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Posted

Hey i might need either stock 5efhe injectors or uprgrade injectors.

Does upgrading my injectors use allot more gas, and where can i get either stock or upgraded ones from, and what car to get them from. i am in the US if that helps


Posted

mazda has a 330 cc injector that the guys from toyotaownersclub.com swap quiite often. but the amount of fuel it spits is kinda intended for turbo applications, unlkess you get all the neccessary stuff to accomodate them.(SAFMS)....stand alone fuel management sysem.

Posted

Are you in the US, if you are do you have to add octain bost or any thing to acomodate the j-spec computer?

Posted

when we swap fhe's into US cars we usually use the regualr 5e ecu. Our fuel on the 5efhe ecu would cause the motor to ping left and right. dont u think it would a get a little expensive putting octane booster into every single tank of gas.. it wouldnt be worth it for the extra 5-10 hp....

Posted

But my 5e ecu doesnt work on the j-spec injectors. so do i use my american manifold and american injectors or what, cause i have my jap manifold on w/ american injectors and it is running lean. so the american 93 octain fuel isnt high enough for the 5efhe computer.


Posted

Or should i just get some upgrade injectors from jcWhitney or somthing that would work w/ my car

Posted

use your 5efe american injectors with the 5efhe intake manifold. that should solve your problem until you get the 5efhe harness and ecu. i use race gas sometimes on my 5efe injectors and its great. 110 octane is $4.60 per gallon, and 101 octane is $2.67 per gallon. just dont run straight race fuel mix it with the 93 octane a lill bit. oh and you can get these fuels at your local airport or diesel truck gas stations.

Posted

There is no racing fuel locally around my area. What will happen if i just run 93 octain, isnt that like running the lowest grade fuel in and american car.

Posted

you will be fine running 93 octane if u use 5efe paseo injectors. just dont run less. i did once and it didn't run as well.

Posted

i use the 5efe ecu and usdm injectors and run 89 octane... it runs perfectly, no ping no knock. when u use the american ecu, its meant to b used with 89 octane anyways.. that's wut the fuel programs in the 5efe ecu are meant to run on

Posted

So it is ok when my check light says im lean. If it was bad would it literaly knock and ping, cause it doesnt. it runs strong. Just the check light is on.

Posted

Should i keep the j-spec manifold on?

Posted

O, and it blows carbon, mostly when i shift? what causes it, i thaugh about getting a new O2 sensor. cause the USDM one was on an engine that had a busted headgasket and got water and oil all over it, can that mess it up.

Posted

yes u would literally hear the knocking/pinging if it was running really lean... and u sed your blowing carbon out the back when ur shifting. that sounds like u are running rich and/or have unburnt fuel coming out of your exhaust. it could b caused by high octane gas (it burns slower than lower octane gas). To put it simply, if u use the USDM ecu, i really dont recommend u using past 91 octane if ur keepin the motor stock... it could actually cause u to lose power. and maybe u should look over all ur components since u did source parts from a busted motor...


Posted

I think i will try my american manifold cause i dont think it was blowing carbon at all, like somtimes on idle i will see the carbon spots on my car(it is orange). I dont think it blew carbon w/ the american manifold, and i problobly need to get my obx adustable fuel pressure regulator adjusted rite.

Does the 5efhe manifold make anymore power than the 5efe one. If so about how much.

Posted

yes it helps once 3200 rpms come around because of the ACIS. running high octane in the 5efhe will have it running better, but it is all dependant upon your timing settings and if your TPS electrodes are making full contact(don't worry about this yet). i have my engine timing set at 33 degrees and the thing runs like a champ. when i had it set at 27 degrees i tried 89 octane and it didnt run tht good. once i tried 93 everything was solved. much better pickup too. i had it set at 10 degrees and with 89 or 93 it ran like *******. because at 10 degrees is when the spark ignited, and also the motor is high comp. with high comp applications you want to use high octane. same principle as if you had boost. I dunno what you have yours set at. if yours is set at 10 degrees and it runs strong, then the only reason why it runs good at such a high timing is that my TPS electrodes are not making full contact with each other. therefore when i get a reading of lets say 40 degrees timing, in reality its prolly at 20 degrees. but yeah i love it. at this setting i've taken a few cars and it seems very strong. i just can't wait to have all the 5efhe stuff on the motor(then of course i'll take it back down to 10 degrees) to see what it can really do.

