Rusty Engine Hose Clips On 2010 Iq

[bobkneale]

Anyone else noticed excessive rust starting to form on all your engine rubber hose clips ?

Sprayed mine with WD40 to reduce it a bit.

All comments welcomed !

Positive Regards,

Bob.

[tarquin]

mine are seems there is a bit of a lottery as far as rust goes.I have seen quite a few iQ engine compartments with all different stages of rust . Bearing in mind nothing earlier than 2009

David

[Phatjellybelly]

To be honest I am a bit dissapointed with the durability of some of the parts of this car, when I got my Jun 2010 car home in Oct 2012 I was quite suprised at some of the corrosion under the bonnet with some hose clips, bolt heads and some brackets, my outgoing 2001 Ford Puma actually looked better. Also my recent post on brake disks rusting adds to my concerns and Toyota have cleverly excluded any warranty on corrosion of functional parts.

I love the car but I am starting to wonder if this is a quality product and what the long term durability will be like, Its only just over 3 years old and has had more parts changed on it than my 12 year old Puma had.

Best

[s44gtw]

I would suggest that WD 40 is a waste of time, a jack Of all trades Water Dispersant, and leaves things a little lubed for a short while,

but try on a bike chain, gets rustier than before in no time.

Best a little proper oil or grease on them.

Even Petroleum Jelly (Valeline) is better than WD 40.

Was your car owned by someone living at the sea side possibly?

Also some people that clean engine compartments use products that clean and leave no film on them and cause corrosion.

Engine compartments of old after a dealer has steam cleaned them for resale, used to look the worst

not long after..

george

[s44gtw]

PS,

in 1997, 16 years ago a new Ford Puma started at over £12,000, and by the end of production 11 years ago the most expensive where over £22,000

2013 and you can buy a brand new iQ with a 5 year Warranty, from between £9,000-£11,500

Less than a new Ford Puma was 16 years ago.

Not quite understanding how comparing Apples and Pears (& lemons) means much.

So some used iQ's show corrosion, then buy ones that are not and then look after them.

Seems simple enough.

[scimberk]

WD40 is the Devils love juice. It will disperse water, but after time, some suggest 40 days and 40 nights, it begins to attract water, making matters worse and requiring more juice to be whipped up to disperse more water.

[bobkneale]

Thank you George,

Previous owner was not by the sea.

Above point taken about WD40 I will try some Petroleum jelly !

Positive Regards,

Bob.

[sweet-dentist]

I did my under-bottom (of the car, sir) ... with a combination of thick Zinc-spray and an "Unterbodemschutz" witch is made of a bitumen material...

I noticed a lot of "powder"-rust on all metal things, during the time I was busy painting the disc-calipers... This was done on 08-04-2011.. so on the 8 of April in 2011...

I had the car just a year at that moment. Been to Belgium sometimes where there was heavy salting of the road during wintertime.

But my Smart (that's from 2001) does not have anything like this... It surprised me!

Here some photo's: http://s676.photobucket.com/user/realbutcher/slideshow/Wiel-remklauwen-roest-iQ

[efb]

Dredge...! I've got rusty bits and pieces under bonnet. The clips I can replace, but the black painted Battery clamp and threaded rods are bad..I can get a photo when it's light. Is this a common part with other models does anyone know? I think it's too far gone to rub n spray.

[Gomoca]

1 hour ago, efb said:

Dredge...! I've got rusty bits and pieces under bonnet. The clips I can replace, but the black painted battery clamp and threaded rods are bad..I can get a photo when it's light. Is this a common part with other models does anyone know? I think it's too far gone to rub n spray.

I think it's common to have rust on our IQ's... Mine is from 2009, imported in 2014, and if in the country where it came from, they put salt on the road due to the ice, in my case it's exactly the opposite, I'm close to the sea, I end up taking some care (not much!!) and I try from time to time to use wd40 regardless of what I've seen written here on this topic.

[dash]

Had the underside of ours power jet cleaned, loose rust removed with needle gun, holes in inner sill patched and welded, then 3 stage Dinitrol treatment to neutralise the rust and provide a protective coating to the underside. Not cheap, but will hopefully keep the car on the road another 3 to 5 years. The paintwork on the body is, on the other hand, almost unblemished. 

 

[PCM]

Wow. Nice resultd!

And fascinating photos It certainly looks much better, post treatment.

