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Winter Washing.. The Power Of Ten........


CharlieFarlie
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Oh my word what is happening.

I have started a new job that has some "extreme hours" and when I look in this has happened.

Red.

For some time now posts have been moved to the dislike of the RAV owners posters. I certainly haven't been doing it although I am here keeping an eye on things most days. I know that some of the sections need close monitoring but by definition, you will get young lads in the Corolla and Yaris Clubs and by the nature of the group they will kick off and need monitoring.

You rarely if ever see a lad in a RAV as they are either outside of the price range or just too "un-cool". For that reason you don't need to worry about the management as much. Yes there are very occasional disagreements but it gets sorted between us and all is well. For that reason, many of the RAV owners don't want to be blinkered into sticking just to the express subject of RAVs but don't have the time or inclination to browse the other subjects. That includes me. Only if I have lots of time on my hands will I ever go and look elswhere. I have declared in the mod only section that if that isn't good enough then just say and I will bow out of being a mod. I cannot discuss this much further now but I have to say this being nailed to the rules thing is getting me down too and it isn't a case of lazyness it is just things that interest us here. Please just ease up and let it be. I will pm you with my phone number later and we can discuss this over the phone or entirely by pm.

RAV owners. Don't react any further please. I am as frustrated as you are but let me sort it out.

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Please don't put people off posting where they see fit. Posting is the very life blood of forums and this forum will be very much the poorer without contributions. Don't be bureaucratic about this. Don't throw the baby out with the bath water.

Nobody has said yet why a post or a link can't be copied into other forums.

Andy

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What I like about this forum is the diversity of it members and their cars, be a new members vehicle 20 hours or 20 years old, they're welcomed with the same warm reception. Technical and safety issues are advised professionally, less serious matters often become light hearted and humorous. I 'hop' on and off the forum all day long, I work from home and the often comical posts help the day go by. I have met a couple of members in person, throughly nice 'folk' with a genuine interest in their cars.

What the forum lacks is petty politics, and long may that continue.

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What I like about this forum is the diversity of it members and their cars, be a new members vehicle 20 hours or 20 years old, they're welcomed with the same warm reception. Technical and safety issues are advised professionally, less serious matters often become light hearted and humorous. I 'hop' on and off the forum all day long, I work from home and the often comical posts help the day go by. I have met a couple of members in person, throughly nice 'folk' with a genuine interest in their cars.

What the forum lacks is petty politics, and long may that continue.

Ditto the above.
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And Yet Charlies Guide to the 2AD engine and it's issues is pinned here in the RAV4 forum . . . Surely this applies to ALL 2.2 Diesel Toyotas built 2006-2009?

Moving posts appears to be a recent 'innovation'

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As a non rav owner am I allowed to ask a question here to get the post back on topic?! ;-)

Would use of a pressure washer strip/otherwise "damage" the wax layer and reduce it's effectiveness or longevity?

When washing my Auris or the wife's Yaris, I always use the pressure washer to put the foam on, but I have never used the full pressure to rinse off, only the hose and then a 2bm wash with another rinse from the hose.

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Can't answer the wax bit, but it is very important not to get too close with the power washer to any paintwork (or seals for that matter).

I have seen a few cars where the owners have asked me if I could apply a fresh coat of lacquer where they had tried to pressure wash bugs off! A simple car washing routine for them had turned into an expensive repair :( . Not everything lost though as I sell them some good bug and fly remover ;)

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Can't answer the wax bit, but it is very important not to get too close with the power washer to any paintwork (or seals for that matter).

I have seen a few cars where the owners have asked me if I could apply a fresh coat of lacquer where they had tried to pressure wash bugs off! A simple car washing routine for them had turned into an expensive repair :( . Not everything lost though as I sell them some good bug and fly remover ;)

Also important to be careful and not dwell on the tyre bead when washing wheels as it's possible to 'inject' water into the tyre.
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As a non rav owner am I allowed to ask a question here to get the post back on topic?! ;-)

Would use of a pressure washer strip/otherwise "damage" the wax layer and reduce it's effectiveness or longevity?

When washing my Auris or the wife's Yaris, I always use the pressure washer to put the foam on, but I have never used the full pressure to rinse off, only the hose and then a 2bm wash with another rinse from the hose.

A pressure washer if used correctly will nit damage paint or remove wax

Tips..

Do not turn the pressure up to the maximum. A good machine will flow lots of water (High flow rate) and it is this that determines how successful your washes will be. High pressure takes second place to flow rates. Worth thinking about if shopping for a new machine..

