Brakes

[Aqualung666]

The day I dread is rapidly approaching - MOT next Thursday. I know the tyres are all ok and I;ve just bought a new one so I'm not too worried about them. Brakes could well be my main problem. When I got the Rav about a year ao, it had passed its MOT and had an advisory note about the rear brake pads. I had meant to update them but of course didn;t and would now expect they wilol need changing. The discs look rusty, all four, but then I looked at a few other Ravs in the supermarket car park and they nearly all had rusty discs. Is this normal on the Rav 4, or am I to expect to have to change the discs as well? I'm guessing they are still the originals and the car has done 53,000, would these be a reasonable time for them to have reached the end?

[Big Kev]

53k would normally herald the time for disc changing IMHO, but do not confuse what looks like rust on the swept area of the disc with the material that the PADS themselves may have imparted on them. If that be the case, probably best changed, as they will likely distort anyway.

Also too forbye......to wait a year in between advisories.....? Bind moggles......

[Aqualung666]

Hmmm, sounds like an expensive job then Kev...four sets of discs and pads. Probably a good job it's booked in with a local reputable garage rather than Toyota!

[voyager t180]

If the brakes are working correctly,the discs shouldn't be rusty.

The pressure of the pads automatically cleans them.

FYI make sure the brakes aren't tested on the rollers,it can damage the 4wd system..most MOT testers should know this anyway.

[Big Kev]

If the brakes are working correctly,the discs shouldn't be rusty.

The pressure of the pads automatically cleans them.

FYI make sure the brakes aren't tested on the rollers,it can damage the 4wd system..most MOT testers should know this anyway.

There was a period, Paul, when Toyota became Lord Lucan and denied there was a severe problem of pad material shedding on to discs. This literally built up its own thickness and caused some degree of warping and pedal feedback.

I changed mine (pads) at my expense on a SR180 of some 15k miles vintage, with my dealer all passing Pontius's finger bowl to each other. I fitted Apec pads.....cleaned the discs up no end, and wheels became regularly coated in brake dust. With the previous Toyota pads, the wheels stayed spotless, whilst the discs looked "rusty"....they weren't.......

[CharlieFarlie]

Worth bearing in mind is the tendency for the discs to rust badly on the inside faces.. Wear also takes place more on the insides so if the outsides look knackered the insides will very likely be proper done !

[Parts-King]

Discs are a lump of cast iron, they do rust..............but should not be rusty on the swept surface

PM me for prices of genuine discs and pads, discounted of course, delivered to your door

Kingo

[Big Kev]

Good point, after ascertaining if rust or pad muck on swept area.........seems even more prevalent on cars with low annual mileage and/or parked up for long periods outside. Wife's 3 door discs really were falling apart on the inside faces, with no real similarity on outer faces.

[Guest]

As a useful aid, don't forget Mr T does a fixed price on discs and pads available via Mr T's website, gives you a price guide of what you could expect for costs and fitting, if you don't fancy doing it yourself.

Gus

[DjRav]

My 4.3 only made 30,000 miles before discs and pads needed changing on the front. Dreaded warp/judder feeling, quite common. If yours "feel" okay, then wear is the main issue, which can be seen with the naked eye!

Dave

NB slight change to driving style since new discs fitted- never sit there with foot held on the brakes. If you pull up at the lights stick the hand brake on instead. Pads held in contact with hot disc= disaster!

[voyager t180]

If the brakes are working correctly,the discs shouldn't be rusty.

The pressure of the pads automatically cleans them.

FYI make sure the brakes aren't tested on the rollers,it can damage the 4wd system..most MOT testers should know this anyway.

There was a period, Paul, when Toyota became Lord Lucan and denied there was a severe problem of pad material shedding on to discs. This literally built up its own thickness and caused some degree of warping and pedal feedback.

I changed mine (pads) at my expense on a SR180 of some 15k miles vintage, with my dealer all passing Pontius's finger bowl to each other. I fitted Apec pads.....cleaned the discs up no end, and wheels became regularly coated in brake dust. With the previous Toyota pads, the wheels stayed spotless, whilst the discs looked "rusty"....they weren't.......

Pontious Pilate?

You must have been a good catholic bairn Kev.

[Parts-King]

Pontious Pilate?

You must have been a good catholic bairn Kev.

That's only circum stantial evidence you have there

[CharlieFarlie]

My 4.3 only made 30,000 miles before discs and pads needed changing on the front. Dreaded warp/judder feeling, quite common. If yours "feel" okay, then wear is the main issue, which can be seen with the naked eye!

Dave

NB slight change to driving style since new discs fitted- never sit there with foot held on the brakes. If you pull up at the lights stick the hand brake on instead. Pads held in contact with hot disc= disaster!

I have had experience of not applying the handbrake on cars after a track session as they weld themselves to the discs.. But this is only on cars that have been well and truly hammered and braked to excess !! Never in all honesty thought the same applied to road use ??

I do take in that the handbrake on the Rav 4 is inside the rear disc drum assembly so a bit different...

[DjRav]

My 4.3 only made 30,000 miles before discs and pads needed changing on the front. Dreaded warp/judder feeling, quite common. If yours "feel" okay, then wear is the main issue, which can be seen with the naked eye!

Dave

NB slight change to driving style since new discs fitted- never sit there with foot held on the brakes. If you pull up at the lights stick the hand brake on instead. Pads held in contact with hot disc= disaster!

I have had experience of not applying the handbrake on cars after a track session as they weld themselves to the discs.. But this is only on cars that have been well and truly hammered and braked to excess !! Never in all honesty thought the same applied to road use ??

I do take in that the handbrake on the Rav 4 is inside the rear disc drum assembly so a bit different...

Not quite as drastic as your track sessions, but small deposits over a period of time add up to cause a "judder". May only be a contributory factor, but done a further 35,000 miles since the discs/pads changed with no issues.

Dave

[Cyker]

'tis a bit rude to the person behind to sit on the foot brake as well, esp. at night!

"If a pause becomes a wait, use the hand brake" as my instructor would say. Repeatedly...

As for the brakes, the Toyota blue coloured pads do seem to leave more surface rust; I think they may be ceramic-based pads, as they also produce no visible brake dust (The dust is there but it's translucent and doesn't stick so much to the wheels).

Since switching to EBC Greenstuff pads, my brake rotors have stayed very shiny (And it brakes a lot harder too!); The downside is my wheels are filthy with brake dust. Usually 2 weeks of normal use to go from clean to black!

Maybe I should have had my wheels powder-coated black instead of silver!

[Aqualung666]

Right, I think you've prepared me for what is looking like a costly experience. Of course they could find other things as well, but as far as I can tell/see brakes are the only thing which might need attention.

[anchorman]

'tis a bit rude to the person behind to sit on the foot brake as well, esp. at night!

I couldn't agree more .