Mine is younger (2014). I checked underneath, gave it a thorough wash and dry and used Lanoguard.

( I know its a different concept, but I felt it was worth the time and effort, and nominal cost to me, to do. )

I'd like to keep my car on the road for as long as possible.

[Roy124]

I have used Supertrol, first used 60 years ago.  One property is its ability to creep in panel seams.  Still available on Amazon amongst others.

My garage had never heard of it so I leant him my half full tin.  The old boy was so impressed he emptied the can on every seam in the car, doors especially. 

If it runs on to show paint be sure to wipe it clean as it leaves a small tacky coat.

[74hct04]

20 hours ago, efb said:

Dredge...! I've got rusty bits and pieces under bonnet. The clips I can replace, but the black painted battery clamp and threaded rods are bad..I can get a photo when it's light. Is this a common part with other models does anyone know? I think it's too far gone to rub n spray.

Mine are in a similar state.

I found rain water making its way into the engine bay via the now-ill-fitting self-adhesive foam scuttle seal of the metal scuttle panel beneath the windscreen with most of this ending up pooling on the gearbox. This was solved temporarily by adding a second (thicker) foam seal along the panel edge (but I now have a new OEM seal to fit at some point).

I also found the left clip of the middle removable plastic scuttle panel cover dripping rainwater all over the wiring loom of the main engine management ECM (oh joy!) and have solved this (at least for now) with more foam tape.

I replaced the rusty clamp which holds the airbox hose to the airbox as Bosch/Mann filters (identical design and country of manufacture) have extra deep pleats, meaning I remove the back of the airbox to fit them. 

I also replaced the notorious wiper grommets which break up for a past-time and am still trying to lower the front edge of the bonnet onto its rubber 'lip' as it's both too high and the rubber is distorted. (Tempted to buy a new rubber from Japan).

Such is my mission to reduce rainwater entering the engine bay!

(The top radiator support is a little crusty and needs rust treating as soon as possible. It is by far the rustiest part of my car as we don't really salt the roads here)

[74hct04]

Actually, the most alarmingly rusty part is arguably the steel coolant pipe which runs behind the catalytic converter to the water pump. One of the Facebook groups suggests this often pinholes at the bracket which attaches it to the block because of residual flux contamination. Mine actually looks ok at this point but is covered in rust blisters, so I have obtained a spare and associated gasket.

Since I can see the odd crusty pink stain around the water pump, I am hoping to whip out the alternator for access and replace the pipe, aux belts, pump and coolant when the warmer weather returns. With my skill level and tools, I dare say that's more than a day's work.

[Derek.w]

I painted some spring / jubille type clips this year.

Two on the air intake hose and two on the steering rubber garters.

Also painted the rear brake calipers and parts of the exhaust system.

[74hct04]

2 hours ago, Derek.w said:

I painted some spring / jubille type clips this year.

Two on the air intake hose and two on the steering rubber garters.

Also painted the rear brake calipers and parts of the exhaust system.

That's a good idea 🙂

I'm not a fan of aftermarket parts where at all avoidable, and C1/107/Aygo's are notorious for one of the hanger brackets rusting away from the exhaust pipe at its weld, so I painted part of the original exhaust of my C1 with VHT paint!


Back on the iQ, I forgot to mention that I replaced the hose clamp on the bottom of the coolant expansion bottle as it was rusting to the point of getting a bit thin. I scratched the factory black paint of the replacement, so touched it up with some clear lacquer. 🤓

 

[efb]

Here's my engine bay if anyone wishes to compare? Most of it is visual, but anything else critical I should check? I can see one of the wiper seals has gone, so I'll do that.

[74hct04]

Thanks for the photo. Mine is in a similar state to yours (although we have different engines - 1.0L here).

I can't think of anything specific you should check. Anyone else?

[efb]

Thinking about why engine bay is getting wet and possibly leading to rust. Is this correct, is there no fender liner covering this area (front left wheel arch)? Seems a bit...gappy...

[Comfy]

If you want to rustiness could be tackled 2 ways...either replace the oem clips with stainless jubilee clips...or take the oem clips off and get them cerakoted (im a biker and thats the go to coating) - cerakote is essentially what mainly firearms are coated with....very thin and extremely durable. My bike goes through winters (8th year) and the cerakoted parts are holding up very well...