The mix of your foam is the biggest factor when we are talking about stripping wax... Foam should typically be mixed in the normal lance bottles with 1.5 to 2 inches MAX and a spot of shampoo. Turn the dial on the lance to just above minimum.. Covering your car with a thick blanket of foam will remove wax and it will just waste product.. It may impress the neighbours bit that's it ..

Dont point your lance directly at the paint. Or have the lance head set with to fine a spray. Best have a broad beam of spray and aim at say 45 degrees. This way you are taking advantage of the flow rate of the lance (No matter if high or low) and are defending against to high a pressure..

When I left the house today it was day light so I could examine just how good or bad the car was. Remember it was wet when I took the pictures so it could hide muck...

Honestly the car was spotless.... There were no water spotting marks not even on the windows......

Spotting is mostly caused by the foam or shampoo products. If we remove all of the product we get no spotting.. Not a problem when we wash and towel dry but this is about winter washing not spending time when its cold outside trying to make our cars look good...

You do not have to have a direct feed from the water supply to Hot/Warm wash your car.

All but the most basic washers will suck water from a barrel or say a clean dust bin.. Remember even a high flow rate machine uses not much water so fill a bin with a hose and have a bash...

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As a non rav owner am I allowed to ask a question here to get the post back on topic?! ;-)Would use of a pressure washer strip/otherwise "damage" the wax layer and reduce it's effectiveness or longevity?When washing my Auris or the wife's Yaris, I always use the pressure washer to put the foam on, but I have never used the full pressure to rinse off, only the hose and then a 2bm wash with another rinse from the hose.

A pressure washer if used correctly will nit damage paint or remove waxTips..Do not turn the pressure up to the maximum. A good machine will flow lots of water (High flow rate) and it is this that determines how successful your washes will be. High pressure takes second place to flow rates. Worth thinking about if shopping for a new machine..The mix of your foam is the biggest factor when we are talking about stripping wax... Foam should typically be mixed in the normal lance bottles with 1.5 to 2 inches MAX and a spot of shampoo. Turn the dial on the lance to just above minimum.. Covering your car with a thick blanket of foam will remove wax and it will just waste product.. It may impress the neighbours bit that's it ..Dont point your lance directly at the paint. Or have the lance head set with to fine a spray. Best have a broad beam of spray and aim at say 45 degrees. This way you are taking advantage of the flow rate of the lance (No matter if high or low) and are defending against to high a pressure..When I left the house today it was day light so I could examine just how good or bad the car was. Remember it was wet when I took the pictures so it could hide muck...Honestly the car was spotless.... There were no water spotting marks not even on the windows......Spotting is mostly caused by the foam or shampoo products. If we remove all of the product we get no spotting.. Not a problem when we wash and towel dry but this is about winter washing not spending time when its cold outside trying to make our cars look good...You do not have to have a direct feed from the water supply to Hot/Warm wash your car.All but the most basic washers will suck water from a barrel or say a clean dust bin.. Remember even a high flow rate machine uses not much water so fill a bin with a hose and have a bash...

Stonker, Charlie.......bucket of warm water........trial this I will.

To O.P. Colin...........do not let Charlie see this bit.......I use one of these Karcher Racer Spinning Patio Cleaning attachments to first of all clean the alloys, held up close as you like as will not damage except if they are flakers. Then, from no closer than about 15", I sometimes use it to rinse the foam, always remembering to KEEP MY DISTANCE with it. Right, Charlie.......get off the floor......honest min.......it gives an incredibly soft mist to rinse with.......lol.

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If we remove all of the product we get no spotting..

Except if you are washing the vehicle in a hard water area.

I sometimes use it to rinse the foam, always remembering to KEEP MY DISTANCE with it. Right, Charlie.......get off the floor......honest min.......it gives an incredibly soft mist to rinse with.......lol.

Much as it pains me big boy, I have to agree with you on this :P ;).

It is a nice fine rinsing mist. :thumbsup: I usually find the "back pressure" from the lance helps keep the rotary head thingy well away from the bodywork anyway. :thumbsup:

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Speeeeeeeeeeechless I am ...................................

I saw an ex neighbour scrubbing his brand new black Suzuki 4WD with a Karcher T racer.. Up and down the doors he went.. Over the bonnet whistling and as happy as a sand boy he went.. Over the roof singing a happy tune...... Well as happy as a Suzuki owner could be...

Meanwhile I was over the road cringing ! I did consider telling him what he was doing but thought the better of it.....

You should have seen that car a few months later.. Even Jim would not have fixed it...

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Aye....ok then......16" minimum away from paint......lol.

