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Egr Or Scv Issue


Windinherhair
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You can get the code by shorting out two connections on the OBD plug and read the flashes, I don't know the two wires but you can search for it, I also believe you said the garage had a fault code which related to the turbo waste/boost and you had none, again I have not had time to search this, but I believe you have turbo waste/boost control valves on that model, the codes are something like P0033 and 44 ish depends which valve.

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Linda,

0.5mm stainless steel will be fine, and preferable to mild steel. Just use the original gasket to obtain the shape and bolt-holes.

Chris

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I would need a step by step guide on how to short the OBD, so I've just ordered a Launch Creader V from Amazon which should be here in 3 to 5 days :)

We'll not put the blanking plate on until we know the code and/or the problems recur...wait to compare performance.

Thanks again guys.

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I'm one of the ppl for whom blanking the EGR hasn't worked.

I've tried it three times now,and each time the car always goes into limp mode after 5mls or so..I've cleared the fault code and retried but with no success.

It know it does work for some,but from my own experience it didn't..but theres no harm in you giving it a go,as its very simple to remove.

Let us know your results.

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Latest:

The problem is recurring...so on went the blanking plate. No joy!

Have just driven for 8 miles with it on. The light has come back on, and the lack of boost is still there.

The car doesn't actually go into limp mode, it's just like something is holding it back...then intermittently it might clear and the boost is back.

Reckon we can rule out the egr...

Code reader should arrive through the week... :g:

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We removed the SCVs today and have given them a clean, just waiting for them to dry out before putting back.

They didn't seem particularly dirty, but I see many people note the same.

We won't be replacing any parts until the code reader arrives in the post though!

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Gave the SCVs and MAF sensor a clean today.

Took the car back out...et voila! She's running like a dream!!

Unfortunately, we soon noticed a diesel leak. Upon investigation, we found that the larger of the two rubber seals on the green SCV was missing. :blink:

We're guessing this has happened when we were drying them, but hubby has failed to notice when putting them back in.

Despite searching, we can't find the rubber seal.

Would anyone happen to have one from a faulty SCV that has been removed?

Hubby says he feels like an a**e :bored: ...I'm saying nothing...

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Most local garages have a selection.

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I believe either Lidl or Aldi was selling a O ring kit a couple of months ago I think they are £2.99p for about 100 O rings, and about 10 different sizes And I have seen them in £1 shops, But Anchorman is correct a decent local Garage should have a selection, It was worth cleaning the Valves because of your filter being collasped, I will keep my digits crossed....

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I believe either Lidl or Aldi was selling a O ring kit a couple of months ago I think they are £2.99p for about 100 O rings, and about 10 different sizes And I have seen them in £1 shops, But Anchorman is correct a decent local Garage should have a selection, It was worth cleaning the Valves because of your filter being collasped, I will keep my digits crossed....

Is that the kind of area (SCV) where we could expect filter debris to collect?

Still can't believe we lost that o ring!

Problem is, we aren't within easy walking distance of shops...think I'll go dust off my pushbike!

...or just wait until his Lairdship gets home with the work's van.

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okkkkkk...here's the lowdown...

Cycled around 4 local garages yesterday, looking for a 17mm x 2mm o-ring.

The nearest each of them had was 17 x 2.5, or a smaller fatter one that could perhaps have stretched to fit.

I was also given some lube gel to help, and advised not to use vaseline as it can make the rubber perish.

Unfortunately, none of these worked.

Ordered some 17 x 2s from a seller on a well known auction site yesterday afternoon, then phoned them and asked if they'd send right away. They did so, and the new correct size arrived today.

Meantime yesterday, the Launch Creader V arrived.

3 codes came up:

  1. P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation-Flow Malfunction
  2. P0627 Fuel Pump Control-Circuit Open
  3. P0400pd Exhaust Gas Recirculation-Flow Malfunction (pending?)

I'm guessing 1 is telling us there was an EGR issue right enough (when the light came on last week, pre-blanking)?

2 would be the fact that the diesel was leaking out through the missing o-ring on the SCV?

And 3 the fact that the EGR is still blanked?

Anyway, I put the SCV back in place today (with the new o-ring), erased the codes, and went for a 50 mile blast along the motorway. The car is running beautifully, and the Engine Management Light hasn't come back on. I ran the diagnostics again when I got back home, and despite the lack of warning light, Code P0400pd is back. Again, I'm guessing that's due to the blanking plate?

