Abysmal Mpg, What Can Be Done?

[astoy]

Hi,

I've just bought a 2007 2.2L d4-d Avensis, making the mistake of thinking its mpg would be something like the advertised figures.

I've just done the first tank, computer says 40.3mpg: which is awful; rim to rim says it's 35.4.

I'm speechless.

I've had the car about 3 weeks and I can't believe a diesel could have been made in 2007 that achieves 35mpg.

To rule out the obvious: Driving styles, I am driving in a similar fashion to my R-Reg Audi A4 1.9TDi, and that would get about 50mpg.

Air Filter: looks barely used, service history says 5 months old, I bought a new one and decided not to replace it after looking at the other.

Fuel Filter: Not changed since purchase, service history says 5 months.

Injectors: Injector Cleaner run through as soon as I got the car.

Does anyone else get 35mpg from an Avensis?

Can anyone suggest anything I need to do to get something almost acceptable out of this car?

What about retuning?

Has anyone remapped to get better MPG?

I really need to get this sorted soon.

Thanks,

-Andy.

[Heidfirst]

which 2.2 (150 or 177bhp)?

manual or auto transmission?

Your mpg will drop during the Winter especially on short journeys (these diesels are known for taking time to reach normal operational temp) but to give you an idea my 2007 2.2 (150bhp) manual Tourer would return on average ~42mpg in Winter & 45mpg in Summer in mixed motoring. Long motorway runs would see middle 50s.

You can't remap, nobody has broken Denso's encryption but you can get a piggyback box (this should be notified to your insurer & may affect your premium).

[astoy]

Thanks for the info.

Do the boxes give an improved MPG (when driven sensibly?)

Are there any other filter changes/ mechanical checks I should do to make sure something isn't wrong with the car that is dragging the MPG right down?

Thanks.

Andy.

[Heidfirst]

The boxes can give an improved mpg depending upon the map & your driving style. However, the good ones (e.g. Lindop's via PartsKing on the forum) cost several hundreds of pounds which if you assume £400 cost & a 10% fuel saving requires ~3000 litres of fuel use before it pays for itself (& that's ignoring any insurance premium uplift).

If you have the T180 (177bhp) or the rare in the UK 2.2 (150bhp) D-CAT or 2.0 D-CAT these have a fifth injector for DPF regeneration & will get noticeably worse mpg than the regular 2.0 & 2.2 D4Ds.

& don't use supermarket fuel.

[astoy]

Shame for me to admit, but I don't know specifically which engine I have.

It's D-4D, 2.2L, Tourer (Estate), it doesn't have a DPF additive tank in the boot (by the spare wheel), 2007.

I'll have a look through the documentation when I get home.

10% better MPG = 39MPG, still a case of not acceptable, I just hope the next few tanks as I grow used to driving the car and get a few more longer journeys in will make a difference to this. 24,000miles seems to be the break even on a £400 box, if a 10% increase in MPG is achieved.

With DPF being standard on cars after 2009, I think this is the very last diesel I buy.

[Heidfirst]

afaik no Avensis has a DPF additive tank?

The T27 Avensis 1.8 petrol is a very good car, gets close to diesel mileage & for many people doing ~12,000 per year or less & especially if they intend to keep it a long time (e.g. 7 years +) is probably a better bet than a diesel. & imo TR spec. is probably the best vfm spec.

I prefer the extra grunt of the 2.2 D4D & I admit to being blinded/lured by the bling of the T-Spirit :P (I did get a stonking deal on it though) but I'm aware of the downsides.

[astoy]

I may have been misinformed here then (not the first time) but a friend told me he had a DPF on a more recent avensis and that the additive tank filler cap was in the section of boot with the spare.

I'll be pretty annoyed with him if he's given me duff info and this model does have a DPF.

Is there an easy check to see if I have a DPF?

Seen as my last car was 16 year old Audi Diesel, I am pretty new to the concept of a DPF, but from what I've read, I don't want one.

-AS

[Heidfirst]

does your car say T180 or D-CAT anywhere externally or if you open the bonnet it should be in green on the engine cover?

If so it has the 5th injector & a DPF.

On the T25 D4Ds of that age the T180/D-CATs are the only ones that I know of that have a DPF but I don't claim to be omniscient

Btw you also should at least acquaint yourself with the head gasket issue that can occur on some of these D4Ds (see http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/132277-basic-faqs-by-diesel-drivers-read-this/).

You are going to find any modern common rail turbo-diesel different from a 15 year old diesel.

[Awebb180]

What type of driving are you doing? Short 5-6mile through town or long journeys?

Alex

[benjyboy]

I have a 2007 2.2d4d tourer. Have done 95k. The car does 42mpg on non motorway journeys. 50ish on the motorway. I put a bottle of redex diesel additive in at every other tankful. It seems to stop the lights appearing trc, eng management etc. Tesco sells it periodically for £2. The car needs a good thrashing occasionally to clear the cobwebs. Good luck.

