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Starting Problems 2.0 D4D


ghsaunders40
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I have just had my SCVs replaced and mine is a 4.2 version

Is this updating of the ECU software exclusive to the newer versions, ie. 4.3 onwards

or do I need to get the software on mine updated?

I don’t recall reading about software updates for the 4.2

Anyone!

Exclusive to later cars with #AD series engines, not required for your earlier 1CD engine

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  • 2 months later...

I am experiencing starting issues occurring during the cold weather. So I am suspecting it may be the SCV? How does one tell what version software is running? I know that a new replacement EGR and intake was recently fitted by Toyota (prior to me purchasing the car), would the software be updated for when an EGR is replaced?

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Only way to identify software version is by taking it in to Toyota who can check and tell you if there is an updated software available. Software would not be updated with EGR but probably reset so the car can learn driving style again.

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I am experiencing starting issues occurring during the cold weather. So I am suspecting it may be the SCV? How does one tell what version software is running?

Software version you can check with Techstream and Mini VCI cable as well.

Read old posts above (24 to 31 posts).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Time to revive this one;

I have a 2007 2.0 Auris that has this exact problem starting during winter temps.

It was in recently at the Toyota main stealer to get looked at but it transpired it needed a new water pump rather urgently and that wiped out our budget for repairs. Combined with the fact that the car would not do its party piece for them even though they had it for a week; typical.

They were actually quite patronising about the whole thing and stubbornly refused to acknowledge that the scv could even remotely be an issue and they knew of no problems of this type with this model. Needless to say my faith in them was not strengthened in any way.

Now; we're into the seriously cold weather and the car is a real pig to start. It took me nine cranks to get her going this morning and nearly gave up.

My question is this, can I remove the SCV myself and inspect it and perhaps give it a squirt of WD40 or whatever in its innards to help it slide? I'm not sure if I pull it off to inspect if diesel will just pee out?

I'd love to be able to even source a replacement mini scv but they're somewhat rare and elusive.

We can't afford to throw 400+ quid at Toyota to get this sorted now, and frankly I've said to the wife we should get shot of it in the summer and px it for a petrol.

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Time to revive this one;

I have a 2007 2.0 Auris that has this exact problem starting during winter temps.

It was in recently at the Toyota main stealer to get looked at but it transpired it needed a new water pump rather urgently and that wiped out our budget for repairs. Combined with the fact that the car would not do its party piece for them even though they had it for a week; typical.

They were actually quite patronising about the whole thing and stubbornly refused to acknowledge that the scv could even remotely be an issue and they knew of no problems of this type with this model. Needless to say my faith in them was not strengthened in any way.

Now; we're into the seriously cold weather and the car is a real pig to start. It took me nine cranks to get her going this morning and nearly gave up.

My question is this, can I remove the SCV myself and inspect it and perhaps give it a squirt of WD40 or whatever in its innards to help it slide? I'm not sure if I pull it off to inspect if diesel will just pee out?

I'd love to be able to even source a replacement mini scv but they're somewhat rare and elusive.

We can't afford to throw 400+ quid at Toyota to get this sorted now, and frankly I've said to the wife we should get shot of it in the summer and px it for a petrol.

Ask your dealer for their comments on Technical service bulletin EG-0132T-1110-EN, this bulletin describes:

Subject: 1AD- FTV and 2AD-FTV Engine - Hard to start in cold condition
Models: Models: AURIS, COROLLA, COROLLA VERSO, RAV4, AVENSIS
Model codes: ADE150, AUR10, ALA30, ADT250, ADT251
Introduction: This Technical Service Bulletin is to inform you of the production change and repair method for the subject
concern. Applicable to vehicles produced before the production change effective VIN’s / frame numbers shown
below. This TSB is a revised version of TSB EN-0027T-0110 and only applicable to first generation AD engine
equipped with solenoid injectors (1AD-FTV & 2AD-FTV).
DESCRIPTION OF PHENOMENON: Customer may complain about engine that is difficult (delayed) to start in cold condition but cranking speed is
normal.
For low cranking speed (< 200rpm) or no cranking, please follow the relevant diagnostic procedure in repair
manual.
PRODUCTION CHANGE: Improved design of the Suction Control Valve (SCV) to improve sliding performance and newly developed
software to increase target fuel pressure in cold condition.
Diagnostics are required to determine the cause but the repair includes fitting the new SCV the updating the software, if this fixes the issue, that's the end of the matter however if the issue continues the fix may ultimately require a new set of injectors or a new fuel filter all depending on readings taken from the engine during the diagnostics.
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Yeah I know about that, my dealer got all arrogant about it and wouldn't acknowledge the bulletin.

