Avensis 2001 Vvti Manual Pre Detonation/pinging

[Konrad C]

Hi Konrad,

Hope you are well. I am please to report that my pinging/pre detonation issue has been resolved. After much head scratching trying to find an air leak or checking for blocked or sticky injectors or injector o rings and stuff leaking to bad alternator and bad coil pack, It turns out that I needed to reset the ecu efi mapping. This was done the other day when I took out the fuses for 30 mins. NOW I am pleased to report that there is hardly any soot in the exhaust, my car is delivery a lot more power in lower revs, there is no pinking but my ears still ring occasionally but my wife/assistant said that she cant hear anything and neither could I. so very very pleased in all. I wanted to thank you and the rest of TOC for all the help. I know you said to unplug the fuse, but i never got round to doing it and when I did, it has fixed the problem. Thank GOD.

Now then on to other things. My rear main seal. I am gonna try and convince my mechanic friend to let me do the work and charge me little bit to supervise but not a lot. :).

We shall see how it goes.

Best Regards,

Waqar

Hi Waqar,

I thought about your issue and wonder what is happening. I need to use an additive to clear my engine. My engine does have the same pinging, only with the window down.

When my Battery was disconnected due to the starter being remove and in repair. Over 24 hours later when connected the car felt the same. It was slightly lively at first but the car after a few miles is back to lean.

What I am saying is monitor the situation and hopefully the ECU will keep the new mapping.

You still need to sort the oil leak. Toyota engines should look dry. Not like the like of other brands that have have seen.

That is my opinion.

Great work Waqar and I like you input.

Konrad

[waqar_lionheart]

Cheers Konrad,

It ll be a real downer if it comes back. I have to say though that I have been driving with the new set up and can say that I havent heard much of it. Like you said, It ll keep a healthy mapping. Also on a slightly different topic my anti roll bar bushes at front are shot. I need to replace them but need advice. The bushes are cheap but I am wondering about labour and if i could do them myself.

Regards,

Waqar

[Konrad C]

Cheers Konrad,

It ll be a real downer if it comes back. I have to say though that I have been driving with the new set up and can say that I havent heard much of it. Like you said, It ll keep a healthy mapping. Also on a slightly different topic my anti roll bar bushes at front are shot. I need to replace them but need advice. The bushes are cheap but I am wondering about labour and if i could do them myself.

Regards,

Waqar

Hi Waqar,

I have not dealt with this before but have some information.

Unfortunately the anti-roll bar is clamped to upper side of the sub-frame. The issue is getting to the clamp bolts.

I will check tomorrow in daylight. If you can access the bolts without removing sub-frame, then you can change the rubbers.

The Haynes manual states that the sub-frame be removed to access the anti-roll bar.

Other option is to undo the rear of the sub-frame to get the clearance needed, if that is possible.

I would get a trusted garage to do the job.

[Konrad C]

Cheers Konrad,

It ll be a real downer if it comes back. I have to say though that I have been driving with the new set up and can say that I havent heard much of it. Like you said, It ll keep a healthy mapping. Also on a slightly different topic my anti roll bar bushes at front are shot. I need to replace them but need advice. The bushes are cheap but I am wondering about labour and if i could do them myself.

Regards,

Waqar

Hi Waqar,

I have not dealt with this before but have some information.

Unfortunately the anti-roll bar is clamped to upper side of the sub-frame. The issue is getting to the clamp bolts.

I will check tomorrow in daylight. If you can access the bolts without removing sub-frame, then you can change the rubbers.

The Haynes manual states that the sub-frame be removed to access the anti-roll bar.

Other option is to undo the rear of the sub-frame to get the clearance needed, if that is possible.

I would get a trusted garage to do the job.

Hi Waqar.

I have made a new post to your question. Have a look if you have not done so already.

Konrad

[waqar_lionheart]

Hi Konrad,

Yes its a downer, The pinging has returned. Just like you had said. I cant get my head around it. There are very few things that would cause pinging. by the way I have ordered a fuel filter. Air leak. I dont know if i have one. My rpm is pretty steady at 650rpm at idle. Fuel filter I am going to change. I have yet to run injector cleaner ( I am going for bg44k) and I am planning on doing this on my trip to Germany this month as it would be ideal running it through. I think my O2 are fine as they have just been replaced and also would throw and error if something is wrong with them. I have yet to clean my MAF. I am going to buy the electric contact cleaner soon and do this. I am not sure if cleaning throttle body would help with this. Please advise. Low fuel pressure. I have to say when in the car, I cant hear my fuel pump going but the car starts fine so my guess is that its super quiet.

I am a perfectionist with a twist. I am going to get to the bottom of this. I will try and record this noise that I get but its dangerous and difficult as I ll be driving at the time. I ll send you a pm about this later.

Awaiting expert opinion.

Regards,

Waqar

[Konrad C]

Hi Waqar and for the benefit of others reading this.

I have now seen the car and the pinging occurs when pulling from below 2000 rpm for about a second, but this only happens on hills or when suddenly demanding more acceleration.

It is like the car is on one setting and then the car has to switch to another setting, playing catch up.

Overall the ping very brief and not loud.

I put this down to the cars history that Waqar has told me about. It was owned by a lady and did a lot of short journeys.

The engine may have carbon and as suggested a cleaner may help remove this. That could be why the exhaust has a bit of soot. The more spirited driving is blowing some of this soot out. The fuel filter change planned may also help.

I have never been in a vvti version of my car, but made the following observations - Due to the exhaust being close to the bulkhead, the engine has a different tone. The idle is more lumpy even though it is higher than mine, which sits at 600 rpm.

It pulls well in spite of the ping, but my car has more go lower down the rev range. The engine has more go once past 3000 rpm.

Everything else about the car is nearly the same.

Waqar has a cheap car that should be okay for a few years.

Konrad

[Konrad C]

Excuse me Waqar for updating on your behalf. This may help others in the future.

Waqar may have found the cause of the pre-detonation on his car. He basically checked the connections of his fuel injectors after hearing a clicking sound.

He found fluid around the injectors and cleaned them. I think he mentioned the connections were also wet, but Waqar can correct me on that.

Also there was problem connecting the plugs to the injectors on three of them, due to the little gasket deteriorating in the plug. The connector plugs were cleaned. Waqar had called me and I said to see if anything was bent or obstructing the plugs from clicking home.

After everything was clean Waqar reconnected everything and ran the car. He noted an improvement in the idle and the performance. The pre-detonation has reduced.

There are a few things to do like new 'O' rings and gaskets for the injectors.

Waqar was on the right track regarding the lean mixture cause the pre-detonation and he may have fixed it! Time will tell.

Waqar, once again I apologise for posting this.

Konrad