2007 T180 Loses Power And Vsc+Trc+Malfunction

[janeko]

I am driving 2007 Avensis Estate T180 D-Cat.

Over last two days (and this happened twice) it lost all (! I mean as if the accelerator was disconnected) power when cold and either starting from standstill or running on v low/idle rpm.

The malfunction (engine like symbol) + VSC + TRC lights came on.

I checked the codes manually (by wiring up pins 4 and 13 of OBDII) and ABS+VSC flash: 4 - 1 - 4 - 5 - 5 - 5 and then repeat.

I assume this means codes 41, 45 & 55? The first one points to low + voltage, the second one to Yew sensor issue the 3rd one I can't find.

Since the fault occurred only on v low/idle rpm could it be all down to faulty Battery not providing enough + voltage???

many thanks in advance!

[Mistermena]

When was the EGR valve last cleaned? Also the fuel filter? MAF prob needs a clean! Bet it's the EGR valve all sooted up! Engine can't breath...

[janeko]

Thanks.

In fact it had a complete engine rebuild about a year ago, curtesy of T due to the head gasket issue re-occuring.

I would assume they cleaned the EGR valve on the occasion...?

It had a full+ service in the summer, I think fuel filter is part of that.

I have never cleaned MAF and have no clue how to go about that?

should I just book it into MrT or try something else before?

[Mistermena]

You would have had a new EGR valve with the new engine I would have thought! Along with a new D-CAT and 5th injector!

I would clean the EGR 1st. Search on the forum on the guides on how to do! Very easy job if your hand with a spanner!

The MAF is even easier to do with some electrical contact spray or CRC spray bought from eBay! It sites in the pipe between the air filter and turbo! Again... Take a search on here for some posts!

It depends what service you had! If it was done at the dealer then you would have it listed! I'd change it anyway as it tends to solve lots of issues!... Again! There are guides on the forum!...

[Mistermena]

Put some BG244 in the tank with some Shell V-Power diesel! Hope you're not running the car on supermarket juice! And that you are using a C2 spec oil of 0w-30 that is the preferred grade for the T-180! You can also use a 5w-30 like Mobil 1 ESP.

[janeko]

Thanks again.

Come to think about it, I used to put in the usual BP diesel and recently started putting their ultimate one. 1 month later and I have problems...coincidence?

Also, should I not worry about the diagnostic codes at all which seem to point to different issues than the EGR valve?

thanks!

[Mistermena]

I would clean the EGR valve and change the fuel/air filter and MAF! Get the car going and do an "Italian tune up" once the engine reaches normal opp temp! :)

[Druid Boy]

I can't help with the fault codes but had a similar experience with my car in the cold. There was a fault for 'injector open circuit' but nothing found by the dealer. I changed the fuel filter and the problem seems to have been resolved. Fuel filter is not part of every major service - only at 40k miles if memory serves. I think it was a combination of an old fuel filter and possibly the SCV as the symptoms seem to be similar for SCV trouble. SCVs are expensive, hence me changing the fuel filter first

[boboo]

if car starts Battery is providing enough cold cranking amps and this is the heavy test for a Battery so rule out Battery and alternator not providing enough voltage as alternator output from a running engine is around 14.4 and more than the battery rest voltage anyway.

id get a plug in scanner to recheck the codes correctly to verify you are looking in the right direction

I don't have a lot of experience on Toyota but fords do a similar thing when their smart charge fails and lets alternator give too much voltage and the dash lights up like a Christmas tree.

[janeko]

I checked and the fuel filter was changed in Aug.

I am booked in tomorrow in a local garage to have diagnostic done properly and clean the ERG valve once there. Will report back.

[janeko]

Battery replaced, EGR cleaned.

Drove beautifully on motorway, back in city traffic after several stops the issue came back, lost all power.

Reports now P0093 = major fuel leak. I do not think there is one but now with T for them to do diagnostics.

Any ideas???

[Mistermena]

Check that the ful cap is on correctly and has a good seal! This can cause fault code

[janeko]

After 1h of diagnostics T concluded that it is a faulty fuel pressure control valve. Does this sound familiar at all?

I might start a new thread as this no longer really sits here as the situation evolves...

the part itself is about 300 pounds + labour. They are not confident though that this is the only problem... I wonder how long this will last?

[Druid Boy]

If they are not confident that it is the only fault then it may be worth getting them to explain what their next move will be. You do not want to be paying them to learn how to fix your car.

Maybe if they replace the valve and the problems persists you could pay the trade cost price of the valve and they could absorb the labour cost. After all, you don't want to be rewarding failure.

Have a chat with them, get them to explain what would happen if the valve wasn't the problem and make a decision from there.

It probably is the valve - there's a bunch of posts on here about the Suction Control Valve (SCV). They aren't cheap to fix.

[JAPCAR]

It probably is the valve - there's a bunch of posts on here about the Suction Control Valve (SCV). They aren't cheap to fix.

Do you thing Suction Control Valve (SCV)= fuel presure control valve. First one is on the HP pump but second one isn't it on the rail?