[astoy]

Heidfirst:

I've not noticed the "D-Cat" anywhere, so I hope it isn't. I'll keep an eye out for that.

Re: omnipresent: Close enough by my reckoning!

Alex:

it has been a 50:50 split of miles like that and motorway miles. I do live in quite a hilly area, so that also gives it quite a kicking.

Ben:

Thanks for the tip. I did use Unipart's injector cleaner as soon as I got the car, I guess it wouldn't hurt to put in on a regular basis.

I bought the car in a private sale, but I don't know how the previous owner used to drive, he may have been the "empty tank" kind of driver, may have constantly pulled the sludge at the bottom of the tank through the fuel filter. So I guess even though it probably was changed 4-5 months ago, I'm going to change the fuel filter (and may as well do the oil change and the air filter change whilst at it).

Thanks for the tips guys, The fact you are getting better figures than me (I assume) without using any of the magic boxes means I'm hopeful I can make a good economy saving on MPG too.

All the best,

-Andy

[t-spiritpete]

After you have done your service you may also want to clean out the EGR valve and manifold pipe, there is plenty of info on the forum including pictures of how to do it. Whilst all is being done disconnect the Battery Negative lead and this will reset the ECU and you will have a fresh start to your driving style, it's a bit more expensive but BG244 or Forte diesel additive is far better than the cheap stuff and you can pour a little into the fuel filter before you fit it then put the rest in the tank :-)

Regards Pete

[Druid Boy]

I presume that your tyres are a good brand and the pressures are correct.

[astoy]

good brand, though I'm taking them up to 40psi as they were mid twenties when checked.

There's now a new concern: oil consumption is high.

I'm hoping this is a minor issue, any pointers on this?

Could both of these be a EGR valve?

Thanks,

Andy

[Awebb180]

How high are we talking? 1l per 1000 mile or 1l per 5k?

Those tyre pressure being that low won't have helped

alex

[Heidfirst]

iirc the tyre pressures on a T25 2.2 are something like 35psi & up depending on load.

As for the oil consumption read the sticky at http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/132277-basic-faqs-by-diesel-drivers-read-this/

especially the bit about EGR & head gaskets. hopefully it isn't that but you should be aware.

[astoy]

I'm not too sure how much oil was in to start with, but pretty sure it didn't set off alarm bells when I checked it whilst buying.

This was the first top up I did and I was taken aback by how soon I needed to top up. I've driven about 700 miles.

I realised after writing the last post that it shouldn't be the EGR valve directly causing the oil consumption. I'm quite nervous that it may be the head gasket or piston rings.

I did the standard checks on head gasket when buying the car, there was no oil in the water, no water in the oil, no pressure increase on the flexible hoses when the engine started, there's no notable smoke (black or white).

Similarly, there's no oil under the car when its been parked for a while.

I'm going to just have to do an oil change and watch the level, unless anyone can suggest other checks I should do.

Thanks for the input so far.

Andy.

[Heidfirst]

if you are using the Toyota pink coolant then one of the giveaways for the hg problem is white spotting around the coolant reservoir from when expelled coolant dries.

[astoy]

A limit of 7years old and 111846miles?

No mention of original owners?

Just fsh?

I may remove this thread. ........

Thanks for pointers.

Andy.

[Awebb180]

A limit of 7years old and 111846miles?

No mention of original owners?

Just fsh?

I may remove this thread. ........

Thanks for pointers.

Andy.

as long as the book is stamped up and sometimes invoices to prove if its not main dealer you should be ok. Take it to the dealer and get them to look at it. if it goes through and your going to keep the car it might be worth getting the clutch do as a parts only price whilst the box is out.

The dealer will top up the levels and you will have to do 500/1000 miles then they will recheck and give you the verdict.

No need to delete this post - just let us know the outcome

Alex

[astoy]

Thanks for the advice.

If one dealer refuses to honor the warrenty is it worth trying another?

Cheers,

Andy.

[Heidfirst]

yes.

Did you buy your car from a private individual or a business as if it does prove to be the hg that could be another avenue?

[astoy]

Private Sale;

6 1/2 years old and 106k on clock.

FSH from large garage, though it has been serviced by an engineering company with its own fleet for the first 60k.

Minor deviations from service plan, e.g 10.5k for the 10k service, etc.

All SH books stamped & dated. there's a few receipts, mat'ls bought and extra print outs.

-Andy.

[astoy]

Correction: stamp and receipt for last 5 annual services except for the 2012 one which has no invoice.

Whilst a fleet vehicle it was maintained by a large independent garage and has stamps and job history list from company that owned it.

I'm not 100% sure what the highlighted paragraph of the warrenty bulletin means: does it mean a sooty egr valve invalidates the warrenty or that its accepted as evidence of the problem?

Cheers everyone.

Andy.

[JAPCAR]

After you have done your service you may also want to clean out the EGR valve and manifold pipe, there is plenty of info on the forum including pictures of how to do it.

Yes, there is plenty of info how to clean EGR but could you give a link for manifold cleaning if you know one...