More Central Locking Woes - Avensis Mk1

[Jemmo]

Got back from holiday Friday night, picked up car, no problems.

Drove back from Gatwick - rain, rain, and more rain.

Used car okay yestarday (Saturday), noticed central wasn't working so opened car via door lock.

Have had a look this morning and symptoms were;

• Both main and spare would set/unset immoboiliser/alarm but would not operate locking mechanism.
• Locking/unlocking via drivers door does not lock/unlock all doors.
• Locking/unlocking via drivers door does not disable the alarm/immobilser.
• Power door lock switch does not operate locking for all doors - but you can hear the relay/switch ticking.
• Interior light is okay.
• Dome fuse okay (checked with multimeter).
• Clock telling correct time.
• Tried reprogramming main key - now it will set the immobiliser/alarm but will not unset.

Any ideas anyone?

[Radiodanno]

The biggest clue you've given here is the Airport bit.

I've had this twice.

It's anecdotal, but a friend of mine (who's a radio engineer) said that it's very likely that it's something to do with ATC transmissions and your central locking receiver or even key.

There'll be a 'reprogramme sequence' on here somewhere on how to fix it.

Good luck!

[Jemmo]

That's an interesting point. But if that were the case I wouldn't have expected the locking to work down at Gatwick, but it did.
I did try and reprogram the main key but now it sets the immobiliser but will not unset. Before I tried to reprogram the key it would both set and unset.

I'll try again.

[Konrad C]

I would still put a new fuse for the Dome. It will be intact but the critical current does not get through.

The fuse degrades without actually blowing.

[Jemmo]

No joy with thr central locking, but I just popped out (to my mother's - about 5 miles away) amd on the way back I noticed the car was now and again running a bit lumpy. I filled up Superunleaded yesterday and was wondering if I had a bit of bad petrol, or water in the fuel. But when I pulled up I noticed that the lights did not seem so bright reflecting off the car in front. Anyways, I stopped the car, and started it back up to see how it would tick over from starting, and I just got really fast ticking like when the frost killed the Battery.

Something is not right.

[Jemmo]

Turned out to be a an alternator gone faulty and the Battery not holding charge. And I also needed a new belt.

£175 for the alternator. Is that a lot? I thought it was but the mech said it was to do with the amperage (generated presumably).

[TOYOTAJOHN]

a trick i learnt from this forum is to remove lower dash panel and you will see what looks like a large relay on the exreme right hand side remove this and pull off the multipin connector for a few seconds then reconnect and refit box ,a bit fiddly but this trick usually resets its memmory ,worked for me hope it does for you too

[Konrad C]

Turned out to be a an alternator gone faulty and the battery not holding charge. And I also needed a new belt.

£175 for the alternator. Is that a lot? I thought it was but the mech said it was to do with the amperage (generated presumably).

I would say that is slightly high but not unreasonable. A well known car parts supplier (Euro Car Parts) sells it £33 cheaper than you quoted. They have a branch in your area, but the mechanic probably has his own supplier.

The faults of the central locking not working initially, would not have led me to the Battery if the still car started.

Best thing to do is ask him to let you know in future, what is wrong and the cost of the parts before proceeding with the repair. Then you could go to supplier I mentioned and check and order part if cheaper. But remember, did he factor in labour?

Since the mechanic fixed the car, I would be happy.

Konrad