Posted

what are TPS electrodes, does that have to do w/ the spark plugs. Yes i think i got it set on 10 w. the terminals jumped. So should i put the timing on 20 w/ the teminall jumped, get bosh spark plugs so ill have better spark, run 93 octain, and keep the jap manifold on, and it should b kool. But do you have a engine check light saying you are lean, it might just b my O2 sensor that says im lean.

Posted

DO NOT GET Bosch PLUGS!!! i had tried 2 sets. one ffrom the 89 4agze mr2(used it because it works better than the paseo ones...[high comp applications]), and the standard 5efe paseo ones. either way they ran good for the first 5 days then they didn't do as well. buy was i pisse d that i spnt tht money on em. i ended up just going to toyota and getting the 89 4agze spark plugs and they work great. 60$ tho but the are guaranteed for 60,000mi? whereas the Bosch are guaranteed for every 12-15,000 mi. do not go Bosch i learned the hard way. and every guy at tht toyota dealership was dissapointed at how much money i wasted on the plugs. they all told me bosch's don't run good with imports and specifially toyotas. they said if you have a volkswagon or a "euro" then theres no problem. as for setting your timing to 20 degrees. what ecu are you using and what hanress are you using? if its the 5efe stuff then there shouldn't be a problem setting higher. jjust make sure you jump terminals e1 and te1 in the diagnosis plug, and listen to the motor as your doing it. if you hear knock or ping then back off some. i'm almost certain you will hear valve chatter don't worry abou tht too much. its a common thing on our toyotas. another way to tell that you've gone too far is if the engine misses in idle. it sounds almost like an extremely weak backfire, kinda like a sputter every now and then. when i hgad it set to 10 degrees with the 5efe stuff, my acceleration was slower than my 3ee(single overhead cam, crappiest motor toyota ever built) up until i hit 40 mph. and for setting the timing higher than the numbers on the crankcover, get an "advancing timing light" you can find used ones on eBay for 20-30$. if you need help using it ill tell you how.

i repeat don't use the bosch plugs. the 2 sets i tried i have used for 2 weeks each and they now just sit here. BTW- are you still loooking for a 5efhe ecu? If you are i can send you one, ad i'll throw in my bosch plug for free so you can see what im talking about. U2U(PM u guys call here) me and i'll see what i can do.

Posted

Thanks allot for the Bosch advise cause they are expensive. I'm useing the USDM ecu and USDM injectors w/ the j-spec intake manifold.

What should I do about my lean engine check light. I already sold the car but still am trying to fix the problem, i thaught about changiing to the j-spec header exhaust manifold cause it has a newer O2 sensor, than my am. one thats been through a busted head gasket.

Posted

it could be your O2 sensor is too far away from the engine. so the exhaust stream is cool by the time it reaches the sensor. thts a problem i had when i got my pacesetter headers. so i had the exhaust shop place a small threaded peice of pipe closer to the engine so i could screw in my O2 sensor there. and it worked. have you smoged it yet? if you havn't whoever you slod it to tell then that when it needs to be smogged have a muffler shop place a small catalytic converter right under the engine in betweenthe tranny's bellhousing and the oil pan. this helped me pass smog with flying colors(bettrer than some new cars). my problem was were the original catalytic converter was, it was not getting hot enuff. therefore it didn't do its job. so i placed a second one closer to the engine.

another thing is the injectors your using, they are from the 5efe right? I hope they are not from the 3ee cause that could be your problem if your mixing 3ee injectors with the 5efe ecu.

Posted

yes they are 5efe injectors. And about the smog, for a brake tag we dont get smoged tested, or it is very rare, when i first got the car i passed the test with a big leak inbetween my exhaust manifold and my exhaust piping.lol.

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