I wonder if it's been an EGR problem as well as fuel filter pieces in the system affecting the the SCV(s)?

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Cancel the codes and run it when you get the O ring. I suspect the SCVs but let's see. You might have cured it now.

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Cancel the codes and run it when you get the O ring. I suspect the SCVs but let's see. You might have cured it now.

Hi Anchs.

I already did this (am guessing you skimmed the post yesterday ;) ...a bit too late in the evening? :yawn: )

Today the car is still running really nicely, but the EML light has come back on. The codes are P0400 and P0400pd.

Again, I'm guessing this maybe be due to the blanking plate on the EGR.

We'll leave it in place just now, see if things really have settled down. Then remove it to see how things go...rule in/out the EGR. :g:

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I think you need to clean the EGR valve it still as to open and close when asked to do so, in the past if I have any trouble I have blanked both ends, in fact I now blank both straight away, I work at a large Aerospace site loads of Toyota owners and done many plates with no codes after, but I do give the EGR a good clean and like I said blank both ends

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I think you need to clean the EGR valve it still as to open and close when asked to do so, in the past if I have any trouble I have blanked both ends, in fact I now blank both straight away, I work at a large Aerospace site loads of Toyota owners and done many plates with no codes after, but I do give the EGR a good clean and like I said blank both ends

Excuse my ignorance, but where is the other end I should blank off? I thought there was only one part to blank on the 4.2 egr?

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There isn't. He's got a 4.3. The trouble is you broke the rule of fault finding and did two things at once. Was it the SCVs or was it the EGR? Keep putting the light out and as long as it runs sweet who cares. You can cross that bridge if problems return.

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We thought we had taken the egr out of the equation by blanking it off?

When the problems continued, we looked to the SCVs.

Good idea to leave well alone though, while it's running well...and we have the reader to cancel the EML :)

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No, you have reacted to the light coming on and loss of power. If you remove the blank, would it revert to the old problem? Is the SCV a red herring?

BTW, I take it yours is the later model with an electrical plug on the EGR. That needs to remain connected even if blanked.

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Hmmmmmmm...food for thought.

We're planning on removing the blank if the car continues to run well, to see if the problem recurs and therefore points to the egr.

And yes, the electrical is still connected.

Thanks Anchs.

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Thought I should give a, hopefully, final update. Might prove useful to some readers.

The Rav has been running really well now, so we took the blanking plate off on Saturday to see if the egr reared it's ugly head.

Nope! She's running beautifully! No eml...no underlying codes...appears to have better fuel consumption.

Looks like we had an SCV issue after all. Again, perhaps some collapsed fuel filter debris contaminating them?

Fingers crossed things continue as they are.

Thanks very much for all the help and guidance from you folks! :clap:

Linda

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I lost sight it was an older model, so many posting's, a lot of Toyota owners have to remember blanking the EGR will not fix a sticking EGR etc, you need to fix the problem before blanking, then blank it to stop it sooting up again, I hope it was a SCV Problem, I'm was sure it was some kind of blockage with you having the filter damage,

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"...blanking the EGR will not fix a sticking EGR etc, you need to fix the problem before blanking, then blank it to stop it sooting up again..."

If an EGR is stuck open, it will cause problems. If stuck closed, you may well be OK. Even if stuck open (or partly open), blanking it off will effectively render it closed, and the EGR problem will disappear. In other words, even if the condition of the EGR valve is unknown, blanking it off means it is effectively shut - i.e. no exhaust gas recirculation.

Any electrical connections should be left in place, which allows the ECU to see a present (even if non-functioning) valve.

Chris

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry to "bump" this back up here folks, but I thought some might like to hear that our Rav continues to run like a dream.

We towed a rather heavy, older caravan 150 miles up to the Arisaig area with no problems whatsoever. The car was also laden with 4 of us, and 2 kayaks on the roof! (the whippet came too...I'm sure that added weight should be taken into consideration :laughing: )

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  • 2 months later...

Well, we are starting to experience slight loss of power again with the Rav.

We planned to give the SCVs a wee clean as before, but haven't quite got around to it yet.

Anyway, the engine management light came on just now.

The OBD reader is showing code P0627 Fuel Pump Control-Circuit Open.

Looks like it's pointing to the SCVs right enough?

Just phoned hubby at work, informed him that he has the pleasure to footering with the engine tonight...he's delighted ;)

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