The Dreaded Death Rattle 140Bhp 1Zz Engine (Big Ends)Repair

[balster]

Hi,my brother has Celica 140bhp 1zz Engine..He came back from
a trip and said they,re was a hell of a rattle coming from the engine.Took it
down to his local garage and they checked the oil which was very low(required
2litres)…Turns out it had sucked in air and taken out the con rod bearings,garage
said the engine was scrap really but could repair it for £1100(new crank shaft)
I reckon only for that price.He then bought the car to me and here,s what I did….

1-
put car on axle stands…

2-
removed all plastic under covers
from around lower engine so I could see what I was doing….

3-
Drained engine oil…

4-
To remove sump you will need to
undo all 10mm bolts and 2nuts...2 bolts are hidden behind a little plastic
cover on edge of gearbox just pull on this to remove…

5-
Turn wheels to one side so you can
access crank pulley

6-
You will require a wall paper
scrapper to get inbetween sump pan and lower engine case cover silicon to remove
sump.I started at drivers side and tapped into silicon then went to back of
engine and tapped scrapper there,didn’t take much to come off you may also need
a small pry bar to lever sump down.It will make a nice sucking sound when its
about to come off.You will struggle if you do not have a wall paper scrapper,
believe me…Easier than it sounds…

7-
Once sump is off leave to drain on
card board over night so you don’t get covered in oil..

8-
Get yor 19mm socket on Crank Pulley
and turn until No,1 and No,4 piston (torx
bolts) come to the bottom so you can access them…

9-
Get 10mm splined socket(old style
socket not new 50p type) put on 3/8^th ratchet only…

10-
YOU DO NOT NEED TO TAKE OFF CENTER
ENGINE STEADY BAR(ENGINE MOUNT) YOU CAN STILL GET TO NO,4 PISTON WITHOUT A
PROBLEM...

11-
I started with No,1 Piston(nearest
crank pulley) undo the 2 torx bolts pull
down (with your hand)on lower Shell bracket and remove.Next push up piston(don’t
be afraid) gently and remove top big end shell…

12-
Clean crank with brake cleaner and
also remove Shell from lower bracket(you have just taken off) and spray lower bracket
with brake cleaner…

13-
Put new STANDARD Shell round crank shaft(MAKE
sure TAG on shell LINES up and also TAG on bottom shell bracket lines up) and
push round to top of crank shaft…pull down on piston con rod to locate snug on
crank shaft onto new shell(hope this makes sense)..If you cant reach con rod
put 10mm torx bolts back into threads(hand tight )and pull down to locate rod…remove
bolts once this is done****Please make sure you have little tag in right
position!!!!

14-
Put lower bracket back on and put
torx bolts in hand tight…

15-
Get torque wrench and tighten 10mm
torx bolts to 20NM PLUS 90 DEGREES …

16-
Move to No,4 piston THIS ONE WILL
BE THE PROBLEM (IE, SHELLS BURNT OUT)…

17-
Repeat removal and fitting process
as No,1 but you will need to pull hard on lower con rod bracket to release the shells…

18-
Repeat on No,2 and No,3…(easy
ones)

19-
Check torque bolts twice to make
sure you have tightened them to correct settings…

20-
Replace sump(make sure you have
cleaned all the swarf out of bottom!!!)(I USED FIAT SUMP SEALER PART NO
71753861,STICKS LIKE ****. BEST STUFF YOU CAN BUY £15 OFF EBAY…(Normal
silicon is crap)..

21-
Replace all 10mm sump bolts and
nip them up(don’t overtighten they will snap!!!)…

22-
Leave over night to dry (for best
results in my eyes)…

23-
Put 3.7lites of fresh oil in(I put
0w/30 full syn in so it would get round all nucks and crannys)but 5w/30 fully
syn is recommended…

24-
Start engine leave on idle till
fans cut in a couple of times then drain oil…

25-
Replace oil filter and fresh oil…(This
costs, but its better than a new engine)…

26-
Start up leave on idle till fans
cut in again then rev gently to 3k….

27-
I had no con rod knock what so
ever(lucky I guess) so then I ran in shellsfor 100miles….(you may not need to do this but i did) Engine is sweet as….

Hope This helps everyone...Kindest Of Regards Balx