Gen 3 Prius - Locking Wheel Nuts

[AEB-UK]

Just tried to remove the wheels so I can put winter rubber on my new (1 month old) Prius.

However, the socket for the locking wheel nuts sticks out so far from the wheel that the supplied wheel brace is too loose (it wobbles) and the socket slips from the nut.

This is beginning to damage the socket pattern.

I'm going back to my dealer when they respond so they can take the locking nuts off for me.

I think the shaped flange inside the socket is too shallow to afford enough grip or support.

Anyone else have this problem?

If so, is there a solution? :help2:

[Sagitar]

I have never had any problems with mine and this is the fifth year that I have changed the wheels for the winter.

I must admit however that I have never used the supplied wheel nut spanner. I have a decent (though pretty ancient) socket set including an extending breaker bar, a ratchet socket handle and a good quality torque spanner. They certainly do make life a bit easier.

The wheel nut spanner supplied is not long enough to get comfortable leverage and the angle at which the "handle" is set makes it awkward to apply pressure along the axis of the stud with one hand while applying leverage with the other.

[kithmo]

I've use the supplied spanner on the Gen 3 and The Plus when I rotated the tyres, with no problem. Is the Key a good fit on the Locking nut ?

[steverally]

I had this problem on prius. Went to local tyre garage and they used a 'spider' brace to remove them as pressure could be applied perpendicular to wheel nuts. After it was removed and anytime now when I remove the wheel nuts I only do the locking ones up firmly rather than crank them up tight like the other wheel nuts,

[AEB-UK]

"Is the Key a good fit on the Locking nut ?"

Yes, but the locking nut is on so tight it's not loosening and the supplied brace is causing the locking socket to slip/skew from the nut, and this is beginning to damage the lock pattern.

"pressure could be applied perpendicular to wheel nuts" - this is exactly what is requred, but the supplied tool doesn't allow for this when the locking nut is on so tight.

"I only do the locking ones up firmly rather than crank them up tight like the other wheel nuts," - excellent tip, thanks.

I'm going to take the car back to the dealer I bought it from before Christmas and get them to remove the locking nuts so that if the socket is damaged in the process they can replace them.

[steverally]

Hope you get it sorted. Yes, key was a good fit but not exceptional tight, the angled brace supplied though tends to twist it off causing the problem your experiencing, but I think that's a problem with all cars. By the way have you tried removing the ordinary wheel nuts? I always go around the car after its been in and check I can undo them, as if they've been done up with an air gun they sometimes can be impossible to remove unless you have access to an brace with an extension bar. I bought one once from Aldi, its normal spanner like the one supplied but the handle is telescopic and extends, doesn't half make it easier..it lives in the boot. Another tip put a small blob of 'copper grease' on each stud before refitting the nuts.

Steve

[AEB-UK]

Hi Steve,

Yes, it's the extention caused by the locknut socket which means it twists, and is damaging the security "thread".

The other wheel nuts can be loosened with the supplied brace.

A longer handle would allow for more leverage, but does it eliminate the twisting effect on the locking nut + socket?

[steverally]

I don't think the extension bar does eliminates twisting but it certainly helps as you don't have to apply as much pressure to undo the wheel nuts, you can use the other hand to keep applying the perpendicular force onto the locking wheel nut. That's only my impression, as since I had the locking nuts removed I've been very cautious in tightening them up.

[kithmo]

I find that putting the spanner at the 10 o'clock position and pressing down on the end and holding up on the bend keeps it straight enough to apply plenty of torque. But if the nuts have been over tightened, as you suspect, then certainly a spider or a knuckle bar is required. Make sure you use a six faced socket though, the 12 point faceted ones will rip the corners off the key nut.

[Opifex]

My first thought was a spider with hex sockets.

I have one that normally lives in the garage but after reading this thread I'm going to start carrying it in the boot. Thanks!

[AEB-UK]

Okay, took the car to the dealer today. The locking nuts may have been put on a little tighter than normal, but this didn't prevent the technician undoing them quite easily with the supplied lock nut socket and short brace.

I now have to confess to embarassment for removing wheel nuts incorrectly. For many (many!) years I have pressed down on the wheel brace by hand or using my foot, to loosen the nut.

The easier method is to lift up the wheel brace it seems. I'm sure most of you will say this is obvious, but I'm chagrined to say it didn't occur to me - doh! Lesson learned.

The techie also suggested buying an extension bar, but if this was really necessary then Toyota should supply one.

[wass]

I once destroyed the locking nut adapter socket completely whilst tightening it. I am guessing that at some time or another somebody had used a pneumatic impact wrench on it. This would have been while the car was in the care of a "professional"service fitter or tyre fitter. I ordered a replacement adaptor and waited 3 days for its arrival. To prevent the re-occurrence of such an incident, I used the adaptor to remove all of the security nuts and replaced them with standard wheel nuts. This was about 2 years ago and still nobody has stolen my wheels.

Our Lexus had the same type of nuts fitted to it too. They were replaced with standard nuts too. No more issues.

[kithmo]

Okay, ................

The easier method is to lift up the wheel brace it seems. I'm sure most of you will say this is obvious, but I'm chagrined to say it didn't occur to me - doh! Lesson learned.

.

As said in my last post