4.2 Rear Spring - Can't Get New One In :-(

[Bob E]

Hi,

When I was rotating the tyres on my 2004 RAV4 (petrol, auto, 5-door, 4WD), I discovered that the drivers side rear coil spring was broken at the top ... checked out the Haynes manual and the thread here at http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/130152-42-rear-springs-which-is-correct-way-up/page-2. I've detached the drop link and shock absorber, and removed the broken coil, but as the title says, I just can't get the new one in. It's a Sachs item sourced from Euro Car Spares, it does match the original, and I've got it the right way up (!) but I can't compress it small enough to wiggle it back into place, even after popping out the bump stop and pushing down as hard as I dare on the trailing arm. I do have a pair of spring compressors, but they seem to foul something wherever I put them.

Tomorrow, I'll remove the brake line on the trailing arm and try & get the handbrake cable out of the way, cos they're definitely making the job harder, but if anyone has any other suggestions, I'm listening!

Cheers,

Bob

[The Striding Man]

There is a video clip on youtube about changing the rear spring on a 4.2. Just type in "toyota rav4 spring" into the search bar and it should be the first one up.

I would post a link but I'm on my iPhone.

It looks a bit tricky getting the spring back in but hopefully this video clip might help you out.

[Bob E]

Thanks Arthur, though I did look at that before I started. I now suspect that because the video shows a 2WD version, he could drop the trailing arm lower than on a 4WD.

Cheers,

Bob

[The Striding Man]

Ahh, didn't spot that. No doubts that some of our spanner gurus will reply soon and be able to help you out Bob.

Cheers.

[bigend]

both wheels on same axle need to be raised or anti-roll bar prevents arm from dropping to lowest position.

Keith

[Bob E]

Thanks Keith, but I detached the drop link which connects the anti-roll bar to the trailing arm, so the arb is out of the equation, as is the shock absorber. Seems like it is the drive shaft that is limiting the downward movement ...

Cheers,

Bob

[Bob E]

OK, sorted

I removed the brake pipe from the trailing arm, and disconnected the handbrake cable clamp so that the cable could be moved out of the way, and that gave enough extra room to work with. I think there was some stiction in the upper & lower arm bushes too, because the trailing arm eventually dropped further, so that the shock absorber lower mount was a couple of inches below the bottom of the (disconnected) shock absorber.

It was still a lot of a fiddle to get the spring in, and I had to compress it very tight - even then the compressors (Draper 14173, though I can't remember when & why I got them) were in the way. Because I'd disconnected the brake line, I had to bleed the system afterwards, so on the plus side, that's one less job on the list.

Thanks to Keith & Arthur for your inputs and for the everyone else that read & thought "glad it's not me!!", thanks for empathising.

Next, to decide whether to do the other side myself, or sub-contract!

Cheers,

Bob

[anchorman]

Sorry Bob I missed this.

I would do the other side myself now the learning curve is done but pay attention to the match marks in that attached pdf or you will screw up all of the rear suspension geometry.

rear spring.pdf

[Bob E]

Hi Don, thanks for this info. I did have a look through the Toyota manuals before starting, and tho I saw this section, I thought it was more to do with total demolition of the suspension & drive train than simple replacement of a spring! In the end, I went the Haynes/youtube route, which was to disconnect the anti-roll bar drop link and the shock absorber, which allows the suspension to drop far enough to replace the spring (just!), while leaving all of the bits that impact the geometry untouched.

It leads to a question tho; is the doc you attached the "official" way to replace a rear spring?

Cheers,

Bob