I need to know if I can remove the valve for inspection without any ill effect.

I'm hoping it does it tomorrow so I can fire a heat gun at it to test the theory.

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Instead heat gun it is easier with hot water from kettle.

It is easy to remove and check/clean the SCV, no problem, just two bolts...

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It's fairly straightforward to remove the SCV, give it a squirt of WD40 and then replace. This worked for me temporarily but then the problem returned after a month or 2 and the same trick wouldnt work again. Had to get the SCV and software update from toyota (They wouldnt acknowledge at first either but I forced the TSB issue on them and told them I wanted the SCV replacement regardless of what they were telling me. Remain persistent and they will budge). I replaced the SCV myself.

There will be a bit of diesel leak when you take it off, but it's an insignificant amount (nothing that a tile of kitchen roll wont soak up).

There is a very thin gasket that you need to be careful doesnt fall down into engine bay. Mine did and was never seen again. Thankfully though the replacement SCV didnt need it as it has a rubber ring washer that IMO would do a much better job.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have the same issue with my car so I've decided to bit the bullet and replace the SCV.

Contacting a few Toyota garages in my area to get quotes to get the SCV replaced but none of them will give a quote or do the job without a diagnostics first which was quoted between £50 to £120.

Pretty annoyed that they just won't replace my SCV without a diagnostics and I'm even more annoyed that different Toyota garages charge different costs for the diagnostics.

Is this the norm with Toyota? Just seems like a waste of money when I'm quiet convinced the SCV is the problems..

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If you are convinced, do it yourself.then. Buy it from eBay or somewhere else...

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Needs the ECU updated so it needs to go to Toyota either way.

Its also wrong for you to assume everyone here is a car mechanic but thanks for not answering my question.

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I have the same issue with my car so I've decided to bit the bullet and replace the SCV.

Contacting a few Toyota garages in my area to get quotes to get the SCV replaced but none of them will give a quote or do the job without a diagnostics first which was quoted between £50 to £120.

Pretty annoyed that they just won't replace my SCV without a diagnostics and I'm even more annoyed that different Toyota garages charge different costs for the diagnostics.

Is this the norm with Toyota? Just seems like a waste of money when I'm quiet convinced the SCV is the problems..

They initially gave me the run around too with regards to a software update and wouldnt acknowledge that the new type SCV is useless without the software update. I bought the valve from them (c£250) and replaced it myself. Took it back to Toyota to get a diagnositic and software update for a further £90. I had to push to get them to include the software update in the price.

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They initially gave me the run around too with regards to a software update and wouldnt acknowledge that the new type SCV is useless without the software update. I bought the valve from them (c£250) and replaced it myself. Took it back to Toyota to get a diagnositic and software update for a further £90. I had to push to get them to include the software update in the price.

What is the final result now after all this job done?

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I have the same issue with my car so I've decided to bit the bullet and replace the SCV.

Contacting a few Toyota garages in my area to get quotes to get the SCV replaced but none of them will give a quote or do the job without a diagnostics first which was quoted between £50 to £120.

Pretty annoyed that they just won't replace my SCV without a diagnostics and I'm even more annoyed that different Toyota garages charge different costs for the diagnostics.

Is this the norm with Toyota? Just seems like a waste of money when I'm quiet convinced the SCV is the problems..

They initially gave me the run around too with regards to a software update and wouldnt acknowledge that the new type SCV is useless without the software update. I bought the valve from them (c£250) and replaced it myself. Took it back to Toyota to get a diagnositic and software update for a further £90. I had to push to get them to include the software update in the price.

Thanks for sharing your experience, I will see how I get on with them. My car is booked in for the start of Feb.

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They initially gave me the run around too with regards to a software update and wouldnt acknowledge that the new type SCV is useless without the software update. I bought the valve from them (c£250) and replaced it myself. Took it back to Toyota to get a diagnositic and software update for a further £90. I had to push to get them to include the software update in the price.

What is the final result now after all this job done?

Problem was sorted but the car met an unfortunate fate and was written off two months later.

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Just a side note.

where i work, we have banned the use of wd40 in valves, (solenoid valves) as it will cause premature wear of the o-rings in them.