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I find those T-Racers totally brilliant on the wheels. I used them about 2-3" from the wheels, but ... This is before doing a refurb to try and find dodgy paintwork ;)

Once repainted, keep 12" away :)

post-29315-0-70041700-1384285024_thumb.j

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Speeeeeeeeeeechless I am ...................................

I saw an ex neighbour scrubbing his brand new black Suzuki 4WD with a Karcher T racer.. Up and down the doors he went.. Over the bonnet whistling and as happy as a sand boy he went.. Over the roof singing a happy tune...... Well as happy as a Suzuki owner could be...

Meanwhile I was over the road cringing ! I did consider telling him what he was doing but thought the better of it.....

More cringeworthy than that was the sight of my mrs scrubbing bird poo of the bonnet of our then nearly new Rav with a green pad..luckily managed to stop her before she went into full cleaning mode.

Unbeleivable but sadly true.

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Stop pussyfooting around and get the things 'bottomed' ! I had an Uncle wash a brand new orange Volvo in Vim (the scouring powder)…..He only did it the once. Both expired now R.I.P.

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Thank you for the tips, I wouldn't have ever dreamt of using the t-racer to wash a car!

I went a bit over the top with a pressure washer on my last car, on the arches and ended up having to reseal them.

Anyway, on the subject of pressure washers, I am in the market for a new one after my trusty 12 year old Karcher packed in, that didn't have any fancy pressure dials or anything, just on or off.

I'm going to stick with Karcher as I have a lot of the attachments, silly money isn't an option, I was thinking either the k2 series or k4 at most. I sadly missed out on a k5 package at just over £200 on eBay the other day, that is my budget at most.

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No WASH with Racer, Colin...........RINSE ONLY AFTER FOAM LANCE APPLICATION. Then handwash in yer 2B mode, rinsed with hose only pressure which gives less water spots.

Any of the new era of Water Cooled Karcher will do ye, but I was given nod on here, and for £100.00 EXTRA picked up a Commercial HD machine, but respect to your budget

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Maybe I could use the sand blaster attachment for the lower sills as they do get quite dirty on a black car...

</joke>

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I got the K3.555 setup with patio cleaner fitting (like T-racer but flexible fitting on the end instead of fixed. Good value from Costco at the time and is WaterCooled as per Kevs suggestion (the K2 is air cooled I think?).

I think the Commercial machines use different attachments? Is there an adapter available to allow conversion?

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Adapter £15.00 to convert from relatively clumsy and limited range of HD accessories to what is called domestic, David.

Actual motors differ greatly on the HD range.......built in main from brass I think, both for wear and heat dissipation.

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Well, for those that are interested, I'm now the proud owner of a Karcher K4 eco jobby courtesy of flea bay. Fingers crossed for a speedy delivery, the cars haven't been washed for 3 weeks and with one being black and the other white that is a very long time!

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Winter Hint...........when you have finished washing any car, turn off water and remove hose from tap. Switch on pressure washer until hose or hose cartridge has purged all water in it. DO NOT RUN WASHER IN THIS MODE for any longer than necessary, especially in the case of water cooled wans, for what should be obvious reasons......

This will save you having a frozen useless hose, the downside of which is you must bleed all air out of it on next use by running water through WITH WATER PRESSURE ONLY........PRESSURE OFF. I am reliably informed the pumps do not like being airlocked.

This I would welcome being copied anywhere on TOC by anyone who knows how to do it.

Similarly, should anyone have reason to think I have been misinformed (i.e.talking mince......), please inform.

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I've never drained mine but to bleed it, attach the supply and turn on the water and it will shoot straight through. Leave that until the air is out of the supply hose. Then attach the lance (you will have to turn the supply off as it runs through freely) and then switch it back on with the trigger pulled. It will run through at mains pressure.

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Winter Hint...........when you have finished washing any car, turn off water and remove hose from tap. Switch on pressure washer until hose or hose cartridge has purged all water in it. DO NOT RUN WASHER IN THIS MODE for any longer than necessary, especially in the case of water cooled wans, for what should be obvious reasons......

This will save you having a frozen useless hose, the downside of which is you must bleed all air out of it on next use by running water through WITH WATER PRESSURE ONLY........PRESSURE OFF. I am reliably informed the pumps do not like being airlocked.

This I would welcome being copied anywhere on TOC by anyone who knows how to do it.

Similarly, should anyone have reason to think I have been misinformed (i.e.talking mince......), please inform.

Showing off now but when plumbing in the hot and cold taps a couple of big radiators were added in the garage...

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