pipes or anything else that is unnecessary - the manual goes a bit overboard sometimes.

m_co_0006.pdf

this is a bit about testing pumps but don't take any risks with this;

Water pump test TSB.pdf

[kevinf]

many thanks anchorman

looks like ive got a fun packed weekend coming up

cheers kevin

[m122794]

FWIW, I'd always think about replacing the water pump when the timing belt is changed. My pump started weeping sometime after the belt change and any drips go straight onto the crank sensor below it (brilliant design Mr T!) This then corrodes and eventually stops the engine which in my case was no fun as I was on the motorway at the time...

[Migworks]

How did you get on with this KevinF? I just did the timing belt and water pump on my 02 d4d and I can tell you it was loads of fun.... Not!

The belt was done by Toyota at 59k just before I bought it in dec 07, but only the belt. I'm at 120k this week so changed the lot. I found signs of weeping around the failure hole in the WP, and after removing it and spinning the pulley it's making a nasty grating noise, so I changed it just in time. If your a competent mechanic going at this for the 1st time allow a whole day, maybe two to get the whe lot done. I was lulled into a false sense of security by auto data giving just a few hours for the work! Anchorman mentioned six hours which, if your familiar with the Rav engine bay is more like it. There are a few annoying bolts and nuts that slow you down and a few hidden ones that take a mirror to find. Hope your already sorted if not make sure you have a set of s spanners you'll need them to access the recessed bolts between the chassis and engine where a ratchet won't fit.

[kevinf]

not got round to it yet! have to wait till the weather get a bit better has i will be doing it on the drive, unles i bite the bullet and beg the boss and get it in at work!!!! (rather park the car up and walk to work than do that)

[Migworks]

I had the luxury of doing mine in my garage at nearly freezing, played havoc with bring nimble with the tools! Lit a portable heater up eventually as I had two days to get her running before she was needed again!

It's doable on a drive but because of the area your working in make sure you have good lighting, trolley jack, crank pulley remover, set of S spanners, long 3/8" wobble bar (to remove inner injection pump nut). Also one of the 1st jobs is to slacken the P/S pulley wheel prior to winding back the tensioner, but 1st remove the P/S reservoir holding bracket to gain access! Oh the list goes on! Still nursing the skinned knuckles...