I don't have this issue(and hopefully won't) with my t27, but if i were attempting to clean the valve i would use silicone spray or something like it.

Just an observation in an interesting topic.

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Reviving this old thread..I noticed this affects the 2.0 engines, I have a 1.4 which takes a few more cranks in the minus to 0 deg temps accompanied by massive plums of blue/white smoke when it starts (embarrassing outside work), doesn't happen when warm. Does this sound like the SCV?

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I've got the same starting problem on my 2.2 verso. I warmed up the SCV this morning and it started fine.

It has pump 294000-0316, can anyone tell me which SCV part number I need? I have been looking online but can't find a cross reference to this pump.

Thanks in advance.

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The instructions say idle with fuel temp at 20°C of greater.... use ambient temperature to estimate.

Looks like I have to wait for spring time to replace! What would Toyota do?

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  • 3 months later...

Hi new to this forum but been reading this post closely and hoping my newly purchased SCV will sort out my cold start problem on 2.0d4d auris 2007. Ive got a new SCV and kit from a company called PF Jones Diesel specialists. Everything in the kit looks OK but I am wondering what the screws/bolts are for which are highlighted with the red arrow?

Also, to anyone who has fitted one of these, does the supplied nipple/adaptor/collar just push over the new modified SCV before fitting?

Cheers

Craig

post-147777-0-54429700-1429780842_thumb.

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The pins are guide pins used to align the SCV as it is inserted into the Pump.

Make sure everything is spotlessly clean before removing the old valve and during replacement of the new valve any dirt entering can cause serious issues. Also the large O-ring groove on the spacer faces the SCV not the pump. Once the valve is in remove the guide pins and insert the bolts 1 by 1 and tighten the bolts down evenly to avoid shifting the valve, torque the bolts to 10.8nm.

Once the new valve is fitted ensure to book into your local Toyota dealer as the new valve will end up like the old one without updated engine ECU software, your car needs a minimum software version of 302V0000 which improves the control logic of the valve and increases the cold cranking fuel pressure to improve the cold start.

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The pins are guide pins used to align the SCV as it is inserted into the Pump.

Make sure everything is spotlessly clean before removing the old valve and during replacement of the new valve any dirt entering can cause serious issues. Also the large O-ring groove on the spacer faces the SCV not the pump. Once the valve is in remove the guide pins and insert the bolts 1 by 1 and tighten the bolts down evenly to avoid shifting the valve, torque the bolts to 10.8nm.

Once the new valve is fitted ensure to book into your local Toyota dealer as the new valve will end up like the old one without updated engine ECU software, your car needs a minimum software version of 302V0000 which improves the control logic of the valve and increases the cold cranking fuel pressure to improve the cold start.

Cheers mate, Ill let you know how I get on.

So just to confirm - the car should run as normal with the modified valve, but in order to make full use of it, I need the software update from Toyota to improve the cold starting problems?

I take it the collar / nipple just pushes over the new SCV before the whole thing is inserted? (With O ring in place of course.)

Cheers

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Have a look on the side of the ecu. Mine had an "official modification" sticker and the new revision number. Unfortunately the cheap dealer hadn't changed the valve, or invested in a marker pen. The biro was barely legible.

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The pins are guide pins used to align the SCV as it is inserted into the Pump.

Make sure everything is spotlessly clean before removing the old valve and during replacement of the new valve any dirt entering can cause serious issues. Also the large O-ring groove on the spacer faces the SCV not the pump. Once the valve is in remove the guide pins and insert the bolts 1 by 1 and tighten the bolts down evenly to avoid shifting the valve, torque the bolts to 10.8nm.

Once the new valve is fitted ensure to book into your local Toyota dealer as the new valve will end up like the old one without updated engine ECU software, your car needs a minimum software version of 302V0000 which improves the control logic of the valve and increases the cold cranking fuel pressure to improve the cold start.

Cheers mate, Ill let you know how I get on.

So just to confirm - the car should run as normal with the modified valve, but in order to make full use of it, I need the software update from Toyota to improve the cold starting problems?

I take it the collar / nipple just pushes over the new SCV before the whole thing is inserted? (With O ring in place of course.)

Cheers

From my experience, the car will still have the same problem when starting up. Its not until you get the software update, that the fuel pressure on startup in increased. Do not wait too long to get the software update. I had to force the dealer to give me the update.

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